The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (126 page)
Read The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook Online
Authors: The Editors at America's Test Kitchen
Tags: #Cooking
SERVES 4
Do not thaw the peas before cooking. Regular frozen peas can be used in place of baby peas; increase the cooking time in step 2 by 1 to 2 minutes. Add the lemon juice right before serving; otherwise, the peas will turn brown.
2 | teaspoons olive oil |
1 | small shallot, minced |
1 | garlic clove, minced |
3 | cups frozen baby peas |
¹⁄ | cup low-sodium chicken broth |
¹⁄ | teaspoon sugar |
¹⁄ | cup minced fresh mint |
1 | tablespoon unsalted butter |
2 | teaspoons lemon juice |
Salt and pepper |
1.
Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add shallot and cook, stirring frequently, until softened, about 2 minutes. Add garlic and cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant, about 30 seconds.
2.
Stir in peas, broth, and sugar. Cover and cook until peas are bright green and just heated through, 3 to 5 minutes. Add mint and butter and toss to combine. Off heat, stir in lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve immediately.
Substitute 1 small leek, white and light green parts only, halved lengthwise, cut into ¹⁄
4
-inch pieces, and washed thoroughly, for shallot and increase cooking time in step 1 to 3 to 5 minutes (leek should be softened). Substitute heavy cream for broth, 2 tablespoons minced tarragon for mint, and white wine vinegar for lemon juice.
Substitute 6 ounces trimmed and quartered cremini mushrooms for shallot, and increase cooking time in step 1 to 3 to 5 minutes (mushrooms should be light golden brown). Substitute 2 tablespoons minced fresh thyme for mint.
Substitute 3 ounces deli ham, cut into ¹⁄
4
-inch cubes (about ¹⁄
2
cup), for shallot and decrease cooking time in step 1 to 1 minute. Substitute 2 tablespoons minced fresh chives for mint.
Substitute ¹⁄
2
small fennel bulb, fronds minced, stalks discarded, bulb halved, cored, and cut into ¹⁄
4
-inch pieces, for shallot and increase cooking time in step 1 to 3 to 5 minutes (fennel should be softened). Substitute 2 tablespoons minced fennel fronds for mint.
Substitute 2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger for shallot and decrease cooking time in step 1 to 1 minute. Substitute ¹⁄
4
cup coconut milk for broth, ¹⁄
4
cup minced cilantro for mint, and 2 teaspoons lime juice for lemon.
FROZEN PEAS, PLEASE
We’ve always been big fans of frozen peas. Individually frozen right after being shucked from the pod, they are often sweeter and fresher-tasting than the shuck-’em-yourself “fresh” peas that may have spent days in storage. We’ve seen two varieties in the freezer aisle: regular frozen peas and bags labeled “petite peas” (or sometimes “petit pois” or “baby sweet peas”). To see if there is a difference, we tasted each type with butter. Tasters unanimously favored the smaller peas for their sweeter flavor and creamier texture. Regular peas were by no means unacceptable but had tougher skins and mealier interiors. Since both varieties are available for the same price, we’re going with the petite peas from now on.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
Greasy potatoes, burnt crusts, and uneven cooking were just three of the problems we had to solve to resurrect this classic method of roasting spuds on the stovetop. We wanted to find a way to make skillet-roasted potatoes that were as good as oven-roasted. This would be our go-to recipe when we craved roasted potatoes but there was no room in the oven for the conventional kind. The key turned out to be choosing the right potatoes and cutting them uniformly: red potatoes, halved or quartered depending on their size, offered a great crust and a moist interior. The winning cooking technique for our stovetop-roasted potatoes was to first brown the potatoes over high heat, then cover them and finish the cooking over low heat, which allowed the insides to cook through while the outsides stayed crisp.
SERVES 3 TO 4
Small and medium potatoes will both work in this recipe. Small potatoes (1¹⁄
2
to 2 inches in diameter) should be cut in half; medium potatoes (2 to 3 inches in diameter) should be cut into quarters to make ³⁄
4
- to 1-inch chunks. Large potatoes should not be used because the cut pieces will be uneven and won’t cook at the same rate. For even cooking and proper browning, the potatoes must be cooked in a single layer and should not be crowded in the pan. A nonstick skillet simplifies cleanup but is not essential.
1¹⁄ | pounds small red potatoes |
2 | tablespoons olive oil |
¹⁄ | teaspoon salt |
¹⁄ | teaspoon pepper |
1.
Rinse potatoes in cold water and drain well; spread on clean kitchen towel and thoroughly pat dry.
2.
Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add potatoes, cut side down, in single layer and cook, without stirring, until golden brown (oil should sizzle but not smoke), 5 to 7 minutes. Using tongs, turn potatoes skin side down if using halved small potatoes or second cut side down if using quartered medium potatoes. Cook, without stirring, until deep golden brown, 5 to 6 minutes longer. Stir potatoes, then redistribute in single layer. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and cook until potatoes are tender (paring knife can be inserted into potatoes with no resistance), 6 to 9 minutes.
3.
When potatoes are tender, sprinkle with salt and pepper and toss or stir gently to combine; serve immediately.
Combine 3 small minced garlic cloves and 2 teaspoons minced fresh rosemary in small bowl. After seasoning potatoes with salt and pepper in step 3, clear center of skillet and add garlic and rosemary mixture. Cook over medium-low heat, mashing with heatproof spatula, until fragrant, about 45 seconds, then stir mixture into potatoes.
Stir 1 teaspoon chili powder, 1 teaspoon sweet paprika, ¹⁄
2
teaspoon ground cumin, and ¹⁄
4
teaspoon cayenne together in small bowl. Substitute chili mixture for pepper, adding to the pan in step 3 and cooking until spices are fragrant, about 30 seconds.
CHOOSE THE RIGHT POTATO
Although all vegetables vary by size and
freshness, most markets carry only a single variety. Broccoli is broccoli,
carrots are carrots. With potatoes, this is not the case. Make french fries
with red potatoes and the fries will be greasy and heavy. Use russets in
salad or corn chowder and they will fall apart in a soggy mess. We find that
potato varieties can be divided into three major categories based on
texture:
DRY, FLOURY POTATOES
(Russet, Russet Burbank, Idaho):
Also known as “baking”
potatoes, this group contains more total starch (20 percent to 22 percent)
and amylose than other categories, giving these varieties a dry, mealy
texture. These potatoes are the best choice when baking and frying. They are
also great potatoes for mashing, because they can drink up butter and cream.
They are good when you want to thicken a stew or soup but not if you want
distinct chunks of potatoes.
IN-BETWEEN POTATOES
(Yukon Gold, Yellow Finn, Purple Peruvian, Kennebec,
Katahdin):
These potatoes contain less total starch (18
percent to 20 percent) and amylose than dry, floury potatoes but more total
starch and amylose than firm, waxy potatoes. Although they are “in-between”
potatoes, their texture is more mealy than firm, putting them closer to dry,
floury potatoes. They can be mashed or baked and they can be used in salads
and soups but won’t be quite as firm as waxy potatoes.
FIRM, WAXY POTATOES
(Red Bliss, French Fingerling, Red Creamer, White Rose):
Also known as “boiling” potatoes, these potatoes contain a relatively low
amount of total starch (16 percent to 18 percent) and very little
amylose, which means they have a firm, smooth, waxy texture. Freshly dug
potatoes, which are often called “new” potatoes, fall into this group. These
potatoes are perfect when you want the potatoes to hold their shape, as with
potato salad; they’re also a good choice when roasting or boiling.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
Bold flavors and a rustic, chunky texture make smashed potatoes a satisfying side dish that pairs well with a range of entrées. We were after a good contrast of textures, with chunks of potato bound by a rich, creamy puree. Low-starch, high-moisture red potatoes were the best choice for smashing since their compact structure held up well under pressure, maintaining its integrity, and their red skins provided nice contrasting color. For the best chunky texture, we smashed the potatoes, which we had cooked whole in salted water with a bay leaf, with a rubber spatula or back of a wooden spoon. Giving the potatoes a few minutes to dry ensured the skins weren’t too slippery, making the job even easier. A combination of cream cheese, melted butter, and a little reserved potato cooking water gave our potatoes a unified creamy consistency.
SERVES 4 TO 6
White potatoes can be used instead of red, but the dish won’t be as colorful. We prefer to use small potatoes, 2 inches in diameter, in this recipe. Try to get potatoes of equal size; if that’s not possible, test the larger potatoes for doneness. If only larger potatoes are available, increase the cooking time by about 10 minutes.
2 | pounds small red potatoes |
Salt and pepper | |
1 | bay leaf |
4 | ounces cream cheese, room temperature |
4 | tablespoons unsalted butter, melted |
3 | tablespoons chopped fresh chives (optional) |
1.
Place potatoes in large saucepan and cover with 1 inch cold water. Add 1 teaspoon salt and bay leaf. Bring to boil over high heat, then reduce heat to medium-low and simmer gently until paring knife can be inserted into potatoes with no resistance, 35 to 45 minutes. Reserve ¹⁄
2
cup cooking water, then drain potatoes. Return potatoes to pot, discard bay leaf, and let potatoes sit in pot, uncovered, until surfaces are dry, about 5 minutes.
2.
While potatoes dry, whisk softened cream cheese and melted butter in medium bowl until smooth and fully incorporated. Add ¹⁄
4
cup of reserved cooking water, ¹⁄
2
teaspoon pepper, chives, if using, and ¹⁄
2
teaspoon salt. Using rubber spatula or back of wooden spoon, smash potatoes just enough to break skins. Fold in cream cheese mixture until most of liquid has been absorbed and chunks of potatoes remain. Add more cooking water as needed, 1 tablespoon at a time, until potatoes are slightly looser than desired (potatoes will thicken slightly with sitting). Season with salt and pepper to taste; serve immediately.
Add 2 peeled garlic cloves to potatoes in saucepan along with salt and bay leaf in step 1. Melt 4 tablespoons butter in 8-inch skillet over medium heat. Add ¹⁄
2
teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary and 1 minced garlic clove and cook until just fragrant, about 30 seconds; substitute butter-garlic mixture for melted butter, adding cooked garlic cloves to cream cheese along with butter-garlic mixture. Omit chives.
Cook 6 slices bacon, cut lengthwise then into ¹⁄
4
-inch pieces, in 10-inch skillet over medium heat until crisp, 5 to 7 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer bacon to paper towel–lined plate; reserve 1 tablespoon fat. Substitute bacon fat for 1 tablespoon melted unsalted butter, 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley for chives, and reduce salt added to cream cheese mixture to ¹⁄
4
teaspoon. Sprinkle potatoes with cooked bacon before serving.
