The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (100 page)

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS

Pasta ai quattro formaggi, the classic Italian pasta dish made with four cheeses and heavy cream, often turns into an inedible mess. We wanted to deliver a pasta dinner that is silky smooth and rich but not heavy—a grown-up, sophisticated version of macaroni and cheese with Italian flavors.

The cheese was first up for consideration; for the best flavor and texture, we used Italian fontina, Gorgonzola, Pecorino Romano, and Parmesan cheeses. Heating the cheese and cream together made a greasy, curdled mess, so instead we built a basic white sauce (a béchamel) by cooking butter with flour and then adding cream. Combining the hot sauce and pasta with the cheese—and not cooking the cheese in the sauce—preserved the fresh flavor of the different cheeses. Knowing the pasta would spend some time in the oven, we drained it before it was al dente so it wouldn’t turn to mush when baked. Topped with bread crumbs and more Parmesan, and baked briefly in a very hot oven, our pasta dinner was just what we wanted: creamy, rich, and undeniably flavorful.

SERVES 4 TO 6

To streamline the process, prepare the bread-crumb topping and shred, crumble, and grate the cheeses while you wait for the pasta water to boil.

1.
Pulse bread in food processor to coarse crumbs, about 10 pulses. Transfer bread crumbs to small bowl and stir in ¹⁄
₄
cup Parmesan, ¹⁄
₄
teaspoon salt, and ¹⁄
₈
teaspoon pepper; set aside. Combine fontina, Gorgonzola, Pecorino, and remaining ¹⁄
₄
cup Parmesan in large bowl; set aside.

2.
Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 500 degrees. Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt and cook, stirring often, until just shy of al dente. Drain pasta, leaving it slightly wet.

3.
While pasta is cooking, melt butter in small saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in flour until no lumps remain, about 30 seconds. Slowly whisk in cream and bring to boil, stirring occasionally. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer for 1 minute. Stir in ¹⁄
₄
teaspoon salt and ¹⁄
₄
teaspoon pepper.

4.
Add pasta to bowl with cheeses; immediately pour cream mixture over top, then cover bowl and let stand 3 minutes. Uncover bowl and stir with rubber spatula, scraping bottom of bowl, until cheeses are melted and mixture is thoroughly combined.

5.
Transfer pasta to 13 by 9-inch baking dish, then sprinkle evenly with bread-crumb mixture, pressing down lightly. Bake until topping is golden brown, about 7 minutes. Serve immediately.

Add one 14.5-ounce can diced tomatoes, drained, to pasta along with cream mixture and stir in ¹⁄
₄
cup coarsely chopped basil just before transferring pasta to baking dish.

Omit salt from cream mixture and add 4 ounces prosciutto, chopped, and 1 cup frozen peas to pasta along with cream mixture.

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS

Just about the only thing boxed macaroni and cheese has going for it is its fast prep—and the fact that kids will almost always gobble it up. We wanted a quick stovetop macaroni and cheese with an ultra-creamy texture and authentic cheese flavor—so good that it would satisfy everyone at the table. We cooked the macaroni to just shy of al dente, then drained and combined it with butter and an egg custard mixture that included evaporated milk, eggs, hot sauce, and dry mustard. For the cheese we chose cheddar, American, or Monterey Jack—and plenty of it. We stirred the cheese into the macaroni mixture until thick and creamy and then topped the mixture with toasted homemade bread crumbs—the final touch to this easy-to-prepare family favorite.

SERVES 4

If you’re in a hurry or prefer to sprinkle the dish with crumbled crackers (saltines aren’t bad), you can skip the bread-crumb step.

BREAD CRUMBS

MACARONI AND CHEESE

1. FOR THE BREAD CRUMBS:
Pulse bread in food processor to coarse crumbs, about 10 pulses. Melt butter in 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add bread crumbs and cook, stirring often, until beginning to brown, 4 to 6 minutes. Season with salt to taste; set aside.

2. FOR THE MACARONI AND CHEESE:
Mix eggs, 1 cup of evaporated milk, mustard mixture, ¹⁄
₂
teaspoon salt, pepper, and hot sauce in bowl.

3.
Meanwhile, bring 2 quarts water to boil in Dutch oven. Add pasta and 1¹⁄
₂
teaspoons salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Drain pasta and return to pot over low heat. Add butter and toss to melt.

4.
Add egg mixture and three-quarters of cheese mixture to pasta and toss until thoroughly combined and cheese starts to melt. Gradually add remaining evaporated milk and remaining cheese mixture, stirring constantly, until mixture is hot and creamy, about 5 minutes. Serve immediately, sprinkling individual portions with toasted bread crumbs.

Add ¹⁄
₄
cup grated Parmesan cheese to toasted bread crumbs. Adjust oven rack 6 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Transfer macaroni and cheese mixture to 13 by 9-inch broiler-safe baking dish and sprinkle with bread-crumb mixture. Broil until topping turns deep golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Cool casserole for 5 minutes before serving.

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS

Old-fashioned macaroni and cheese takes no shortcuts. This family favorite should boast tender pasta in a smooth, creamy sauce with great cheese flavor. Too often, the dish, which is baked in the oven, dries out or curdles. We aimed to create a foolproof version. We cooked the pasta until just past al dente and then combined it with a béchamel-based cheese sauce. For best flavor and a creamy texture, we used a combination of sharp cheddar and Monterey Jack. We combined the cooked pasta with the sauce and heated it through on the stovetop, rather than in the oven. This step helped ensure the dish didn’t dry out, but remained smooth and creamy. And to give the dish a browned topping, we sprinkled it with bread crumbs and ran it briefly under the broiler.

SERVES 6 TO 8

It’s crucial to cook the pasta until tender—that is, just past the al dente stage. Whole, low-fat, and skim milk all work well in this recipe. The recipe may be halved and baked in an 8-inch square broiler-safe baking pan. If desired, offer celery salt or hot sauce for sprinkling at the table.

1.
Pulse bread and 3 tablespoons chilled butter in food processor to coarse crumbs, about 10 pulses; set aside.

2.
Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat broiler. Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt and cook, stirring often, until tender; drain pasta.

3.
Melt remaining 5 tablespoons butter in now-empty pot over medium-high heat. Add flour, mustard, 1 teaspoon salt, and cayenne, if using, and cook, whisking constantly, until mixture becomes fragrant and deepens in color, about 1 minute. Gradually whisk in milk; bring mixture to boil, whisking constantly. Reduce heat to medium and simmer, whisking occasionally, until thickened, about 5 minutes. Off heat, slowly whisk in cheeses until completely melted. Add pasta to sauce and cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until mixture is steaming and heated through, about 6 minutes.

4.
Transfer mixture to 13 by 9-inch broiler-safe baking dish and sprinkle with bread-crumb mixture. Broil until topping is deep golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Cool casserole for 5 minutes before serving.

Add 8 ounces deli ham, sliced ¹⁄
₄
inch thick, and cut into 1-inch pieces, and 1 cup frozen peas to cheese sauce along with pasta.

Add 1 finely chopped onion to melted butter in step 3 and cook until softened and lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Add flour to onion and continue with recipe, reducing salt in sauce to ¹⁄
₂
teaspoon. Add 8 ounces kielbasa, quartered lengthwise and sliced ¹⁄
₂
inch thick, and 4 teaspoons whole grain Dijon mustard to cheese sauce along with pasta.