The Big Book of Backyard Cooking (5 page)

thyme.

EASY SAFFRON RICE

SERVES 4

1½
tablespoons olive oil

1½
cups long-grain white rice, preferably basmati rice

Salt

3
cups chicken stock

2
generous pinches (1/8 teaspoon total) crushed saffron threads

Heat oil in a medium, heavy saucepan over medium heat. When hot, add rice and cook, stirring, until grains are coated with oil, 1 minute or less. Add ¼ teaspoon salt, the stock, and saffron, and bring mixture to a simmer. Reduce heat to low and cover. Cook until all liquid has been absorbed, 15

to 20 minutes. Taste and season with more salt if needed. Rice can be used immediately or kept covered off the heat for up to 45 minutes.

STEAKS, BURGERS, AND HOTDOGS

Mention grilling, and the vision that comes to mind is of thick steaks, juicy burgers, and spicy hot dogs. This threesome is just as popular today as it was a half century ago. But what a long way we’ve come in how we prepare these foods! Steaks used to be served plain or with the standard, store-bought garnishes of ketchup and mustard. Today we season sirloins, porterhouses, or rib-eyes with aromatic rubs, serve them with bracing salsas, or top them with pats of flavored butters. Our burger repertoire has expanded exponentially. Beef burgers share billing with those made with turkey, chicken, lamb, salmon, and tuna, and for vegetarians there are enticing meatless variations. Ball-park hot dogs will always have a special place on the grill, but equally tempting are Italian sausages, bratwursts, and kielbasa cooked until lightly charred, then garnished with simple homemade condiments.

This chapter offers many variations of these all-time favorites. From Chili-Rubbed Sirloins with Guacamole Salsa, or Salmon Burgers with Cucumbers and Sesame Mayo, to Italian Sausages on Toasted Rolls with Sweet Pepper and Onion Sauté, there’s a bounty of updated tried-and-true favorites to sample.

Mantesh

CHILI-RUBBED SIRLOINS WITH

GUACAMOLE SALSA

Hot, juicy sirloin steaks and homemade guacamole salsa are a match made in heaven. These
boneless steaks, coated with a cumin and chili dry rub, are grilled until lightly charred, but still
pink inside, then garnished with a mound of chunky guacamole. Grilled Corn on the Cob with Lime
Butter
(page 136)
and Sweet Potato Chips
(page 160)
would make delicious side dishes.

SERVES 6

1
tablespoon ground cumin

2
teaspoons chili powder

½
teaspoon kosher salt

1/8
teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3
1-pound boneless sirloins, 1 inch thick, trimmed of excess fat

Vegetable oil for oiling grill rack

Chunky Guacamole Salsa
(page 306)

Mix together cumin, chili powder, salt, and pepper in a small bowl. Rub both sides of each steak with this mixture. Let stand at cool room temperature 15 minutes.

When ready to cook, oil a grill rack and arrange 4 to 5 inches from heat source. Prepare grill for a hot fire (high temperature). Grill steaks until charred outside and pink inside, 4 to 6 minutes per side for medium-rare. (Internal temperature should be 145 degrees F.) Halve each steak and mound each portion with a generous serving of Guacamole Salsa. Pass extra salsa in a bowl.

George Stephen, who worked for Weber Brothers Metal Works in Chicago, invented the
first kettle-style grill in 1951.

GARLIC-SCENTED SIRLOINS WITH RED AND

YELLOW PEPPER RELISH

A trio of complementary flavors—garlic, thyme, and rosemary—are puréed with olive oil to
produce a quick marinade for these boneless sirloins. The steaks are grilled, then served with a
colorful sweet pepper relish. For side dishes, try the Scalloped Potatoes with Crème Fraîche and
Gruyère
(page 158)
and the Green Beans Tossed with Olive Oil and Chives
(page 147).

SERVES 6

⅓ cup olive oil, plus extra for oiling grill rack

4
large cloves garlic, peeled

4½
teaspoons chopped fresh thyme

4½
teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary

3
1-pound boneless sirloins, 1 inch thick, trimmed of excess fat

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Red and Yellow Pepper Relish
(page 311)

Combine ⅓ cup of olive oil, garlic, thyme, and rosemary in a food processor or blender and process, pulsing several times, until garlic and herbs are finely minced. Brush this mixture on both sides of each steak. Salt and pepper steaks and let stand at cool room temperature 15 to 20 minutes.

Oil a grill rack and arrange 4 to 5 inches from heat source. Prepare grill for a hot fire (high temperature). Grill steaks 4 to 6 minutes per side or until rosy pink inside for medium-rare. (Internal temperature should be 145 degrees F.) Halve each steak and top each portion with a mound of Red and Yellow Pepper Relish. Pass extra relish in a small bowl.

SIRLOIN STEAKS WITH BLUE CHEESE

WALNUT BUTTER

This is a recipe for those who love strong, assertive tastes. The steaks, enhanced by a fresh
rosemary and garlic rub, are grilled, then topped with pats of Blue Cheese Walnut Butter. When
the seasoned butter is spooned over the piping hot grilled steaks, it starts to melt and forms a
delicious sauce for the meat.

SERVES 6

6
large cloves garlic, peeled

1
tablespoon crushed, dried rosemary

1½
teaspoons salt

1½
teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

3
1-pound boneless sirloin steaks, 1 inch thick, trimmed of excess fat Vegetable oil for oiling grill rack

Blue Cheese Walnut Butter
(page 325)

Combine garlic, rosemary, salt, and pepper in a food processor or blender and process several seconds until mixture resembles a coarse paste. Pat steaks dry and rub each side with some of the garlic paste. Place steaks on a platter and let stand at cool room temperature for 30 minutes.

When ready to grill steaks, oil a grill rack and arrange 4 to 5 inches from heat source. Prepare grill for a hot fire (high temperature). Grill steaks 4 to 6 minutes per side for medium-rare. (Internal temperature should be 145 degrees F.) Remove and let stand for 3 minutes.

Halve each steak and top each portion with some Blue Cheese Walnut Butter.

CHARRED T-BONE OR PORTERHOUSE

STEAKS WITH CHIMICHURRI SAUCE

The Argentines, creators of the vibrant green condiment known as chimichurri, serve this parsley,
vinegar, and olive oil sauce with grilled beef. In the following recipe, the quick and simple sauce
makes an excellent accompaniment to grilled T-bone or porterhouse steaks.

SERVES 4

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

4
1-pound T-bone or porterhouse steaks, 1 inch thick, trimmed of excess fat Vegetable oil for oiling grill rack

Chimichurri Sauce
(page 320)

Salt and pepper the steaks on both sides and set aside.

Oil a grill rack and arrange 4 to 5 inches from heat source. Prepare grill for a hot fire (high temperature). Grill steaks until lightly charred on the outside and rosy pink inside, about 4 to 6

minutes per side. (Internal temperature should be 145 degrees F.)

Serve steaks with a bowl of Chimichurri Sauce. Ladle a generous amount of sauce over each steak.

Porterhouse steaks got their name from 19th-century “porter houses” where steak and
ale were served. Around 1814, a New York City porter house keeper started serving the
cut we know as a porterhouse.

BACON-WRAPPED FILET STEAKS TOPPED

WITH ROASTED GARLIC BUTTER

These incredibly tender, bacon-wrapped filet steaks are grilled, then topped with decadent pats of
Roasted Garlic Butter. The topping, a combination of roasted garlic cloves blended with butter
and thyme, can be made ahead so at serving time you will simply need to grill the steaks, then
spread this special butter over them. The Roasted Garlic Butter can be used with other cuts of beef
and also makes a good garnish for baked potatoes or a tempting spread for grilled slices of
country or peasant bread.

SERVES 4

12
large (not jumbo) cloves garlic, peeled

¼
cup olive oil plus extra for oiling grill rack

3
tablespoons unsalted butter, diced

Kosher salt

3½
teaspoons chopped fresh chives or flat-leaf parsley, divided

½
teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper

½
teaspoon dried thyme

4
6-to 7-ounce filet steaks, 1 inch thick, trimmed of excess fat

4
very thin slices lean bacon (see note)

6-inch wooden skewers or toothpicks (which have been soaked in water for 30 minutes before using and patted dry)

Arrange an oven rack at center position and preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Place garlic in a 1-cup, ovenproof ramekin, soufflé dish, or custard cup, and add ¼ cup olive oil. Cover dish tightly with aluminum foil and place in oven. Start checking cloves after 20 minutes and check every 5 minutes until done. Roast until garlic cloves are golden and soft when pierced with a knife, about 30 minutes.

Remove from oven.

TO MAKE ROASTED GARLIC BUTTER:
With a slotted spoon, remove garlic cloves from bowl and reserve oil. Combine garlic, ½ tablespoon of the reserved oil, the butter, and 1/8 teaspoon salt in a food processor or blender and process, pulsing machine on and off for 30 seconds or less, until garlic is coarsely chopped and blended with butter and oil. Remove garlic butter to a small bowl and stir in 2 teaspoons of the chives. If the butter melts during this process, do not worry. Just refrigerate until firm again. (Garlic butter can be prepared a day ahead. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate.

Bring to room temperature 30 minutes before ready to use.)

When ready to cook steaks, oil a grill rack and arrange 4 to 5 inches from heat source. Prepare grill for a hot fire (high temperature). In a small bowl, stir together 1 teaspoon salt, the black pepper, and thyme. Rub both sides of each filet with some of this seasoning. Then wrap each steak around its sides with a slice of bacon. Secure bacon in place with a wooden skewer or with 2 to 3 toothpicks.

Grill steaks until lightly charred on the outside and until bacon is cooked, 4 to 6 minutes per side for medium-rare. (Internal temperature should be 145 degrees F.) Watch carefully to prevent overcooking.

Place steaks on a serving plate. Top each steak with a generous pat of Roasted Garlic Butter and sprinkle with some of the remaining chives. Serve immediately. The butter will start to melt and season the steaks.

NOTE:
The bacon provides a robust smoky accent to the beef, but if you prefer, you can omit it, and the steaks will still be well-flavored with just the Roasted Garlic Butter.

TENDERLOIN STEAKS WITH HOT SPICY

TOMATO RELISH

For special occasions I like to serve these grilled tenderloin steaks, rubbed with crushed
rosemary, with a colorful mélange of cooked tomatoes and leeks. The steaks, seared for only a few
minutes until dark and crusted with bits of aromatic rosemary, are delicious paired with the Spicy
Tomato Relish.

SERVES 4

¾
teaspoon dried rosemary, crushed

¾
teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper

½
teaspoon Kosher salt

4
6-to 7-ounce tenderloin steaks, 1 inch thick, trimmed of excess fat Vegetable oil for oiling grill rack

Hot Spicy Tomato Relish
(page 314)

4
fresh rosemary sprigs for garnish (optional)

Mix together rosemary, pepper, and salt in a small bowl. Pat meat dry and rub both sides of each steak with the seasoning mixture.

Oil a grill rack and arrange 4 to 5 inches from heat source. Prepare grill for a hot fire (high temperature). Grill steaks until lightly charred on the outside and pink inside, 4 to 6 minutes per side for medium-rare. (Internal temperature should be 145 degrees F.)

To serve, arrange steaks on a serving platter and top each with Hot Spicy Tomato Relish.

Garnish each steak with a rosemary sprig, if desired.

RIB-EYE STEAKS WITH WHIPPED

HORSERADISH CREAM

Rib-eye steaks, tender and flavorful with their pearly white marbling, are seasoned simply with
kosher salt and cracked black pepper in this recipe. It’s the Whipped Horseradish Cream, a
satisfying condiment that takes only minutes to assemble, that makes the dish special. The piquant,
snowy white sauce, sprinkled with chives and served cold, is spooned atop the hot grilled meat at
serving time.

SERVES 6

Vegetable oil for oiling grill rack