The Big Book of Backyard Cooking (16 page)

SERVES 4

12
tablespoons (1½ sticks) unsalted butter

2/3
cup coarsely chopped shallots

6
medium cloves garlic, thinly sliced

3
cups dry white wine

1
cup fresh flat-leaf parsley sprigs

4
sprigs fresh thyme, or 2 teaspoons dried

2
large bay leaves

4
pounds (about 4 dozen) medium mussels in the shells, scrubbed (see note)
SAFFRON MAYONNAISE

1
teaspoon saffron threads, crushed

1½
cups regular or reduced-fat (not nonfat) mayonnaise

2
teaspoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Melt 6 tablespoons of the butter in each of 2 large (6-to 8-quart) pots set over medium-high heat. When hot, put half of the shallots and garlic in each pot. Sauté, stirring, until softened, 2 to 3

minutes. Add half of the wine and half of the herbs to each pot. Bring mixture to a simmer. Add half of the mussels to each pot, trying to keep the hinged sides down. Cover and steam until the mussels are open, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove and discard any mussels that have not opened. Mound the mussels onto a large serving platter or in a large, shallow bowl. Cover loosely with foil to keep warm.

TO MAKE THE MAYONNAISE:
Strain the cooking liquid from both pots and return 2 cups of the strained liquid to only 1 of the pots. Place over high heat. Add the saffron and cook until the mixture has reduced to about ½ cup and is slightly syrupy, 5 to 8 minutes or longer. Remove and cool 5

minutes, then whisk reduced mixture into the mayonnaise. Place in a small serving bowl and sprinkle with parsley.

Remove the foil from the mussels and serve with the Saffron Mayonnaise.

NOTE:
Use the mussels as soon as possible after purchasing them. If you have to store them, refrigerate in a mesh bag or in a bowl, but not in a plastic bag

(because they would suffocate). Cover with a damp towel. Live mussels should

have tightly closed lids. If a mussel is open, place under cold running water. If the mussel does not close, discard it.

PO’ BOYS WITH CORNED BEEF, CREAMY

CARAWAY COLESLAW, AND SWISS

Po’ boys, which originated in New Orleans as a cheap and quick sandwich for dock workers, are
most often made with fried oysters, so this version is slightly different. The large soft-crusted
Italian loaves typically used for such sandwiches are split and layered with sliced corned beef,
Gruyère cheese, and a creamy slaw flavored with crushed caraway seeds. The oversize sandwiches
are then cut into individual portions. Serve the sandwiches with crispy potato chips, kosher
pickles, and olives.

SERVES 8

2
1-pound soft-crusted Italian bread loaves, each about 12 to 14 inches long and 6 inches wide
1½
pounds thinly sliced corned beef

1
pound thinly sliced imported Swiss cheese such as Gruyère

Creamy Caraway Coleslaw
(page 182)

With a serrated knife, halve each loaf of bread horizontally. For each po’ boy, arrange half of the corned beef on a bottom bread half, then cover with half of the sliced cheese. Using a slotted spoon, spread half of the coleslaw over the cheese layer and top with remaining bread half. Makes 2 large po’ boys.

To serve, arrange po’ boys on a wooden bread board or on a serving platter. With a serrated knife, cut each sandwich into 4 equal servings.

HAM, CHEDDAR, AND PLUM CHUTNEY ON

WHOLE WHEAT

Ham and cheese sandwiches are elevated to a new dimension when prepared with a sweet and tart
plum chutney and topped with mixed greens. The chutney can be prepared several days in advance
and refrigerated until needed.

SERVES 4

8
slices good-quality whole-wheat bread, lightly toasted

3
to
4
tablespoons Dijon mustard

8
ounces thinly sliced baked ham

8
ounces thinly sliced sharp white Cheddar cheese

About ½ to ¾ cup Plum Chutney
(page 317)

1
to
1½
cups loosely packed mixed lettuce greens

Toothpicks

To assemble sandwiches, spread a bread slice generously with Dijon mustard. Top with 3 to 4

ham slices, 2 cheese slices, and 2 to 3 tablespoons Plum Chutney. Mound some greens on top and cover with another bread slice generously spread with mustard. Repeat to make 3 more sandwiches.

Cut sandwiches diagonally into quarters. Skewer quarters with toothpicks to secure. Arrange sandwiches on serving plates.

In the 18th century, John Montagu, the Earl of Sandwich, is said to have created the first
sandwich when he refused to leave a card game and ate cold meat placed between slices
of bread.

BLTS WITH BASIL MAYO ON TOASTED

COUNTRY BREAD

Here’s a fabulous variation on classic bacon, lettuce, and tomato sandwiches. Quickly made basil
mayonnaise adds extra flavor, and peppery arugula replaces traditional iceberg lettuce. A dense
country loaf is a change from soft white bread.

SERVES 4

8
thick slices (8 ounces) smoked bacon

8
½-inch-thick slices country French bread (cut on the diagonal from a crusty loaf about 4 inches in diameter) Basil Mayonnaise
(page 328)

3
to
4
medium, ripe tomatoes, thinly sliced

1
small bunch of arugula, stemmed

Toothpicks

Fry bacon in a large, heavy skillet set over medium heat until crisp and golden brown. Remove and drain on paper towels.

Toast bread slices until golden. Brush 1 side of each slice with Basil Mayonnaise.

To assemble sandwiches, arrange a layer of tomato slices slightly overlapping on a bread slice.

Top with 2 bacon slices, then with several arugula leaves. Cover with another bread slice. Cut the sandwich in half on the diagonal with a serrated knife. Repeat to make 3 more sandwiches. Skewer each half with a toothpick to secure, and arrange the sandwich halves on a serving plate. Serve immediately.

TURKEY, APPLE, AND CHEDDAR CLUBS

These sandwiches, quickly made with easy-to-find ingredients, are perfect to serve for an outdoor
lunch or light supper. The Chutney Mayonnaise, made with purchased dressing mixed with
chopped mango chutney and curry powder, adds a distinctive flavor, while the crisp apple slices
lend unexpected crunch. Offer the sandwiches with potato chips and glasses of Old-Fashioned
Lemonade
(page 214)
.

SERVES 4

8
thin slices whole-wheat country or crusty sourdough bread

1
recipe Chutney Mayonnaise
(page 330)

10
to
12
ounces thinly sliced smoked turkey

8
ounces thinly sliced medium-sharp white Cheddar cheese

1
large Granny Smith apple, halved and cored but not peeled

2
teaspoons fresh lemon juice

4
small romaine or red leaf lettuce leaves

Toothpicks or wooden skewers

Spread 1 side of each bread slice generously with 1 tablespoon or more of Chutney Mayonnaise.

Top a slice with ¼ of the sliced turkey, then with ¼ of the sliced cheese. Slice each apple half thinly and toss slices with lemon juice in a small bowl. Arrange 4 to 5 slices over the cheese layer, then top with a lettuce leaf and another slice of bread. Repeat to make 3 more sandwiches.

Halve sandwiches on the diagonal and skewer halves with a toothpick to secure.

CHICKEN CLUBS À LA PROVENÇALE

I’ve never had a sandwich like this when in southern France, but the ingredients are redolent of
Provence. Creamy goat cheese, fresh herbs, roasted red peppers, and mesclun greens are
combined with roasted chicken and served on slices of country French bread. These sandwiches
are filling enough for a substantial lunch or a light supper. If you don’t have any leftover roasted
or grilled chicken on hand, buy a roasted chicken from a local supermarket to save time.

SERVES 4

GOAT CHEESE SPREAD

10
to
11
ounces soft creamy goat cheese

3
tablespoons chopped niçoise or kalamata olives

2½
tablespoons chopped fresh basil

1
tablespoon drained, chopped capers

2½
teaspoons chopped fresh thyme

2
teaspoons minced garlic

1
teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

SANDWICHES

8
½-inch-thick slices crusty country French bread, lightly toasted

8
to
10
ounces roasted or grilled chicken, sliced (see note)

1
7-ounce jar roasted red peppers

1⅓
to
1½
cups loosely packed mesclun greens or mixed baby greens
2
teaspoons olive oil

1
teaspoon fresh lemon juice

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Toothpicks (optional)

TO MAKE THE GOAT CHEESE SPREAD:
Combine all ingredients in a nonreactive bowl and mix well to blend. (The spread can be made 1 day ahead; cover and refrigerate.)

TO MAKE THE SANDWICHES:
Spread all the bread slices evenly on 1 side with the goat cheese mixture. (Depending on the size of your bread slices, you may not need to use all of the spread; save extra for another use. It is good on crackers or stuffed into cherry tomatoes.) Arrange chicken on 4 of the slices. Drain, rinse, and pat the peppers dry, and use just enough to make an even layer over the chicken on each sandwich. (You may not need to use all of the peppers; save extras for another use.)

Toss the greens with the olive oil and lemon juice, and season generously with salt and pepper.

Divide greens and mound on top of peppers. Cover sandwiches with remaining bread slices. Cut each sandwich in half and skewer halves with toothpicks, if desired. Serve immediately.

NOTE:
These sandwiches are also good made with sliced, roasted turkey.

PAN-GRILLED WRAPS WITH CHICKEN,

GINGER, AND PLUM SAUCE

These wraps fall into the category of “creative convenience” cooking and take no time at all to
assemble. Flour tortillas are spread with a thin layer of cream cheese, then with Asian plum sauce.

Chopped fresh ginger and green onions are added next, and finally slices of roasted chicken and
watercress sprigs. Then the tortillas are rolled into cylinders and grilled in a stovetop pan. By
buying plum sauce in the Asian condiment section of the grocery and purchasing a roasted chicken
at the rotisserie counter, you’ll save time but will not sacrifice flavor. Serve the wraps for a light
lunch or supper along with a mixed greens salad.

SERVES 4

4
8-inch flour tortillas

4
ounces cream cheese, plus more if needed

½
cup Asian plum sauce, plus more if needed (see notes)

½
cup chopped green onions including 2 inches of green stems

3
tablespoons minced peeled fresh ginger

1
small (2-pound) purchased roasted chicken (see notes)

1
bunch watercress, stemmed

Wooden skewers or toothpicks

Vegetable oil for oiling grill pan

Place tortillas on a clean work surface. Spread each with a thin layer (about 2 tablespoons) of cream cheese, then with a thin layer (about 2 tablespoons) of plum sauce. Divide evenly and sprinkle green onions and ginger over tortillas.

Cut thin slices from breast of chicken. (Save dark meat for another use.) Place some sliced chicken on top of each tortilla. Lay enough watercress sprigs on top to form a 1-inch-wide band across the centers of tortillas. Then, roll tortillas up tightly into cylinders and fasten with skewers or toothpicks. (Wraps can be prepared 1 hour ahead; cover and refrigerate.)

When ready to grill wraps, oil a stovetop grill pan or coat the bottom of a large, heavy skillet with oil. Place grill pan or skillet over medium-high heat. Grill or sauté wraps, turning several times, until grill marks appear (if using a grill pan) or until lightly browned (if using a skillet) on all surfaces and sandwiches are hot inside, 2 to 3 minutes or longer.

Cut each tortilla diagonally into halves. Arrange a cluster of watercress sprigs on serving plate and surround with sliced wraps. Serve warm.

NOTES:
Plum sauce is available in the Asian ingredient section of supermarkets or in Asian groceries.

:
Try to buy a plain or lemon-roasted chicken; avoid barbecued and

highly spiced birds for this recipe.

TUNA SALAD WITH OLIVES, TOMATOES, AND

BASIL ON CRUSTY BAGUETTES

Tuna salad made with sun-dried tomatoes, basil, and olives bound with an orange-scented
mayonnaise is delicious served on crispy baguettes. Serve the sandwiches with potato chips and
Old-Fashioned Lemonade
(page 214)
.

SERVES 4

12
ounces white-meat tuna packed in water, drained and coarsely chopped
½
cup pitted chopped kalamata olives

6
tablespoons finely chopped celery

¼
cup chopped oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes

¼
cup chopped fresh basil

Scant
½
teaspoon red pepper flakes

Salt

6
tablespoons regular or reduced-fat (not nonfat) mayonnaise

2
tablespoons frozen orange juice concentrate, defrosted

2
teaspoons grated orange zest

2
best-quality crusty baguettes

About 1⅓ to 1½ cups lettuce greens such as baby spinach or Boston lettuce

Combine tuna, olives, celery, sun-dried tomatoes plus 1 teaspoon of the oil in which they were packed, basil, red pepper flakes, and a generous pinch of salt in a bowl and mix well. Whisk together mayonnaise, orange juice concentrate, and orange zest in another bowl. Add to bowl with tuna and mix well. Taste and season with more salt if needed. (The salad can be prepared 3 hours ahead; cover and refrigerate.)