The Audacity of Hops: The History of America's Craft Beer Revolution (65 page)

Supreme locally
Anchor timeline.

Anchor was distributing
Hartman, “The Alchemist of Anchor Steam.”
Visit to New Albion
Grossman,
Beyond the Pale.

The Fireman and the Goat Shed

de Bakker bio; early brewery details
Tom de Bakker, interview with the author, January 20, 2012.

Capped its first bottles; de Bakker quotes
Charles Hillinger, “Small-Label Beers—More Are Brewing,”
Los Angeles Times,
June 24, 1980, A1.

100 more acres of Sonoma County
“History of Sonoma County Wine Country,” accessed January 13, 2012,
www.sonomawine.com/about-sonoma-county/history-of-sonoma-county-wine-country
.
Grossman and Camusi knew
Grossman,
Beyond the Pale.

First craft brewery not only in Oregon
Andrew Jones, “Craft Brewing Defines Oregon as US Beer Capital,”
National Geographic News
website, August 10, 2001,
http://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2001/08/0808_oregonbrewing.html
.

Ware biography; Hummer-Ware conversation; 43rd brewery license
Stick Ware, interview with the author, January 19, 2012.

Increasingly cultish Big Beer
“Coors Beer, Tastes Right,”
Economist,
May 17, 1975, 62.

Details of Boulder Brewing's starting up
Ware. The name would change to Boulder Beer Company.

Brewery construction and Gold Hill Inn delivery
Ware; Roger Fillion, “Small-Batch Craft Brewer Taps Coors for Tips on Getting Started,”
Rocky Mountain News
(Denver), May 23, 2008.

West Coast Style

Reassessed their plans
Grossman,
Beyond the Pale.

45-gallon batches
Ibid.

Grain pickups
Barkley.

Routinely led classes
Michael Lewis, interview with the author, winter 2012; McAuliffe, December 18.

“The Brewery, Northern California” and James Taylor was a beer fan
Denison.

Jackson trip
de Bakker.

Prial excerpt
Frank J. Prial, “In California Wine Country, a Rare Beer,”
New York Times,
June 12, 1979, C14.

Thoughts on New Albion and a 10-barrel system
Grossman,
Beyond the Pale.

Even Maytag
Hartman, “The Alchemist of Anchor Steam.”

He told the
Washington Post Ristow and Miller, “Brewing ‘Real Ale.'”

Weinberg was predicting
Grossman,
Beyond the Pale.

“I was simply extrapolating”
“The New Age,”
Modern Brewery Age,
March 27, 2000.

Fundraising, equipment and maybe this whole brewery thing
Grossman,
Beyond the Pale.

Lewis visit and recipe decision
Ibid.

Not until the eleventh batch
Rob Burton,
Hops and Dreams: The Story of Sierra Nevada Brewing Company
(Chico, CA: Stansbury Publishing, 2010), 186; Ken Grossman, e-mail message to the author, July 2012.

Mayflower Refugee

Bradford biography
Daniel Bradford, interview with the author, September 30, 2011.

Evolution of
The Complete Joy of Homebrewing Papazian. In that first issue of
Zymurgy,
it was called
The Joy of Brewing.

Bradford's reaction
Bradford.

Matzen left the A.H.A.
Hieronymus,
“Zymurgy:
AHA at the Beginning.”

Could even be found
Charlie Papazian, “Daniel Bradford Comes on as a Hired Gun,” Examiner.com, April 9, 2009,
www.examiner.com/article/daniel-bradford-comes-on-as-a-hired-gun
.

Bradford efforts to sell the book
Bradford.

Through the late spring and summer
Papazian.

Estimated 1.4 million homebrewers
Brad Smith, “Now That Home-Brew Beer Is Legal, Americans Savor Their Own Suds,” UPI, June 19, 1984.

The tone was
Charlie Papazian,
The Complete Joy of Homebrewing,
3rd. ed. (New York: Quill, 1983), 1.

“Wherever my travels take me”
Papazian,
The Complete Joy of Homebrewing,
preface.

How the Brewpub Was Born

Blasting through the Cascades
Michael Jackson, “How Bert Grant Saved the World,” Beer Hunter website, accessed January 17, 2012,
www.beerhunter.com/documents/19133-001575.html
.

Grant biography
Peter Reid, “Keeping the Faith: Bert Grant of Yakima Brewing & Malting Co.,”
Modern Brewery Age,
November 18, 1991.

In Carter's home state
“Georgia Homebrewers Fight for Legality,”
Modern Brewery Age,
February 3, 1992, 3. It would not be until 1995 that homebrewing was legalized in Georgia.

In Washington State
Washington State Legislative research office, interview with the author, January 18, 2012.

Details on the opening
Jackson, “How Bert Grant Saved the World”; Scott Sunde, “Microbrewery Pioneer Bert Grant Led Northwest Beer Revolution,”
Seattle Post-Intelligencer,
August 1, 2001. The brewpub would eventually move to an old Yakima train depot.

Jackson-Grant conversation
Jackson, “How Bert Grant Saved the World.”

Wearing a kilt
Shelley Davis, “The Best of Brew,”
Washington Post,
June 24, 1984, D2.

Only to have disbelieving retailers
de Bakker.

The First Shakeout

For the fiscal year ending
“Profits Soar at New Albion Brewery,”
Brewers Digest,
October 1980, 56.

Promised to find investors
Leo DeKinis (a banker who knew McAuliffe), interview with the author, January 12, 2012; Denison.

Responses like these
Barkley.

The de Bakkers ran the numbers
de Bakker.

Rolled out in 40 states
“Budweiser Debuts New Light Beer,” Associated Press, March 1, 1982.

Market share of 32.5 percent
PR Newswire, January 10, 1985.

”There are no easy answers”
Michael A. Verespej, “It's Hard to Beat the Busches,”
Industry Week
, July 12, 1982, 52.

No one would remember much
McAuliffe, December 18; Barkley.

McAuliffe and his crew
McAuliffe, both interviews with the author.

“That's a Great Idea, Charlie”

“That's a great idea, Charlie”
Burkhard Bilger, “A Better Brew,”
New Yorker,
November 24, 2008,
page 88
.

Papazian decided
Bradford.

Papazian hosted
Papazian; Bradford.

Jackson-Burch conversation
Burch.

Festival logistics
“A Beer Drinker's Program to the American Homebrewers Association Fourth Annual National Homebrew and Microbrewery Conference & National Homebrew and Country Homebrew Competition,” American Homebrewers Association, 1982.

In about an hour
Burch.

Mingled with aficionados and the only region
“A Drinker's Program.”

“All the ambiance” and “a disaster”
Dick Kreck, “The Association,”
American Brewer,
March/April 1988, 56.

Had to borrow money
Vince Cottone, “Movement in the Right Direction,”
American Brewer,
Fall 1987, 28; Maureen Ogle, “First Draft Follies: Early History of the American Homebrewers Association and Brewers Association, Part 8,” accessed June 3, 2012,
maureenogle.com/tag/first-draft-follies
.

Buying its toilet paper in bulk
Papazian.

The Third Wave Builds

Flew to Boston
Matthew Reich, interview with the author, January 20, 2012.

Reich details
Sandra Salmans, “A Local Beer Not for Everyone,”
New York Times,
February 19, 1985, D1, column 3; Matthew Reich, “The Old New York Beer Company Business Plan and Market Research,” 1982.

F.X. Matt Brewing details
“Brewery History,” Saranac, accessed June 3, 2012,
http://www.saranac.com/page/brewery-history
; “Matt Generations Brew Utica History,”
Utica (NY) Observer-Dispatch,
April 2, 2007, 1.

Reputation for bluntness
Reich; Steve Hindy, interview with the author, September 9, 2010.

“Dumbest idea” and wheels of commerce greased
Reich.

To sell 4,000 cases
Reich shared his business plan from the time with the author. Subsequent details about the start-up phase from Reich and other material provided.

He was not familiar
Reich.

Newman details and “hopped”
Bryan Miller, “American Beer: How Changing Tastes Have Changed It,”
New York Times,
May 12, 1982, C1, column 4.

Vendors were not always happy
Hindy.

“Americans like their beer cold”
Doug G. Miller, “British-Trained Brewer Learns ‘Americans Like Their Beer Cold,'” UPI, January 4, 1983.

Chesbay details and “no cornflakes”
Dan McCoubrey, “Virginia ‘Chesbay Beer' to Challenge Imported Lager Market,”
Washington Post,
January 3, 1983, 9.

”Brew beer by tongue”
T. R. Reid, “High Hopes for Home-Brew,”
Washington Post,
June 6, 1983, B1.

First American craft brewery
Charlie Papazian, “Trailblazers of American Craft Brewing, 1983-1987, Part 1,”
Examiner.com
, August 16, 2011,
www.examiner.com/article/trailblazers-of-american-craft-brewing-1983-1987-part-1
.

Palo Alto Brewing details
“A High-Tech Beer from Silicon Valley,”
New York Times,
November 15, 1983, D5, column 1;
Erickson Report,
vol. 1, no. 9, accessed January 23, 2012,
www.realbeer.com/redbrickpress/tomb.html
.

Thousand Oaks details
The Microbrewed Beer of the Month Club newsletter, vol. 2, no. 10, April 1996,
www.beermonthclub.com/newsletters/vol2no10.htm
.

“White out ‘almond farm'”
Bill Owens, interview with the author, May 2012.

“I sell it for a dollar and a half”
William Least Heat-Moon, “A Glass of Handmade,”
Atlantic Monthly,
November 1987, 260.

Brewing 120 cases of beer
Barkley.

Bridgeport Brewing details
Karl Ockert and Dick Ponzi, interview with the author, spring 2010.

Widmer Brothers details
Widmer Brothers website, accessed January 23, 2012,
http://widmerbrothers.com
; “Rob Widmer Interview, Part I,”
Brewpublic,
accessed January 23, 2012,
http://brewpublic.com/beer-events/rob-widmer-interview-part-1/
.

Born of a Belgian yeast strain
Christine Frey, “A Moment with Paul Shipman, Founder of Redhook,”
Seattle Post-Intelligencer,
August 28, 2003.

Soon reached capacity and other Redhook details
“About Redhook Brewery,” 7G Distributing, accessed January 24, 2012,
www.abwholesaler.com/group04/7gdistributingllc1/OurBrands/Redhook
; Michael Kaplan, “Tiny Breweries Work to Build Big Impact,”
Advertising Age,
April 7, 1986, S-12.

Who was also inspired
“The Story Behind Hale's Ales Brewery and Pub,” Hale's Ales website, accessed January 24, 2012,
http://halesbrewery.com/about_full.htm
.

Poured the first beers
Alf Collins, “Fresh Today,”
Seattle Times,
January 2, 1985, F5.

In an old general store
“Brewing a National Image,” Associated Press, February 20, 1996.

128 breweries before Prohibition
Brian Yaeger,
Red White, and Brew: An American Beer Odyssey
(New York: St. Martin's Griffin, 2008), 49.

“I just crank up”
“Small Is Tasty,”
Time,
July 25, 1983.

Badgerow-Averill conversation and other Chelsea details
Ted Badgerow, interview with the author, February 2, 2012.

“That have sprung up”
“A High-Tech Beer from Silicon Valley,”
New York Times.

The whole idea of homebrewing
T. R. Reid, “High Hopes for Home-Brew.”

The Lesson of the Nylon String

Koch-Jackson conversation and Koch hunch confirmed
J. Koch.

A friend of his grandfather's and faded to background noise
Ibid.

A rugby player from the Australian Outback
Ibid.

Outward bound and lesson of the nylon string
Jim Koch, written with Glenn Rifkin, “A Less-Is-More Lesson,”
New York Times,
July 20, 2003, section 3, column 5, 12; J. Koch.

Koch's consternation
J. Koch.

The advantage matrix
Boston Consulting Group website, accessed February 8, 2012,
www.bcg.com/about_bcg/history/history_1981.aspx
.

The firm's revenue
John A. Byrne, “Are All These Consultants Really Necessary?”
Forbes,
October 10, 1983, 136.

Advising clients as Rolodex prominent
Gregory K. Ericksen,
What's Luck Got to Do with It? Twelve Entrepreneurs Reveal the Secrets Behind Their Success
(New York: Wiley, 1997), 45.

That was his epiphany
J. Koch.

“We've spent 20 years”
Bob Weinstein, “From Beer to Eternity,”
Entrepreneur,
February 1, 1997.

Charles Koch biography
“Charles Koch, Director of the Boston Beer Company, Dies at 88,” PRNewswire, June 15, 2011.