The Attacking Ocean (2 page)

These chapters reside firmly in the past, but the tempo and character of the history changes in “Catastrophic Forces,” chapters
5
to
10
. Now we are much closer to the present, telling stories of human vulnerability and of societies that often have direct relationships with those of today. Here, most chapters move seamlessly from the past into the present, for the same processes that shaped relationships with ancient sea levels still operate today. For instance, countless early Mediterranean ports had problems with natural sinking and also with accumulating river silt and severe storms. The same problems afflicted medieval Venice and continue to threaten its future today—which is why we journey from past into the present in this and other chapters. The same argument applies to chapters 9 and 10, which describe sea level changes in China and
Japan. In all these chapters, the emphasis is more on major natural events, which bring catastrophe in their train, especially sea surges and tsunamis, the latter the dominant theme of
chapter 10
. In the case of northern Europe and south Asia, I bring the story forward to later times, leaving the modern struggles with rising sea levels to later chapters.

“Challenging Inundations” comprises the final five chapters, in which I describe some of the extraordinary challenges that confront us today. Again, the coverage is geographic, largely because each area has its own distinctive issues.
Chapter 11
describes the menacing difficulties that confront Bangladesh, where 168 million people live close to sea level with nowhere to go. Here, the long-term problem of environmental refugees raises its head, a global problem that is currently on few governments’ agendas, although it should be.
Chapter 12
, “The Dilemma of Islands” raises not only the issue of environmental refugees, but also the difficulties of relocating entire villages and small island nations. “The Crookedest River in the World” takes us back deep into the history of the Mississippi and its peoples to a delta coast and modern cities threatened from both up- and downstream. This is a story of sea defenses erected in the face of extreme storms, unpredictable river floods, and rising sea levels. The Low Countries face the same dilemma as Bangladesh, lands walled off in an ultimate expression of human determination to resist the attacking sea to the death. The epilogue looks at the future and rising sea levels in the context of the United States, where millions of people live in houses but a few meters above today’s sea level. Hurricane Sandy, which devastated much of New York and the New Jersey Shore in October 2012, provided a sobering reminder of just how vulnerable we are to a future of more frequent extreme weather events and violent sea surges that can render tens of thousands homeless.

Everyone should start this book by reading
chapter 1
, but thereafter you have choices. Brief summary statements introduce each section to help you on your way. You can follow the story chapter by chapter, moving from area to area as the narrative moves forward. If you find this confusing, especially the winding back of chronological narratives from one chapter to the next, you can explore different areas by jumping between widely dispersed chapters. An alternative table of contents on
page xi guides you through this option. This is a particularly effective way of moving from past to present within specific geographies. Provided you end by reading chapter 15, you should leave both with focused narratives of areas that interest you and with a general sense of the central messages of the book. If you choose this approach, your choices are open-ended. Using the notes at the end of the book, you can then delve more deeply into the enormous literature that surrounds each chapter.

1
Minus One Hundred Twenty-Two Meters and Climbing

On October 28, 2012, Hurricane Sandy, the largest Atlantic hurricane on record, came ashore in New Jersey. Sandy’s assault and sea surge brought the ocean into neighborhoods and houses, inundated parking lots and tunnels, turned parks into lakes. When it was all over and the water receded, a huge swath of the Northeast American coast looked like a battered moonscape. Only Hurricane Katrina, which devastated New Orleans in 2005, was more costly. Katrina, with its gigantic sea surge, had been a wake-up call for people living on low-lying coasts, but the disaster soon receded from the public consciousness. Sandy struck in the heart of the densely populated Northeastern Corridor of the United States seven years later and impacted the lives of millions of people. The storm was an epochal demonstration of the power of an attacking ocean to destroy and kill in a world where tens of millions of people live on coastlines close to sea level. This time, people really sat up and took notice in the face of an extreme weather event of a type likely to be more commonplace in a warmer future. As this book goes to press, a serious debate about rising sea levels and the hazards they pose for humanity may have finally begun—but perhaps not.

Sandy developed out of a tropical depression south of Kingston, Jamaica, on October 22. Two days later, it passed over Jamaica, then over Cuba and Haiti, killing seventy-one people, before traversing the Bahamas. Come October 28, Sandy strengthened again, eventually making
landfall about 8 kilometers southwest of Atlantic City, New Jersey, with winds of 150 kilometers an hour. By then, Sandy was not only an unusually large hurricane but also a hybrid storm. A strong Arctic air pattern to the north forced Sandy to take a sharp left into the heavy populated Northeast when normally it would have veered into the open Atlantic and dissipated there. The blend produced a super storm with a wind diameter of 1,850 kilometers, said to be the largest since 1888, when far fewer people lived along the coast and in New York. Unfortunately, the tempest also arrived at a full moon with its astronomical high tides. Sandy was only a Category 1 hurricane, but it triggered a major natural disaster partly because it descended on a densely populated seaboard where thousands of houses and other property lie within a few meters of sea level. Imagine the destruction a Category 5 storm would have wrought—something that could happen in the future.

The scale of destruction was mind-boggling. Sandy brought torrential downpours, heavy snowfall, and exceptionally high winds to an area of the eastern United States larger than Europe. Over one hundred people died in the affected states, forty of them in New York City. The storm cut off electricity for days for over 4.8 million customers in 15 states and the District of Columbia, 1,514,147 of them in New York alone. Most destructive of all, a powerful, record-breaking 4.26-meter sea surge swept into New York Harbor on the evening of October 29. The rising waters inundated streets, tunnels, and subways in Lower Manhattan, Staten Island, and elsewhere. Fires caused by electrical explosions and downed power wires destroyed homes and businesses, over one hundred residences in the Breezy Point area of Queens alone. Even the Ground Zero construction site was flooded. Fortunately, the authorities had advance warning. In advance of the storm, all public transit systems were shut down, ferry services were suspended, and airports closed until it was safe to fly. All major bridges and tunnels into the city were closed. The New York Stock Exchange shut down for two days. Initial recovery was slow, with shortages of gasoline causing long lines. Rapid transit systems slowly restored service, but the damage caused by the storm surge in lower Manhattan delayed reopening of critical links for days.

The New Jersey Shore, an iconic vacation area in the Northeast, suffered
worst of all. For almost 150 years, people from hot, crowded cities have flocked to the Shore to lie on its beaches, families often going to the same place for generations. They eat ice cream and pizza, play in arcades once used by their grandparents, drink in bars, and go to church. The Shore could be a seedy place, fraught with racial tensions, and sometimes crime and violence, but there was always something for everybody, be they a wealthy resident of a mansion, a contestant in a Miss America pageant, a reality TV actor, a skinny-dipper, or a musician. Bruce Springsteen grew up along the Shore and his second album featured the song “4th of July, Asbury Park (Sandy),” an ode to a girl of that name and the Shore. “Sandy, the aurora is rising behind us; the pier lights our carnival life forever,” he sang. The words have taken on new meaning since the hurricane came.

Fortunately, the residents were warned in advance of the storm. They were advised to evacuate their homes as early as October 26. Two days later, the order became mandatory. New Jersey governor Chris Christie also ordered the closure of Atlantic City’s casinos, a decision that proved wise when Sandy swept ashore with brutal force, pulverizing long-established businesses, boardwalks, and homes. Atlantic City started a trend when it built its first boardwalk in 1870 to stop visitors from tracking sand into hotels. Boardwalk amusements are big business today, many of them faced by boardwalks that are as much as a 0.8-kilometer from the waves. Now many of the Shore’s iconic boardwalks are history. The waves and storm surge destroyed a roller coaster in Seaside Heights; it lay half submerged in the breakers. Seaside Heights itself was evacuated because of gas leaks and other dangers. Piers and carousels vanished; bars and restaurants were reduced to rubble. Bridges to barrier islands buckled, leaving residents unable to return home. The Shore may be rebuilt, but it will never be the same. A long-lived tradition has been interrupted, perhaps never to return. For all the fervent vows that the Shore will rise again, no one knows what will come back in its place along a coastline where the ocean, not humanity, is master.

As the waters of destruction receded, they left $50 billion of damage behind them, and a sobering reminder of the hazards millions of people face along the densely populated eastern coast of the United States.
Like Hurricanes Katrina in 2005 and Irene in 2011, Sandy showed us in no uncertain terms that a higher incidence of extreme weather events with their attendant sea surges threaten low-lying communities along much of the East Coast—from Rhode Island and Delaware to the Chesapeake and parts of Washington, DC, and far south along the Carolina coasts and into Florida, which escaped the full brunt of Sandy’s fury. There, high winds and waves washed sand onto coastal roads and there was some coastal flooding, a warning of what would certainly occur should a major hurricane come ashore in Central or Southern Florida—and the question is not
if
such an event will occur, but
when
.

ONE HUNDRED AND twenty meters and climbing: that’s the amount of sea level rise since the end of the Ice Age some fifteen thousand years ago. Slowly, inexorably, the ascent continues in a warming world. Today the ocean laps at millions of people’s doorsteps—crouched, ready to wreak catastrophic destruction with storm-generated sea surges and floods. We face a future that we are not prepared to handle, and it’s questionable just how much most of us think about it. This makes the lessons of Katrina, Irene, and Sandy, and other recent storms important to heed. Part of our understanding of the threat must come from an appreciation of the complex relationship between humanity and the rising ocean, which is why this book begins on a low land bridge between Siberia and Alaska fifteen thousand years ago …

BETWEEN SIBERIA AND Alaska, late summer, fifteen thousand years ago. A pitiless north wind fills the air with fine dust that masks the pale-blue sky. Patches of snow lie in the shallow river valleys that dissect the featureless landscape. A tiny group of humans trudge down the valley close to water’s edge, the wind at their backs, the men’s eyes constantly on the move, searching for predators. They can hear the roar of the ocean in the shallow bay, where wind squalls whip waves into a white frenzy. A few days earlier, the women had trapped some arctic ptarmigan with willow snares, but the few remaining birds hanging at their
belts are barely enough for another meal. A dark shadow looms through the dusty haze—a solitary young mammoth struggling to free itself from mud at river’s edge.

The men fan out and approach from downwind, scoping out the prospects for a kill. The young beast is weakening rapidly after days in the muddy swamp. Nothing is to be gained by going in for the kill at the moment, so the band pitches camp a short distance away and lights a large fire to keep away predators. A gray, bitterly cold dawn reveals the helpless mammoth barely clinging to life, mired up to its stomach. A young man leaps onto the beast’s hairy back and drives his stone-tipped spear between its shoulder blades, deep into the heart. He jumps off to one side, landing in the mud. The hunters watch the mammoth’s death throes and thrust more spears into their helpless prey. Soon everyone moves in to skin the flanks and dismember the exposed parts. A short distance away, wolves lurk, ready to move in when the humans leave.

Back in camp, the men build low racks of fresh mammoth bone and lay out strips of flesh to dry in the ceaseless wind, while the women and children cook meat over the fire. Around them, the dust-filled gloom never lifts, the wind blows, and the roar of the ocean never leaves their consciousness. The sea is never a threat, for their lives revolve around the land and they can easily avoid any encroaching waves by doing what they always have done—keeping on the move.

THIS IMAGINED MAMMOTH hunt unfolded at a time when the world was emerging from a prolonged deep freeze. The bitter cold of a long glacial cycle had peaked about seven thousand years earlier, the most recent of a more than 750,000-year seesaw of lengthy cold and shorter inter-glacial periods driven by changes in the earth’s orbit around the sun, which had began 2.5 million years ago.
¹
Twenty-one thousand years ago, world sea levels were just under 122 meters below modern shorelines. The seas were beginning to rise fast, as a rapid thaw began and glacial meltwater flowed into northern oceans. Soon one would need a skin boat to cross from Siberia to Alaska and the mammoth hunters’ killing grounds would be no more.