The Art of Introducing Dogs (10 page)

BOOK: The Art of Introducing Dogs
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Case studies

The following are 5 stories of dog to dog introductions. Some of these introductions were successful whiles other were less so.

Angela and her 3 females, 1 male

Angela started off with a female Belgian shepherd, she then added a male Border Collie once her female was 2 years of age. Once the male reached 18 months of age, he began to show aggression at the dog park, she decided to leave him at home and continued to take her female. When her Belgium Shepherd turned 9 years of age, she decided to adopt a shelter dog, a 1 year old female Boxer. The male Border Collie was not happy to welcome a newcomer. A slow introduction was required. Angela, set up a series of protected contact introductions where she kept the Boxer behind a glass door so the others could see her but have no contact. The male showed immediate aggression — body tension, baring teeth, lunging. Over several days of rotating dogs in and out of the house and yard so they had no physical contact and only scent contact with each other, the males aggressive behaviour decreased so Angela progressed to introductions through a security screen door. Several more days went by and then finally full physical introductions occurred - first with the aged female and then once accepted by her, with the male Border Collie. All went well. Another year later, Angela decided to add yet another female — this time an 8 week old Cocker Spaniel pup. She followed the same introduction procedure as she did with the Boxer but this time she also limited the time the puppy was with the adults even after successfully introduced to allow the adults to have time out from the puppy’s exuberance—a successful introduction.

Sabrina and her 3 males

Sabrina got two male puppies at roughly the same time — a male German shepherd and a male Border Collie mix. Neither dog was ever properly or purposefully socialised and by adulthood, both dogs showed some forms of aggression or bullying behaviour to other unfamiliar dogs. The behaviours were generated more from fear and anxiety than from a desire to injure another dog. Both dogs had excellent bite inhibition and had never made contact with another dog’s skin. Regardless, they now only go to the dog park at times when no other dogs are present. Sabrina decided to add a male Kelpie cross Shepherd puppy to her pack. She found the puppy on the street, it was homeless with no identification — so she decided to keep him. She, like Angela, used protected contact to introduce her puppy to the adult dogs. She kept the puppy in the house with her for the first 14 days, allowing her dogs to become familiar with the puppy’s scent and limited contact through the security screen door. After the first 2 weeks and once her dogs had little interest in the puppy, she did a fully supervised introduction in the yard with one dog at a time. She went slowly and after about one month, all 3 dogs were happily co existing.

Justine and her 2 working dogs

Justine had an aged Pug who recently lost her other Pug mate to old age. She decided to get a working dog puppy — a female Kelpie mix to keep the pug company. The puppy played roughly with the old Pug, dragging her by the cheeks and generally making the pugs life stressful. Not a good mix of breeds or play styles. After the death of the pug from aged related health issues, Justine decided to get a second working breed — a male short coated Border Collie mix. This male was 10 weeks old and was reared on a farm with little to no socialisation outside of his puppy pen. Justine brought the puppy home and placed it in the yard with her female Kelpie. The female was a little tense and stressed (growling, limited playing, protective of resources) at the new addition for about 3 weeks but then both settled in and are now the best of friends, playing and resting together. This combination of working dogs was far better than the combination of aged Pug and kelpie mix puppy. In this situation, a younger Pug may have coped much better with the puppy.

Sue and her female Cattle mix

Sue and Pete had a female Cattle Dog mix pound puppy who developed noise and thunderstorm phobia by 2 years of age. This female was a food guarder against other dogs. She aggressively guarded the kitchen drawer (where her treats were kept) from any other dog. She also had some dog to dog issues at the dog park which they thought was as a result of being attacked by dogs when she was a puppy. Her bite inhibition was not good. She had punctured other dogs in the past while protecting her resources. When the female was 3 years of age, they decided it was time to get a second dog. They went back to the pound and brought home a young male Boxer. The female played with the male in the yard but when entering the house, the female attacked the male and a fight ensued. The owners were shocked and returned the male. A year later they tried again with a female Maltese mix. The introductions went much smoother and all was going well for the first 6 months but then fairly serious fighting began to occur over toys, food and sleeping spots. One day when the owners had tied the females to a pole while they stepped into a shop, a sudden noise frightened the noise phobic dog. Unable to flee she redirected and she attacked the Maltese — causing several punctures and a fractured hind leg. The owners decided to rehome the Maltese and decided not to attempt any further introductions.

Louise and her Siberians

Louise had a male desexed Siberian Husky who had been a dog park visitor since 16 weeks of age. A well socialised dog with a soft mouth. He has been exposed to a huge variety of breeds and was particularly good with small breed dogs. At 6 years of age, Louise decided it was time to add another Siberian to the home. A male puppy was chosen since most of this Siberians dog park friends were desexed males. A series of introductions were set up. Louise visited the puppy once a week from 3 weeks of age taking a scented item home from the puppy to her dog and vice versa. At 6 weeks of age, while at the breeders’ home, the puppy showed signs of guarding food from people and also fear of men. At 7 weeks, the puppy snarled when he met Louise’s Siberian and showed signs of body tension in his presence. Louise saw all these signs but was too emotionally invested and thought that training and socialisation would rectify the problems. Louise’s home was set up with crates, baby gates, DAP, ‘Through a Dogs Ear’ music and had Rescue Remedy in the dogs’ drinking water. Once home, the puppy seemed to relax with the older male dog but the older male appeared stressed and went off his food for several days and stopped toileting in the yard where the puppy was toileting. The puppy was put through a socialisation program, body handling program and food bowl exercises. Within 3 weeks, he had bitten two different men when they attempted to pat him (one was the puppy class assistant) and the relationship between the pup and older dog had deteriorated with the puppy now threatening and snapping at the older dog. The puppy had a behavioural assessment done and was returned to the breeder as an unsuitable pet for this particular home. Three months later, Louise embarked on a new introduction of a male Shetland Sheepdog puppy to the Siberian, following the same procedure as before. This time, Louise was prepared to walk away if any warning signs were seen. The introduction was a success and the dogs lived and played together peacefully and happily.

In summary — take home messages

  • Think carefully about the impact an additional dog will have.
  • Study your dog/s preferences and play style so you can find a compatible dog.
  • Decide in advance what age, sex, breed or crossbreed you want so you don’t take the wrong dog home — no matter how cute they are!
  • Know each dog’s socialisation history, bite inhibition and fight-bite ratio so you know what to expect OR can make an informed decision on whether to proceed.
  • Locate an experienced dog behavioural trainer and develop an introduction plan before you get the new dog.
  • Assess the new puppy or dog for a couple of hours - leave emotions at the door.
  • Plan the introductions to encompass as many days as possible — take it slowly.
  • Take 3 or more weeks off work to conduct the introductions and also supervise the dogs once in your home.
  • For all introductions, use a light happy voice, be calm, keep leads loose and always end the introduction on a positive note (even if they have a fight, wait if safe to do so for a calming behaviour from the dogs before leaving).
  • Find some neutral territory to begin the introductions.
  • Give dogs time to calm down and feel relaxed — stress affects the outcome.
  • Begin doing crossovers of scent — keep dogs out of each other’s sight at this stage.
  • If both dogs are well socialised and used to regularly meeting unfamiliar dogs — begin off lead introductions. These dogs may not need to complete the on lead introductions. For all other dogs, begin with on lead introductions first and progress to off lead.
  • Begin with parallel walking for the ‘on lead’ introduction- start far apart and slowly move closer. Keep both dogs under threshold — i.e. not reacting to the other except mild interest at every step.
  • Next — start dog passing dog using curving to help keep the dogs calm.
  • Finally — walk dogs side by side — just like going for a walk with a friend.
  • When you take the dogs home — remove all resources, provide separate drinking, feeding and resting areas. Have the facilities to be able to separate dogs via baby gates, crates etc.
  • Use canine calming music and Rescue Remedy/ homeopathy and or flower essences to assist creating a feeling of relaxation in the home. The addition of ADAPTIL spray, diffuser and collars will assist to keep the stress levels of the dogs low during the entire introduction procedure and for several months after the dogs are at home.
  • Introduce toys, treats etc., slowly — starting with low value ones to prevent guarding and fights.
  • Implement the home alone program to allow the new dog used to being with you and also to slowly get used to the dogs being left home alone together
  • Know when to abandon and or rehome if it just isn’t working.

Resources

Dog behavioural trainers (Australia only)

Delta Society of Australia —
www.deltasocietyaustralia.com.au

APDT Australia Inc. (Association of Pet Dog Trainers)
www.apdt.com.au

Products

ADAPTIL — Dog Appeasing Pheromone (previusly known as D.A.P) — can be bought through veterinarians and veterinary/pet product suppliers. Comes as a diffuser, spray and collar. Read manufacturer’s instructions for the use of each product. Each collar lasts for one month. Use of the collar for 3 months will give the best results.

Through a dog’s ear — Bio acoustic music to calm dogs
www.throughadogsear.com

Rescue Remedy — Bach Flower essences
www.rescueremedy.com/pets

Flower essences and homeopathy — an animal naturopath can supply your dogs with an individually tailored combination of homeopathy and/or essences to achieve the best results based on each dogs needs and temperament.

Recommended Reading

Bennett, R and Briggs, S (2008)
Off Leash Dog Play
— A complete guide to safety and fun. Dream dog Productions.

Donaldson.J. (2005)
The Culture Clash
. James and Kenneth Publishers

Dunbar, I (2004)
Before and After You Get Your Puppy
James and Kenneth publishers. This book combines the two volumes of ‘Before you get your puppy’ AND ‘After you get your puppy’ which can be bought separately, alternatively free downloads of the separate volumes are available from
www.dogstardaily.com

London, K. & McConnell, P. (2008)
Feeling Outnumbered? How to Manage and Enjoy Your Multidog Household.
2
nd
Ed. McConnell Publishing Ltd.

McMullen, D. (2010)
How Many Dogs? Using Positive Reinforcement Training to Manage a Multiple Dog Household.
Tanacacia Press

Rugaas, T. (2006)
On Talking Terms with Dogs: Calming Signals
. Dogwise Publishing

Scholz, M. & von Reinhardt, M. (2007)
Stress in Dogs. Learn How Dogs Show Stress and What You Can Do To Help.
Dogwise Publishing.

DVD

The Language of Dogs - Understanding Canine Body Language and other Communication Signals
(2006) DVD - Sarah Kalnajs, Dogwise Publishing

Information

American Veterinary Society of Animal Behaviour — Position statements on Dominance Theory, Punishment and Puppy Socialisation
www.avsabonline.org

Appendix A

i) Introducing a puppy to an adult or juvenile dog

ii) Introducing adults or juvenile dogs — On lead

iii) Introducing adults or juvenile dogs — Off lead

iv) Introducing multiple dogs to a puppy

v) Introducing multiple dogs to a juvenile/dog- on lead

vi) Introducing multiple dogs to a juvenile/dog -off lead

Use these handy reference tables for your dog to dog introductions. You can photocopy the introduction procedure and tick off each step or stage that you have completed.

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