Authors: Andrew Hicks
Jinda and Goong disappeared behind the bar and chatted to the boy over a pile of CDs, and as the powerful sound erupted from loudspeakers in the trees, they started dancing on a small concrete space next to the bar. The Lao songs from Isaan were their favourites and had them both leaping wildly. When Jinda came and dragged Fon onto the floor, they danced together, leaving Ben watching from the table. For a moment he felt an irrelevance; the music was unfamiliar and he was worried about looking ridiculous on the dancefloor. But he was given little chance to be a wallflower as Fon came back to the table and grabbed him firmly by the hand. Willingly he followed, and, like a maniac, he danced as he had never danced before. He had never enjoyed dancing so much, but best of all was watching Fon. She was an elegant and graceful dancer, but so very sexy at the same time. He could not take his eyes off her as she danced in borrowed brown shorts and flip flops, her hair pinned up with an old biro, taking a brief and joyful respite from the weight of her family responsibilities.
As they danced, the bar was theirs alone. The three girls chose a variety of CDs; Thai pop, sixties and seventies, rock, the whole range of western music. Ben in his tidy shirt and cotton trousers was soon soaked through with sweat. It was totally intoxicating, with Fon dancing like a angel. They danced on into the night and it seemed to him that their orgy of energy and sound never need stop. But then without warning they were plunged into total darkness as the sound of music gave way to the sound of silence; the bar's generator had given out. The girls all shrieked with surprise as they bumped into things in the darkness, loudly laughing and joking. There was to be no more dancing at the Diamond Bar that night.
âCan you ride motorbike?' Fon asked Ben.
âNot very well. Why?'
âThen we walk.'
âWalk where?'
âMeridian,' she said without explaining.
The three girls picked their way out of the Diamond Bar in the darkness and went back in the direction of the coast path, Ben following on behind. They soon came to a steep headland which formed the end of a bay. With Fon in the lead, they picked their way through the huts and started to climb almost vertically upwards into the forest. Under the canopy of trees it was impossibly dark. The path, if there was one at all, was rough and rocky, criss-crossed with eroded tree roots as hazardous as tripwires.
They reached level ground at the top of the cliff, the path coming out of the trees into low scrub. Walking was now easier as the clouds had cleared and the moon was sailing white and enormous over the sea. Ben could see the dark spine of the island, the sea shining in the moonlight and a distant view of surf breaking on sand. Stumbling along at the back of the line, trying to see where to put his feet and to keep up with the others, wanting to look at the view and listening to the sounds of the surf and the insects of the night, he thought he must be dreaming. But the best bit of the dream was there in front of him, confidently leading the three of them over the rocky ground in her flip flops and brown shorts.
At the end of the headland the path dropped down again to the water's edge and from there they walked on squeaky sand from beach to beach. Up ahead were the tables and chairs of a bar set up on the sand, the table lamps winking in the dark. One beach followed another, one lotus eaters' paradise improved upon by the next.
Finally they climbed a flight of stairs almost lost in the trees and reached a bar full of people and palm trees and pulsating with music. This was the Meridian, the prime place to dance and be seen on Koh Samet. Much larger than the Diamond, it was alive with travellers and backpackers, a great scene, a cool place to hang out. Ben was entranced.
Fon chose a table where they could look out over the sea and they all sat down. Ben went to the bar and bought colas for the girls and beer for himself. It was still drinking time and nobody was yet dancing.
âYou like?
Sanuk dee mai?'
asked Fon.
âYes, it's wonderful. I think I've gone to heaven,' said Ben.
âHeaven? Okay, I come too ⦠see you next life,' she said joyfully.
The music was too loud to talk easily so Ben sat and exchanged smiles across the table with her and watched her eyes sparkling with laughter and lightness. He could not begin to fathom what she felt about their relationship, if indeed there even was one.
âCome, Jinda,' said Fon, âDancing!' Fon got up and made for the dance floor, followed by Goong and Jinda. This time Ben did not hesitate and went with them. He watched the girls dancing, ignoring him totally, but then they casually took him into their circle and they all danced together.
Ben enjoyed himself more at the Meridian than he ever had at university or in some dingy Brighton club. This was the place to be, by the sea and in the open air, with people from all over the world mixing easily, enjoying freedom and warmth. He was with the ones he liked the best, these children of Isaan with their innocent sense of fun, joyfully embracing the global culture of music and dance. And he was with Fon, without whom he felt edgy, agitated, incomplete and in whose company he now felt total euphoria.
The music pounded and provoked, each new track providing fresh vigour. The evening seemed to go on forever, a night of great music, a natural high free of artificial stimulants. Ben was now on iced water as he was sweating profusely, and even the three Thais who usually seemed so cool, were now more than glowing.
He did not want it ever to stop, but it was getting late and as the bar would soon close, he wanted a final dance with Fon. She let him dance with her for a few moments, smiling up at him, then turned away and mixed with the others on the crowded dance floor. Perhaps it was too public for them to be seen as a couple, Ben guessed, though he did not really understand what was going on.
When a slow track came on that none of them liked, they all returned to the table to recover. Fon looked at her watch and pronounced it time to go.
âBar close in ten minutes. Can walk back okay, Ben?'
âYeah, suppose so. What's the alternative?'
âSorngthaew.'
âYou mean a pick-up? How much is it?'
âMaybe 400 baht.'
âOkay, no problem, I'll pay. Let's get a
sorngthaew,'
he said without hesitation.
Leaving behind the noise of the Meridian, they wandered out into the quiet of the night and walked for a few moments. Just up the track was a battered pick-up truck with no bumpers and missing one of its front wings. Fon went over and Ben could see her talking to the driver, who had been asleep in the cab. They all climbed into the open back of the pick-up and sat down on the hard, narrow seats on each side, Fon getting in first, followed by Ben who sat immediately behind her. The track was dusty and rough with steep rocky patches. The moon illuminated the way ahead, the vehicle pitching and bucking on its hard suspension as it plunged into the potholes, still muddy at the bottom even though it was well into the dry season.
Ben found it hard work clinging on as they were bounced around against the sides of the truck, so he held onto a steel hoop just in front of Fon to steady himself. Without a word, she then leaned back and nestled herself into the crook of his arm. Holding on firmly, he cushioned her from the battering, cradling her body against his, their contact natural and easy. She remained silent, no longer chatting or joking, the high mood of the evening now over, though for Ben it was a rare moment of closeness and intimacy.
When the pick-up pulled into the track behind the beach at Ao Sapporot, they all got down and Ben paid the driver. Goong disappeared into the darkness with no pause for goodbyes and he, Jinda and Fon walked back along the beach together. At the usual place by the fallen tree, he knew that Fon and Jinda would turn inland and go back to their hut without him. Now should be the time for a warm parting from Fon, perhaps a kiss, but he knew that was not how it was going to be.
âReally great evening, Fon. Thanks,' he said. Fon looked at him and smiled and without a word turned and walked away into the trees with Jinda.
Ben felt as if his heart had been cut out and cast into the sea. The exhaustion was beginning to come over him as he went back to his grubby little hut. It had been a great day with Fon; taking the boat into Ban Phe that morning, eating with her in the evening and finally and best, the dancing; a day in which all his expectations had been aroused. But now it was over. Even after showering, he was hot and uncomfortable and had difficulty falling asleep.
15
When Ben awoke during the night with a pounding head and raging thirst, thoughts of Fon immediately filled his hazy brain. As he tried to escape into oblivion, he could see her smiling face, he could hear her voice teasing and arousing him. It was pleasurable, tantalising, sweet and sad.
Disturbed by the cockerels at first light, Fon again came to him, but as he lay sprawled on the bed in the sticky dampness of the morning, he realised he was missing Emma. Their relationship had been so comfortable and familiar that it was hard to be apart from her. In just a few days on the twenty fifth, they would share a luxury room at the Regal in Bangkok and he was looking forward to it, though confusingly, he also wanted Fon.
When he dragged himself out of bed, he felt lethargic and low. Standing on the bare concrete floor of the wash room, he contemplated the cracked ceramic of the squat loo as he poured scoops of cold water over his head. Squatting down he could feel the tightness in his legs from the walking and dancing the previous evening, which now already seemed an age ago.
At breakfast he realised that from where he was sitting, he would see Fon as she came down to the beach to start work; she always arrived at about eight thirty to walk up and down offering massage and manicure to the first of the tourists to claim their deckchairs and loungers. So when he had finished eating, he decided to stay at his table in the hope of seeing her. To pass the time, he went over to the shelf of paperbacks and picked up a copy of “Trainspotting” which he recognised from the movie still on the cover. He stared at the title page but the book was not “Trainspotting” but “Togtitting”. âNorwegian or something,' he muttered to himself.
Then everything began to happen at once. Maca and Chuck came into the bar to order breakfast and joined him just at the very moment he saw Fon walk by on the sand only fifty yards from him. Though he was sitting exactly where she might expect him to be at this time of the morning, she did not even turn her head to see if he was there.
âHow y'doin' Ben, me old mate?' said Maca. âHardly ever see you around these days.'
Ben could see that Fon was now talking to a middle-aged man and pointing out a place for a massage. âHaving a great time,' he said. âBan Phe yesterday and boogying last night.'
âGo on your own?'
âNo, went with Fon.'
âGoodoh! I should've guessed,' said Maca.
Ben watched Fon as she spread out her sheet and started the massage.
âYou two been busy then?' he asked, now glad of someone to talk to.
âSnorkelling, chilling out and stuff,' said Maca. âSo when are you thinking of moving on, Ben?'
âGo to Bangkok on the twenty fifth, then maybe back here. Not sure yet.'
âWatch this space!' said Maca with a wider than usual grin.
As Ben now knew where Fon would be for the next hour, he went up to his room to wash a few clothes. When he returned to the beach she had just finished the massage and had been joined by the two middle-aged masseuses and the little old lady who sold
som tam.
Looking amazingly fresh and well-slept despite the late night, she saw him coming and called him over.
âCome, Ben, sit. You want
som tam?'
teased Fon.
âLike a hole in the head.'
âToo much
bia Chang
last night?'
Ben was now feeling much more at ease with Fon's friends as they chatted noisily around him. Fon explained to Ben what they were laughing about.
âGop and Pornpun want to throw their husband, marry old
farang
⦠as old as possible.'
âWhy old?' asked Ben.
âOld
farang
soon die ⦠get his money quick! Everyone want to marry
farang.
Everyone except me!'
As they were talking, a middle-aged Thai lady, neatly dressed in a blouse and long skirt as if for town, came up to them in an unhurried way, greeted them and sat down on the edge of Fon's blue sheet. There was a long conversation in Thai, none of which Ben understood. She then took out a set of Tarot cards and put them down in a pile while they gathered round her in a circle. After they had all contributed twenty baht, she began her Tarot routine. Ben had not seen this done before and could not follow what was going on.
Placing the cards one by one face up on the sheet, she scribbled elaborate mathematical calculations on a notepad and slowly and deliberately read each of their palms. When it came to Fon's turn, Fon solemnly sat and waited. There was a definite stir in the group when the Tarot lady made her pronouncements, Ben sensing sidelong glances in his direction. After the last palm had been read, she gathered her cards together and slowly departed.
âWhat did she say about you, Fon?' asked Ben expectantly.
âShe say there's a man from far away who loves me. Soon I go long journey ⦠go Europe.' This time there was no laughter and Ben was not quite sure how to respond.
âHow did she know?' he asked.
âShe not blind, Ben ⦠you follow me like dog!' she said. âWould you like to come to England then?'
âYes, I like. Everyone go aeroplane, have holiday. But England cold and no
som tam
⦠so Thailand better.'
Ben too knew that taking her to England was an improbable dream so he would have to seize the day right here on Koh Samet.
âOkay, can I have a massage then?' he asked.