Southern Comfort (2 page)

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Authors: Allison Vines-Rushing

BOOK: Southern Comfort
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Upon returning to Abita Springs, we hadn’t a clue what would be waiting for us. We had given friends in town who did not evacuate the key to the restaurant in case the worst happened. They had cleaned out the walk-in cooler of food to sustain themselves and their neighbors for the week, so thankfully we didn’t have to deal with rotten, moldy food. We found that most of the trees on the property had fallen, and the cottage we were living in was in very bad shape. The restaurant building, however, looked mostly unscathed. The energy company was there to turn back on the electricity, so we began cleaning up. Longbranch quietly opened one week later.

For dinner, we served the same food that garnered us attention at Jack’s. Our Sunday brunches were an instant success, and we even had a two-piece jazz band come play. (They had lost their steady gig at Commander’s Palace in New Orleans, which had not yet reopened after the storm.) We hoped what we were offering at Longbranch would give our recently scarred customers a momentary escape away from it all. But a fine dining restaurant with no history in the area and very high overhead eventually got the better of us. We closed the doors after a turbulent year-and-a-half-long run.

Before we closed Longbranch, a customer, Frank Zumbo, asked if we would be interested in opening a restaurant in a Marriott hotel in New Orleans. MiLa—named for our respective home states, Mississippi and Louisiana—was born in November of 2007 in the
Renaissance Pere Marquette. We are still serving our Southern-flecked cuisine, although the menu is considerably bigger than that first menu at Jack’s (which had one entrée and one dessert). The dishes we created back then, such as
Oysters Rockefeller “Deconstructed”
and
New Orleans–Style Barbecue Lobster
, have traveled with us from Jack’s to Longbranch, then to MiLa, and now to this book. For simplicity’s sake, in the book we have broken down a lot of the dishes we serve at the restaurant into separate components. We’ve also sprinkled some favorite childhood recipes in between. We hope the food in this book represents who we are, where we are from, and the places we have been.

Five years after opening MiLa, life is sweet again. We have four beautiful bloodhounds, an old fishing boat with lots of character, a home where we can lay down some roots, and a brand new baby girl. The delicate balance of work and play has become a reality. And the food tastes better, too.

BREAKFAST AND BREADS
T
HE MEAL
S
LADE AND
I
most cherish is breakfast. In our business, lunch and dinner are working hours, making mornings our one-on-one time. It is a bonus that it is the mealtime that serves up our most favorite foods: eggs over easy for me, cheese grits for Slade, griddled ham, pecan waffles, biscuits with mayhaw jelly for both of us. Sure, here and there we have to settle for a bowl of cereal, but it just makes the warm breakfasts we get to linger over that much more special.
Breakfast is so special, in fact, that we incorporated our favorite meal into our wedding vows. We wrote our own the night before our wedding in our last-minute style, and I am a bit ashamed to admit that “I promise to make you breakfast every other Sunday” is the only one that I remember eight years later. Of course, love, honor, cherish, and all that good stuff must have been in there too, but those words did not elicit the robust belly laughs from our small audience that our breakfast vow did. It brightened our afternoon ceremony just like the morning sunshine.
NEW ORLEANS–STYLE GRITS AND GRILLADES
S
ERVES
4
Gerard’s Downtown, a New Orleans restaurant that closed shortly after 9/11, was the most influential restaurant in our lives. Not only did we meet and fall in love while working there, the chef-owner Gerard Maras, who was really ahead of his time, was the kind of chef we both wanted to become. His simple, refined touch elevated Creole cuisine and his farm-to-table approach gave birth to the new guard of chefs in New Orleans.
When we opened Longbranch after Katrina in September of 2005, Gerard offered his help in getting our restaurant up and running. Cooks were impossible to find and when you did find them, their salary demands were storm-inflated. The two of us, Gerard, and one other cook, Trey Helmka, comprised our opening kitchen staff. This man, who taught us so much, was beside us on the line, and the comfort of his presence in the kitchen was priceless. How ironic that at Sunday brunches at Longbranch he was cooking our version of Grits and Grillades, a country pork stew we learned to cook from him. Here is a simplified version using pork tenderloin.

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