Southern Comfort (17 page)

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Authors: Allison Vines-Rushing

BOOK: Southern Comfort
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Roasted Okra with Chili Oil

ROASTED OKRA WITH CHILI OIL
S
ERVES
4
Okra is a beloved vegetable to some, but its slimy texture in soups and stews is not for everyone’s palate. At the restaurant, we like to roast it whole alongside lamb in the rendered fat until it is crispy. Drizzling it with olive oil and roasting it in the oven yields an equally crispy, non-slimy result.

1 pound okra
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup
chili oil
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Toss together the okra, salt, pepper, and chili oil in a bowl. Spread out evenly on a baking sheet and roast in the oven until evenly browned, about 15 minutes.
Serve hot and crispy.
BUTTER-GLAZED GREEN CABBAGE
S
ERVES
4
Slade and I both grew up eating cabbage cooked soul-food fashion—stewed all day with lots of onion, ham hock, and water. A bowl of this soupy soft cabbage with cornbread for sopping was a meal in itself. Instead of cooking ours all day, we blanch the individual leaves quickly and glaze them in a silky butter sauce. There is something magical about this simple combination of earthy cabbage, sweet butter, and salt. It shines as a side dish for chicken or pork chops and is a must with black-eyed peas for New Year’s Day.

1 head green cabbage
1 cup unsalted butter, cut in ½-inch cubes
2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives
In a large saucepot, bring 4 quarts water with 2 tablespoons salt to a boil over high heat.
Fill a bowl with ice water and have nearby. Core and quarter the cabbage head. Separate the individual layers and discard any bruised outer leaves. Once the water reaches a boil, submerge all of the cabbage leaves in the water, stirring occasionally to ensure even cooking. Blanch the leaves until tender to the tooth, but still slightly firm, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer all the leaves to the ice water bath to cool. Reserve ½ cup of the cabbage blanching water and discard the rest. Once the cabbage is cool, remove from the ice bath and dry thoroughly in between layers of paper towels.
Place a large sauté pan over medium-low heat and add the reserved cabbage blanching liquid to the pan. Carefully whisk in the butter, piece by piece, until a creamy butter sauce is formed. Add the cabbage to the pan and rewarm, coating completely with sauce.
Sprinkle the cabbage with the chives and serve.
CELERY ROOT PUREE
M
AKES
4
CUPS
Celery root, or celeriac, is a lovely celery-scented root vegetable. Traditionally prepared cold in a creamy rémoulade sauce, it also makes a surprisingly versatile hot dish. It is a great, low-carb replacement for mashed potatoes that goes well with seafood, chicken, or pork. You can also thin out this puree with vegetable stock for a silky soup and garnish it with a spicy mustard oil.

2 celery roots, peeled and cut into 1-inch dice
8 cloves garlic
4 cups whole milk
¼ cup unsalted butter
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon ground white pepper
Combine the celery root, garlic, and milk in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cook until the celery root can be mashed easily between two fingers, about 25 minutes. Drain through a sieve, reserving 1 cup of the hot milk.
Combine the cooked celery root and garlic in a blender with the reseved milk, butter, salt, and white pepper and puree until silky smooth. Before turning on the machine, be sure the lid is tightly secured and covered with a towel to prevent the hot mixture from escaping.
Serve right away.

Oyster–Swiss Chard Gratin with Country Bacon

OYSTER–SWISS CHARD GRATIN WITH COUNTRY BACON
S
ERVES
8
Swiss chard is a winter green that is in season just as oysters are at their peak. As the weather cools, the chard gets sweeter and the oysters get saltier, achieving a beautiful balance of earth and sea when together in the same bite. We use big, sweet Louisiana oysters, but any oyster will do.

3 thick slices smoky bacon, cut into small dice
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 small onion, minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 bunches Swiss chard, stemmed, leaves chopped into ½-inch dice
2 cups heavy cream
⅛ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
18 oysters, freshly shucked, patted dry, and coarsely chopped
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1 cup fresh bread crumbs
Preheat the oven to 400°F.
Brown the bacon in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the butter, onion, garlic, and Swiss chard and sauté until the chard is completely wilted. Remove from the heat. Pour the mixture into a colander set in the sink and squeeze out all excess liquid. Reserve.
Return the pan to the stove and add the cream and nutmeg. Bring to a boil over high heat, then decrease the heat to medium-low so the cream does not boil over. Cook the cream until it reduces to 1 cup. Set aside to cool.
In a bowl, combine the chard mixture, cooled cream, and oysters. Mix well and season with salt and pepper. Spoon the mixture into a 3-quart gratin dish. Using the back of a spoon, spread the mixture evenly. In a small bowl, mix together the Parmesan cheese and bread crumbs and sprinkle the topping evenly over the gratin.
Bake until the mixture is bubbling around the sides and the crust is lightly golden brown, about 12 minutes.
Remove from the oven and let cool slightly before serving.
SAUTÉ-STEAMED BABY BOK CHOY
S
ERVES
4
Sauté-steaming is a technique I learned in the kitchen of Ducasse, as the majority of my time there was spent cleaning and cooking vegetables. What I love about this technique is how fast it steams the vegetables after you add the water to the hot pan, and how it also adds a touch of flavor with the oil and garlic that you would not get with basic steaming. Feel free to substitute just about anything—broccoli, cauliflower, squash, turnips, carrots, or sweet potatoes. You can cook almost any vegetable this way, except for something with a thick fibrous skin, such as green beans. To ensure fast, even cooking, don’t overcrowd the pan.

4 heads baby bok choy
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
6 cloves garlic, crushed
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons water
Trim off the outside leaves of the bok choy and any discolored parts on the bottom stem. Halve the bok choy and soak the halves in cold water for 5 minutes to remove any dirt. Transfer the bok choy to paper towels to dry.
Heat a large sauté pan with a tight-fitting lid over high heat. Once it is hot, add the oil and the garlic and sauté the garlic for 30 seconds, letting it brown slightly and become fragrant. Add the bok choy and season with the salt and pepper. Add the 2 tablespoons water and quickly cover with the lid, decrease the heat to low, and steam for 1 minute.
Remove from the heat and serve immediately.
TURNIPS, BOULANGERIE STYLE
S
ERVES
6
The boulangerie style of cooking potatoes was classically done in a large oven under roasting chickens so the drippings from the birds fell on the potatoes, giving them a rich, caramelized coating. We love to roast sweet and earthy turnips in chicken fat when we are roasting a chicken at home. This presentation is a bit more elegant, all layered and glazed but with the same complementary flavors, and looks lovely on the table. If you want to omit the bacon and have olive oil (or even better, chicken fat in the fridge) to cook the shallots, please by all means substitute.

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