Southern California Cooking from the Cottage (14 page)

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Authors: Jane Stern

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For several years after it was a private home, the Columbine Cottage housed the Village Pet Shop, which was known for a talking parrot who greeted customers from his perch on the patio. John and Laura Wolfe are not entirely thrilled with those old-timers who come to the restaurant and remind them that this is where they used to buy their dog food. “I tell them we got rid of the bird seed last week,” Laura jokes.

The pet shop was succeeded by an Austrian pastry shop, and in the 1980s it became a breakfast-and-lunch café known as the Cottage. It was then that the ceilings were raised and windows and skylights added. While there can be no question that in many ways the Columbine has changed dramatically from the way it was one hundred years ago, it remains true in spirit to its original bungalow ideals: cozy and comfortable, simple yet stylish.

SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA CLUB

T
he avocado in this recipe really makes it a Southern California sandwich. When selecting your avocados, try to get the Hass avocados. They are the best for flavor and texture.

8 slices bacon

½ cup mayonnaise

12 slices whole wheat bread, toasted

12 slices smoked turkey

4 slices Cheddar cheese

1 ripe avocado, sliced

2 large tomatoes, sliced

4 lettuce leaves

In a medium sauté pan cook the bacon until crisp. Drain on a paper towel. Spread the mayonnaise on one side of each slice of bread. To assemble each sandwich, layer 3 slices of turkey on each of 4 slices of bread. Add a slice of Cheddar cheese and top with another slice of bread. On top of that, lay the bacon, avocado, tomato, and lettuce in that order. Top with 1 more slice of bread. Cut into triangles. Serve with potato salad, coleslaw, or pasta salad.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

FIRE-GRILLED SWORDFISH CLUB

W
e only recently added fire-grilled swordfish to the menu, discovering that customers especially like it in the summer. It is an easy recipe for the grill.

4 (6-ounce) swordfish fillets

Olive oil

1 tablespoon lemon pepper

12 slices bacon

½ cup Homemade Tartar Sauce (page 125)

8 thick slices sourdough bread, toasted

4 lettuce leaves

2 large tomatoes, sliced

Heat the grill or griddle to high. Brush the swordfish heavily with olive oil to prevent sticking. Sprinkle both sides of the swordfish with the lemon pepper. Grill the swordfish until done, 4 to 12 minutes depending on size, turning once. Be careful not to overcook. Set aside and keep warm.

In a medium sauté pan cook the bacon until crispy. Set aside on paper towel to drain. Spread 1 tablespoon tartar sauce on each slice of bread. Top 4 slices of the bread with the lettuce, tomato slices, swordfish, and bacon. Top with the remaining slices of bread. Slice on the diagonal. Serve with coleslaw.

MAKES 4 SANDWICHES

EGGPLANT PANINI

L
ike so many customers, I relish the combination of pesto and eggplant in this sandwich. It's best if you can use fresh mozzarella and just-baked focaccia.

1 medium eggplant

2 eggs, beaten

1 cup Italian breadcrumbs

1 cup plus 3 tablespoons plus 1 tablespoon olive oil

1 yellow bell pepper, cut into rings

1 red bell pepper, cut into rings

1 red onion, cut into rings

4 pieces focaccia

½ cup Cottage Basil Pesto (page 120)

4 slices mozzarella cheese

Slice the eggplant into thin slices. Dip the slices into the eggs and dredge in the breadcrumbs. In a large sauté pan heat 1 cup of the olive oil over medium-high heat. When the oil is sizzling hot, gently place the eggplant slices in the pan so that they are not touching, and fry, being careful not to splatter the oil. Cook on both sides for about 3 minutes or until golden brown. Drain on a paper towel. Repeat the process until all the eggplant slices are fried. This can be done ahead of time and kept in the refrigerator until you are ready to assemble the sandwich.

Heat 3 tablespoons of the olive oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. Saute the peppers and onion until soft. For each sandwich, slice the focaccia in half horizontally. Drizzle the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil on the open or cut side of the bread. Grill or broil both sides of the bread until toasted. On the bottom slice, spread the pesto dressing. Top with the eggplant, peppers, onion, and a slice of mozzarella. Broil until the cheese is melted. Top with the remaining bread slices and slice diagonally to serve.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

FOCACCIA CHICKEN SANDWICH

H
ere is a sandwich loved by everyone: old and young, men and women, locals and visitors.

It is hearty, and we serve it all year long.

1
cups chopped tomatoes

¼ cup chopped fresh basil

¼ teaspoon chopped garlic

2 tablespoons plus 1 tablespoon olive oil

¼ teaspoon dried oregano

Pinch of black pepper

4 (6-ounce) skinless, boneless chicken breasts

½ cup mayonnaise

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

4 pieces focaccia

4 slices mozzarella cheese

1 avocado, sliced

Heat the grill to medium-high. In a medium bowl combine the tomatoes, basil, garlic, 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, oregano, and pepper. Set aside at room temperature for at least 1 hour. Brush the chicken breasts with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil and grill until the juices run clear and the chicken is no longer pink in the center, turning only once. In a small bowl combine the mayonnaise with the vinegar. Slice each piece of focaccia in half horizontally. Toast the cut sides lightly. Spread each half with the balsamic mayonnaise. Place the chicken on the bottom half of the bread and add a slice of cheese. Scoop the tomato mixture on top of the cheese. Top with the slices of avocado and the remaining bread slices. Serve with pasta salad.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Note:
You might want to use long frilly toothpicks to help keep the sandwich together while serving.

SAN DIEGO'S “BEST” TUNA MELT

S
o many customers said this was the best tuna melt they had ever had, and we finally had to rename it accordingly. Its key ingredient is the sourdough Parmesan bread.

4 tablespoons butter, softened

8 tablespoons shredded Parmesan cheese

8 slices bacon

4 tablespoons mayonnaise

8 slices sourdough bread

2
cups prepared tuna fish

8 slices Cheddar cheese

2 large tomatoes, sliced

Combine the butter and Parmesan cheese in a small bowl. Spread on one side of each slice of bread. Grill or broil for 2 minutes or until toasted and golden brown. In a medium sauté pan cook the bacon until crisp. Spread the mayonnaise lightly on each of the non-toasted sides of the bread. Scoop
cup of the tuna fish on each piece of bread. Place 2 slices of bacon on 4 of the slices of bread. Place a slice of cheese on the remaining 4 slices of bread. Broil all 8 slices until the cheese is melted. Place the tomato slices on the 4 slices without the bacon. We like to serve this sandwich open face.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

SANTA FE FIRE-GRILLED CHICKEN
SANDWICH

S
anta Fe Sauce brings welcome heat to a dish that I consider a combination of California flavors and Mexican spice. Most of it can be made ahead of time and assembled when ready to serve.

4 (6-ounce) skinless, boneless chicken breasts

4 tablespoons Santa Barbara Spice Rub (page 128)

4 sourdough rolls

8 slices Jack cheese

4 tablespoons Santa Fe Sauce (page 126)

Lettuce

¼ cup thinly sliced red onion

2 Roma tomatoes, sliced

1 cup canned diced chiles (we use Ortega)

Heat the grill to medium-high. Season the chicken breasts with the spice rub. Grill the chicken until the juices run clear and it is no longer pink in the center, turning only once. While the chicken is cooking, slice the rolls in half horizontally. Melt 2 slices of the cheese on the top half of each roll. On each of the bottom halves, spread 2 teaspoons of the Santa Fe Sauce. Top with the lettuce, onion, and tomatoes. Place the chicken on top of the tomato slices. Spread ¼ cup chiles on top of the chicken. Top with the remaining halves of the rolls. We like to serve this with a small green salad and some black beans.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

SANTA BARBARA TRI-TIP SANDWICH

T
ri-tip can be a lot of work, but it is so worth it! It is one of those recipes that I make at home because it is delicious, everyone loves it, and can be made ahead of time. If all the sauces are made in advance, the only thing you have left to do is grill the meat, and the meal is ready.

Aioli:

1½ tablespoons fresh lemon juice

½ cup chopped fresh parsley

2 tablespoons minced fresh garlic

2 teaspoons minced roasted garlic

teaspoon black pepper

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