Soup Night (25 page)

Serves 6–8

This soup pairs fresh asparagus with another seasonal delicacy, freshly shelled peas.

• 1
  ¹
  ⁄
  ₂
  pounds asparagus
  
• 2 tablespoons butter
  
• 3 tablespoons olive oil
  
• 1 minced shallot (about 1 tablespoon)
  
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
  
• ¹
  ⁄
  ₂
  pound fresh garden peas, shelled
  
• 4 small red potatoes, diced
  
• 8 cups chicken broth
  
• Pinch cayenne pepper
  
• Pinch ground nutmeg
  

1. 1.
   Snap off the tough ends of the asparagus spears. Cut the first 2 or 3 inches from about half the spears, and simmer the tips in salted water until crisp-tender; then immediately drain and cover them with ice-cold water. When they are completely cool, drain and set the tips aside for a garnish.
   
2. 2.
   Heat the butter and olive oil in a large soup pot over medium heat and sauté the shallot and garlic until softened, about 4 minutes.
   
3. 3.
   Cut the rest of the asparagus into 1- to 2-inch pieces and add them to the soup pot along with the peas and potatoes. Sauté the vegetables for 2 minutes, until softened.
   
4. 4.
   Add the chicken broth, cayenne, and nutmeg, and bring the soup to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until the vegetables are very tender, about 15 minutes.
   
5. 5.
   Working in batches, transfer the soup to a blender (careful, it’s hot) and purée until smooth. Perfectionists may want to strain the soup through a large sieve, to remove any asparagus “strings.” Return the soup to the pot and heat through.
   
6. 6.
   Garnish each serving with a few reserved asparagus tips and serve hot.
   

Make ahead?
Certainly. Up through step 5. Reheat when ready.

For large crowds:
As much as your budget will permit.

For vegetarians:
Substitute vegetable broth for the chicken.

Recipe from
Albertina’s Restaurant
, Portland, Oregon

Serves 6–8

Chowders don’t necessarily have to include clams; this delicious version takes good advantage of two springtime treats: asparagus and leeks.

• 6 tablespoons butter
  
• ¹
  ⁄
  ₂
  pound mushrooms, sliced
  
• 2 large leeks, trimmed and sliced (see
  page 186
  )
  
• ³
  ⁄
  ₄
  pound fresh asparagus, trimmed and chopped
  
• 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
  
• ¹
  ⁄
  ₂
  teaspoon salt
  
• ¹
  ⁄
  ₈
  teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  
• 2 cups chicken broth
  
• 2 cups half-and-half
  
• 1 (12-ounce) can white whole-kernel corn, undrained
  
• 2 tablespoons chopped pimientos
  

1. 1.
   Melt the butter in a large soup pot over low heat. Add the mushrooms, leeks, and asparagus and cook until almost tender, about 10 minutes.
   
2. 2.
   Sprinkle the flour, salt, and pepper evenly over all the vegetables; sauté for 3 to 4 minutes.
   
3. 3.
   Add the chicken broth gradually, stirring to prevent lumps, and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the half-and-half and heat, stirring constantly, until the soup is hot and bubbly.
   
4. 4.
   Stir in the corn and pimientos and heat through, being careful not to boil. Season to taste with additional salt and pepper, if needed, and serve hot.
   

Make ahead?
Yes; when reheating, be careful not to let soup boil.

For large crowds:
Go ahead and splurge — asparagus season is short.

For vegetarians:
Use vegetable broth rather than chicken.

This member of the onion family, which looks a gigantic scallion, has a mild, almost soft taste that beautifully complements many dishes; it’s especially nice with potatoes and asparagus.

Because of the way they grow underground, leeks often have sand or dirt trapped between the layers, and if you simply slice the whole leek horizontally into rounds (which seems the natural thing to do), the sand will still be there.

There is an easier way to deal with this: First cut the entire leek into two big pieces, right where the green leaves start. Discard most of the green leaves; they’re usually rather tough, especially the nearer you get to the tops. But keep a bit of the lowest edge of the leaves (nearest where you cut), because they have a nice color when cooked. Cut the white part lengthwise into halves (even quarters, if the leek is very fat), and swish them vigorously in a large bowl of water. You may need to do this more than once. Now drain, and proceed to chop, dice, or cut the leeks however you need for your recipe.

Hot chiles need to be handled carefully, because they can burn your skin, especially if you happen to have a small cut on a finger. The “heat” is in the seeds and, even more, in the ribs that attach the seeds to the inner walls. Slice the chile open and remove the seeds and ribs, and then slice or chop the chile flesh as needed. You may prefer to wear gloves, but if you do not, be sure not to rub your eyes or mouth, and wash hands thoroughly afterward.

Serves 6

Pot stickers are small Asian dumplings, half-moon-shaped and stuffed with either a mixture of finely chopped vegetables or a meat and vegetable blend. As an appetizer, they are pan-fried on the flat side until golden brown (sometimes they stick to the pan, hence the name) and served with a soy-sesame-chili dipping sauce. These tidbits are now so popular in Asian restaurants that several brands are available in the frozen food section of most supermarkets. I especially like the ones sold at Trader Joe’s. Here they are used, straight from the package, to add flavor and heft to a delicious soup.

• 4 (15-ounce) cans reduced-sodium chicken broth
  
• 4 garlic cloves, minced
  
• 2 jalapeño chiles, seeded and minced (see
  page 186
  )
  
• 30–35 frozen pot stickers
  
• 3 cups fresh baby spinach or regular spinach, torn into pieces
  
• Hot chili oil (optional)
  

1. 1.
   Simmer the broth, garlic, and jalapeños in a large soup pot over low heat until the peppers are tender, about 5 minutes.
   
2. 2.
   Add the frozen pot stickers (no need to thaw) and simmer for 5 minutes longer.
   
3. 3.
   Add the spinach and simmer until the leaves are just wilted but still bright green.
   
4. 4.
   Serve hot, with chili oil on the table for those who prefer it.
   

Make ahead?
Not really; the pot stickers and the spinach don’t hold up well to long reheating. On the other hand, this comes together very quickly.

For large crowds:
Very easy to make large batches.

For vegetarians:
Use vegetable broth instead of chicken; be sure to choose vegetarian pot stickers.

Serves 6

Diane Mermigas, a second-generation Greek-American in Chicago, grew up loving the delicious aromas and flavors of avgolemono, the classic lemon-chicken Greek soup that she calls “comfort food for all seasons.”

• 2 quarts chicken broth
  
• ¹
  ⁄
  ₂
  cup uncooked long-grain white rice
  
• 2 whole eggs or egg yolks
  
• Juice of 2 medium lemons, strained (about 6 tablespoons)
  
• 2 tablespoons butter
  
• Salt
  

1. 1.
   Bring the broth to a full boil in a large soup pot. Gradually add the rice, stirring constantly until the broth boils again. Reduce the heat, cover, and simmer until the rice is tender, 12 to 14 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat and keep warm.
   
2. 2.
   Prepare the avgolemono sauce: In a mixing bowl, beat the eggs for 2 minutes. Gradually add the lemon juice, continuing to beat.
   
3. 3.
   Add a cup of the hot broth to the egg-lemon mixture, then gradually stir it all into the soup pot, beating steadily until all has been added. Simmer over very low heat (don’t let it boil) until the soup thickens enough to coat a spoon.
   
4. 4.
   Swirl in the butter, taste for salt, and serve immediately, or keep the soup warm in a double boiler over hot water until ready to serve.
   

Make ahead?
Do steps 1 and 2, refrigerate separately.

For large crowds:
Easy and economical to make large batches.

For vegetarians?
Sorry, can’t have avgolemono without chicken.

Serves 6–8

If there’s any reason to complain about lentils, an otherwise noble foodstuff, it’s that their color is a tad boring. Combining them with bright green spinach — a seasonal fresh favorite now available year-round — is a nifty, tasty solution.

• ¹
  ⁄
  ₂
  cup brown lentils, picked over and rinsed (see
  page 121
  )
  
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
  
• 1 medium onion, chopped
  
• 1 celery stalk, chopped
  
• 1 leek, trimmed and chopped (see
  page 186
  )
  
• 1 pound russet potatoes, peeled and diced
  
• 4 cups chicken broth
  
• 8 ounces fresh spinach, chopped
  

1. 1.
   Cover the lentils with water in a saucepan and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat, cover, and simmer until the lentils are tender, about 20 minutes. Drain and set aside.
   
2. 2.
   Heat the olive oil in a large soup pot over medium heat, and sauté the onion, celery, and leek until softened, about 5 minutes.
   
3. 3.
   Add the potatoes and broth, bring to a good strong simmer, and cook until the vegetables are tender and the potatoes have started to fall apart, about 20 minutes.
   
4. 4.
   Add the spinach and cook for 1 to 2 minutes longer.
   
5. 5.
   Working in batches, transfer the soup to a blender (careful, it’s hot) and purée until smooth, then return it to the pot. Or use an immersion blender and purée the soup right in the pot. Stir in the lentils and reheat. Serve hot.
   

Make ahead?
Yes, up through step 3. You want the spinach to retain its beautiful color as much as possible.

For large crowds:
Soup can easily (and economically) be multiplied for a crowd, but try to add the spinach as late as possible. Kept simmering on the stove, it will lose some of its bright color.

For vegetarians?
Absolutely. Just switch out the chicken broth for vegetarian broth.