Sausage Making (16 page)

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Authors: Ryan Farr

BOOK: Sausage Making

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TURKEY, APPLE, AND CAMPARI SAUSAGE

YIELD: 3 LB/1.4 KG

Boneless, skin-on turkey breast, cut into 1-in/2.5-cm cubes

U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1.40 lb
GRAMS: 621
% OF TOTAL (100%): 45.59

Boneless pork shoulder (or a combination of cuts, about 75% lean, 25% fat)

U.S. MEASUREMENT: 0.90 lb
GRAMS: 433
% OF TOTAL (100%): 31.81

Pork back fat, cut into 1-in/2.5-cm cubes

U.S. MEASUREMENT:
¹/
₂cup
GRAMS: 101
% OF TOTAL (100%): 7.42

Apple, cut into
¹/
₄-in/6-mm cubes

U.S. MEASUREMENT:
¹/
₂cup
GRAMS: 76
% OF TOTAL (100%): 5.60

Apple cider

U.S. MEASUREMENT: 2 tbsp
GRAMS: 40
% OF TOTAL (100%): 2.97

Honey

U.S. MEASUREMENT: 2 tbsp
GRAMS: 29
% OF TOTAL (100%): 2.12

Campari

U.S. MEASUREMENT: 2 tbsp
GRAMS: 21
% OF TOTAL (100%): 1.55

Fine sea salt

U.S. MEASUREMENT: 2
¹/
₄tsp
GRAMS: 17
% OF TOTAL (100%): 1.23

Finely chopped fresh peppercress or watercress

U.S. MEASUREMENT:
¹/
₄cup
GRAMS: 12
% OF TOTAL (100%): 0.85

Thinly sliced green onions, both green and white parts

U.S. MEASUREMENT: 2 tbsp
GRAMS: 7
% OF TOTAL (100%): 0.53

Coarsely ground black pepper

U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1
¹/
₂tsp
GRAMS: 3
% OF TOTAL (100%): 0.21

Fresh thyme leaves

U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1
¹/
₂tsp
GRAMS: 2
% OF TOTAL (100%): 0.12

Hog casings, rinsed

Not surprisingly, I first started making this sausage around Thanksgiving, when we had some surplus turkey meat left over from making our annual batch of turduckens. Campari, an herbaceous Italian aperitif, adds a touch of bitterness, countered by cubes of sweet apple. You can use any firm apple for this recipe. While you're grilling the sausages, double-down on the Campari by drinking a Negroni.

Â Â
1.
Place the turkey, pork shoulder, and pork fat on a rimmed baking sheet; transfer to the freezer; and chill until crunchy on the exterior but not frozen solid
(see page 23)
.
Â Â
2.
In a medium bowl, add the apple cubes, apple cider, honey, Campari, salt, peppercress, green onions, black pepper, and thyme and stir to combine.
Â Â
3.
Nest a large mixing bowl in a bowl filled with ice. Grind the turkey, pork, and pork fat through the small die of the grinder into the bowl set in ice
(see page 24)
.
Â Â
4.
Add the apple mixture to the meat and stir with your hands until well incorporated; the mixture will look homogenous and will begin sticking to the bowl
(see page 25)
.
Â Â
5.
Spoon 2 tbsp of the meat mixture into a nonstick frying pan and spread into a thin patty. Cook the test patty over low heat until cooked through but not browned. Taste the sausage for seasoning and adjust as necessary.
Â Â
6.
Press a sheet of parchment paper or plastic wrap directly on the surface of the meat to prevent oxidation, then cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. Alternatively, you can vacuum-seal the farce.
Â Â
7.
Stuff the sausage into the hog casings
(see page 31)
and twist into links
(see page 36)
.
Â Â
8.
Poach the links
(see page 41)
until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center of the sausage registers 155Â°F/68Â°C. The poached sausages can be eaten immediately, or chill fully in an ice bath and refrigerate for up to 2 days (any longer than that and the apple in the sausage starts to break down), or freeze them for longer storage
(see page 46)
. When you're ready to eat them, grill over indirect heat
(see page 38)
or cook in a pan over medium heat
(see page 45)
until browned and heated through.

VENISON AND JUNIPER SAUSAGE

YIELD: 3 LB/1.4 KG

Boneless venison shoulder, cut into 1-in/2.5-cm cubes

U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1.80 lb
GRAMS: 844
% OF TOTAL (100%): 62.00

Guanciale (cured pork jowl) or pancetta, diced

U.S. MEASUREMENT: 0.60 lb
GRAMS: 268
% OF TOTAL (100%): 19.70

Diced beef suet

U.S. MEASUREMENT:
¹/
₂cup
GRAMS: 136
% OF TOTAL (100%): 9.95

Gin

U.S. MEASUREMENT: 2 tbsp
GRAMS: 29
% OF TOTAL (100%): 2.15

Ice water

U.S. MEASUREMENT: 2 tbsp
GRAMS: 29
% OF TOTAL (100%): 2.15

Fine sea salt

U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1 tbsp
GRAMS: 20
% OF TOTAL (100%): 1.45

Finely chopped fresh parsley

U.S. MEASUREMENT:
¹/
₄cup
GRAMS: 12
% OF TOTAL (100%): 0.90

Finely chopped fresh sage

U.S. MEASUREMENT:
¹/
₄cup
GRAMS: 12
% OF TOTAL (100%): 0.90

Coarsely ground black pepper

U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1 tbsp
GRAMS: 8
% OF TOTAL (100%): 0.60

Juniper berries, finely ground

U.S. MEASUREMENT: 3 tsp
GRAMS: 3
% OF TOTAL (100%): 0.20

Sheep casings, rinsed

Venison has great flavor but is very lean, so this sausage benefits from the addition of both beef suet and
guanciale
(cured pork jowl). The juniper and gin give the sausage a deep, woodsy flavor, which seems a fitting match for venison. If you can't find guanciale, substitute pancetta.

Â Â
1.
Place the venison, guanciale, and suet on a rimmed baking sheet; transfer to the freezer; and chill until crunchy on the exterior but not frozen solid
(see page 23)
.
Â Â
2.
In a small bowl, add the gin, ice water, salt, parsley, sage, black pepper, and juniper berries and stir to combine.
Â Â
3.
Nest a large mixing bowl in a bowl filled with ice. Grind the venison, guanciale, and suet through the small die of the grinder into the bowl set in ice
(see page 24)
.
Â Â
4.
Add the herb mixture to the meat and stir with your hands until well incorporated; the mixture will look homogenous and will begin sticking to the bowl
(see page 25)
.
Â Â
5.
Spoon 2 tbsp of the meat mixture into a nonstick frying pan and spread into a thin patty. Cook the test patty over low heat until cooked through but not browned. Taste the sausage for seasoning and adjust as necessary.
Â Â
6.
Press a sheet of parchment paper or plastic wrap directly on the surface of the meat to prevent oxidation, then cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. Alternatively, you can vacuum-seal the farce.
Â Â
7.
Stuff the sausage into the sheep casings
(see page 31)
and twist into links
(see page 36)
.
Â Â
8.
These sausages are best grilled over indirect heat
(see page 38)
or panfried over medium heat
(see page 45)
until they reach an internal temperature of 145Â°F/63Â°C. The sausages may also be frozen
(see page 46)
.

CHAPTER 4
SOFT SAUSAGE

Like the smooth sausages described in
chapter 1
, soft-textured sausages contain a higher percentage of liquid and fat as compared to the coarse or firm-textured sausages described in
chapters 2
and
3
. But unlike smooth sausages, which require the additional technical step of whipping the sausage farce in a food processor, soft sausages are lightly mixed, not purÃ©ed. The challenge to making soft sausages is that you're trying to push the ratio, adding as much liquid and fat as possible.

It's this additional liquid and larger percentage of fat that give soft sausages their custardy texture and richness. Because the farce is so delicate, soft sausages in this chapter are typically poached, rather than smoked or grilled.

Master Ratio for Soft Sausage

Lean meat
(about 75% lean, 25% fat)