Ruhlman's Twenty

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Authors: Michael Ruhlman

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20 Techniques
100 Recipes
A Cook’s Manifesto
RUHLMAN’S TWENTY
MICHAEL RUHLMAN

Photographs by Donna Turner Ruhlman

Contents

INTRODUCTION

Technique 1 THINK
: Where Cooking Begins

Technique 2 SALT
: Your Most Important Tool

RAW ZUCCHINI SALAD

SAGE-GARLIC-BRINED PORK CHOPS

LEMON CONFIT

BACON AT HOME

CITRUS-CURED SALMON

CARAMEL SUNDAE WITH EXTRA-COARSE SALT

Technique 3 WATER
: The Unrecognized Miracle in the Kitchen

WEEKDAY COQ AU VIN

PAN-STEAMED SNAP PEAS

ROTISSERIE CHICKEN AND LEEK SOUP

PERFECT MEAT LOAF WITH CHIPOTLE KETCHUP

Chipotle Ketchup

PASTRAMI SHORT RIBS

EASY CHICKEN STOCK

Technique 4 ONION
: The Chef’s Secret Weapon

TRADITIONAL FRENCH ONION SOUP

WINTER VEGETABLE GARBURE

GREEN BEAN, CORN, AND ONION SALAD WITH ROASTED SHALLOT VINAIGRETTE

ROASTED SHALLOTS

MACERATED SHALLOTS

LEMON-SHALLOT MAYONNAISE OR CRÈME FRAÎCHE

MAC AND CHEESE WITH SOUBISE

Technique 5 ACID
: The Power of Contrast

GROUPER CEVICHE WITH CHILES AND LIME

PULLED PORK WITH EASTERN NORTH CAROLINA BARBECUE SAUCE

LEMON-CUMIN DAL

SAUTÉED DUCK BREASTS WITH ORANGE-CRANBERRY GASTRIQUE

CIDER VINEGAR TART

Technique 6 EGG
: A Culinary Marvel

SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH GOAT CHEESE AND CHIVES

SHIRRED EGGS WITH CREAM AND PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO

CLASSIC NEW YORK CHEESECAKE

PIZZA BIANCO WITH BACON AND EGGS

MAYONNAISE

AIOLI

CHEDDAR CHEESE SOUFFLÉ

SAVORY BREAD PUDDING WITH CARAMELIZED ONIONS AND GRUYÈRE

THE VTR WHISKEY SOUR

Technique 7 BUTTER
: “Butter. Give me butter! Always butter!”

CULTURED CREAM AND BUTTER

COMPOUND BUTTER

CLARIFIED BUTTER AND INDIAN GHEE

BEURRE MONTÉ

BUTTER-POACHED SHRIMP WITH GRITS

BROWN BUTTER MASHED POTATOES

SCOTTISH SHORTBREAD

Technique 8 DOUGH
: Flour, Part One

CINNAMON BUNS

DUTCH OVEN BREAD

PIZZA DOUGH

PIE DOUGH

CHARLOTTE’S APPLE JACK

SNICKERDOODLES

Technique 9 Batter
: Flour, Part Two

CLASSIC LAYER CAKE WITH CHOCOLATE BUTTERCREAM ICING AND CHOCOLATE GLAZE

CHOCOLATE BUTTERCREAM ICING

CHOCOLATE GLAZE

BANANA-BLUEBERRY BREAD

BASIC POPOVERS

MARLENE’S YORKSHIRE PUDDING

Technique 10 Sugar
: From Simple to Complex

CARAMEL SAUCE

EASY CARAMEL-BUTTER SAUCE

CARAMEL-MISO GLAZE

ANGEL FOOD CAKE WITH WHIPPED CREAM AND TOFFEE

LEMON-LIME SORBET

CANDIED ORANGE PEEL

Technique 11 SAUCE
: Not on the Side!

PAN SAUCE FOR ROASTED CHICKEN

HOLLANDAISE SAUCE

SIMPLE BUTTER SAUCE

PEPPERCORN AND COGNAC CREAM SAUCE

MUSHROOM SAUCE

TOMATO SAUCE

CHICKEN OR TURKEY GRAVY

Technique 12 VINAIGRETTE:
The Fifth Mother

LEMON-PEPPER VINAIGRETTE, TWO WAYS

LEEKS VINAIGRETTE

GRILLED STRIP STEAKS WITH CHILE-OREGANO VINAIGRETTE

CHORIZO VINAIGRETTE

Technique 13 SOUP
: The Easiest Meal

SAUSAGE AND ESCAROLE SOUP

CREAM OF CELERY ROOT SOUP

COLD SNAP PEA SOUP WITH MINT AND HONEY

SWEET BELL PEPPER SOUP

Technique 14 SAUTÉ
: The Hot Seat

SAUTÉED CHICKEN BREASTS WITH TARRAGON BUTTER SAUCE

SAUTÉED SCALLOPS WITH ASPARAGUS

SAUTÉED MUSHROOMS

SPICY BEEF WITH BELL PEPPERS

SAUTÉED SUMMER SQUASH

BRUSSELS SPROUTS SAUTÉED IN SPICY BACON FAT

THE WAY TO SAUTÉ BACON

Technique 15 ROAST:
High and Low

ROASTED CAULIFLOWER WITH BROWN BUTTER

LEG OF LAMB WITH MINT YOGURT SAUCE

PERFECT ROASTED CHICKEN

SPICY ROASTED GREEN BEANS WITH CUMIN

SUBTECHNIQUE: PAN ROASTING

PAN-ROASTED COD WITH CHORIZO VINAIGRETTE

PAN-ROASTED PORK TENDERLOIN WITH GARLIC, CORIANDER, AND THYME

Technique 16 BRAISE:
The Alchemy of Moist Heat

BRAISED FENNEL WITH THYME

BRAISED LAMB SHANKS WITH LEMON CONFIT

BRAISED DUCK LEGS

BRAISED PORK BELLY WITH CARAMEL-MISO GLAZE

RED WINE–BRAISED SHORT RIBS

Technique 17 POACH:
Gentle Heat

SALMON POACHED IN COURT BOUILLON

BEEF TENDERLOIN POACHED IN BEEF STOCK WITH ROOT VEGETABLES

WARM ARUGULA SALAD WITH BACON AND POACHED EGGS

SHALLOW-POACHED WALLEYE WITH WHITE WINE–SHALLOT SAUCE

HALIBUT POACHED IN OLIVE OIL

DUCK LEGS CONFIT

Technique 18 GRILL
: The Flavor of Fire

RIP’S OWN MARINADE FOR LONDON BROIL OR FLANK STEAK

BASIC WHITE WINE MARINADE FOR CHICKEN AND FISH

BUTTERFLIED CHICKEN WITH LEMON-TARRAGON BUTTER BASTE

GRILL-ROASTED PRIME RIB

GRILLED SPRING VEGETABLES WITH BALSAMIC VINAIGRETTE

GRILLED PEAR SALAD WITH HONEY-WALNUT VINAIGRETTE

GRILLED BRANZINO WITH FENNEL, LEMON, AND SHALLOT

Technique 19 FRY
: The Hottest Heat

ROSEMARY-BRINED, BUTTERMILK FRIED CHICKEN

FISH TACOS WITH GUACAMOLE AND FRESH SALSA

CHIPOTLE-CORN FRITTERS WITH CILANTRO-LIME DIPPING SAUCE

PANFRIED PORK CHOPS WITH LEMON-CAPER SAUCE

APPLE-CINNAMON DOUGHNUTS

Technique 20 CHILL
: Heat Extraction

CRISPY BRAISED VEAL BREAST

MAKE-AHEAD MUSHROOM RISOTTO

DEVILED EGGS

DEVILED EGGS WITH BLUE CHEESE AND BACON

CARAMEL-PECAN ICE CREAM

CANDIED PECANS

GRAPEFRUIT GRANITA

Epilogue

Afterword

Appendix

Sources

Index

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

COPYRIGHT

INTRODUCTION

This is a book about fundamental
techniques
for today’s kitchen. It is also a book with recipes. Foremost, it is a book about thinking about food. All cooking rests on a set of fundamental techniques. If you know those fundamentals, there’s very little you won’t be able to do in the kitchen. Happily, there aren’t a thousand of them. There aren’t even a hundred. I’ve created a list of the twenty basics you need to know in order to do all the rest.

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