Romancing the Roads (22 page)

Even at the height (and in the heat) of summer, the Arizona Biltmore is a busy place, hosting business meetings as well as family vacations.

Camelback Inn Marriott Resort and Spa

5402 E. Lincoln Dr.

480-948-1700 or 800-242-2635 (CAMEL)

www.camelbackinn.com

Upscale but relaxing, accommodations here consist of extremely attractive casitas, some of which are in fact duplexes, with the bedroom and bath on the loft level and the living room, dining and kitchen areas, and powder room on the lower level. Walk in the gardens. Perhaps the cacti will be blooming. This is a nice oasis.

Phoenix-Scottsdale Shopping

This area
is notoriously upscale, but I have found a good diversity of stores from consignment shops to the usual big-box outlets.

Camelback Colonnade

1919 Camelback Rd.

602-953-6412

www.camelbackcolonnade.com

Here you’ll find
Last Chance
(602-248-2843), a huge Nordstrom’s outlet and shopper’s paradise. It consists of Nordstrom’s “mistakes” (Yes!). Overbought clothing lines that are now being liquidated are available at fabulous sale prices, and you will not believe how much there is to choose from. Have fun!

A must-stop for any shopper is a complex of stores on the 2000 block of
East Camelback
:

My Sister’s Closet, My Sister’s Attic, and Well Suited

2033 E. Camelback Rd.

602-954-6080

My Sister’s Closet (www.mysisterscloset.com) has recycled designer apparel; My Sister’s Attic (www.mysistersattic.com) has recycled home furnishings; Well Suited (www.shopwellsuited.com) has clothing for men. The stores are operated by Eco-Chic Consignment Inc., whose philosophy is “recycled stuff for humans and their homes.” (I confess, I left a few pennies at My Sister’s Closet.)

Driving Diva Observation:
When you enter freeways or highways in Arizona (and possibly in other states as well), a caution light blinks red or green, telling you if cars are approaching on the road—so you know whether to enter or wait. This is excellent. Of course, you need the input from your eyes as well.

South of Phoenix

Heading southeast
out of Phoenix toward
Tucson
and
Green Valley
on Route 10, one comes across a number of curiosities, such as the ominously imposing
Picacho State Prison
, where once again you are urged not to pick up hitchhikers.

Rooster Cogburn’s Ostrich Ranch

17599 E. Peak Ln., Picacho

520-466-3658

www.roostercogburn.com

This is the largest ostrich ranch in the United States. Have you ever fed an ostrich? It’s a hoot. You buy the proper ostrich food for a very small amount of money, then go feed these funny-looking birds. At first I thought they would bite the hand that was trying to feed them, but no. A quick thrust of the neck over the high fence, and the food is safely plucked away from you. D. C., Lucille, and Danna Cogburn own and operate the ranch; Lucille was there when I visited. Most friendly and knowledgeable, Lucille can tell you everything you ever wanted to know about ostriches (and then some). The ranch sells everything from ostrich eggs to ostrich feather dusters.

Note:
Rooster Cogburn’s is closed on Wednesdays. If you miss visiting, you can look the ranch up on the Internet.

Tucson

One of
the oldest cities in the United States, Tucson has a lot going on. I spent a short time there, but without a doubt, it is vibrant, artistic, interesting, and historic. I should go back.

FYI:
From firsthand experiences, I report that St. Mary’s Hospital is more than first rate.

St. Mary’s Hospital

1601 W. Saint Mary’s Rd.

520-872-3000

www.carondelet.org‎

I hope you do not need it, but I provide the information just in case.

Green Valley and Amado

Green Valley
, a growing suburb of Tucson, is charming, friendly, clean, and attractive. A few miles south of Green Valley on I-19 is Amado, the place the Hollywood crowd would getaway to in the 1930s. If you exit at
Arivaca Road
, you will see a huge concrete cow’s skull that marks the entrance of a cantina, the Longhorn Bar & Grill.

Longhorn Bar & Grill

28851 S. Nogales Hwy.

520-398-3955

www.longhornamadoaz.com

Rumor has it that the nightly specials are terrific.

Across the way is the popular and famous Cow Palace Restaurant.

Cow Palace Restaurant

28802 S. Nogales Hwy.

520-398-1999

www.cowpalacerestaurant.com

You can’t miss it. The building is red and white with a cow statue on the roof. Opened in 1920, the palace was frequented by such celebrities as John Wayne and the unique Griz Green, the Gabby Hayes look-alike who was an occasional movie extra.

Prescott and Jerome: North of Phoenix

Prescott
(pronounced “press-kit”) is charming, and it’s hard not to feel welcome in this rather upscale western town. Boasting gentle seasons, recreational activities of all types, and major cultural events, it is home to the world’s oldest rodeo as well as Prescott College. There are wonderful antique stores, craft shops, and boutiques. A memorable Prescott experience is an evening gathering in the town square by
Courthouse Plaza
. One night there might be square dancing; the next night there will be something else.

There’s a lot of history in Prescott; over 450 buildings are on the National Register of Historic Places.
Whisk
ey Row
(www.whiskeyrow.us) is directly across from the Court
house Plaza.

Hotel St. Michael

205 W. Gurley St.

928-776-1999

www.stmichaelhotel.com

The old Hotel
St. Michael is a true step back in time.

Palace Restaurant and Saloon

120 South Montezuma

928-541-1996

www.historicpalace.com

The
Palace Restaurant has a friendly western ambience and excellent food.

Hassayampa Inn

122 E. Gurley St.

928-778-9434

www.hassayampainn.com

This sixty-eight-room historic property sits right on the street and is full of charm. Built in 1927, it is not without modern amenities. Nothing is pretentious at the Hassayampa Inn; everything seems just right. A meal in the three-star
Peacock Dining Room
(928-777-9563) is a delicious delight. I enjoyed every second at the inn and in Prescott.

Driving Diva Alert:
Route 89A from Jerome to Prescott is a true white-knuckle experience. Route 89A is probably the worst road I have ever driven on.

Jerome (Population Approximately 450)

Jerome
, positioned on a steep hill, was a booming mining town of nearly fifteen thousand people in the 1880s. It had the largest copper mine in Arizona, and people came from all over to find work. In 1918, a fire broke out in the eighty-eight miles of underground tunnels, leading to the safer practice of open-pit mining. However, continual dynamiting cracked Jerome’s buildings so much that the town actually began to shift, with the jail sliding some 225 feet. (It can now be found across the road from its original site.) In 1953, only fifty residents remained, but by the 1960s, Jerome’s renaissance was underway. An artists’ colony of sorts established itself, and the stalwart residents joined in rebuilding the town. Today it is a must-visit and touts itself as “American’s Most Vertical City” and the “Largest Ghost Town.” There are all sorts of shops and places to dine. I must return to Jerome as the reviews claim the food is excellent at all the restaurants and the ambiance fun and friendly. Three names must be mentioned:

Asylum Restaurant

200 Hill St.

928-639-3197

www.theasylum.biz

Belgian Jennie’s Bordello Pizzeria

412 Main St.

928-639-3141

Mile High Inn and Grill

309 Main St.

928-634-5094

www.milehighgrillandinn.com

Also a consideration would be to indulge in a glass of wine at the
Jerome Winery while some local music plays in the background.

Jerome Winery

403 Clark St.

928-639-9067

www.jeromewinery.com

Grand Canyon

At least
once in a lifetime, one should visit the world’s biggest hole in the ground—an unbelievable 277 miles long and 18 miles wide with an average depth of 1 mile. Because of the shifting light, the Grand Canyon looks like it is always changing. The colors within the canyon glow and at times seem almost neon-like. In spite of its size, there is a breathtaking quiet to the canyon. There are many lodges to stay at on the
South Rim
, but reservations are a must and should be made far in advance. The rooms are not fancy, but they are very comfortable. The
El Tovar Hotel has the more formal dining.

El Tovar Hotel

10 Albright Ave.

888-297-2757

www.grandcanyonlodges.com/el-tovar-409
.html

Bright Angel Lodge & Cabins

219–221 Village Loop Dr.

520-638-2631

www.grandcanyonlodges.com/bright-angel-lodge-408.html

When I checked into
the Bright Angel Lodge, I was asked if I would like a wake-up call so that I could see the sunrise over the rim the next morning. Of course I would, and it was well worth getting up for. What a fantastic experience! I am still talking about it and telling everyone to do likewise. Be sure you do not miss this unbelievable, beautiful, awesome sight.

The experience:
What was that early-morning experience like? First of all, it was chilly, even in the summer. It is quiet and cold, and people are ambling, many with arms crossed over chest to keep in warmth, waiting for the first glow of dawn and eventual warming rays. Silently, it suddenly starts. The sky lightens, and the rocks start to take on their early dawn colors. Gradually, a huge orb starts to inch its way upward as this world awakens. It is not hard to realize why the early inhabitants of the area thought the sun was a magical, mystical entity. You might find yourself agreeing.

There is a lot to do at the Grand Canyon, such as hiking, taking helicopter or mule rides, or just meditating on stone and light. I thought it might be easy to walk a tiny way down the canyon and look up. Not for this mother! Once the guardrail was no more, that took care of my walk. I even tried to go down a ways on my backside. No way. I hear from my younger son, who has hiked the canyon several times, that it is a magnificent experience. I’m sure it is, and I’ll just take his word for it.

As of 2011, the entrance fee into the park is $25 per vehicle (including all passengers) or $12 per individual, which provides you with a seven-day pass. Pick up a senior citizen lifetime pass for all national parks if you’re eligible. Your camping fees are additional to the entrance fee and are charged by the night. Hotel reservations are handled by Xanterra Parks & Resorts (303-297-2757, www.grandcanyonlodges.com). Rates range from approximately $50 to $325.

Note:
For those with respiratory and heart problems, the altitude of the Grand Canyon’s rims ranges from seven to eight thousand feet, so consult with your doctor before visiting.

Nevada

FYI:
Wendover West, Nevada, and Wendover, Utah, are two towns with the same name on the border of these two states.

Arriving
in Nevada from Salt Lake City, Utah, you will have spent a very long time crossing the salt flats—something you should do at least once. (See the Utah chapter for details.)

Wendover West

Wendover West
, being the first city in Nevada along I-80, is a big gambling town. Even so, women can feel relatively secure, although this is not Mayberry by any means. It is important to be alert, look like you know what you are doing (even if you don’t), and know where you are going. Drinks are often free in the casinos, but don’t be too tempted.

Wendover Nugget Hotel (formerly the State Line Hotel)

101 Wendover Blvd.

775-664-2221

www.wendovernugget.com

Comfortable and even sort of cozy, despite its size of more than eight hundred rooms, the Wendover Nugget was, most of all, clean and friendly—not fancy, not plush, but nice.

Discoveries: Wendover West

There are
lots of other hotels and motels, as well as the usual fast fooders. Pawnshops come in several varieties: very professional establishments, rough shops that are willing to take your blood if that is all you have to offer, and friendly places that are fun to look around in and maybe find a treasure or two. If you spend even a short time in a pawnshop in a gambling town, you will see amazing things. I think some desperate people would remove the fillings from their teeth if they could pawn them for just one more try with Lady Luck.

Wendover West to Reno is a long drive and will take you at least eight or nine hours, but it should be done at least once. Although the highway is excellent, I would not recommend driving I-80 across Nevada at night. There are long, desolate stretches, and if you were to need help (heaven forbid!), you could have a real problem. A cell phone is imperative. The road is dusty, windy, and full of trucks; the topography is barren, flat, and at times monotonous, but it does have an aura that you should experience.

Elko (Population More Than 14,000)

This is
the first real town you will come to. It has all the usual retail chain stores. (I even found one of my favorites,
Maurice’s
[www.maurices.com].) Elko would be a good place to stay overnight if you wanted to divide the trek across the state. It is a beautiful area for wildlife and outdoor sports.

Reno (Population More Than 133,000)

Reno looks
like a major metropolis after Elko. It’s a busy and crowded place, full of casinos, pawnshops, and all the riffraff they attract. Although there are many hotels, I played it safe and stayed at the Hilton, which is now the Grand Sierra Resort & Casino.

Grand Sierra Resort & Casino (formerly Hilton Reno)

2500 E. Second St.

775-789-2000

www.grandsierraresort.com

With two thousand rooms, this hotel is big! From all I saw, the property is very professionally managed. Do not expect warm and fuzzy service, but you are of course in a gambling mecca. My room was comfortable, and I was to learn that all the rooms are oversized, encompassing 425 square feet. Accommodations are sensibly priced. Of course, getting a guest on property is key for gambling returns, and with a bit of time and research, I would presume that deals are available. The resort is on 142 acres, and there is a lot to do aside from gambling. Entertainment abounds. There is a fifty-lane championship bowling facility and an indoor golf simulator, a mini go-cart ride, swimming, and more, including a variety of places to eat. From the Grand Sierra, discovering the area is easy and convenient.

PS:
Interestingly, before 1844 Reno was inhabited by the Paiute and Washoe Indians. In 1859 Charles Fuller of Pine Grove, California, put in a toll bridge across the
Truckee River
and then the
Comstock Lode
was discovered in
Virginia City
, one of the largest strikes in the world. And so, the population explosion began, putting Reno firmly on the map. In 1886, the University of Nevada moved from Elko to Reno. Gambling had its ups and downs, but in 1879 it was legalized, only to be banned in 1910. Finally, in 1931, for tourism and economic reasons, Nevada legalized gambling. All this, mixed with the establishment of the quickie divorce, got Reno moving on the fast track. It is interesting to visit Reno, even if you are not a gambler.

Lake Tahoe

The drive
into Tahoe from Reno on U.S. 395 can be a slight brake burner, but do not fear; just be aware and alert. People are generally patient with those who drive slower than the natives, but look out for passing cars.

Tahoe is now very in with the new Silicon Valley money barons, and price doesn’t seem to be much of an object. It’s no wonder the barons choose this stunningly beautiful area. I immediately was impressed and would go back in a heartbeat.

Lake Tahoe is huge and straddles both Nevada and California.
Incline Village
is the Nevada side of Tahoe.

Hyatt Regency Lake Tahoe Resort, Spa, and Casino

111 Country Club Dr., Incline Village

775-832-1234

www.laketahoe.hyatt.com

This is a wonderful place to stay, with its lakeside beach and mountain backdrop. When I was there, the beach attendant was most considerate in reminding bathers of the intense sun at that altitude (six thousand feet) and to apply sunscreen accordingly. Nearby are plenty of restaurants, a very nice grocery store, and a post office. Perhaps I will discover more of this beautiful area in the not-too-distant future. Hopefully, development will take place in proper increments in Tahoe. The resources are there; hopefully the powers that be will not get hoodwinked or greedy.

Note:
If you are heading west out of Tahoe into California, be sure to top up the gas tank. There are not a lot of gas stations along this section of I-80.

Las Vegas

I-15
will take you to the ultimate neon city, the one and only Las Vegas. Whatever you have read or seen about Las Vegas will pale in comparison to seeing it firsthand. And because of the crowds, the money changing hands, the shows, the gambling of all sorts, and everything else that happens in Las Vegas, it is actually a relatively safe place for a woman to visit on her own. Police, security guards, and video cameras are everywhere.

Las Vegas has also become something of a destination for families. There are plenty of things for children to do. It’s best to plan well ahead for a stay in Las Vegas. Hotels sell out for the weekends, as do tickets to popular shows. Obtain information and input from others who have been to this city. On my most recent trip, I spent one very full day in Las Vegas. A possible return trip for discoveries, shows, restaurants, and such could be on the agenda.

In 1978 the largest hotel at that time was built, the twenty-six-story, 5,690-room MGM Grand.

MGM Grand Hotel & Casino

3799 Las Vegas Blvd. S.

702-891-7777 or 877-880-0880

www.mgmgrand.com

Travel Tip:
If you’re driving to Los Angeles, avoid leaving Las Vegas on a Sunday afternoon. The interstate is
a parking lot all the way to the coast.

Note:
Less than a two-hour drive from Las Vegas is unbelievable
Death Valley
, which should not be missed. (See the California chapter for details.)