One Pan, Two Plates (12 page)

Choucroute garni
is an Alsatian dish of sauerkraut, potatoes, spices, and any number of pork products, from a pig’s shoulder to his knuckles. I’ve kept it simple here with bacon, kielbasa, and sauerkraut, but it just wouldn’t be the classic dish without the addition of clove, allspice, and wine with a diced apple tossed in for good measure. Don’t forget to slather mustard or horseradish on the sausages and potatoes at the table. I’m always surprised at how good this meal tastes. Sometimes simple really is best.

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START TO FINISH
45 minutes

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HANDS-ON TIME
20 minutes

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serves 2

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2 whole cloves

2 whole allspice

1 bay leaf, crumbled

½ tsp salt

½ cup/120 ml dry white wine

½ cup/120 ml chicken broth

1 tbsp olive oil

2 slices bacon, diced

1 small yellow onion, thinly sliced

1 tart-sweet apple such as Braeburn or Crispin, peeled, cored, and cut into ½-in/12-mm dice

2 new potatoes, scrubbed and cut into ½-in/12-mm dice

10 oz/280 g kielbasa, knockwurst, or bratwurst or a combination, cut into 2-in/5-cm pieces

1 lb/455 g sauerkraut, drained and squeezed dry (see “It’s that easy”)

Freshly ground black pepper

2 tsp minced fresh flat-leaf parsley

Whole-grain mustard and prepared horseradish for serving

1.
In a bowl, combine the cloves, allspice, bay leaf, salt, wine, and chicken broth. Set aside.

2.
Heat a 12-in/30.5-cm skillet over medium-high heat and add the olive oil. When the oil shimmers, add the bacon and cook, stirring, it until it renders its fat and is almost crispy, about 3 minutes. Add the onion, apple, and potatoes and sauté until the onion is softened, about 3 minutes. Add the kiel-basa, spiced broth mixture, sauerkraut, and a few grinds of pepper and stir it all together. Bring to a simmer, cover, and reduce the heat to low. Simmer the choucroute until the flavors have blended and the potatoes are tender, about 20 minutes.

3.
Mound the choucroute onto two warmed plates and sprinkle the parsley over the top. Serve hot, with the mustard and horseradish on the side.

it’s that easy:
The trick to making great-tasting sauerkraut dishes is squeezing out most of the super-tart sauerkraut juice and replacing it with a mix of chicken broth and wine. It mellows the tartness factor, making it a more pleasant dish.

extra hungry?
To make this dish dinner-worthy, I include bacon and kielbasa sausage, but if you’re in the mood and super-hungry, go ahead and add a diced smoked pork chop or diced ham to “pork” it up.

in the glass:
Look for a dry Riesling from Alsace, such as Trimbach, for a good balance between sweet and acid.

Braised Lentils

with
POLISH KIELBASA
and
CABBAGE

When looking for a hearty meal, look no further than this dish. It’s full of vegetables, earthy lentils, and garlicky kielbasa sausage, simmered in chicken broth and scented with rosemary. Not only are lentils delicious and fast-cooking, they are packed full of protein and fiber—good for helping keep you full for an action-packed evening. This is a classic weeknight meal: simple, healthful, and delicious, using items that are on hand in the pantry and refrigerator.

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START TO FINISH
45 minutes

...

HANDS-ON TIME
20 minutes

...

serves 2

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1 tbsp vegetable oil

1 small yellow onion, thinly sliced

2 cups/170 g thinly sliced cabbage

1 carrot, peeled and thinly sliced

½ celery stalk, thinly sliced

1 garlic clove, minced

2 tsp minced fresh rosemary or 1 tsp dried

½ tsp salt

Freshly ground black pepper

⅓ cup/75 ml dry white wine or apple juice

¾ cup/150 g dried lentils (see “It’s that easy”)

1¼ cups/300 ml chicken broth

8 oz/225 g Polish kielbasa, cut into bite-size pieces

2 tsp minced fresh flat-leaf parsley

1.
Heat a 12-in/30.5-cm skillet over medium-high heat and add the vegetable oil. When the oil shimmers, add the onion and sauté until it begins to soften, about 1 minute. Add the cabbage, carrot, celery, garlic, rosemary, salt, and a grind or two of pepper and sauté until the vegetables begin to soften, about 3 minutes.

2.
Pour in the wine and cook, stirring, it until it has almost cooked off, about 1 minute. Add the lentils, chicken broth, and kielbasa and stir, using your spoon to push on the lentils so they are immersed in the liquid. Bring to a simmer. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer gently until the lentils are tender, about 25 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

3.
Mound the lentils, vegetables, and sausage on two warmed plates, garnish with the parsley, and serve hot.

it’s that easy:
The lentils on your grocery store shelf are probably the everyday brown variety, but there are other lovely types as well. Look for red, yellow, green French lentils (lentilles du Puy), or the little black lentils called “beluga” for an exotic change of pace. They’re fairly interchangeable and cook in about the same amount of time.

extra hungry?
For an even more filling meal, add toasted baguette rounds spread with goat cheese and topped with a sun-dried tomato.

in the glass:
A creamy, chilled Chardonnay would be a delicious complement to the rich flavors of this hearty dinner. For a fine bottle for everyday drinking, look for New Zealand’s Babich Hawke’s Bay Unoaked Chardonnay.

Golden Corn Cakes

with
CRISPY PANCETTA
and
ARUGULA SALAD

Temptation, thy name is corn cake. Especially when paired with crispy Italian bacon and lemony dressed arugula salad. I’ve got to admit, I love making this dish when fresh corn is king, but it’s also delicious with frozen corn, when winter-weary palates yearn for a flash of summer on the plate. Thanks to Yotam Ottolenghi for inspiration for this dish.

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START TO FINISH
35 minutes

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HANDS-ON TIME
35 minutes

...

serves 2

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1 green onion, white and tender green parts, thinly sliced

½ jalapeño chile, seeded and minced

2 tbsp thinly sliced fresh basil

Kernels from 4 ears corn or 2 cups/340 g frozen corn, thawed (see “It’s that easy”)

¼ cup/35 g cornmeal

3 tbsp all-purpose flour

¼ tsp ground cumin

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

½ cup/120 ml whole-fat plain Greek yogurt, plus more for topping

1 large egg

3 tbsp olive oil, plus more for frying

2 tsp fresh lemon juice

8 slices pancetta or 3 slices bacon

2 handfuls arugula

1.
In a medium bowl, combine the green onion, jalapeño, basil, corn, cornmeal, flour, cumin, ¼ tsp salt, and a few grinds of black pepper. In a large bowl, whisk together the ½ cup/120 ml yogurt, egg, and 1 tbsp of the olive oil. Add the dry ingredients and stir just until a thick batter comes together.

2.
In another medium bowl, whisk together the lemon juice, 1 tbsp olive oil, a pinch of salt, and a grind of pepper for the salad dressing. Set aside.

3.
Heat a 12-in/30.5-cm skillet over medium-high heat and add the remaining 1 tbsp oil and the pancetta. Cook the pancetta without disturbing until it’s crispy on one side, about 2 minutes. Turn with tongs and cook until crisp all over, about 1 minute longer. (If using regular bacon, it will take more like 5 to 7 minutes, turning as needed, to crisp.) Remove from the heat. Using a slotted spoon, scoop the pancetta onto a paper towel—lined plate to drain. When it’s cooled, crumble and set aside.

4.
There should be enough fat in the pan, but add enough olive oil to give the bottom a good coating, if needed. Return the pan to medium-high heat and heat until blazing hot. Add the corn batter in ⅓-cup/75-ml portions. You should be able to fit four scoops in the pan. Flatten the mounds of batter with the back of a fork and tidy up the sides with the tines. Cook until golden on the bottom, 2 to 3 minutes. Using a thin-edged spatula, flip the cakes over and cook until they’re golden on the second side, about 1 minute longer. (The corn kernels might pop, so don’t be startled!) Transfer the cakes as they are done to a paper towel—lined plate. Repeat to cook the remaining batter, adding more oil to the pan as needed.

5.
Whisk the lemon dressing if it has separated and add the arugula, tossing to coat it. Arrange the dressed salad on two warmed plates and top it with the hot corn cakes, a dollop of yogurt, and the crumbled pancetta. Serve hot. The greens will wilt a little bit, but that’s a good thing.

it’s that easy:
If you’re using frozen corn for this dish, splurge on the baby gold and white variety—it’s sweeter, more tender, and less starchy. If using fresh corn, it’s easy to cut the corn from the ears. Grab your biggest bowl and hold the ear of corn in it, small end pointing up. Hold the corn with one hand and, holding a sharp knife in your other hand, cut down along the cob, following the contours and keeping the knife close to the cob to get the whole kernels and their juices. Using the bowl helps to keep stray corn kernels from bouncing all over the kitchen.

extra hungry?
This is a light meal, perfect for a summer dinner on the patio. For hungry appetites, add a classic shrimp cocktail on the side. Purchase cooked shrimp from the fish case at the market along with the already-mixed-up cocktail sauce of your choice. Serve it with a few lemon wedges for squeezing.

in the glass:
I was seeking something white, light, and fruity for this wine pairing, and remembered nothing satisfies those terms like a bottle of vinho verde from Portugal. The Gazela label delivers delicate white-fruit aromas and light carbonation along with crisp, dry flavor.