Nuts in the Kitchen (2 page)
Walnuts:
Walnuts contain the short-chain omega-3 alpha-linolenic acid, the only omega-3 found in plants. The short-chain omega-3s may not be as good for the heart as their long-chain cousins (which are found mostly in fish and shellfish), but they are helpful to the heart and helpful in improving the balance of polyunsaturated fatty acids in the diet. Walnuts are also the most abundant food source of copper and manganese.
Walnuts contain 15 percent protein and 65 percent fat. Of that, 9 percent is monounsaturated and 47 percent polyunsaturated.
Seeds
Like nuts, seeds may lower cholesterol in the body because of their unsaturated fatty acids. They offer many of the same nutritional benefits of nuts and much flavor and texture as well.
Flax Seeds:
These are a very rich source of the same short-chain omega-3 fatty acid found in walnuts. In addition, flax seeds are concentrated in lignan, which is an excellent source of dietary fiber. For the benefits of flax seeds to be made available to the body, they must be ground or crushed into a meal.
Flax seeds are 18 percent protein and 42 percent fat. Of that, 8 percent is monounsaturated and 29 percent polyunsaturated.
Poppy Seeds:
The fat in poppy seeds is rich in heart-healthy short-chain omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids. Note: Eating poppy seeds—even the amount on a poppy seed bagel—can interfere with a standard drug test for up to ten days after consumption, making the test show a positive reaction to drug use.
Poppy seeds are 18 percent protein and 45 percent fat. Of that, 6 percent is monounsaturated and 31 percent is polyunsaturated.
Pumpkin Seeds:
These are exceptional in the plant world because they provide iron (1 ounce supplies up to 23 percent of a woman’s daily requirement) and zinc, which is important to immune and neurological function, may promote prostate and bone health in men, helps in wound healing and maintenance of the sense of taste and smell, and is needed for DNA synthesis. Pumpkin seeds are also a good source of magnesium, manganese, phosphorus, copper, and vitamin K, which is necessary for normal blood clotting.
Pumpkin seeds are 24 percent protein and 45 percent fat. Of that, 14 percent is monounsaturated fat and 21 percent is polyunsaturated fat.
Sesame Seeds:
Sesame seeds and their ground version, tahini or sesame butter, contain iron, copper, manganese, and zinc.
Sesame seeds are 17 percent protein and 50 percent fat. Of that, 19 percent is monounsaturated and 22 percent is polyunsaturated.
Sunflower Seeds:
Sunflower seeds are an excellent source of vitamins B and E (1 cup of seeds in the shell provides the daily requirement of both), copper (see almonds for both), magnesium, and selenium (see Brazil nuts for both). Sunflower seeds are also a good source of protein, and half of their fat content is linoleic acid (omega-6—which is essential for growth and development), and half is monounsaturated. They contain substantial amounts of potassium (which can contribute to lowering blood pressure), thiamine (vitamin B
1
, which helps the body cells convert carbohydrates into energy and is essential for the functioning of the heart, muscles, and nervous system), riboflavin (vitamin B
2
, which works with other B vitamins, helps in cell production, and helps release energy from carbohydrates), and folate (see hazelnuts).
Sunflower seeds contain 21 percent protein and 51 percent fat. Of that, 18 percent is monounsaturated and 23 percent is polyunsaturated.
Nut Allergies
The proteins in certain nuts, primarily peanuts but other nuts as well, can provoke mild to severe allergic reactions. The most severe reaction is called
anaphylaxis,
which is a sudden, severe, whole-body reaction that can range from mild to fatal. If testing for allergies reveals an allergy to nuts, the only way to avoid an allergic reaction is to completely avoid nuts; all foods containing nuts; foods, surfaces, dishes, and utensils that have been in contact with nuts; and even nut particles in the air, if in an enclosed space where people are cracking and eating nuts.
Breakfast
B
reakfast may be the most important meal of the day, for the nutritional foundation it provides. It’s my favorite meal as well, because breakfast foods are so great—a stack of nutty pancakes drizzled with maple syrup, crisp granola filled with nuts and dried fruits, fresh fruit compotes, yogurt parfaits, cakes and waffles, a lush almond cake.
I’ve included some of my favorite breakfast foods here, and most of them are sweet. I also love to sprinkle Dukkah (Chapter Small Plates) on a piece of toast that I’ve moistened with olive oil; the Almond Sprinkle (Chapter The Basics) is delicious over yogurt; and sometimes nothing hits the spot like almond butter (Chapter The Basics) spread on a piece of freshly baked bread.
Breakfast is new, it’s fresh, it’s light and luscious. Accompany these dishes with coffee or tea, almond milk, or freshly squeezed juice. You’ll feel like a million bucks all day long.
Makes 6 to 8 servings
I was staying with my friend Patricia Wells, and she served a gorgeous compote like this, made with apricots straight from her own trees. I swooned—then ate some more!
2 pounds (1 kg) fresh apricots, halved, peeled, and pitted
3 tablespoons lavender honey
3 tablespoons pine nuts
Note:
The recipe calls for lavender honey, which is best, but if you cannot find it, use a floral honey that is on the mild side. The amount of honey you use really depends on your sweet tooth and the sweet ripeness of the apricots.
1.
Place the apricots in a large, heavy saucepan over medium heat. They will first sizzle and then give up their juices. Cook until they are tender and very juicy, about 20 minutes, then stir in the honey and continue cooking for an additional 10 minutes. Remove the compote from the stove, stir in the pine nuts, and either serve immediately or let cool to room temperature first.
Makes about 6 cups
This crunchy mixture of grains and seeds is so beguiling it’s hard not to eat it by the handful. Which, actually, isn’t the worst way to eat this nutritious and delicious breakfast cereal. Consider it as a snack. If you’re not a milk drinker, try pouring fresh apple juice over this instead, with a topping of yogurt. Serve it with fresh fruit, use it as a topping for hot cereal, or stir it into muffins or sweet breads. It’s versatile and delicious.
1 cup (16 tablespoons; 250 g) unsalted butter
¼ cup (60 ml) mild honey
¼ cup (55 g) dark brown sugar
¼ teaspoon sea salt
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
4 cups rolled oats or flakes made from other grains
1 cup (90 g) unsweetened coconut
¼ cup (40 g) sunflower seeds
1
/
3
cup (35 g) sesame seeds
1
/
3
cup (30 g) raw almonds
Note:
Use this recipe as a guide. You may add other seeds or nuts, other grains like buckwheat or quinoa flakes or even chickpea flakes (don’t use rice flakes, though; they’re tough). Use more or less honey or brown sugar, or all honey or all brown sugar, but know that if you use all honey the granola is likely to brown much more quickly. In fact, even with the amount of honey called for, the granola tends to brown quickly, so don’t leave the kitchen as it is baking. And don’t leave out the vanilla!
Unsweetened coconut is available at health food and specialty stores.
1.
Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or aluminum foil.
2.
Place the butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. When it has melted enough to cover the bottom of the pan, add the honey and brown sugar and whisk occasionally as the butter melts. When it is fully melted, gently whisk in the salt and vanilla. Remove from the heat.
3.
Place the grains, coconut, seeds, and almonds in a large bowl. Pour the sauce—it may still be very hot, which
is fine—over the mixture. Toss until all the ingredients are thoroughly combined, then turn out the granola onto two baking sheets. Spread it out into an even layer and bake in the center of the oven, stirring occasionally, until the granola is golden, 20 to 25 minutes. (Remember that if you’ve used exclusively honey you should reduce the baking time. Watch it—you’ll know when the granola is ready by its golden color.)
4.
Remove from the heat and let cool, then break up the clumps and transfer to airtight containers and store in a cool spot. The granola will keep well for about 1 month.
Heavenly Chocolate Hazelnut Spread
Makes about 2 cups (500 ml)
The title says it all, and, yes, I was inspired by Nutella to make this luscious spread. I adore Nutella, and this is even better, more richly flavored, more elegant. And it makes a relatively small quantity, so it is something to truly savor, every single mouthful.
Nutella is that sinfully rich chocolate and hazelnut spread that Mr. Pietro Ferrero, an Italian candy magnate from Piemonte, Italy, developed after World War II. Chocolate was in short supply and taxes on it were high, so to extend it Mr. Ferrero ground the sweet, local
tonde gentile
hazelnut to a paste and added it to chocolate. He had a model to follow, for
giandujotti,
small hazelnut and chocolate confections developed to cut back on the costs of pure chocolate confections in the mid-1800s, had already made Turin candy makers famous throughout Italy.
Mr. Ferrero’s chocolate-extender took the form of a Velveeta-like block, ready for slicing and slapping between two pieces of bread. It wasn’t until several years later that Mr. Ferrero turned his mixture into one of spreadable consistency. Sometime later he and his colleagues renamed it Nutella. Today its popularity knows no bounds, and it is available in everything from tiny tablespoon-sized containers to giant 2-pound jars.
2 cups (300 g) hazelnuts
¾ cup (90 g) confectioners’ sugar
¼ cup (40 g) good-quality unsweetened dark cocoa powder, such as Valrhona or Scharffen Berger
Pinch of salt
2 tablespoons canola oil, or more if necessary (optional)
Note:
This spread is as addictive as its inspiration. I add 5 tablespoons of cocoa to the mixture, which gives it a very satisfying chocolate and hazelnut flavor—you may want to add a bit more or a bit less.
I call for neutral oil here, which gives it a lovely spreadable consistency. If you leave out the oil—which I do on occasion—the flavor is still the same, but it is a bit more solid and less easy to spread.
Finally, don’t expect the completely smooth texture of commercial Nutella here. Think of this as the “crunchy” version!
1.
Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Spread the hazelnuts on a jelly-roll pan and toast them until you can smell them, about 10 minutes. Remove them from the oven and place them in a cotton towel. Scrub and roll them around in the towel to remove the skins.
2.
When the hazelnuts are skinned (don’t be concerned if you cannot remove all the skin—just do the best you can), place the hazelnuts in a food processor and process until the nuts make a smooth paste, which will take some time, about 10 minutes. Add the confectioners’ sugar and cocoa powder and process again until all the ingredients are thoroughly mixed. Add the salt, process, and if the mixture is very dry, add the canola oil while the machine is running. Taste for seasoning. If the mixture is very warm, let it cool completely before transferring it to a jar and sealing it. It will keep for about 1 month in a cool, dark spot.
Makes 6 to 8 servings
What better way to start the day than with a bowl of fresh apricot compote studded with pistachio nuts? I like to serve this freshly made and warm or layered with yogurt in a parfait.
2 pounds (1 kg) apricots, pitted and cut into quarters
2
/
3
cup (140 g) muscovado or dark brown sugar, lightly packed
Seeds from 4 cardamom pods, crushed (about ¼ teaspoon)
Zest of ½ lemon, minced
2 teaspoons unsalted butter
¼ cup (30 g) pistachio nuts
Pinch of salt
Note:
The amount of sugar you use will depend on your sweet tooth and the sweet ripeness of the apricots.
I love this hot from the stove, but you can also make it the night before and serve it either chilled or at room temperature.
1.
Place the apricots and ½ cup (112 g) of the sugar in a nonreactive saucepan and let sit until the apricots soften and begin to give up their liquid, at least 1 hour. Place the saucepan over medium heat, stir the apricots and sugar and the liquid the apricots have given up, and bring the mixture to a gentle boil. Cook, stirring frequently to keep the compote from sticking to the bottom of the pan, for 30 minutes.
2.
Add the cardamom and lemon zest and continue cooking, stirring frequently, until the apricots have turned from a bright orange color to a darkened, rusty color and the juices have thickened somewhat, 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool to lukewarm before serving.
3.
Melt the butter in a small skillet over medium heat and add the pistachios. Cook, stirring constantly, until the pistachios are golden on the outside, 5 to 8 minutes. Sprinkle with the salt, stir, and remove from the heat.
4.
When the compote is cool enough to serve, divide it evenly among six to eight dishes. Sprinkle each dish with a teaspoon of the remaining brown sugar and an equal amount of pistachios. Serve.
