My Life on the Road

Copyright © 2015 by Gloria Steinem

All rights reserved.

Published in the United States by Random House, an imprint and division of Penguin Random House LLC, New York.

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ANDOM
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OUSE
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OUSE
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Grateful acknowledgment is made to the following for permission to reprint previously published material:

Houghton Mifflin Harcourt Publishing Company and The Joy Harris Literary Agency, Inc.: Excerpts from “In These Dissenting Times” from Revolutionary Petunias & Other Poems by Alice Walker, copyright © 1970 and copyright renewed 1998 by Alice Walker. Electronic rights and rights throughout the U.K. and Commonwealth are controlled by The Joy Harris Literary Agency, Inc. Reprinted by permission of Houghton Mifflin Harcourt Publishing Company and The Joy Harris Literary Agency, Inc.

Sony/ATV Music Publishing LLC: Excerpt from “Rainy Night in Georgia” written by Tony White, copyright © 1969 Combine Music Corp. All rights administered by Sony/ATV Music Publishing LLC, 424 Church Street, Suite 1200, Nashville, TN 37219. All rights reserved. Reprinted by permission.

L
IBRARY OF
C
ONGRESS
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ATALOGING-IN-
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UBLICATION
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Steinem, Gloria.

My life on the road / Gloria Steinem.

pages cm

ISBN 978-0-679-45620-9

eBook ISBN 978-0-8129-8835-2

1. Steinem, Gloria. 2. Feminists—United States—Biography.

3. Feminism—United States. I. Title.

HQ1413.S675A3 2015

305.42092—dc23

[B]

2015010718

eBook ISBN 9780812988352

randomhousebooks.com

Title page photograph © Marianne Barcellona

Book design by Barbara M. Bachman, adapted for eBook

Cover design: Gregg Kulick

Cover photograph: © Tom Victor

v4.1_r1

ep

“Evolution intended us to be travelers….Settlement for any length of time, in cave or castle, has at best been…a drop in the ocean of evolutionary time.”

—Bruce Chatwin,
A
NATOMY OF
R
ESTLESSNESS

I
board a plane for Rapid City, South Dakota, and see a lot of people in black leather, chains, and tattoos. Airline passengers usually look like where they’re going—business suits to Washington, D.C., jeans to L.A.—but I can’t imagine a convention of such unconventional visitors in Rapid City. It’s the kind of town where people still angle-park their cars in front of the movie palace. My bearded seatmate is asleep in his studded jacket and nose ring, so I just accept one more mystery of the road.

At the airport, I meet five friends from different parts of the country. We are a diverse group of women—a Cherokee activist and her grown-up daughter, two African American writers and one musician, and me. We’ve been invited to a Lakota Sioux powwow celebrating the powerful place that women held before patriarchy arrived from Europe, and efforts now to restore that place.

As we drive toward the Badlands, we see an acre of motorcycles around each isolated diner and motel. This solves the mystery of the leather and chains, but creates another. When we stop for coffee, our waitress can’t believe we don’t know. Every August since 1938, bikers from all over the world have come here for a rally named after Sturgis, a town that’s just a wide place in the road. They are drawn by this sparsely populated space of forests, mountains, and a grid of highways so straight that it is recognizable from outer space. Right now about 250,000 bikers are filling every motel and campground within five hundred miles.

Our band of six strong women takes note. The truth is we are a little afraid of so many bikers in one place. How could we not be? We have all learned from movies that bikers travel in packs, treat their women like possessions, and may see other women as sexual fair game.

But we don’t run into the bikers because we spend our days traveling down unmarked roads, past the last stand of trees, in Indian Country. We eat home-cooked food brought in trucks, sit on blankets around powwow grounds where dancers follow the heartbeat of drums, and watch Indian ponies as decorated as the dancers. When it rains, a rainbow stretches from can’t-see to can’t-see, and fields of wet sweet grass become as fragrant as gigantic flowers.

Only when we return late each night to our cabins do we see motorcycles in the parking lot. While walking in Rapid City, I hear a biker say to his tattooed woman partner, “Honey, shop as long as you want—I’ll meet you at the cappuccino place.” I assume this is an aberration.

On our last morning, I enter the lodge alone for an early breakfast, trying to remain both inconspicuous and open-minded. Still, I’m hyperconscious of a room full of knife sheaths, jackboots, and very few women. In the booth next to me, a man with chains around his muscles and a woman in leather pants and an improbable hairdo are taking note of my presence. Finally, the woman comes over to talk.

“I just want to tell you,” she says cheerfully, “how much
Ms.
magazine has meant to me over the years—and my husband, too. He reads some now that he’s retired. But what I wanted to ask—isn’t one of the women you’re traveling with Alice Walker? I love her poetry.”

It turns out that she and her husband have been coming to this motorcycle rally every year since they were first married. She loves the freedom of the road and also the mysterious moonscape of the Badlands. She urges me to walk there, but to follow the paths marked by ropes. During the war over the sacred Black Hills, she explains, Lakota warriors found refuge there because the cavalry got lost every time.

Her husband stops by on his way to the cashier and suggests I see the huge statue of Crazy Horse that’s being dynamited out of the Black Hills. “Crazy Horse riding his pony,” he says, “is going to make all those Indian-killing presidents on Mount Rushmore look like nothing.” He walks away, a gentle, lumbering man, tattoos, chains, and all.

Before she leaves, my new friend tells me to look out of the big picture window at the parking lot.

“See that purple Harley out there—the big gorgeous one? That’s mine. I used to ride behind my husband, and never took the road on my own. Then after the kids were grown, I put my foot down. It was hard, but we finally got to be partners. Now he says he likes it better this way. He doesn’t have to worry about his bike breaking down or getting a heart attack and totaling us both. I even put ‘Ms.’ on my license plate—and you should see my grandkids’ faces when Grandma rides up on her purple Harley!”

On my own again, I look out at the barren sand and tortured rocks of the Badlands, stretching for miles. I’ve walked there, and I know that, close up, the barren sand reveals layers of pale rose and beige and cream, and the rocks turn out to have intricate womblike openings. Even in the distant cliffs, caves of rescue appear.

What seems to be one thing from a distance is very different close up.

I tell you this story because it’s the kind of lesson that can be learned only on the road. And also because I’ve come to believe that, inside, each of us has a purple motorcycle.

We have only to discover it—and ride.