Modern Homebrew Recipes (5 page)

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Decoction (single)
– A decoction is a fraction of the mash that is removed and boiled separately, often passing through rest steps on the way to the boil. The method is also called decoction mashing, with the number of times the mash is boiled used in the name (single, double, or triple decoction). In the simplest version, the main mash is held at a rest temperature while a fraction (typically one-third the thickest part of the mash) is removed. This decoction is transferred to a separate boil kettle, and then raised to specific temperatures (think of this phase as performing a step infusion mash on just the decoction). However, the final
rest
is at boiling temperature. After the boiling is complete, the decoction is mixed back into the main mash, raising the temperature to the next rest step. A single decoction will always have at least two rest temperatures, with at least one rest being in the saccharification range. The recipe should state the rest temperatures and durations of the main mash, the time when decoctions should be pulled, and the rest temperatures and durations used in the decoction. If the recipe doesn’t say how much of the main mash should be decocted, assume one-third of the thick part of the mash. Boiling of the mash aids in color and flavor development, improves extract, and degrades starches. Some brewers believe decoction mashes are unnecessary and don’t accomplish anything, but I think color changes alone shows that is not true (not to mention flavor improvements, efficiency gains, body development, smoothness, and stability).

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Decoction (double)
– Much like a step infusion is a repeated infusion mash at multiple rest temperatures, a double decoction mash is a repeated decoction. This means that there are two decoctions, (at least three different mash temperatures used). The recipe should
state the main mash rest temperatures and durations, as well as the rest temperature(s) and durations used in the decoctions. The recipe may specify how much of the mash to decoct, but it’s generally around one-third the volume of the thick part of the mash.

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Decoction (
hochkurz
)
– This is a German term meaning
high-short,
and is often used as shorthand for a form of single decoction (or step infusion) mash that starts with a rest at 144–145°F (62–63°C). It’s an additional clarifying detail that explains intent, but doesn’t really add any more information than is contained in the mash program itself. As with other multi-step mash programs, the important points are the rest temperatures, durations, and the methods of heating.

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Hybrid
– My own term, it generally means mixing multiple methods. Most often in my recipes it means adding step infusion to a decoction mash regime. Traditional decoction mash schedules can be simplified by inserting step infusion rests for some of the decoction steps. I highlight this term so that the brewer sees that not all rest temperatures have to be achieved using a decoction. The mash program should specify the rest temperatures, durations, and how the changes in mash temperature are achieved (infusion or decoction).

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Round-trip mash
– My own term again. I start the mash at a higher temperature, then recirculate as if performing a
vorlauf.
Allow the mash to naturally cool to a base temperature, then turn on the heat and start raising temperature until it hits the target (typically, the mashout temperature). This is performed slowly, so that the mash moves through the continuum of temperatures twice. I use this method when I want to maximize fermentability. The initial (high) temperature, base (low) temperature, and final (high) temperature should be specified in the recipe. The rate of change may be specified, but if not, plan for at least 30–40 minutes per phase (high to low, then low to high).

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Cereal Mash
– A traditional method for breaking down starchy adjuncts (such as corn or rice) that don’t have their own enzymes. I typically use flaked forms of adjuncts that can be mashed directly. Consider adding a short (5–15 minute) protein rest to the mash program when using flaked adjuncts.

Finishing the Mash and Lautering

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Mashout
– After the mash is complete, many brewers raise the mash temperature to 166–172°F (75–78°C) and hold it for 5–15 minutes. This helps decrease the viscosity of the wort and improves lautering performance. Some believe it increases mash efficiency; I’m not totally sold on that idea, but it does get the mash closer to boiling temperature so it doesn’t hurt. I often combine this with the
vorlauf
since it lets me meet both objectives simultaneously. On my system, I can direct fire the mash tun while I use a pump to recirculate the wort, so I can increase the temperature to mashout while recirculating. Treat this like another step infusion; the rest temperature and duration should be specified.

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Mash capping
– One of my often-quoted techniques is to hold back the dark grains, dark malts, and crystal malts until after the mash has finished. Add the grains to the mash and let them steep for at least 15 minutes before lautering. I often perform this while heating to mashout temperature, and while I am doing a
vorlauf
(recirculation) to simulate sparging and encourage color and flavor extraction. Using the grains this way reduces the harshness in a beer since the husk materials are exposed to hot water for a much shorter time. There are other benefits as well that are explored in detail when I describe the method later in this chapter. A recipe may specify this method, or you may adjust an existing recipe to use this method by simply holding back any grain that doesn’t need to be mashed until the mash is complete. These grains can be added during a fly sparge, but this approach also works when batch sparging.

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Grain steeping
– An alternative to mash capping is steeping the roasted grains, dark malts, and crystal malts separately, using either a hot steep or overnight cold steep. Separate the liquid from the grain, then mix the liquid back into the boil, either late in the boil or after the boil has concluded. I like the flavors from this method, but it’s more work and I find that I have to use more grains to get the same flavor effect. A recipe that specifies this method should state how long the steep should last, whether hot or cold water is used, and when the steeped liquid should be added to the wort.

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Vorlauf
– This is a recirculation process that is used to clarify the mash runoff by establishing the grain bed as a filter. It is begun by
starting to lauter, but catching the cast wort in a grant and returning it to the lauter tun by pouring it over the top of the mash. On some systems, this may be automated, with the cast wort being pumped directly back on top of the mash. This step is performed until the runoff is ‘clear’, and free from large particles. It can also be combined with mashout and mash capping, if desired. If combining all these steps,
vorlauf
for about 15 minutes. Some recipes might not mention the
vorlauf
because it is simply good brewing practice. I tend to include it in my recipes so that people don’t inadvertently forget the step.

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No Sparge
– This is pretty much like it sounds – lautering without sparging.
Vorlauf
as normal, then run off wort until the mash tun is empty or the target volume is reached. Some recipes or methods might refer to this as catching the
first runnings.
You can often identify a recipe that uses a no sparge technique if it has a low efficiency (more grain required to hit the target gravity), and that the water volume seems low. After the first runnings are collected in the brew kettle, hot brewing liquor is used to top off the kettle to the target volume. The idea of this process is that the first runnings have the best malt flavor, so only those are used. Often used with higher-gravity beers, this method also works well with smaller beers that have a malt-forward profile. The recipe should mention that a no sparge technique is used, since sparging is the typical (or assumed) process.

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Sparge
– Some recipes may specify a fly (or continuous) sparge, or a batch sparge. Fly sparging involves spraying water gently on top of the mash while adjusting the runoff rate to match the sparge rate, so as to maintain a constant level of water on top of the mash. This method can extract unwanted tannins if the sparge water is too hot and at too high a pH above 170°F [77°C] and pH 6.0), so I normally adjust my brewing liquor to pH 5.5 with phosphoric acid to compensate. Batch sparging is like the no sparge technique, except once the lauter tun is drained, it is refilled with hot brewing liquor, remixed, recirculated until clear, and then lautered again. At homebrew volumes they are roughly equivalent methods, provided that sufficient water is used during batch sparging so that the proper starting volume is collected in the kettle.

Boil Techniques

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The default
– The standard boil technique is well-known to every brewer. Heat the wort to a boil in the kettle, boil for the specified period, and then turn it off. Brewers should know the evaporation rate of their system so they can adjust the starting volume to reach the desired end volume. It’s common to use a 60, 75, or 90 minute boil for most beers. The boil should be vigorous enough that bubbles are continually breaking the surface (a “rolling” boil), but not so violent as to cause boilovers. The recipe should state the boil duration, as well as the starting and ending volumes in the boil kettle.

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Kettle caramelization
– A homebrew technique that boils down first runnings, either in the kettle or in an external pot, to create more caramel flavors through the browning of sugar. Typically, the amount of reduction is at least 75%. The process can create diacetyl flavors in the early stages, giving a butterscotch flavor. Care needs to be taken to avoid burning the sugar, which can create a charred flavor. This process is a substitute for brewing sugars or grist formulation, and is not a traditional brewing process. A recipe that uses this technique should specify the amount of first runnings to boil, and how much reduction to achieve. If not specified, assume the first gallon (4 L) is boiled down to a quart (1 L).

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Spice additions
– I have quite a few recipes that use spice additions. I lightly crush the spices and put them in a tightly meshed hop bag. I put the bag in the boil near the end (typically in the last two to five minutes of the boil), and I may let it steep after the boil ends (for up to 10 minutes). I then remove the bag while continuing to process the beer. Limiting the contact time between the spices and the hot wort reduces unwanted tannin extraction. An alternate method is to make a tea out of the spices by pouring boiling water over them, letting them steep, and then straining the spices out. I cool the spiced water and add it in after the boil has ended. I also use this method to adjust the spicing level post-fermentation by making a tea with what spices need boosting, then blending it into the finished beer. The recipe will normally say when and how the spices are to be added, and how long they should stay in contact with the beer. I invariably avoid
dry spicing
or adding whole spices to the cold, finished beer.
This always seems to give a dusty, astringent flavor that ruins the beer. Having the spices exposed to some heat is important for quick extraction of flavors without the excessive tannins. Toasting whole spices gently in a dry pan over moderate heat is another way to intensify the flavors and aromas and bring out more of their essential oils.

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Adding sugar adjuncts
– I normally add sugars, extracts, honey, molasses, or other sugary substances in the last 10 to 15 minutes of the boil. Honey has complex sugars that need some boil time to break down, but boiling the honey also removes desirable aromatics. To maximize its potential, I add honey in the last few minutes of the boil, like an aroma hop. Other sugars can be added at any time during the boil; the goal is to get the sugars dissolved and fully incorporated into the beer. Saving the extra sugars to the end of the boil improves hop utilization due to a lower boil gravity, but adding them at the start of the boil means you won’t forget to use them. The recipe should identify the quantity and type of sugar adjunct, and when it should be added (similar to a hop addition).

Hopping Techniques

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Boiling hops
– The traditional approach of adding hops (in any form) to the boiling wort. Recipes should specify the hop variety, form (pellet, whole, plug, etc.), alpha acid percentage (AA%), quantity (weight), and when they should be added. It is customary to express hop additions in terms of minutes remaining in the boil (e.g., “add bittering hops at 60 minutes” means to add hops with 60 minutes remaining in the boil). Collectively, the set of hop additions for a specific beer is known as the
hop schedule.

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First Wort Hopping (FWH)
– A special form of hop boiling, FWH consists of hops of any form added to the kettle before the boil begins. I typically add mine before I start lautering. FWH provides what many believe is a smoother, cleaner bitterness with significant hop flavor. Measured IBUs for FWH in a 60-minute boil is approximately equivalent to a 65 minute addition on the same system, but subjectively the bitterness level seems lower to the palate. If you want the same bitterness impact with FWH, you have to use more hops not fewer. However, I tend to use FWH more for their flavor than for their bitterness. A first wort hop
addition is expressed the same as a normal boiling hop addition, but the
when they should be added
component is normally expressed as FWH instead of the number of minutes remaining in the boil.