Midnight in Siberia: A Train Journey into the Heart of Russia (38 page)

endurance, 67–70, 82, 86–87, 93–95, 123, 130, 142–43, 157, 182–83, 187–88, 201–3, 207, 222–23, 233–34

“enemies of the people,” 48, 167

energy resources, xv, 8, 49, 178, 211

English Channel, 259

English language, 56, 57, 70, 105, 275, 277, 278, 280, 282, 291

entrepreneurship, 226–27

environmental issues, 255–64

espionage, 23–24, 56, 59, 124–27, 129, 152, 163, 285

Estonia, 8, 32, 76

ethnic minorities, 33, 34–42, 127–28, 143, 174, 266–67, 272, 283–84

ethnic Russians, 34–42

Eurasia, 243

Europe, Eastern, 33

Europe, Western, 33–34, 182, 220

European Court of Human Rights, 117

European Union (EU), 33

Eurovision, 135, 140, 149

“Everybody Wants to Rule the World,” 240

Everyday Stalinism
(Fitzpatrick), 59

executions, 167, 222, 265

Exegi Monumentum
(Pushkin), 14

exile, 46–47, 166–69, 211, 222–23, 256, 260, 263, 287–88

expatriates, 57

eye contact, 6

factories, 64–65, 90, 200, 276

family life, 34–44, 58–61, 74, 97–98 102–113, 135–36, 204, 231, 255–56, 279

Far East, 270, 273

fatalism, 67–70, 82, 86–87, 93–95, 123, 130, 142–43, 157, 182–83, 187–88, 201–3, 207, 222–23, 233–34

fear, 124–27, 128, 151–52, 158, 163, 165, 168, 172, 234–37, 249–50, 251, 265, 285

Fey, Tina, 135

Fiddler on the Roof
, 273

Figes, Orlando, 67, 166, 203, 264–65

fines, 225–27

fire escapes, 225, 227, 228

fireworks, 140–41

first class, 48–49

first names, 65

“First Poet,” 14

Fitzpatrick, Sheila, 59

5–A prisoners, 106

Flintoff, Corey, 170

folklore, 11, 38–39, 83–84, 90, 91

forced relocations, 50, 272–73, 283–84

“foreign agents,” 117, 170, 265

Foreign Policy
, 13

foreign travel, 70, 240, 281–82

forest rangers, 118–19

Fox and Goose pub, 207

freedom, xv, 212–13, 222–23, 263–65

free speech, xv, 212–13

French Press Agency, 262

“friends,” 124–27, 128, 151–52, 158, 163, 165, 168, 172

friendship, 39, 58–61, 115, 119–20, 204, 205, 239, 274–76, 280, 283–84

frostbite, 233–34

FSB, 124–27, 129, 152, 163, 285

Fukuyama, Francis, xiii, xvi

Furtuna, Florentina, 226

Fyodorov, Roman, 40

Gaddy, Clifford, 50, 96, 211–12

Gadhafi, Mu’ammar, 235

Gagarin, Yuri, 157

gangs, 159–62, 176–84, 226

Garrels, Anne, 190–91

gay and lesbian rights, xv, 182

gay marriage, 182

General Electric, 271

Generalissimo
(Karpov), 263–64

generosity, 3–6, 17, 20, 27, 36–37, 84–85, 100, 102–3, 122–23, 128–33, 237–38

geography, 47, 64–65, 210

Georgia, xv, 57–61, 173, 284

Germany, 108, 155, 211

Gia, 58–61, 118, 181, 284

God, 195, 197

Gogol, Nikolai, 9, 12

Golden Eagle train, 48–49

Goldstein, Marissa, 61

gondolas, 247

Gorbachev, Mikhail, 20, 182, 241, 288–89

Gordeyeva, Tatyana, 159

Gorodilov, Andrei, 159–62, 172, 174–89, 199, 227, 228, 230, 237–38, 268, 270, 279

Gorodilov, Viktor, 160, 177–79, 210

gosudarstvo
(state), 15

government, xv, 117, 119, 127–28, 144, 165–72, 178, 183, 199–200, 203–4, 208, 229–30, 236, 240–42, 249–50, 259–68, 271, 279, 280, 283, 284, 289, 290

Grachev, Andrei, 288–89

Granovskaya, Olga, 234–35, 236, 244, 248, 279–85, 286, 287

Granovsky, Dmitry, 279–85, 286, 287

Great Britain, 117, 249, 263

green cards, 282

Greene, David:

American nationality of, 124, 181–84, 277, 286–87

childhood of, 8, 38, 61

democracy as viewed by, 181, 205, 225–26, 240–41, 269

documents of, 44, 51–52, 76–77, 124–25, 151–52, 189–90, 209, 210, 217–18, 227

finances of, 43

at Harvard, 214

interviews by, 108–10, 119, 134–50, 136, 152, 154–57, 229–30, 234–37, 250, 251, 259–61;
see also specific individuals

Jewish background of, 33, 281

as journalist, 32, 35–36, 38, 41–42, 43, 67, 78–79, 108–10, 113, 123–24, 126, 142, 151–52, 205, 234–37, 238, 266–67

in Lancaster, Pa., 220

luggage of, 25 35, 121, 168, 172, 187–88, 189, 252, 253, 259–60

map for travels of, x–xi

in Moscow, 8, 10–11, 19–20, 21, 23–24, 25, 55–57, 122–25

mother’s death and, 38

as NPR Moscow bureau chief, 8, 10–11, 19–20, 21, 23–24, 25, 33, 34–36, 40, 50, 55, 94–95, 97, 105, 109–10, 126, 145, 235, 275

passport of, 124, 217–18

Pittsburgh, Pa., as hometown of, 8, 79, 80, 102, 121, 190

press credentials of, 126

registration process for, 151–52, 189–90

as Russian resident, xvii, 8, 19–24, 32–33, 57, 76–77, 278–79

Russian studied by, 33, 124, 125, 163

security surveillance of, 124–27, 128, 151–52, 158, 163, 165, 168, 172

Sergei Sotnikov as translator for, 34–36, 55–56, 58, 63, 65, 83–91, 145–50, 154–55, 163–64, 165, 224, 250, 274–76

Ukraine visited by, 33–42

U.S. politics covered by, 41–42

visas for, 189–90, 209, 210, 217–18, 227

Greenpeace, 261

Grigoryev, Andrei, 118–19

Grom, 106

Gross, Terry, 156

Gudkov, Lev, 264–65

gulag prison camps, 47, 67–69, 89–91, 106–7, 109, 166–69, 222, 272

Gun, The
(Chivers), 156

Guriev, Sergei, 96

Harding, Luke, 126

Harvard University, 214

health care, 32, 97–98, 116, 128–33, 144, 182, 282

heating, 54, 162, 213

heli-skiing, 242–43

“Hero,” 285

heroin, 290–92

“herring under a fur coat,” 198

Hidden World of Girls, The
, 135

Hill, Fiona, 50, 96, 211–12

HIV, 290–92

hockey, 65–67, 73, 77–91

Holocaust, 108–9, 119

“Holy Fatherland,” 13

hooliganism, 160

Hoover Dam, 250

horse sausage, 130, 132, 157

hospitality, 3–6, 17, 20, 27, 36–37, 84–85, 100, 102–3, 122–23, 128–33, 237–38

hospitals, 97–98, 116

Hotel Rybinsk, 76–77, 83

hotels, 76–77, 83, 152, 216–32, 240, 276–78

Hotel Tranquility, 215–32

hovercraft, 256, 259–60

human rights, 156, 165–72, 186, 269

Hungary, 8, 33

Hunger Games, The
, 80

hunting, 118–19

hydroelectric power, 68–69, 246, 248, 250–51

“Hymn to the Great City, The,” 45

Hyundai Hotel, 276–78

icicles, 87, 92

Ilona, 63–64, 70–71, 72

Ilya, 115, 119–20

“Image of Dual Russia, The” (Tucker), 15–16

immigration, 77, 189–90, 209, 245, 254

immigration cards, 77

individual rights, 13–14, 96, 165–72, 180–81, 186, 269–70, 287

industrialization, 50, 68–69, 80, 83, 90, 190, 200, 219, 276

Ingushetia, 66

insurance, 30

Interior Ministry, Soviet, 168

internal security, 23–24, 56, 73, 92–94, 97, 124–27, 128, 129, 151–52, 163, 165, 168, 172, 230, 234–37, 248, 250, 285

Internet, 73, 160, 161, 192, 194, 217, 255, 261

interrogations, 113–20

intimidation, 124–27, 128, 151–52, 158, 163, 165, 168, 172, 234–37, 249–50, 251, 265, 285

Ioffe, Julia, 13

iPads, 55

iPhones, 122, 162, 232, 245

iPods, 123, 125

Ira, 102, 121, 122

Irkutsk, 223, 229–30, 252, 255–59, 271

iron industry, 190

Ishim, 214–32, 233, 289

Islamic fundamentalism, 44, 66–67, 98

Israel, 272–73

Ivan IV “the Terrible,” Czar of Russia, 203

Izhevsk, ix, 28, 30, 123, 124–25, 138, 150, 151–58, 163, 164

Japan, 218–19, 281

jelly beans, 245

Jewish Autonomous Region, 272–73, 274

Jews, 33, 58, 108–9, 272–73, 274, 281

Jolie, Angelina, 160, 178

justice system, 109–20, 122, 153, 165–72, 176–84, 187, 225–27, 265

Kalashnikov, Mikhail, 123–24, 154

Kalashnikov, Viktor, 154–57

Kalashnikov AK-47 assault rifle, 150, 151–58, 184

Kalashnikov museum, 138, 150–54

Kaliningrad, 108–10

Kamerzan, Alexei, 239–44, 270

karaoke, 133, 142, 150, 277–78

Karash, Yuri, 157

Karpov, Vladimir, 263–64

Kashin, Oleg, 236, 248

Kate, 290

Kazakhstan, 168, 189–90, 191, 209, 210, 289

KGB, 20, 124, 235

Khabarovsk, 254

Khariv, Inna, 268, 273, 284

Khodorkovsky, Mikhail, 49, 119

Khrushchev, Nikita, 169, 241

Kichilin, Ivan, 196–207, 208, 210, 239, 244, 268, 270

kidnapping, 114–15

Kiev, xiv, 34, 40, 288

Kindle readers, 55

kiosks, 83

Kirpinyova, Lyudmila, 108–9

Kissinger, Henry, xiii

Kitchen Sisters, 135

Klyukin, Liubov, 85–91

Klyukin, Nikita, 77–91, 208

Klyukin, Sergei, 86–91

Komarov, Sergei, 245–51

Kommersant
, 236

kommunalka
(communal apartments), 59–60, 118, 181

Kondrashov, Viktor, 229–30

Koneva, Galina, 139, 141–42, 143, 147–49

Kontinental Hockey League (KHL), 78, 85

Kowalski, Stanley, 47

Krasnoyarsk, 245–51, 252

kvartira
(apartment), 85

Kyrgyzstan, 32, 190, 266–67

labor camps, 46, 47, 49, 67–69, 89–91, 106–7, 109, 166–69, 222, 272

Lada automobile, 192, 259

Lake Baikal, ix, 47, 173, 233, 252, 255–64, 270

Lake Tahoe, 255

Lally, Kathy, 144

Lancaster, Pa., 220

landlords, 84–85

Latvia, 8

lavatories, 54, 72, 159

leadership, xiii–xiv, 8–9, 10, 11–17, 32, 51, 119, 140, 161–62, 180–81, 199–200, 203–4, 208, 238, 249–50, 263–69, 283–85, 288–89

Lebanese-Americans, 20, 21

Lebanon, 240

Lenin, V. I., 16, 219

Leningrad, Siege of, 262–63

Leningradsky Voksal, 28

Levada Center, 264–65

Libya, xv, 16, 96, 161

life expectancy, 144

Listvyanka, 256–57

literacy, 55

Lithuania, 8, 108

Litvinenko, Aleksandr, 89

Lokomotiv hockey team, 65–67, 73, 77–91

London Telegraph
, 38–39

lower berths, 63, 98–99, 101, 212–13, 231–32

Lubyanka prison, 124

luggage, 25 35, 121, 168, 172, 187–88, 189, 252, 253, 259–60

Luna bars, 100

Lupolova, Praskovia, 246–47

L’viv, 33

Macmillen, Dmitri, 90

Magnitigorsk Metallurg hockey team, 81

Maria, 43

Marina, 135–58, 220

marriage, 182, 219, 231, 243

Marriott hotels, 76, 240

Marshall University, 65

Marxism, 16

Maxim, 184

Maxim
, 39, 40

McCafe, 75

McDonald’s restaurants, 73–74

media coverage, xv, 23–24, 159, 160, 161, 179, 182, 187, 191, 228, 261, 269

medicine, 32, 97–98, 116

Medvedev, Dmitri, 8

Melikov, Aleksandr, 118

Memorial, 165–72, 242

men, 199, 206–7

menorahs, 274

menus, 74–75, 99–100

Merridale, Catherine, 203

metal detectors, 73, 92–94

meteorite landing (2013), 188, 192–97, 206, 268, 281, 289

Meyers, Steven Lee, 68

middle class, 96–97, 105, 242

Middle East, 16

migrant workers, 46, 245, 254

Mikhail (factory worker), 200

Mikhail (restaurant diner), 277–78

Mikheyev, Alexei, 110–20, 122, 208, 284

Mikheyeva, Lyudmila, 113, 114, 116, 118, 119–20, 208

Mikhovich, Fyodor, 263

military service, 98, 120, 201–2, 204, 207, 255, 276, 280

minisubs, 258, 261–62

Minsk, 127

mirrors, 39

Mr. Putin
(Hill and Gaddy), 96

mobile phones, 178

Mologa, 68–69, 90

Moscow, ix, 8, 10–11, 19–20, 21, 23–32, 36, 43, 44–45, 46, 48–49, 55–60, 64, 75, 92, 95, 122–25, 176, 199, 203, 207–8, 211, 212, 238, 242, 257, 261, 275

Moscow State University, 75

murder, 110–20

museums, 220–24

music, 134–35

Nadezhda, 216–32, 244, 248, 269

Napoleon I, Emperor of France, 211

Natalya (drug addict), 290–91

Natalya (Rose’s friend), 239, 243

National Aeronautics and Space Administration (NASA), 157

National Hockey League (NHL), 82, 85

national identity, 33, 49, 127–28, 143, 202, 266–67

National Public Radio (NPR), 8, 10–11, 19–20, 21, 23–24, 25, 33, 34–36, 40, 50, 55, 94–95, 97, 105, 109–10, 126, 145, 235, 275

natural disasters, 228–29

natural gas, 8, 178

Nazi Germany, 108, 155, 211

Nazism, 108

nerpa
(seal), 256–57

nerpinariums, 257

New Republic
, 13

New Year’s Eve, 140–41

New York, N.Y., 19–21, 22

City Council of, 19

New Yorker
, 13, 25–26

New York Times
, 159, 186

Nicholas I, Czar of Russia, 14, 222

nightlife, 55–57

Nikitenko, Anna, 29–32

9–A prisoners, 106

9–B prisoners, 106

Nizhny Novgorod, 5, 28, 30, 97, 102–22, 123, 270, 284

No. 2
Rossiya
train, 45, 274

No. 8 train car, 52–53

No. 19 train car, 244–45

No. 44 train car, 252–53

No. 240 train, 50–51, 62

No Place to Call Home
(Kowalski), 47

North Atlantic Treaty Organization (NATO), xv, xvi, 235

North Caucasus region, 44, 66, 98, 200, 201–2

North Korea, 173, 276–77, 281

nostalgia, 262–68, 284, 286

Novosibirsk, 231–44, 270

Novotelnov, Nikolai, 68–69

NPR News, 8, 10–11, 19–20, 21, 23–24, 25, 33, 34–36, 40, 50, 55, 94–95, 97, 105, 109–10, 126, 145, 235, 275