Mediterranean Summer (34 page)

Wipe some butter on the griddle, then place the bread on it egg side down. Put 2 pieces of mozzarella on each slice of bread and season with a pinch of salt. Add a slice of tomato to each and season with some salt. Place 2 basil leaves on each. Coat 4 more pieces of bread with the egg wash on one side then place one on each sandwich egg side up. Cook until golden brown on the underside, about 5 minutes. Place a small pat of butter on the top of each sandwich, gently pressing it into the bread. Carefully turn the sandwiches with a spatula. As they start to cook on the other side, gently press down on each to help bind everything together. Cook until the second side is golden brown, an additional 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a baking sheet. Repeat the procedure to make 8 sandwiches.

Bake until the cheese is completely melted and the egg absorbed by the bread is cooked throughout, 12 to 15 minutes. Hold for a couple of minutes or so before slicing, then serve immediately.

Entertaining Note:
The sandwiches can be made up to 1 hour in advance. Just hold off on putting them in the oven until at least 15 minutes before serving. They may need a few more minutes of baking time since the sandwiches will have cooled.

Chef’s Note:
Pair the mozzarella with other fillings—sliced ham, prosciutto or salami, chopped olives, anchovies, hot red pepper flakes, oregano, cooked and chopped spinach, truffles, or try different cheeses like Fontina, Taleggio, or a young Montasio.

Wine Recommendation:
A sparkling white from Sicily, Murgo brut NV or a sparkling red from Lombardy, Sangue di Giuda by Bruno Verde

Baked Crêpes with the Don’s Filling

Crespelle al Forno, Ripiena di Don Alfonso

MAKES 8 FIRST-COURSE OR LUNCH SERVINGS (16 CRÊPES)

This sublime recipe is inspired by the signature ravioli made at Ristorante Don Alfonso near the Amalfi Coast. It is also a version of a Neapolitan dish called
crespelle ripiene,
simply put, stuffed crêpes. When baked, the filling ingredients blossom to a light and cheesy flavor highlighted with ham and basil. When paired with a pungent tomato sauce that cuts through the cheese, the result is a flavor experience the Italians like to call
ottimo
(optimum)!

For the Crêpes:

2 cups all-purpose flour

6 large eggs

2¼ cups whole milk

2 tablespoons grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Grana Padano cheese

2 teaspoons fine sea salt

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

For the Ripiena (Filling):

Two 15-ounce containers whole-milk ricotta

2 large egg yolks

8 ounces fresh mozzarella, grated

2 ounces baked ham (from a deli slice
¹
/
₈
inch thick), cut into small dice

¹
/
₃
cup roughly chopped fresh basil, plus 8 sprigs for garnish

2 tablespoons grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Grana Padano cheese

1½ teaspoons fine sea salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 cups Fresh Tomato Sauce (Recipes)

2 tablespoons grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Grana Padano cheese

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

To make the crêpe batter, sift the flour into a mixing bowl. In another bowl, beat the eggs, then mix to incorporate the milk. Slowly pour the egg mixture into the flour while whisking to create a smooth batter. Pour through a strainer. Add the cheese and the salt. Reserve at room temperature covered with plastic for 1 hour if making crêpes the same day or refrigerate the batter for up to 1 day ahead. Take the batter out of the refrigerator 1 hour before cooking.

To make the filling, stir the ricotta with the egg yolks in a mixing bowl to make them smooth. Mix in the remaining filling ingredients, adding more salt and pepper if needed. The flavor should be a touch salty as for pasta fillings. It can also be made a day in advance and in fact will be even better after the flavors develop overnight.

To make the crêpes, heat a 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium-low heat. Use a paper towel to coat the bottom surface of the pan with ½ teaspoon of the butter. It should lightly sizzle for optimal heat. Stir the crêpe batter, then add ¼ cup to the pan. Keeping the pan near the heat, tilt in each direction so the batter coats the entire bottom surface in an even circle. If it is too thick and doesn’t move easily, add a little milk to the rest of the batter to thin the consistency a touch. Cook the crêpe until dry on the top surface, about 3 minutes. With a rubber spatula, lift the crêpe and turn it over to cook on the other side, 10 to 15 seconds.

Transfer to a baking sheet, then repeat with the rest of the batter, buttering the pan in between crêpes. Space the crêpes on the baking sheet so as each one cools, the next one does not cover it, then make layers. To make the crêpes in advance, stack the cooled crêpes on a plate, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for up to a day. Bring the crêpes to room temperature before separating and filling; otherwise they will tear.

To bake the crêpes, preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a baking sheet. Spread a shy 1/3 cup of the filling evenly over the textured side of each crêpe to about ½ inch from the edge all around (the smooth surface is the side that was cooked first). Fold the crêpes in half, then with the back edge of your hand or index finger gently make an indentation in the crêpe and filling to form a crease perpendicular to the center of the fold. Fold the crêpes in half again to make a quarter of a circle. Transfer to the baking sheet, leaving some space between crêpes.

Bake until the crêpes start to brown and puff, 15 to 20 minutes. Meanwhile, warm the sauce. The consistency should be thin and smooth, so add a little water, a couple tablespoons at a time, if necessary. Arrange the crêpes on a serving platter or on individual plates and offer the sauce on the side or top each with some sauce, about 2 tablespoons per crêpe. Add some grated cheese and a drizzle of the olive oil, then garnish with the basil sprigs. Serve
subito
(immediately)!

Wine Recommendation:
From Campania, a white Pallagrello Bianco from Terre del Principe or a red Aglianico from De Conciliis

Shrimp and Garden Vegetable Cannelloni

Cannelloni con Ripiena di Gamberi e Verdure

MAKES 6 FIRST-COURSE OR LUNCH SERVINGS

This wonderful filling made with shrimp, a few vegetables, and just a little heat from hot red pepper flakes is used to stuff tiny calamari
—calamaretti—
at Ristorante Romano in Viareggio. For flavor and economy, I’ve added fresh bread crumbs to the original recipe, making it delicious as a pasta filling. It is also great as a stuffing for vegetables like zucchini and tomatoes. Or make little patties, coat in dried bread crumbs, and cook as if making crab cakes. Best if the filling is made a day in advance to give the ingredients a chance to marry and develop better flavor.

¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon pure olive oil

1 tablespoon sliced garlic

¼ teaspoon hot red pepper flakes

½ pound green zucchini, grated (about 1½ cups)

½ pound yellow zucchini, grated (about 1½ cups)

1 medium carrot, grated

Fine sea salt

2 to 3 large garlic cloves, peeled and lightly crushed

1 pound large (16–20 per pound) shrimp, peeled, deveined, and cut into ½-inch pieces

2 tablespoons dry white wine

1 large egg yolk

2 cups fresh bread crumbs

2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

12 cannelloni shells

3 cups Fresh Tomato Sauce (Recipes)

Extra virgin olive oil for drizzling

2 tablespoons roughly chopped Italian parsley

Heat 2 tablespoons of the pure olive oil with the sliced garlic in a large sauté pan over medium heat until it starts to brown, about 3 minutes. Add the hot pepper flakes, swirl in the oil, and immediately add the zucchini and carrot. Stir from time to time until the vegetables are soft and begin to break apart, about 20 minutes. The mixture should be fairly dry at this point. Season with salt. Spread the mixture on a baking sheet to cool.

In the same pan, heat another 2 tablespoons of the oil with the crushed garlic cloves over medium heat. Gently shake and tilt the pan so the cloves are immersed and sizzling at one side of the pan in a pool of the oil. As the garlic starts to turn golden, lay the pan flat on the burner, then add the shrimp. Sauté until opaque but still tender, about 2 minutes. Season with salt. Deglaze the pan by adding the wine and scraping any bits from the bottom of the pan. Transfer the shrimp to the baking sheet with the vegetables to cool. Scrape any residual oil and cooking liquid with a rubber spatula out of the pan and onto the shrimp and vegetables.

When the mixture has cooled, working in 2 batches, pulse in a food processor to break down the shrimp into small pieces without pureeing. You can also do this by hand with a chef’s knife. Make sure the mixture is combined evenly. Transfer to a bowl. Adjust the seasoning. Mix in the egg yolk, bread crumbs, and basil. The mixture should be fairly dry and should hold together. Make the mixture up to a day in advance and refrigerate to give the flavors a chance to develop.

Cook the cannelloni shells in salted boiling water until pliable but not too soft since they will cook again when filled. Have a tray ready to cool the pasta instead of running it under cold water. Carefully remove the pieces of pasta with a slotted spoon or skimmer so as not to break them. When the pasta is cool enough to be handled, carefully cut each along the length to open it into a flat piece.

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

Oil a baking dish large enough to hold all of the cannelloni when rolled. Form a log using slightly more than ¼ cup of the filling that is the same length as an opened cannelloni shell. Place it along one edge of the pasta and roll it gently in the pasta, keeping the roll snug. There should be a slight overlap when you finish the roll. Place seam side down in the baking dish. Repeat with the remaining filling and cannelloni. Add ½ cup water to the pan, cover with aluminum foil, and bake for 25 to 30 minutes.

Warm the sauce in a nonreactive saucepan (stainless steel is best). Use a thin spatula to transfer 2 cannelloni per serving to warmed plates or put all of them on a serving platter. Spoon the sauce on top. Finish with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and the parsley. Serve
subito
(immediately)!

Wine Recommendation:
From coastal Tuscany, a white Argentato Bianco from Le Pupille or a red Le Difese from Tenuta San Guido

Linguine with Clams and Zucchini

Linguine con Vongole e Zucchini

MAKES 4 FIRST-COURSE OR LUNCH SERVINGS

A popular and classic
primo
of the Amalfi Coast, this dish can be found on menus throughout the region in countless different versions. This recipe is an adaptation from Ristorante Lo Scoglio in Marina del Cantone. One of the waiters gave me the method after our epic lunch for
la Signora
’s birthday. Small world. I knew him from when I worked at Don Alfonso. He grew up with Alfonso. This camaraderie led to the secret in the recipe to be revealed—the seemingly overcooked zucchini in the method is interesting and makes for very flavorful oil in which to cook the clams.