Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume 2 (90 page)

Turn the saddle right side up, shave off outside fat on each side if you wish, then cut down parallel against backbone and follow its outward curve to slice off the whole loin strip on each side. Slanting knife at a 45-degree angle parallel to board, rapidly slice each strip into cross-grain pieces ¾ inch thick; season lightly with salt and pepper but keep slices in order, so that you may replace them again on the bone. Slice and season tenderloin strips.

Pour the carving juices over the meat; set platter for 2 minutes in oven to give a sizzling impression. Pour a spoonful or two of sauce over the meat, rapidly decorate platter with parsley, watercress, or a vegetable garnish, and serve immediately.

VARIATIONS

Selle d’Agneau, Persillade

[Saddle of Lamb Garnished with Parsley and Buttered Bread Crumbs]

A garnish of bread crumbs sautéed in butter with shallots and seasonings, tossed with parsley, and spread over the finished saddle of lamb is fragrant, attractive, and especially called for when you are carving in the kitchen and serving the reassembled lamb on the saddle bone. Make the
persillade
at any convenient time as long as it is ready to serve with the roast, as follows:

4 Tb clarified butter (melted butter, skimmed; clear liquid butter poured off milky residue)

A medium (10-inch) frying pan

3 Tb finely minced shallots or scallions

1 cup (lightly pressed down) moderately fine, fresh crumbs from non-sweetened homemade-type white bread

Salt and pepper

3 to 4 Tb minced fresh parsley

Melt butter to bubbling in pan, add shallots and stir for 1 minute, then add bread crumbs and stir over moderately high heat for several minutes until a nice, golden brown. Remove from heat, stir in salt and pepper to taste, and set aside. When the meat is on its platter, mix the parsley into the crumbs and spread the
persillade
over the lamb; reheat for a moment in hot oven, and serve.

Selle d’Agneau, Milanaise

[Saddle of Lamb Garnished with Parmesan Cheese and Bread Crumbs]

Another attractive finish to a roast saddle of lamb is to spread on a coating of cheese and bread crumbs, then set it into the oven for a moment to brown. Make the mixture as follows:

4 Tb melted butter

½ cup fairly fine, stale bread crumbs

⅓ cup grated Parmesan cheese

A small bowl

Pepper to taste

Preheat oven to 475 degrees in time for serving. Blend the butter, crumbs, and cheese together in the bowl; season to taste with pepper and set aside. When saddle is roasted, has rested, and is ready to serve, spread on the crumbs and cheese. Set in upper third of pre-heated oven for 2 to 3 minutes to brown lightly; serve immediately.