Maida Heatter's Book of Great Chocolate Desserts (59 page)

OTHER

Confections

Sauces

Chocolate Decorations

Drinks

Bonus Recipes

Confections

FUDGE

PHUDGE

CHOCOLATE RAISIN CLUSTERS

ROCKY ROADS

FRENCH CHOCOLATE MINT TRUFFLES

CHOCOLATE-COVERED STRAWBERRIES

STUFFED FIGS AU CHOCOLAT

CHOCOLATE FONDUE

Toblerone Fondue

Hershey Fondue

Maillard’s Fondue

Fudge

1¼
P
OUNDS

One day recently in Palm Springs, California, I spotted a most attractive shop that sold only homemade fudge. The decor was all blue and white and in the window there was a huge shiny copper cauldron full of boiling fudge. I watched a man make the fudge right there in the window. It was a treat and I was so excited I could hardly wait for him to finish before I asked, “What causes fudge to be grainy?” He answered, “Cooking.” So I said, “What do you mean?” And he said, “You either cooked it too long or not long enough or you cooked it too fast or too slowly. Or you didn’t dissolve the sugar. Or it could be the weather.”

“Thanks, Mister.”

When I decided to write a fudge recipe for this book, I called on my friend Virginia Heffington, the food editor of the
Independent Press-Telegram
in Long Beach, California. I was thrilled to hear that fudge was one of her favorites; she has made it since she was a child in Iowa, and she calls herself “the fudge lady.” She was quite casual about saying that it is not difficult if you follow the rules. Here is Virginia’s favorite recipe.

It begins with an emphatic warning. CAUTION: Humidity causes fudge disasters. Pick a dry day!!!

It is safer to make a small amount of fudge at a time. Unless you are an experienced fudge-maker do not increase the recipe. But if you are, and if you do, increase it only by half. (In which case cook it in a 3½-to 4-quart saucepan.)

Use a candy thermometer.

2 cups granulated sugar

½ cup strained unsweetened cocoa powder (preferably Dutch process)

⅛ teaspoon salt

⅔ cup heavy cream

2 tablespoons light corn syrup

2 tablespoons sweet butter

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2 ounces (generous ½ cup) walnuts, cut or broken into medium-size pieces

Generously butter the sides of a 2- to 3-quart saucepan. Mix the sugar, cocoa, salt, cream, and corn syrup in the pan. Stir over moderate heat slowly and carefully to avoid splashing the mixture on the sides of the pan until the sugar is dissolved and the mixture comes to a boil. Cover the saucepan for 2 or 3 minutes. (Covering the pan causes steam to form, which dissolves any sugar granules that may cling to the sides—one grain of sugar can start a chain reaction and turn the whole thing granular. And the buttered pan helps; incidentally, it also keeps the fudge from boiling over. If the pan has a spout and is therefore not airtight when you cover it, carefully hold a pot holder over the opening.)

Now uncover, and place a candy thermometer in the pan. Boil without stirring until the thermometer reaches 236 degrees or the soft ball stage. (Professionals advise 234 to 236 degrees during cold weather; 236 to 238 degrees during warm weather.)

It is important now not to stir, mix, shake, or disturb the mixture. Very carefully and gently remove the saucepan from the heat. Do not remove the thermometer. Add the butter by simply placing it in the pan and letting it melt; do not stir it.

Let stand until the temperature drops to 110 degrees.

While the fudge is cooling, prepare a pan for it. I like to use a small loaf pan, which makes a 1¼-inch-thick layer of fudge. Mine is called an 8 × 4-inch pan, which measures 7 × 3½ inches on the bottom of the pan. If you use a larger pan the fudge will be just as
good but not as thick. Fold two pieces of aluminum foil to fit the loaf pan, one for the length and one for the width. Press them into place in the pan.

When the fudge has cooled to 110 degrees (at that temperature the bottom of the saucepan will feel comfortably warm on the palm of your hand) remove the thermometer. Add the vanilla. Now, to beat the fudge, use a moderately heavy wooden spatula or wooden spoon. Virginia’s system, which works very comfortably, is to sit and grip the pan between your knees, leaving both hands free to grapple with the spatula. First stir gently to incorporate the melted butter. Then start to stir steadily or to beat, and once you do, do not stop until the fudge is finished.

I think that knowing just how long to beat, and just when to pour, are the most important things in this recipe. And the most difficult to describe. To quote Virginia, “When the candy stiffens and loses its shine you are on borrowed time.” But I think that if you beat until it is stiff or dull, it is too late. Beat until the fudge becomes very thick, or falls in thick gobs, or is thick enough almost to hold its shape when a little is dropped from the spatula. At this stage it should barely begin to lose its shine, but only barely. It should still be slightly glossy.

Quickly stir in the nuts and quickly, with the spatula, push the mixture into the lined pan. It will be too thick to pour. And Virginia says that you should not scrape the pan too well; scraping encourages grainy fudge. Quickly push the fudge into a smooth laver in the pan; it may be easiest to use your fingertips or your knuckles.

The fudge may be ready almost immediately (even while it is still slightly warm) to be cut into individual portions. As soon as it feels firm, but before it hardens, remove it from the pan by lifting the foil, and with a long, sharp knife cut the fudge into portions. I like to make 12 large squares, but you can make 24 or more.

Do not let the fudge dry out. Wrap the squares immediately, individually, in cellophane or wax paper. Or package them in an airtight box.

Fudge is best the day it is made, but it will keep for a few days at room temperature if it is well wrapped. For longer storage, freeze it. It can be frozen for months.

FIRST AID
:
If your fudge turned to sugar, or if it stiffened in the saucepan, or if it crumbled when you cut portions (because you beat too long), add 2 tablespoons of cream and stir over very low heat (cutting up the fudge with the wooden spatula while you stir). Cook and stir only until warm and slightly softened but not until it is hot or thin. Remove from the heat, beat again until smooth and thick, and then turn it out of the saucepan again. (Some cooks think that this twice-cooked fudge is creamier and more smooth than otherwise.)

If you have the opposite problem of fudge that didn’t set, you didn’t cook it long enough or you poured it too soon. If you think that you did not cook it long enough, add ¼ cup of milk or cream, then cook and stir constantly until it reaches 236 degrees again. Cool as above, and beat again.

But if you think that you cooked it enough and simply poured it too soon, transfer the mixture to a marble, tile, or Formica countertop. Then squeeze it between your hands and knead it as though it were bread dough until it is firm enough to hold a shape. Then roll it into a sausage shape, or form it into a square about 1 inch thick. Let stand for just a few moments and then slice the sausage shape or cut the square into portions. (Many fudge-makers think that kneaded fudge is smoother, creamier, better than fudge that has not been kneaded, so they plan accordingly to knead.)

Unless someone wants to lick the pan, the fudge that remains in the pan can be scraped out, kneaded with your hands until it is smooth and creamy, and then rolled between your hands into marble-size balls.

VARIATIONS:
Fudge may be varied in many ways. When the nuts are added you can also add ½ to 1 cup of raisins, cut-up dates, candied cherries, diced candied pineapple, diced candied ginger, or minced candied orange peel. Raisins or dates may be marinated in a bit of rum or bourbon. The nuts can be left out, or you can use any other kind of nuts (if you use almonds they are best if lightly baked), or a variety, or sunflower or pumpkin seeds. A spoon or two of liquor or liqueur can be added along with the vanilla. (A friend makes it with Grand Marnier and candied orange peel.) Rocky Road Fudge has about a cup of miniature marshmallows mixed in with the nuts. Rum Raisin Fudge has 2 tablespoons of dark rum in place of the vanilla and about ½ cup of raisins in place of the nuts (marinate for a few hours or overnight). Apricot Fudge is made with whole dried apricot halves, and then there is prune and apricot—

Phudge

1½
P
OUNDS

This uncooked cream cheese fudge is quick, foolproof, smooth, dark, delicious, and so easy that children can make it.

4 ounces (4 squares) unsweetened chocolate

6 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature

½ teaspoon vanilla extract

⅛ teaspoon salt

1 pound (4 loosely packed cups) strained confectioners sugar

3½ ounces (1 cup) walnuts or pecans, cut or broken into medium-size or large pieces

Place the chocolate in the top of a small double boiler over warm water on moderate heat. Cover until partially melted. Then uncover and stir occasionally until completely melted. Remove the top of the double boiler and set aside uncovered.

In the small bowl of an electric mixer, mix the cream cheese (or stir it by hand in a bowl) until soft and smooth. Add the vanilla and salt. Gradually beat in the sugar and then add the chocolate and beat until smooth. Mix in the nuts.

Now, either line an 8-inch square pan with foil or wax paper and press the fudge into the pan, or shape the fudge by hand on a piece of plastic wrap or wax paper into an even shape about 1 inch thick and 6 inches square, or roll the fudge into a sausage shape about 1½ inches in diameter.

Wrap and refrigerate until firm. It may chill longer. Cut into squares or slices and wrap individually or package airtight.

Refrigerate or store at room temperature. Serve cold or at room temperature. (I like it cold.)

Chocolate Raisin Clusters

1
P
OUND

These are so easy it is ridiculous. But they are delicious. You can make them in 5 minutes (so can a five-year-old), but they must harden for a few hours before serving.

8 ounces semisweet chocolate

⅔ cup sweetened condensed milk

5 ounces (1 cup) raisins

Break up the chocolate and place it in the top of a double boiler over hot water on moderate heat. Stir occasionally until melted and smooth.

Remove the top of the double boiler. Add the condensed milk and stir until smooth, then stir in the raisins.

Use a rounded teaspoonful of the mixture for each cluster, forming 24 clusters and placing them on a piece of aluminum foil.

Let stand at room temperature for about 3 hours until they are firm. Then release each cluster and turn it over to let the bottom dry; they will dry quickly.

Store airtight. Do not let these dry out. They may be frozen. (If you freeze them be sure to let them thaw before unwrapping or they will sweat.)

Rocky Roads

⅓
P
OUNDS

Here’s another quick, easy, and foolproof candy.

1 pound milk chocolate

12 large-size (regular) marshmallows (see Note)

6 ounces (1½ cups) pecan halves or large pieces

Prepare an 8-inch square cake pan as follows: Invert the pan and cover it with a 12-inch square of aluminum foil. Fold down the sides and corners of the foil. Remove the foil, turn the pan right side up, put the shaped foil in the pan and gently press it into place.