Maida Heatter's Book of Great Chocolate Desserts (52 page)

Harlequin

8 P
ORTIONS

This is an adaptation of a recipe by Craig Claiborne and Pierre Franey originally printed in
The New York Times
and called Harlequin Mousse. It was made in a fancy mold. This version is prepared in individual portions in glasses with at least 12-ounce capacity—most attractive if the glasses are clear, plain, stemmed wine glasses.

It is a sort of chiffon-mousse-bavarian: light, creamy, and dreamy—a two-tone dessert, one layer chocolate and one vanilla. Make it the day you serve it or a day ahead (see Note).

You will prepare two separate recipes; the bases of each are prepared individually, but the whipped cream and the egg whites are beaten at one time for both bases. Just take it one step at a time; it is not hard work and, although it does use more mixing bowls than the usual, it is worth it.

4 cups cold milk

2 tablespoons (2 envelopes) unflavored gelatin

1½ cups granulated sugar

2 ounces (2 squares) unsweetened chocolate

1 tablespoon dry instant coffee

2 tablespoons cornstarch

3 tablespoons dark rum

5 eggs (graded large, extra-large, or jumbo), separated (when you separate the eggs, place 2 yolks in one small mixing bowl and 3 in another)

Salt

1 tablespoon cold water

2 tablespoons Amaretto, or 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 cup heavy cream

Set out two saucepans, preferably heavy, each with about a 6- to 8-cup capacity (larger is O.K.). Pour 2 cups of the milk into each saucepan. Sprinkle 1 envelope of the gelatin over each. Stir ½ cup granulated sugar (reserve remaining ½ cup) into each.

Add the chocolate to one of the saucepans and place it over moderate heat. Cook, stirring frequently, until the chocolate is melted and the mixture begins to simmer. Stir in the dry instant coffee. Beat with an electric mixer (on low speed or it will splash) or an egg beater until the chocolate is smooth. Reduce the heat to low.

Place 1 tablespoon of the cornstarch (reserve remaining 1 tablespoon) in a small cup. Add 2 tablespoons of the rum (reserve remaining 1 tablespoon) and stir until smooth. Then gradually, while stirring, mix it into the hot chocolate mixture. Cook, barely simmering, stirring gently for about 2 minutes.

Gradually stir a few large spoonfuls of the hot chocolate into the 2 egg yolks, and then stir the yolks into the remaining chocolate. Stir over low heat for about a minute.

Pour through a fine-meshed strainer set over a medium-size bowl.

Stir in the reserved 1 tablespoon rum. Stir occasionally until cool.

Meanwhile, prepare the vanilla mixture.

Add a pinch of salt to the other saucepan and place over moderate heat. Cook, stirring frequently until the mixture begins to simmer. Reduce the heat to low.

Place the reserved 1 tablespoon of cornstarch in a small cup. Add 1 tablespoon cold water and stir until smooth. Gradually, while stirring, mix it into the hot milk mixture. Cook, barely simmering, stirring gently for about 2 minutes.

Gradually stir a few spoonfuls of the hot milk mixture into the 3 egg yolks, and then stir the yolks into the remaining milk. Stir over low heat for about a minute.

Pour through a fine-meshed strainer set over a medium-size bowl.

Stir in the Amaretto or vanilla. Stir occasionally until cool.

When both mixtures have cooled they must be chilled until they thicken slightly. Partially fill a large bowl with ice and water; place the bowl of chocolate mixture in the ice water and stir it frequently until it thickens slightly, or enough to barely show a mound when a spoonful of it is lifted and then dropped back onto the chocolate.

Meanwhile, place the vanilla mixture in the freezer or the refrigerator and stir occasionally until it thickens to the consistency of a heavy cream sauce.

While the two mixtures are chilling, whip the cream until it holds a soft shape. Gradually add ¼ cup of the reserved sugar (you will still have another ¼ cup for the egg whites) and beat slightly. The cream should only hold a soft shape, it should not be stiff. Set aside.

In the small bowl of the electric mixer add ⅛ teaspoon of salt to the egg whites and beat until they hold a soft shape. Reduce the speed to moderate and gradually add the reserved ¼ cup sugar. Increase the speed again and continue to beat only until the whites barely hold a shape—they should not be stiff or dry.

When the chocolate mixture has thickened enough, stir it gently to be sure it is smooth. Fold in half of the whipped cream (it is not necessary to measure—it does not have to be exact) and then fold in half of the beaten whites.

Set out eight glasses, each with a capacity of 12 ounces or more. Pour the mixture gently into a large, wide-mouthed pitcher and pour it into the glasses, filling each one about halfway.

Now, to set the chocolate mixture quickly, place the glasses in the freezer for about 10 minutes or in the refrigerator a few minutes longer.

Meanwhile, look at the vanilla mixture occasionally; if it starts to thicken too much in the refrigerator, let it stand at room temperature. If it is not thick enough, place the bowl in the ice water and stir almost constantly. When it is thick enough, fold half of it into the remaining whipped cream and then fold that back into the remaining vanilla mixture. Then fold about one-fourth of it into the remaining beaten egg whites and fold that back into the remaining vanilla mixture.

Gently transfer to a large, wide-mouthed pitcher. When the chocolate mixture is partially set, pour the vanilla mixture on top.

The dessert will be ready to serve in a few hours. Refrigerate until then.

This does not need any topping, but if you would like, spoon a bit of whipped cream over each Harlequin shortly before serving, and/or sprinkle the tops with a bit of shaved chocolate (see page 263) or a chunk of Chocolate Slab (see page 263).

NOTE:
If you make this a day before serving, each glass should be covered airtight or it may dry out a bit in the refrigerator. That means that the glasses should not be filled up to the rims; use slightly larger glasses, or just do not fill them all the way.

Crème de la Crème

8 P
ORTIONS

This is an elegant, dome-shaped, molded white cream covered with a paper-thin coating of chocolate—a most impressive and delicious dinner-party dessert that is not difficult to make, but you must allow at least 6 hours for the refrigeration and freezing. It may be made the day before serving or in the morning for that night. It must be frozen for half an hour to an hour just before serving.

2 ounces (½ cup) unsalted green pistachio nuts (other nuts may be substituted)

½ cup cold water

1 tablespoon (1 envelope) unflavored gelatin

3 ounces (¾ stick) sweet butter

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

½ cup granulated sugar

3 egg yolks

¼ cup Amaretto, or 3 tablespoons Cognac or kirsch

1½ cups heavy cream

You will need a plain, round 6-cup metal bowl to mold this dessert—it must be plain and round. (The small metal bowl from my electric mixer is a little larger but it works nicely.) Just have the bowl ready to use later.

Chop the nuts into small pieces and set aside.

Place the water in a small heatproof glass cup and sprinkle the gelatin over the top. Let stand for about 5 minutes. Then place the cup in shallow hot water in a small pan over low heat; stir occasionally with a metal spoon until the gelatin is dissolved. Remove from the water and set aside to cool.

In the small bowl of an electric mixer cream the butter. Add the vanilla and sugar and beat well. Then add the egg yolks and beat thoroughly. On low speed gradually add the gelatin and then the Amaretto or other liquor, scraping the bowl with a rubber spatula and beating only until thoroughly mixed.

Whip the cream only until it holds a soft shape—not stiff—and set aside.

Now chill the Amaretto mixture only until it thickens to the consistency of a thin cream sauce. It may be chilled in the freezer or the refrigerator, stirring occasionally. Or over ice and water, stirring constantly. Either way, watch it carefully—it will thicken quickly.

Stir in the chopped nuts and then fold into the whipped cream. If necessary, pour back and forth gently from one bowl to another to insure thorough blending.

Rinse the plain, round 5- to 6-cup metal bowl with cold water—shake it out lightly, do not dry it. (Do not oil the bowl or the icing will run off the dessert after it is unmolded.)

Pour the dessert into the wet bowl and smooth the top. Cover and refrigerate for 4 hours or longer. (If the dessert reaches the top of the bowl, chill it until set before covering.)

Just before unmolding, prepare a flat serving plate by spreading it with a very thin coating of tasteless salad oil—it is easy to spread the oil with a paper towel. (The oil will make it possible to move the dessert slightly if necessary, and it will also make it easier to clean the sides of the plate after the icing is applied.)

Have a large bowl or a dishpan full of hot but not boiling water as deep as the dessert bowl. With a small, sharp knife cut around the top of the dessert to release it. Then dip the bowl for only a few seconds into the hot water. Quickly dry the bowl and place the dessert plate upside down over the bowl—see that it is centered. Invert the plate and bowl and then remove the bowl. If the dessert doesn’t slip out easily, dip the bowl into the hot water a second time.

Refrigerate while you prepare the icing.