Kneadlessly Simple: Fabulous, Fuss-Free, No-Knead Breads (5 page)

Fats—
Corn oil (or other nearly flavorless vegetable oil), olive oil, and unsalted butter are the types of fat called for in
Kneadlessly Simple
recipes. All three increase crust tenderness, promote browning, and add a pleasant smoothness, or mouthfeel, to the crumb, and in doing so help give various breads their distinctive character. The crust and crumb tenderizing properties increase as the amount of fat increases, which is why fat-laden breads such as brioche have a velvety, cake-like consistency. Olive oil and particularly butter also contribute flavor and aroma, although since all fats are flavor carriers, corn oil heightens the taste of the other ingredients, too. Remember that besides having markedly different flavors, these fats solidify at different temperatures, necessitating completely different methods of incorporation into recipes: Corn oil will stay fluid when added directly to ice water. Olive oil and butter will solidify, so must instead be separately added to dry ingredients or doughs.
Unsalted butter is the best choice for baking bread because the total salt content of the dough is easier to control and because assessing the quality and freshness of butter is easier when it lacks salt. Extra-virgin olive oil also lends a fruitier taste than "regular" olive oil, though either can be used. Due the tendency of all fats to become rancid during storage and their ability to pick up and carry flavors, for good-tasting bread, be scrupulous about using only very fresh butter and oils.

Sweeteners—
Granulated and brown sugar, honey, and molasses (and in one recipe, maple syrup) have the obvious effect of adding sweetness and flavor to yeast breads, and they also promote tenderness and browning. But there are other equally important (though less obvious) consequences to adding sweeteners, and these make it risky to casually increase or decrease amounts or ignore instructions on when and how to add them. In small quantities, the granular sweeteners (white and brown sugar) encourage yeast growth by providing a readily fermentable source of food. But too much granular sugar hinders yeast organisms, because as it dissolves it draws up water they need. Increasing or decreasing liquid sweeteners also dramatically alters the dough by changing the proportion of water, which may necessitate an adjustment in the amount of flour. For best results, use clover honey, "regular" (never blackstrap) molasses, and medium amber maple syrup; these impart flavor without overpowering the other taste and aroma components of bread. Several recipes have been designed so that either honey or molasses can be used; either will work well, though honey delivers more sweetness, and the molasses more color and robust flavor.

Dairy Products—
Milk products, including instant nonfat dry milk powder, buttermilk powder, and yogurt, and eggs are the dairy enrichments occasionally used in
Kneadlessly Simple.
These increase the food value of bread by increasing the protein, fat, sugar, and vitamins and minerals, of course, but are equally important for heightening and deepening flavor, increasing crumb softness and tenderness, and promoting crust browning and sheen. In fact, eggs enhance crust appearance so effectively that they are often used as a finishing wash or glaze that is brushed on loaves. Be sure to use only "drinking quality" name-brand instant nonfat milk; the particles are finer (facilitating easier incorporation into doughs) and the taste is much cleaner and more appealing than that of discount or generic brands.

Seeds, Nuts, and Dried Fruits—
While these additions boost fiber and nutrients, they are even more important in lending character to certain breads by giving them a uniquely appealing appearance, taste, and texture. Sometimes dried fruits and seeds are added during the first rise so they will have plenty of time to plump and soften (or perhaps become chewy), as well as become more digestible. However, where crunchiness is desired, seeds and nuts are added later, either before or after the second rise. In general, when raisins and other dried fruits are added before the first rise, directions call for partially hydrating them by rinsing them under hot water first. This helps ensure that they won't absorb too much moisture and discourage the fermentation and gluten-developing process. This initial partial hydration is often skipped when they are added later, as their gradual plumping during the second rise helps stiffen the dough and ready it for shaping and baking.
Freshness is vital for all these additions: Seeds and nuts are rich in fat, so must be fresh to taste good. And leathery, dried-out raisins, dried cranberries, and such will be tough and tasteless and can even dry out doughs. All these items are usually most economical when purchased in bulk; health food and baking supply stores also turn over their supplies of seeds, nuts, and dried fruits rapidly, which helps to ensure their freshness. Store your purchases airtight and refrigerated.

Possible Problems, Causes, And Remedies

The
Kneadlessly Simple
method is simple and builds in many safeguards, so that most of the problems listed below are very unlikely to occur. But just in case, here are some problems, possible causes, and suggested remedies.

No Visible Bubbling or Dough Rising and No Yeasty Aroma during the First Rise

Yeast was omitted.
Correct the oversight by combining the yeast with ¼ cup flour, sprinkling it over the dough, then stirring vigorously to incorporate.

Yeast wasn't viable (due to improper or overly long storage or use of "expired" yeast).
Correct the problem by adding yeast from a different, fresher package using the method above.

Dense, Heavy Loaf or Insufficient or Extremely Slow Rising

Yeast near or past its expiration date.
Yeast organisms gradually lose potency and eventually die. Even "unexpired" but improperly stored yeast may no longer be fully active and potent, so don't take a chance on it. (Once a yeast packet has been opened, it should be placed in an airtight container, refrigerated, and used within 3 months.)

Insufficient amount of yeast was added by mistake.
Be sure you use the right measure from your set of measuring spoons. Measure out the yeast by overfilling the appropriate spoon (or spoons) and sweeping across the top until the quantity is level.

Excessive quantities of yeast-inhibiting ingredients were incorporated into dough.
Even relatively small quantities of certain spices, herbs, salt, and other ingredients can hinder yeast activity, so resist the impulse to change amounts of recipe seasonings.

Unexpectedly large amounts of whole grains, fat, sugar, and/or salt were incorporated.
Kneadlessly Simple
recipes call for the right amount of yeast to accommodate these yeast-inhibiting ingredients, but if substitutions are made, proportions can be off and cause poor rising.

Rising took place at a very chilly room temperature and/or the dough contained colder than normal ingredients.
If the room or ingredients are unusually cold, factor this in, then simply allow extra time for the dough to rise. It needs to reach the height specified in the recipe.

Loaf was baked before the dough had enough time to rise fully.
Some doughs rise a lot in the oven, others (particularly those with a high percentage of whole grains) don't. Follow recipes on how much doughs should rise before going in the oven.

Too much sugar was added.
Excess sugar makes the dough
look
more fluid, but in fact it actually draws up water, robbing the yeast of the amount needed for vigorous growth. Use only the amount of sugar called for in the recipe.

Dough was left too long during an extended rise in the refrigerator.
Depending on the recipe, loaves should be held in the refrigerator for a maximum of 24 to 48 hours; longer storage reduces yeast potency.

Dough Overflows the Pan During Second Rise or Baking

Dough rose too long or in an overly warm room, causing over-fermentation
If the room is overly warm, always compensate by cutting back on the rising time.

Too much yeast was added by mistake.
The amount of yeast specified in recipes is calculated to produce the right amount of fermentation and rising. Measure carefully when adding yeast.

The pan used was too small.
When dough is put in a pan, at least ¾ inch should remain at the top to accommodate rising. If the dough nearly fills the pan before any rising, the remaining space is insufficient to handle the normal volume increase and the excess dough may hang over the sides. Switch to a bigger pan.

Dough was too moist and soft.
Doughs with too much liquid or insufficient flour to stiffen them can run over the rim as they rise. Be sure to stiffen doughs with more flour before the second rise if this is specified in the directions.

Loaf Sinks in the Center or Completely Collapses

Dough was over-raised before being put in the oven.
Loaves inadvertently allowed to rise too high may not support themselves. If possible, stir down over-risen dough and let it rise the proper amount before baking.

Dough was too wet, which "diluted" the gluten and weighed down the loaf.
Be sure to add in enough flour before the second rise, as directed in the recipe.

Loaf was removed from the oven before interior was baked through.
Carefully check for doneness with a skewer inserted in the thickest part, or, better yet, with an instant-read thermometer as directed in the recipe.

Bread Gummy, Doughy, or Wet-Looking in the Middle or on the Bottom

Loaf was under-baked.
Due to the relative moistness of
Kneadlessly Simple
loaves, they need to be more thoroughly baked than conventional recipes. Check for doneness with a skewer or, if possible, an instant-read thermometer. When the interior seems done, always bake for an extra 5 to 10 minutes to be sure. (If the top is already very brown, cover it with foil first.) An instant-read thermometer is the best insurance against under-baking.

Ingredient proportions were off due to inaccurate measuring.
Adding too much water or fat and too little flour can throw the chemistry out of balance; measure carefully. If you bake often, consider investing in kitchen scales to ensure accurate measuring.

Oven thermostat was off.
Many home ovens run too hot or too cold. If baking times are routinely long and loaves don't brown well or bake thoroughly, check temperatures with an oven thermometer.

Loaf was cut while still hot.
The pressure from the cutting can squash and compact a loaf before it has time to set up and become firm. It's hard to wait, but try to!

Loaf Crust Burns or Browns Excessively Before the Inside Is Done

Loaf was baked on the wrong oven rack.
Most loaves bake best in the lower third of the oven; in most ovens, this means the rack placement slot just below the middle one. When recipes call for baking on the
lowest
rack, choose the rack slot closest to the oven floor.

Oven thermostat was out of whack or temperature was set too high.
Breads containing a lot of dairy products, chocolate, or sweeteners tend to over-brown in a hot (over 375°F) oven. Be sure the thermostat is operating correctly.

A very dark metal pan was used.
Dark pans absorb heat so efficiently that they sometimes over-brown baked goods, especially when loaves contain eggs, fat, sugar, and other enrichments. Switch to a lighter-colored pan.

Loaf was not covered with foil as directed in the recipe.
Enriched doughs naturally brown rapidly and many need to be covered part of the way through baking to prevent over-browning It's a good idea to occasionally check browning progress during baking, as not all ovens brown at the same rate.

Crust Looks Pale or Under-Browned

Oven thermostat was off, temperature was set too low, or preheating time was too short.
Lean doughs (those lacking fat, sugar, milk, and eggs) need a high temperature (over 375°F) for good browning, especially during the first 15 minutes of baking.

Required wash, glaze, or spritz of water was omitted.
Some lean doughs call for an egg wash, glaze, or spritz of water to encourage crust browning. If it is omitted, they will look pale.