Into Thin Air
Praise for Jon Krakauer’s
INTO THIN AIR
“A book that offers readers the emotional immediacy of a survivor’s testament as well as the precision, detail, and quest for accuracy of a great piece of journalism.… It is impossible to read this book unmoved.”
—ENTERTAINMENT WEEKLY
“Brilliant, haunting.… This is an angry book, made even more so by the fact that hardly anyone seems to have learned a thing from the tragedy.”
—SAN FRANCISCO EXAMINER
“Every bit as absorbing and unnerving as his bestseller,
Into the Wild
.”
Into the Wild
.”
—THE NEW YORK TIMES
“A searing book.”
—OUTSIDE
“Krakauer is an extremely gifted storyteller as well as a relentlessly honest and even-handed journalist, the story is riveting and wonderfully complex in its own right, and Krakauer makes one excellent decision after another about how to tell it.… To call the book an adventure saga seems not to recognize that it is also a deeply thoughtful and finely wrought philosophical examination of the self.”
—ELLE
“Krakauer introduces the many players until they feel familiar, then leads the reader with them up the mountain and into the so-called ‘Death Zone’ above 25,000 feet.”
—SAN FRANCISCO CHRONICLE
“Time collapses as, minute-by-minute, Krakauer rivetingly and movingly chronicles what ensued, much of which is near agony to read.… A brilliantly told story.”
—KIRKUS REVIEWS
“[Krakauer] proves as sure-footed in prose as he was on the mountain … quietly building the suspense as we follow the ill-fated expedition through its preparation and shakedown forays, and then delivering a lucid, blow-by-blow account of the cataclysmic storm and the death and agony following in its wake.”
—THE NEW YORK OBSERVER
“
Into Thin Air
reads like a fine novel—the main characters breathe their way through a plot so commanding, the book is hard to put down.”
Into Thin Air
reads like a fine novel—the main characters breathe their way through a plot so commanding, the book is hard to put down.”
—AMAZON REVIEWS
“Make room on your shelf for mountaineering classics.… Krakauer’s grip on your emotions will leave you gasping for breath.”
—LOS ANGELES TIMES
“[A] riveting account of events leading to the death of guides Rob Hall and Scott Fischer, assistant Andy Harris and two clients.”
—BOSTON HERALD
“[A] gripping analysis of the tragedy.”
—THE TENNESSEAN
“
Into Thin Air
is the … intense, taut, driving account of what happened. It is an engrossing book, difficult for the reader to put down … superbly reported.”
Into Thin Air
is the … intense, taut, driving account of what happened. It is an engrossing book, difficult for the reader to put down … superbly reported.”
—ROCKY MOUNTAIN NEWS
“Astounding … honest … eloquent.… Through objective and thorough research and in sparkling prose, Krakauer tells a story that arouses fury, disgust, admiration and tears.”
—THE TIMES-PICAYUNE (NEW ORLEANS)
“Meticulously researched and exceptionally well-written,
Into Thin Air
avoids the hype and easy condemnation that have infested other accounts. The book offers instead vivid details told matter-of-factly, almost quietly. The result is a deeply moving narrative that honors the courage of the people on the mountain while raising profound and possibly unanswerable questions about human behavior in a crisis.”
Into Thin Air
avoids the hype and easy condemnation that have infested other accounts. The book offers instead vivid details told matter-of-factly, almost quietly. The result is a deeply moving narrative that honors the courage of the people on the mountain while raising profound and possibly unanswerable questions about human behavior in a crisis.”
—NASHVILLE BOOK PAGE
“Jon Krakauer offers fresh insights into the tragedy in his superb
Into Thin Air
, in which he adroitly sifts through the misunderstandings, miscalculations and misguided zeal that led his fellow climbers to their doom. His new book is, on every level, a worthy successor to his outstanding
Into the Wild
.”
Into Thin Air
, in which he adroitly sifts through the misunderstandings, miscalculations and misguided zeal that led his fellow climbers to their doom. His new book is, on every level, a worthy successor to his outstanding
Into the Wild
.”
—THE PLAIN DEALER
“A taut, harrowing narrative of the most lethal season in Everest’s history … Krakauer offers a disturbing look at how technology, publicity, and commercialism have changed mountaineering.”
—WISCONSIN STATE-JOURNAL
“Just as he did in his previous book, the acclaimed
Into the Wild
, Krakauer employs exhaustive reporting, attention to detail, and a crisp, unpretentious writing style to shape the story.”
Into the Wild
, Krakauer employs exhaustive reporting, attention to detail, and a crisp, unpretentious writing style to shape the story.”
—HARTFORD COURANT
“The intensity of the tragedy is haunting, and Krakauer’s graphic writing drives it home.”
—PUBLISHERS WEEKLY
“[Krakauer] has produced a narrative that is both meticulously researched and deftly constructed.… His story rushes irresistibly forward.”
—THE NEW YORK TIMES BOOK REVIEW
“Though it comes from the genre named for what it isn’t (nonfiction), this has the feel of literature: Krakauer
is
Ishmael, the narrator who lives to tell the story but is forever trapped within it.… Krakauer’s reporting is steady but ferocious. The clink of ice in a glass, a poem of winter snow, will never sound the same.”
is
Ishmael, the narrator who lives to tell the story but is forever trapped within it.… Krakauer’s reporting is steady but ferocious. The clink of ice in a glass, a poem of winter snow, will never sound the same.”
—MIRABELLA
“Every once in a while a work of nonfiction comes along that’s as good as anything a novelist could make up …
Into Thin Air
fits the bill.”
Into Thin Air
fits the bill.”
—FORBES
“Deeply upsetting, genuinely nightmarish.… Krakauer writes indelibly.… He’s brilliant.… His story contains what must be one of the essences of hell: the unceasing potential for things to become worse than you fear.”
—SALON
“
Into Thin Air
is a remarkable work of reportage and self-examination.… And no book on the 1996 disaster is likely to consider so honestly the mistakes that killed his colleagues.”
Into Thin Air
is a remarkable work of reportage and self-examination.… And no book on the 1996 disaster is likely to consider so honestly the mistakes that killed his colleagues.”
—NEWSDAY
“Jon Krakauer combines the tenacity and courage of the finest tradition of investigative journalism with the stylish subtlety and profound insight of the born writer. His account of an ascent of Mount Everest has led to a general reevaluation of climbing and of the commercialization of what was once a romantic, solitary sport, while his account of the life and death of Christopher McCandless, who died of starvation after challenging the Alaskan wilderness, delves even more deeply and disturbingly into the fascination of nature and the devastating effects of its lure on a young and curious mind.”
—ACADEMY AWARD IN LITERATURE
CITIATION FROM THE AMERICAN
ACADEMY OF ARTS AND LETTERS
ALSO BY JON KRAKAUER
Iceland
Eiger Dreams
Into the Wild
Under the Banner of Heaven
JON KRAKAUER
INTO THIN AIR
Jon Krakauer is the author of
Eiger Dreams, Into the Wild, Into Thin Air, Under the Banner of Heaven
, and
Where Men Win Glory
, and is the editor of the Modern Library Exploration series.
Eiger Dreams, Into the Wild, Into Thin Air, Under the Banner of Heaven
, and
Where Men Win Glory
, and is the editor of the Modern Library Exploration series.
Anchor Books Mass-Market Edition, August 2009
Copyright © 1997 by Jon Krakauer
Map copyright © 1997 by Anita Karl
Postscript copyright © 1999 by Jon Krakauer
All rights reserved. Published in the United States by Anchor Books, a division of Random House, Inc., New York, and simultaneously in Canada by Random House of Canada Limited, Toronto. Originally published in hardcover in the United States by Villard Books in 1997. The Anchor Books edition is published by arrangement with Villard Books.
Anchor Books and colophon are registered trademarks of Random House, Inc.
Portions of this work were originally published in
Outside
.
Outside
.
Library of Congress Cataloguing-in-Publication Data
Krakauer, Jon.
Into thin air: a personal account of the Mount Everest
Disaster/Jon Krakauer.—1st Anchor Books ed.
p. cm.
Originally published: New York: Villard, c1997.
1. Mountaineering accidents—Everest, Mount (China and Nepal).
2. Mount Everest Expedition (1996). 3. Krakauer, Jon. I. Title.
[GV199.44.E85K725 1998]
796.52′2′092—dc21 97-42880
eISBN: 978-0-679-46271-2
www.anchorbooks.com
v3.1_r1
For Linda;
and in memory of Andy Harris, Doug Hansen
,
,
Rob Hall, Yasuko Namba, Scott Fischer, Ngawang
Topche Sherpa, Chen Yu-Nan, Bruce Herrod
,
,
Lopsang Jangbu Sherpa, and Anatoli Boukreev
Contents
Cover
Other Books by This Author
About the Author
Title Page
Copyright
Dedication
Epigraph
Map
Introduction
Chapter One - Everest Summit: May 10, 1996 • 29,028 Feet
Chapter Two - Dehra Dun, India: 1852 • 2,234 Feet
Chapter Three - Over Northern India: March 29, 1996 • 30,000 Feet
Chapter Four - Phakding: March 31, 1996 • 9,186 Feet
Chapter Five - Lobuje: April 8, 1996 • 16,200 Feet
Chapter Six - Everest Base Camp: April 12, 1996 • 17,600 Feet
Chapter Seven - Camp One: April 13, 1996 • 19,500 Feet
Chapter Eight - Camp One: April 16, 1996 • 19,500 Feet
Chapter Nine - Camp Two: April 28, 1996 • 21,300 Feet
Chapter Ten - Lhotse Face: April 29, 1996 • 23,400 Feet
Chapter Eleven - Base Camp: May 6, 1996 • 17,600 Feet
Chapter Twelve - Camp Three: May 9, 1996 • 24,000 Feet
Chapter Thirteen - Southeast Ridge: May 10, 1996 • 27,600 Feet
Chapter Fourteen - Summit: 1:12 P.M., May 10, 1996 • 29,028 Feet
Chapter Fifteen - Summit: 1:25 P.M., May 10, 1996 • 29,028 Feet
Chapter Sixteen - South Col: 6:00 A.M., May 11, 1996 • 26,000 Feet
Chapter Seventeen - Summit: 3:40 P.M., May 10, 1996 • 29,028 Feet
Chapter Eighteen - Northeast Ridge: May 10, 1996 • 28,550 Feet
Chapter Nineteen - South Col: 7:30 A.M., May 11, 1996 • 26,000 Feet
Chapter Twenty - The Geneva Spür: 9:45 A.M., May 12, 1996 • 25,900 Feet
Chapter Twenty-One - Everest Base Camp: May 13, 1996 • 17,600 Feet
Epilogue - Seattle: November 29, 1996 • 270 Feet
Author’s Note
Postscript
Selected Bibliography
Acknowledgments
Men play at tragedy because they do not believe in
the reality of the tragedy which is actually being
staged in the civilised world
.
.
—José Ortega y Gasset
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