India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (396 page)

2 A.J.C. Bose Rd., Darjeeling 734 101.
0354/225-3092
or -3347. Fax 0354/225-3298.
www.dekeling.com
. 4 units (with showers). Rs 2,900 double without meals; Rs 4,350 double with meals. Up to 40% discount off season. AE, MC, V.
Amenities:
Dining room; library; lounge; room service. In room: TV, fireplace.

The Glenburn Tea Estate
Homestays are aplenty in India, as are tea gardens and luxurious resorts, but a combination of all three is very rare. The creative offspring of the dynamic Husna-Tara Prakash, Glenburn centers around the 100-year-old Burra Bungalow and Water Lily Bungalow, each with separate sitting rooms and fire place, and a traditional common dining room where multicourse meals are served in true planter’s style. Each of the rooms is unique and makes delightful use of space, light, and color. Add to that the gorgeous views of the Kanchenjunga that can be had from the sit-outs and verandas, and you can see why we think Glenburn is a little chunk of heaven. Trails wind through pockets of forest or slopes of tea all the way from 1,110m (3,700 ft.) to the banks of the rivers Rungeet and Rung Dung, across which lies the neighboring state of Sikkim. Picnics are served by liveried bearers on portable tables complete with a tablecloth, delicate crockery, and a vase of fresh flowers—all that is lacking is a chandelier.
Note:
Guests have an option to enjoy the day or even stay overnight at the Glenburn Lodge by the river, without giving up their room at the Bungalow—the two rooms here are simple but charming, especially at night when bathed in the orange glow of hurricane lamps (no electricity) with only the burbling of the river for music.

City Office: Kanak Bldg.,
41, Chowringhee Rd., Kolkata 700 071. Darlene Khan
033/2288-5630 or -1805; Husna-Tara Prakash
98-3007-0213. Fax 033/2288-3581.
www.glenburnteaestate.com
. U.K.
+44
(0)1295/758-150.
www.mahoutuk.com
. 8 units: Rs 18,000 double; Rs 12,000 single; Rs 6,000 extra person; Rs 2,500 child 3–15. Children under 3 stay free in parent’s room. Entire estate rental: Rs 1,300,000 per night. 10% discount for stays of 4 nights or more. Off-season discounts mid June to mid Sept. Complimentary tea, coffee, mineral water, fresh juice, and soft drinks; day trips to Darjeeling town/Kalimpong. MC, V. Amenities: Dining; fishing; library; board games; massage and reflexology; guide/naturalist; river rafting; shop; vehicle at disposal. In room: Electric blankets, fireplace (except Rose and Kanchenjunga suites), fresh fruit and flowers, heater, hot water bottles.

Mayfair Hill Resort
Once the summer palace of the Maharajah of Nazargunj, this class act has warmer staff and better ambience than popular New Elgin, and the views are far superior. Two copper elephants guard the entrance of the main building, and a signboard informs guests of daily weather conditions. It’s set in a lovely garden with potted plants, sculpted deities, and its own temple. The partially wood-paneled guest rooms—in ivy-covered buildings, which feel more like cozy cottages—are a tad feminine (floral fabrics, predominantly pink) but lovely, featuring Tibetan rugs, fireplaces, fine wooden furnishings, bay windows with seats, and entrance/dressing rooms. They receive plenty of natural light and enjoy superb views of the town, the mountains, and the valley below. The tiled, well-spaced bathrooms have good shelving and vintage-style free-standing wooden towel racks. Guests are allowed use of sports facilities at the Darjeeling Gymkhana Club.

Opposite Governor’s House, The Mall, Darjeeling 734 101.
0354/225-6376
or -6476. Fax 0354/225-2674.
www.mayfairhotels.com
. 44 units. Rs 9,000 deluxe double. Rs 2,500 extra bed. Rates include all meals. MC, V.
Amenities:
Restaurant; bar; babysitting; billiards; currency exchange; doctor-on-call; health club and tennis privileges; ice-skating; library; pool table; squash; tea-leaf shop; travel assistance. In room: TV, DVD player, fireplace, hair dryer, heater.

WHERE TO DINE

The following recommendations are all within walking distance of each other; ask for directions before you set out. For Tibetan food,
Dekevas Restaurant
(
0354/225-4159;
no credit cards) has some delicious favorites, including
momos
(dumplings) and wonton soup, with a choice of chicken, pork, or vegetable as a base. Try a delicious
shabalay,
Tibetan pie filled with mince, onion, and spring onion; spice it up with a hint of chili sauce. Also sample the awesome
tsampa
—roasted barley served with cheese, butter, and a glass of milk. For those extracold days, it has a selection of soups. Also available are Chinese dishes, pizzas, and burgers. Adjacent is the no-frills matchbox-size
Kunga,
where the beef or pork
thenthuk
(flat noodles) soup is excellent. At
Lemon Grass
(also known as The Park), you can order from the Thai or Indian menu—the Indian tandoori chicken is a standout (
0354/225-5270;
no credit cards). Part of a three-floor food center, with a delicatessen and Internet cafe one floor below and an American diner at the basement level,
Glenary’s
has been serving guests since 1935. Although staff may boast about the Continental cuisine, the best options are Indian—try
mahi tikka
(spicy fish tandoori) or
bhuna gosht,
a mutton curry cooked with ginger, garlic, and masala in its own juices (
0354/225-7554
). A new addition in the basement, the
Buzz
acts as a pub, dishing out great music and hosting live bands in the evenings from Thursday to Sunday.
Joey’s Pub
(
0354/225-8216;
no credit cards) is your quintessential bar, and that just about sums up Darj’s nightlife. Spectacular views of Mount Kachenjunga make
Keventer’s Snack Bar
(1 Nehru Rd.;
0354/225-6542
or -4026) something of a Darjeeling institution, even if the food is nothing to write home about. Sit upstairs on the terrace for breakfast served by disaffected waiters. Darjeeling also boasts an
Inox multiplex
and
Rink Mall
where you can have a good cuppa at the tea lounge or Café Coffee Day. Finally, for Nepali cuisine (a must if you’re in the region), there’s no better place than
Penangs
(just opposite the Rink Mall on the first floor of a shabby building), where you should order the traditional Nepali thali (multicourse platter) and
momos
(dumplings).