India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (92 page)

But if it’s real authenticity you’re looking for, head to the no-frills
Thaliwala’s Bhoj
(Kamgar Bhavan, Bhau Phatak Smruti Rd., opposite Hotel Kartiki;
0240/235-9438
) and order a
thali
for a mere Rs 70 (to find out what to expect, see “The
Thali
: A Meal Unto Itself”). Waiters (who generally don’t speak a syllable of English) will fill your platter with wonderful concoctions—mop it all up with savory, freshly prepared
chapatti,
and you’re sure to be a convert. Finally, for a pleasant lunch on the way back from Ellora, try
Ambience,
which belongs to the same group that owns the excellent Tandoor restaurant in Aurangabad (see above). It’s set in pleasant gardens 12km (7 1⁄2 miles) outside the city, in the vicinity of Daulatabad Fort. The place is also a lovely, atmospheric venue for dinner. Contact the manager (
0240/261-5995;
daily 9am–midnight), or inquire at Tandoor.

Chapter 6: Goa: Party in Paradise

Nirvana for dropouts, flower children, and New Age travelers since the late 1960s, Goa peaked as a hippie haven in the ’70s, when Anjuna Beach became a rocking venue for party demons and naturalists who would sell their last piece of clothing at the local flea market for just enough cash to buy more dope and extend their stay. For many, Goa still conjures up images of all-night parties and tripping, naked hippies sauntering along sun-soaked beaches. But there is more to this tiny western state than sea and sand, dropouts, and hedonists. Goa’s history alone has ensured that its persona, a rich amalgam of Portuguese and Indian influences, is unlike any other in India.

Arriving in 1498, the Portuguese christened it as the “Pearl of the Orient” and stayed for almost 500 years (forced to leave, finally, in 1961—the last Europeans to withdraw from the subcontinent), leaving an indelible impression on the local population and landscape. Goans still take a siesta every afternoon; many are Catholic, and you’ll meet Portuguese-speaking Mirandas, D’Souzas, and Braganzas, their ancestors renamed by the colonial priests who converted them, often by force. Garden Hindu shrines stand cheek-by-jowl with holy crosses, and the local
vindaloo
(curry) is made with pork. Dotted among the palm groves and rice fields are dainty villas bearing European coats of arms and imposing mansions with wrought-iron gates—built not only for European gentry but for the Brahmins who, by converting, earned the right to own land.

Over the past decade Goa has become more hip than hippie, with well-heeled Indians frequenting the new rash of flashy international-style restaurants and design-conscious furniture and lifestyle stores at which they shop in order to adorn their ostentatious Goa mansions. Joining them every winter are the white-skinned package tourists, who come to indulge in the commercialized trance culture, and Indian youngsters who cruise from beach to beach, legs wrapped around cheap motorbikes and credit cards tucked into their Diesel jeans.

Goa is a more laid-back, “anything goes” version of India, a cosmopolitan tourist-oriented place of five-star resorts, boutique guesthouses, and ever more enchanting villas remodeled for international travelers. In many ways Goa is the perfect introduction to a country that, elsewhere, can be very challenging. Of course, when the crowds arrive, particularly over New Year, Goa’s beaches and markets are anything but tranquil. Sun beds and shacks line the most commercial beaches, and hawkers haggle ceaselessly with droves of Europeans here to sample paradise at bargain prices while Mumbai and Bangalore puppies crowd the shoreline bars and restaurants. If it’s action you’re after, there are endless opportunities for all-night partying and reckless abandon. But Goa’s true pleasures are found away from the crowds, on the more remote beaches to the far north and south, on the semiprivate beaches adjoining luxury resorts, or in the charming guesthouses farther inland. Come for at least 3 days, and you may end up staying for a lifetime—as a number of very content expats from around the world will attest to. However you decide to play it, live the local motto,
“Sossegade”:
“Take it easy.”

Mayhem in Paradise: When Not to Get Your Goa Groove On

Every year from December 23 to January 7, tens of thousands of tourists, both domestic and foreign, descend on Goa, so if you plan to spend Christmas or New Year’s here, expect to negotiate crowds everywhere, particularly along the bursting-to-the-seams Baga-Candolim stretch. You can avoid the crowds to some extent by confining yourself to your hotel or guesthouse, but all the popular bars and restaurants will be filled to capacity, with queues so long they can cause traffic jams. Besides, everything—particularly accommodations—will be extremely expensive at this time (room and villa rates virtually double up on the already extravagant high season rate that runs from Nov through mid-Mar); many places also tack on an additional surcharge for the in-house “festive party” (even if you don’t plan to attend). If loud and raucous merriment (accompanied by a definite sense of being ripped off) is not your style, avoid Goa during this time; your money will go twice the distance here once the sardine-format revelers have departed. On the other hand, the best-value period is the summer and postmonsoon season (mid–Mar through May and Oct), when prices are reasonable, crowds thinner, and the whole vibe a damn sight more mellow; you may find yourself at a loose end if you’re looking to get your party shoes on, though.

1 Arrival & Orientation

Goa

ESSENTIALS

GETTING THERE
By Air
The state capital is Panjim (also called Panaji), which is pretty much centrally located;
Dabolim
Airport
lies 29km (18 miles) south. It’s possible to fly directly to Goa from Europe, as many travelers arriving on charter flights from the U.K., Germany, Holland, Switzerland, and Scandinavia do. A more likely scenario is that you’ll be capping off your wider India trip by letting your hair down here; for that you can fly in from Mumbai (a mere 40 min.) or Delhi, as well as from Kolkata, Chennai, Kochi, Hyderabad, Bangalore, and Ahmedabad. If you really cannot wait to sink your toes into the Goan sea sand, your best bet is to book a direct flight from London with
Kingfisher
(
www.flykingfisher.com
); there’s a short stopover in Mumbai before you hop on a connecting plane and commence your holiday immediately. See for details on alternate airlines offering the best and/or cheapest service for domestic flights in and out of Goa. There’s a helpful government
tourist desk
(
0832/251-2644
) in the baggage-claim hall. A few hotels offer complimentary airport transfers, but more often than not, you’ll be charged for the service; you can either arrange this in advance (when making your reservation), or make use of the
prepaid taxi
counter, which eliminates the need for any bargaining and haggling over price. The trip to Panjim should cost Rs 490; for destinations in north Goa you’re looking at between Rs 650 and Rs 1,250; slightly less for the resorts along the central coast; and a little pricier if you go all the way to Palolem. Given Goa’s popularity with both international and domestic tourists, prebooking your accommodations here is essential, and don’t fall for a tout’s offer of “discount” lodgings—chances are the rooms will look like they fell off the back of a bus.

By Train
Goa’s three main jumping-off points are
Thivim
in the north (20km/12 miles inland from Vagator),
Karmali
(12km/7 1⁄2 miles from Panjim), and
Madgaon
(also known as Margao) for the resort-intensive central coastal stretch. If you’re going straight to Palolem, or any of the gorgeous beaches in the far south, jump off at
Canacona,
also known as Chaudi.
Several trains travel daily from Mumbai to Goa along the
Konkan Railway;
most of these take a good 10 to 13 hours, so it’s best to book the overnight
Konkan Kanya Express,
which leaves Mumbai at 11pm and gets into Madgaon at 10:45am. For a slightly quicker option, you’ll need to get up real early for the 5:10am
Mumbai-Madgaon Jan Shatabdi
(from Victoria Station; Thurs–Tues), which (theoretically) reaches Madgaon by 1:55pm. If you’re traveling from the south, catch the 11am
Matsyaganda Express
from Mangalore to Madgaon (61⁄2 hr.); the trip offers mesmerizing views along the Konkan coast. Note that it’s worthwhile to book your seat in your home country (
www.irctc.co.in
or
www.konkanrailway.com
), especially if you plan to head to Goa soon after your arrival in India or in peak season when trains between Mumbai and Goa are often fully booked; you may also ask your Mumbai hotel concierge to take care of it. For railway inquiries, call
Madgaon
(
0832/271-2790;
reservations
0832/271-2940
). Taxis and auto-rickshaws are readily available at all the stations waiting to zip you off to your hotel.