India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (393 page)

Chakratirtha Rd., Puri 752 002.
06752/22-7800
through -7809. Fax 06752/22-4242.
www.mayfairhotels.com
. 34 units. Rs 6,000 deluxe room/cottage; Rs 9,000 premier suite. Rs 1,000 extra person. Ask about discounts. AE, MC, V.
Amenities:
2 restaurants; 2 bars; airport transfers (Rs 2,500); currency exchange; doctor-on-call; indoor games; health club with steam and Jacuzzi; outdoor pool; pool table; room service; table tennis. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, Wi-Fi (Rs 331/hr., Rs 899/day).

Where to Dine

Besides
Mayfair’s Aquarium & Veranda
(
06752/22-7800;
www.mayfairhotels.com
), where you can sample Orissan seafood specialties (
chingudi tarkari,
prawns prepared in a traditional Orissan gravy, is delicious), you can dine at
Wild Grass
(V.I.P. Rd.;
06752/22-9293;
daily 11am–11pm), a self-consciously eco-friendly open-air restaurant set in a lush garden with stone and slate pathways and tables arranged in various nooks at different levels. Come for the delightful ambience, but don’t expect the most spectacular food or service. One of the highlights here is an Orissan thali, but it must be ordered at least 2 hours in advance (well worth it). Grilled
brinjal
(eggplant, known as
baigan poda
) is another favorite; or try tandoori prawns,
nargisi
fish kebab, or prawn
malai
curry. For dessert, try the local cheesecake,
chhena poda.
Restaurant Peace
is an utterly laid-back cafe-style eatery with plastic chairs under thatched roofing; it opens early and serves the best bowl of muesli in India. A genuinely huge portion of fresh fruit, mixed nuts, curd, and honey is a perfect way to start the day (C.T. Rd.;
06752/22-6642;
no credit cards; daily 7am–11pm).

Tribal Tours in Orissa

Venturing into Orissa’s tribal heartland is a true off-the-beaten-track adventure, allowing you to meet people with social, cultural, and agricultural practices that have remained unchanged for centuries. Many of Orissa’s tribal people are still hunter-gatherers, and are physically distinct from any other ethnic group on the subcontinent. Opportunities for travelers to interact with members of these unique societies are generally limited to weekly markets held at various tribal centers. Visitors with an especially strong interest in anthropology can arrange to spend a night or two in a traditional village, but expect plenty of walking—and forget any modern conveniences. You may, however, want to consider the fact that you will be visiting one of India’s poorest regions. Also check whether any of the spoils of your tourist venture are actually reaching these village folk. Visitors have reported that some tribal tours are exploitative, making a freak-show/spectacle of the poor. In Puri, your best option for a responsibly organized tribal tour is
Heritage Tours
; to ensure that a suitable trip is planned around your specific interests, e-mail the highly knowledgeable Bubu in advance (
06752/22-3656
or
94-3702-3656;
www.heritagetoursorissa.com
). A typical tribal tour for two persons will cost in the vicinity of $70 to $100 per person per day, for a minimum of 6 or 7 days. The fee factors in the services of a guide, an Ambassador car and driver, food, and (ultra-basic) accommodations.

3 Darjeeling

500km (310 miles) N of Kolkata

Darjeeling, “Land of the Celestial Thunderbolt,” was given to the British as a “gift” from the once-independent kingdom of Sikkim. Lying in the Himalayan foothills and entirely surrounded by snowcapped vistas, Darjeeling soon became the favorite summer resort of the British Raj during the heyday of Calcutta—when Mark Twain visited, he exclaimed it was “the one land that all men desire to see, and having seen once by even a glimpse would not give that glimpse for the shows of the rest of the world combined.” Today, the incredible view of the world’s third-highest mountain, Mount Kanchenjunga (8,220m/27,400 ft.), is undoubtedly Darjeeling’s best-loved attraction, though the town has also acquired a global reputation for producing the “champagne of teas,” and retains some of its haunting Gothic Victorian ambience. Most visitors are here to pick up a permit and get acclimatized for hikes through the mountainous state of Sikkim. It’s worth noting that if you want a sleepy colonial hill-station environment, with splendid flower-filled walks, this is not it. Head instead for nearby
Kalimpong,
which offers a number of charming old-world accommodations.

Two nights in Darjeeling should be more than enough, particularly if you’re moving on to other Himalayan foothill towns. As with most hill stations, Darjeeling involves a considerable amount of climbing, and you’ll do well to avoid the ugly mess of lower Darjeeling, which is typically congested, with suspicious odors, confusing back alleys, and a jumble of paths and stairways. Stick to The Mall and Chowrasta (crossroads) in upper Darjeeling, where life proceeds at a polite pace, and you can enjoy leisurely walks, stopping for a cup of tea or to browse shops stuffed full of trinkets and artifacts.

Note:
There has been a fair amount of political turmoil off late with the Nepali residents clamoring for Darjeeling to become a separate state called Gorkhaland; quite unfortunately and with little foresight, the politics has directly affected tourists so it is advisable to find out what the mood is like prior to making bookings. The travel agents and operators recommended in this book can advise you; alternatively check with your embassy or state tourism department (see the planning chapter).

ESSENTIALS

VISITOR INFORMATION
Darjeeling’s
Tourist Information Centre
(The Mall;
0354/225-5351
or -4214;
www.wbtourism.com/darjeeling
; June to mid-Mar Mon–Sat
10am–4:30pm, mid-Mar to May daily 9am–7pm)
is helpful and will give you a free map of the area.

ACQUIRING YOUR SIKKIM PERMIT IN DARJEELING
Be warned:
Getting your Sikkim permit is a laborious process that will last at least an hour. Take your passport to the
District Magistrate’s Office
(off Hill Cart Rd.; Mon–Fri 10am–1pm and 2:30–4:30pm). Fill in a permit application form (remember to have it stamped), then go to the
Foreigners’ Registration Office
(Laden La Rd.;
0354/225-4203;
daily 10am–7pm), where a policeman will endorse your form. Finally, head back to the District Magistrate’s Office, making sure you arrive before closing time, and your passport will be stamped and the permit issued free of charge. Valid for 15 days, it states clearly which areas you may enter. (Permits are also available from the Ministry of Home Affairs in New Delhi or from Indian consulates abroad.)