India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (384 page)

For Bengali cuisine, try
Oh Calcutta
(10/3 Elgin Rd., fourth floor, Forum Mall;
033/2283-7162;
www.speciality.co.in
) and ask for specials like
dab chingri
(prawns in coconut gravy),
kakra chingri bhapa
(crabmeat and minced prawn cooked with mustard sauce, wrapped in banana leaf, and steamed), or Anglo-Indian fare like the Railway Mutton Curry; nothing fancy about the decor but its popularity is evident. If you don’t mind sitting in cramped surroundings,
Bhojohari Manna
(
033/2440-1933
) is where you get the most authentic Bengali fare at dirt-cheap prices. There are four branches; best to give a call and ask which one is closest to you.

Anyone with a sweet tooth is headed for heaven:
Mishti doi
(yogurt with caramelized sugar) is a must-try, as are Bengali staples like
sandesh
(cottage cheese with jaggery),
chanar payesh
(cottage cheese or milk with nuts and raisins),
ledikeni
(said to be named after Lady Canning, who was a great admirer of this sweet!),
rossogolla
(spongy balls of cottage cheese dipped in sugar syrup), and
khir kadom,
more delicately sweetened than the
gulab jamuns
(sweet milk-and-dough balls) and
halwas
(semolina desserts) of the north, and available all over the city. Shop where sweet gourmands do, at the most popular
K.C. Das
(11A Planet East, Dharamtala;
033/2248-5920;
www.kcdas.co.in
). You could also try
Ganguram
(11 C.R. Ave.;
033/2236-5502;
www.ganguram.com
),
Gokul
(1 A.J.C. Bose Rd.),
Mithai
(48B Syed Amir Ali Ave.), and
Bhim Chandra Nag
(5, Nirmal Chandra St.;
033/2212-0465
).

Fast Food, Kolkata Style

At almost any time of the day you’ll see expectant customers standing outside the various kathi roll booths all over the city. They’re waiting for one of Kolkata’s favorite lunchtime snacks, a paratha (thick chapati, or fried bread) filled with spiced chicken, mutton, egg, potato, or paneer (Indian cheese) topped off with chaat masala, onion, and lemon juice—simply delicious. The hygiene at many of these places is often suspect, so look for a stall with lots of customers. (Try
Kusum
at 21 Park St., the one outside Oxford Book Store; or another stall next to Peter Cat.) Order the double-side egg mutton roll. Puchkas (deep-fried hollow balls made of wheat, filled with mashed and spiced potato along with tangy mint), omelet bread (where the bread is cooked inside the egg!), and jhalmuri (a truly delicious mix of a dozen snack items, served dry or with onions, tomatoes, and spicy chutneys), are also favorites with the local people and a must-have if you really want a taste of Kolkatan life.

Baan Thai
THAI The Oberoi’s Baan Thai is one of those rare places where you are assured of real authenticity, with chefs Thida and Prayong earning many accolades in the last 3 years. Start with
kai rue koong hor bai toey
(marinated chicken or prawn morsels wrapped in pandana leaf, deep fried, and served with soy sesame dip) or the
som tam esan
(tangy salad of young papaya, peanut, and tomato dressed with lemon juice and palm). Follow this with the best
tom yam soup
in the country. For the mains, traditional flat rice noodles goes great with spicy green curry,
pla kapong/phet samros
(deep-fried
bekti
[fish]/duck in spicy sweet and sour sauce),
patani
(stir-fried lamb with ginger), or
kai takrai
(traditional stir-fried chicken)—all winners. You must order a most refreshing Chendol Ice (pineapple juice and coconut milk). The ambience is nicer in the evening, but if it’s purely the cuisine you’re after, any time is a good time.

The Oberoi Grand, 15 Jawaharlal Nehru Rd., Kolkata.
033/2249-2323.
Fax 033/2249-1217.
www.oberoihotels.com
. Average meal for 2 Rs 2,000. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 12:30–2:30pm and 7:30–11:30pm.