India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (360 page)

There are a number of reputable operators organizing treks in Garhwal but our number one choice is
Aquaterra Adventures India
(
011/2921-2641
or -2760;
www.treknraft.com
), not least for their highly professional and reliable service. Other good options are
Himalayan Eco Adventure
(
01389/222-446
or -252; based in Joshimath) and
Garhwal Himalayan Explorations
(
0135/244-2267
or -2667;
www.thegarhwalhimalayas.com
; based in Rishikesh).

Kumaon
One of the best-known and simplest routes in the Kumaon is the
Pindari Glacier Trek
, a fairly moderate trek that lasts up to 8 or 9 days and can easily be combined with a sojourn in or near Corbett National Park. A shorter trek takes you on a 20km (12-mile) climb through
Valley of Flowers National Park
, high up in the Himalayas. Between June and September, hundreds of species of flowers—many of them rare alpine varieties—cover the valley floor, through which the Pushpawati River flows. We recommend Nainital’s
Parbat Tours
(
05942/23-5656
) for organized treks in the Kumaon.

1 Garhwal

Sacred source of the Ganges, the western part of Uttarakhand is where Hindu devotees come on mountain
yatras
(pilgrimages) to Badrinath, Kedarnath, Gangotri, and Yamunotri. Westerners tend to head straight for
Rishikesh,
said to be the “birthplace” of yoga, and made famous by the Beatles, who visited what was then a peaceful village back in the 1960s. As a result, scores of garish concrete ashrams and temples line the banks of the Ganges here, drawing thousands of visitors seeking their own yogis
and tantric enlightenment, as well as hippies and backpackers keen to contemplate life, the universe, and everything through an edifying cloud of hash smoke. Up in the hills, with staggering views of the vast Doon Valley and western Garhwal’s Himalayan peaks,
Mussoorie
is the quintessential Raj-era hill station, but it gets crowded and detestable in summer (and on weekends), packed with honeymooning and vacationing domestic tourists who send the decibel level skyrocketing. In winter, however, much of its near-haunted charm returns.

ESSENTIALS

GETTING THERE & AWAY
By Air
Dehra Dun’s
Jolly Grant Airport
is a 55-minute flight from Delhi; the most reliable airline flying into Jolly Grant is
Kingfisher Airlines
(
1800-309-3030;
www.flykingfisher.com
). From there, catch a taxi to either Mussoorie or Rishikesh, or have your hotel pick you up; transfer rates are included in reviews where possible.

By Train
Mussoorie:
Dehra Dun
is the terminus of the Northern Railway, and is the jumping-off point for Mussoorie. For Rishikesh,
Haridwar
is the more convenient terminal, 30 minutes away by taxi; Haridwar itself is now worth staying in for a possible night or two—see box below.

There are several good connections between Delhi, the capital, and both Dehra Dun and Haridwar, including the
Dehra Dun
Shatabdi
and the
Dehra Dun Janshatabdi
(Mon–Sat), which both stop at Haridwar. An overnight alternative is the
Mussoorie Express.

By Road
The drive from Delhi to Rishikesh (250km/155 miles) takes between 5 and 6 hours. Regular buses leave Delhi for Haridwar/Rishikesh. If you’re at Corbett, the drive to Rishikesh takes around 4 hours. Mussoorie is 280km (173 miles) from Delhi, including a final 33km (20 miles) from Dehra Dun, along a steeply ascending series of troublesome hairpin bends; plenty of luxury buses ply the route (best bus option is Volvo; expect to pay around Rs 450).

VISITOR INFORMATION
In Mussoorie, the
Tourist Bureau
(
0135/263-2682;
Mon–Sat 10am–5pm, closed second Sat of the month) is located near the ropeway, on the Mall.
Dehra Dun’s
GMVN office is at 74/1 Rajpur Rd. (
0135/274-8478,
-6817, or -9308). In Rishikesh, visit the
Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam (GMVN) Tourist Information Centre
(Railway Station, Haridwar;
01334/224-240
or 01334/228-686;
www.gmvnl.com
; same hours as above); you can contact the same office for rafting (Nov–May) and other adventure inquiries.