India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (301 page)

Capital of the legendary Sisodias of Mewar, believed to be direct descendants of the Sun (an insignia you’ll see everywhere), Udaipur was built on the shores of Lake Pichola by Udai Singh II in 1559, who returned here after the third and final sacking of the previous Mewar stronghold, Chittaurgarh (see “Top Excursions,” later in this chapter). Udai Singh’s son, Pratap, kept the Mughal invaders at bay for a further 25 years and is said to have been so disgusted by Man Singh and the Jaipur raja’s obsequious relations with the Mughals that, after one historic meeting, he had the ground where Man Singh had walked washed with Ganges water in order to purify it. Maharana Fateh Singh was also the only Rajput prince who refused to attend the Delhi Durbar held for King George V in 1911, despite the fact that the British had acknowledged him as the head of the princely states of Rajputana.

Much of Udaipur, particularly the old part located on the shores of Lake Pichola, is where you’ll find the city’s most striking landmarks—the towering
City Palace
and
Lake Palace
—and it still feels remarkably like a 16th-century Rajput stronghold, with the benevolent Maharana still treated like a reigning king by his devoted and loyal subjects. You can witness this firsthand by attending the temple at nearby Eklingji on a Monday evening, when the Maharana—the 76th ruler of one of the world’s oldest surviving dynasties—often joins his subjects to pay his respects to Shiva.

Try to spend at least 3 to 4 days in Udaipur, whether you spend them aimlessly wandering its mazelike lanes, taking a slow cruise on Pichola Lake, exploring the giant medieval fortress and palaces that rise from its shores, or setting off to see the intricately carved Jain temples of Ranakpur and the ancient fort of Kumbhalgarh—or whether you do nothing but loll on a comfortable divan from a hanging Jarokha overlooking the lake. You’ll find the City of Sunrise the most relaxing part of your sojourn in Rajasthan, in fact so much so that many end their Indian sojourn with a few days reflecting in its tranquil waters.

ESSENTIALS

VISITOR INFORMATION
Rajasthan Tourism Development Corporation (RTDC),
though inconveniently located in the Tourist Office at Fateh Memorial in Suraj Pol (
0294/241-1535;
Mon–Sat 10am–5pm), can arrange accommodations, licensed guides, maps, and brochures. You can also call the RTDC Hotel Kajri at
0294/241-0501
through -0503 for tourist information and assistance. Satellite tourist offices can be found at the airport (
0294/265-5433;
open at flight times) and at the railway station, which was scheduled to reopen once new train services begin (see “Getting There: By Train/Bus,” below).

The most convenient place to draw money against your credit card/ATM card is near the Jagdish Temple (City Palace Rd.). There is also an ICICI Bank next to the Jet Airways office (Madhuban), an SBI ATM next to Indian Airlines (Delhi Gate), and several others near Town Hall, Bapu Bazaar. There are two convenient LKP foreign exchange offices on Lake Palace Road (next to Rang Niwas Palace Hotel) and near Jagdish Temple. A useful private hospital is
American International Hospital
on Kothi Baugh, Bhatt Ji Ki (
0294/242-8701
through
-8704).

GETTING THERE
By Air
Dabok Airport
is 25km (16 miles) from Udaipur. As always,
Jet Airways
is the preferable option (
0294/256-1105-60
), connecting the city with Delhi, Mumbai (both 1 hr., 15 min.), and Jaipur (45 min.).
Indian Airlines
(
0294/265-5453
airport, 0294/241-0999 Delhi Gate) covers the same routes, as well as Jodhpur. A regular non-air-conditioned taxi into town should cost about Rs 300).
Travel Plan
(details below) offers air-conditioned taxis from the airport to the city for Rs 400

By Train/Bus
The
Mewar Express
departs Delhi’s Nizamuddin station at 6:35pm and arrives at Udaipur City station at 6:10am the following morning; significant stops en route are Bharatpur, Sawai Madhopur (for Ranthambhore), and Chittaurgaur. There’s an evening train from Jaipur, departing 9:40pm, which arrives at 7:10am the following morning. From Ahmedabad there is the Ahmedabad Express departing at 7:45pm arriving at 4:20am and the Fast Passenger departing 9:20am arriving at 8:55pm. There are deluxe bus connections from Jaipur, Jodhpur, and Ahmedabad (roads are in fairly good condition). In the unlikely event that you’ve opted for a bus, you will most likely be dropped off just north of the City Railway Station.

GETTING AROUND
Due to the narrow, winding alleyways of the Old City, the best way to get around the main tourist sights (the area surrounding the City Palace) is on foot, but if you want to spend a rather satisfying day taking in all the sights in the city, consider renting a
moped
or
bicycle
from
Heera Cycle Store & Tours & Travels
(inside Hotel Badi Haveli, 86 Gangaur Ghat Rd., easy walking distance from Jagdish Temple;
0294/513-0625;
copy of passport and driver’s license required; daily 7:30am–9pm)

For journeys farther afield, hiring a car with driver is probably the only way to go; you will certainly need one for the recommended trips described below. To hire one for the day, or for a self-planned tour in Rajasthan, call
Travel Plan
(
0294/252-4688
or -242/1902; fax 0294/241-0213) and ask for Mr. Mahipul Sigh (or try him at
098/2905-9319;
[email protected]). Mr. Singh will provide experienced qualified and licensed guides in all languages for Rs 660 for half day and Rs 800 for full day. Or call Gajraj Singh, a bright young man who is passionate about his city and is well educated in its history and culture and speaks perfect English (mobile
098/28509651;
[email protected]). Alternatively, the efficient Ramesh Dashora, proprietor of
Parul Tours and Travel,
opposite Jagat Niwas Hotel, at 32 Lal Ghat (
0294/242-1697;
[email protected]); Ramesh offers English-speaking guides (Rs 1,000/day), plus A/C Ambassadors (or Indicas) for Rs 1,500 for a full day; this includes 250km (155 miles) with each additional kilometer costing around Rs 6, and there’s an overnight fee of Rs 150. More substantial vehicles will push prices up considerably. You can even reserve a car online (
www.rajasthantravelbycab.com
).