India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (260 page)

Heading South
Passing
Chaumsathi Ghat,
where the temple houses images of Kali and Durga; and
Dhobi Ghat,
alive with the sound of laundry workers rhythmically beating clothing that have been “cleansed” by the Ganges, you come to
Kedara Ghat,
notable for its red-and-white-striped South Indian–style temple. Farther south lie
Harishchandra Ghat,
Varanasi’s second cremation
ghat
(though less popular because it also houses an electric crematorium); and
Tulsi Ghat,
named in honor of Goswami Tulsidas, a revered Hindu poet. Nearby is
Lolark Kund,
where childless women come to bathe and pray for progeny. The final stop (or the first, if your accommodations make a south-north journey more convenient) is
Assi Ghat,
a simple clay bank situated at the confluence of the Ganga and Assi rivers. From here you can walk to
Durga Temple,
which lies farther west from the
ghat.
Note:
If you want to walk from Assi Ghat to Dasashwamedh, the trip will take a leisurely 60 to 90 minutes. Although the best time to walk or cruise the river is at sunrise or before sunset, you may wish to see the river in a completely different and relatively quiet “avatar,” in which case take a late-afternoon stroll down the
ghats
in winter.

The Polluted Elixir of Life

According to religious belief, the Ganges is amrita, elixir of life, “cleanser of sin,” “eternal womb,” and “purifier of souls.” Even from a scientific point of view, the river once had an almost miraculous ability to purify itself—up to 100 years ago, microbes such as cholera could not survive in these sacred waters. Sadly, the Ganges is today one of the most polluted rivers in the world. This is mostly due to the chemical toxins dumped by industrial factories that line the river, but Varanasi’s ancient sewers and a population with equally ancient attitudes toward waste disposal (including the dumping of an estimated 45,000 uncremated corpses annually) are problems the Uttar Pradesh Water Board struggles to overcome. Several eco-groups like the Sankat Mochan Foundation at Tulsi Ghat are working to alleviate the environmental degradation of the Ganges, but as you will find abundantly clear within an hour of being in Varanasi, much more needs to be done. Still, it may be something of a miracle that so many people perform their daily ablutions—with full-body immersions—in the waters and apparently suffer no harm; it’s even a popular stunt with braver tourists.

Bharat Kala Bhavan Museum
As is so often the case in India, this museum suffers from poor curatorship, with exhibits—which are marvelous—haphazardly displayed and poorly labeled. You may even have trouble persuading the guards to turn on all the lights and show you the rooms behind the screen—hence the need for a good guide. The miniature-painting collection is superb, as are many of the Hindu and Buddhist sculptures and Mughal artifacts, though again, without a guide there is no way to know, for instance, that the otherwise nondescript coin behind the glass was minted by the Mughal emperor Akbar—and in keeping with his legendary religious tolerance, it has a Hindu symbol printed on one side and an Islamic on the other. Set aside 2 hours to explore.

Benaras Hindu University.
www.bhu.ac.in
. Admission Rs 100; still camera free, video not allowed. July–Apr Mon–Sat 11am–4pm; May–June closes at 12:30pm.

Kashi Vishwanath Temple
Of the more than 2,000 temples in Varanasi, the most important is Kashi Vishwanath Temple, or “Golden Temple,” dedicated to Lord Shiva, the presiding deity of the city. Because of repeated destruction by the invading sultans and later by Aurangzeb, the current Vishwanath is a relatively modern building: It was built in 1777 by the Maharani of Indore, and the
shikhara
(spire) and ceilings were plated with 820 kilograms (1,808 lb.) of gold, a gift from Maharaja Ranjit Singh, in 1839. Five major
aartis
are held daily, but the temple is always abuzz with worshipers. Sadly, non-Hindus may not enter, but by taking a stroll through the Vishwanath Galli (pronounced
Gul
-ley, meaning lane) that runs the length of it, you can get a glimpse of the interior, which exudes pungent smells and constant noise. For a small donation, you can climb to one of the second floors or rooftops of the shops that line the lane and get a good view. Note that adjacent is
Gyanvapi Mosque,
built by Aurangzeb on a Hindu temple site and heavily guarded to ensure that no trouble erupts. Ironically, this is also the starting point for many pilgrims on their quest to visit all the
tirthas
in a ritual journey, accompanied by a priest who recites the
sankalpa,
or “declaration of intent.” Nearby is
Annapurna Temple,
dedicated to Shakti.

Vishwanath Galli. Temple is closed to non-Hindus; compound is accessible. No cameras or cellphones allowed within the Galli and temple compound.

A Side Trip to Sarnath

After gaining enlightenment,
Sarnath
is where Buddha gave his first sermon some 2,500 years ago, and continued to return with followers. For many centuries after this, it was renowned as a Buddhist center of learning, housing some 3,000 monks, but successive Muslim invasions and later lootings destroyed the monasteries and much of the art. Today it still attracts many pilgrims, but—unless you’re very familiar with Buddha’s personal history or are an archaeologist—the site itself is nowhere near as inspiring as his teachings, and you’re likely to experience it all as nothing more than a boring pile of bricks. The most impressive sight is
Dhamekh Stupa,
if only for its sheer age. Built around
A.D.
500, with a massive girth, it still towers 31m (102 ft.) into the air and is said to mark the very spot where Buddha revealed his Eightfold Path leading to nirvana. The ruins of
Dharmarajika Stupa
lie immediately north of the entrance. Beyond is the
Ashokan Pillar
—the stupa is said to have been one of 28 built by Ashoka, the 3rd century
B.C.
Mauryan king and bloodthirsty warrior who was to become one of the most passionate converts to Buddhism. Beyond these are the ruins of monasteries. Across the road from the entrance to the main site is
Sarnath Archaeological Museum,
where you can view the four-headed lion that once topped the Ashoka Pillar; created in the 3rd century
B.C.
, it’s made from sandstone, polished to look like marble. The lion capital, with the wheel beneath representing Buddha’s “wheel of dharma,” is today a national emblem for India, found on all currency notes and official government documents. East of the Dhamek Stupa is
Mulagandha Kuti
(main temple), which houses an image of Buddha (ironically enough, against his wishes, images of Buddha abounded after his death). The walls contain frescoes pertaining to his life history—a good crash course for the novice if accompanied by a guide. You can also visit the peaceful
Tibetan Buddhist Monastery,
a lovely, bright space with display cases filled with hundreds of miniature Buddhas.

Sarnath is 10km (6 1⁄4 miles) north of Varanasi. Admission Rs 100. Daily 7am–6:30pm. Museum Rs 2; Sat–Thurs 10am–5pm; cameras not allowed (lockers provided). Mulagandha Kuti 4–11:30am and 1:30–8pm. Daily chanting Rs 5 for use of still camera, Rs 25 video; Nov–Feb 6pm, Mar–May 6:30pm, June–Oct 7pm. Tibetan Buddhist Monastery free admission; 5am–noon and 2–6:30pm.

WHERE TO STAY

In a general sense, you have two options: You can stay in one of the waterfront lodgings, most of which (with the exception of the two reviewed below) are very basic; or you can spend the night in the relative peace and comfort of the Cantonment area, where the most “luxurious” options are. Still, with the exception of our three choice picks, below, the Cantonment hotels tend to look very frayed, if not downright decaying. And the downside of staying in the Cantonment is that you feel very cut off from the real Varanasi, and require an earlier morning wake-up call to get to the
ghats;
for the sunset
aarti,
when the streets are often jammed, it may take 30 minutes (and a blood-curdling taxi or rickshaw ride) to get there, and you’ll walk the last part. These issues can be solved by staying in a hotel on the Ganges, but this also means you have no chance of unwinding at a pool, eating meat, or drinking alcohol—still, if you manage to bag a river-facing room, you will have the delight of a waterfront view, with the surreal experience of Varanasi on your doorstep.
Note:
Staying in one of the budget hotels away from the
ghats
is inadvisable unless you’re used to budget traveling; many have no windows, and the noise is incessant.

Cantonment

The Gateway Hotel Ganges Varanasi
The Gateway is located within an ugly 1970s monolith, but rooms have been renovated over the past few years to create a more contemporary ambience. Executive rooms are now stylishly furnished with comfy divans and plasma TVs, but the best rooms are the lovely, cozy suites (book no. 527, which occupies a top corner and is very spacious and gracious, with a huge bathroom). What distinguishes this old five-star stalwart are service and the vast array of amenities, as well as a real passion for the region; the hotel hires the best guides in the city, shopping tips are excellent, and the travel desk will arrange tours as far afield as Bodhgaya. It also has huge, sprawling grounds, a great pool, and two of the best restaurants in town (this does not mean that the meal will be the best you have in India, however).