India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (234 page)

The best temples to visit in central New Delhi are
Lakshmi Narayan Mandir
(west of Connaught Place, on Mandir Marg; leave cameras and cellphones at counter outside), an ornate yet contemporary Hindu temple built by the wealthy industrialist B. D. Birla in 1938; and
Bangla Sahib Gurudwara
(off Ashoka Rd.), Delhi’s principal Sikh temple. If you aren’t heading north to the Golden Temple at Amritsar (see chapter 13 for more on Sikhism), a visit to the
gurudwara
is highly recommended, if only to experience the warm and welcoming atmosphere that seems to pervade all Sikh places of worship—evident in details like the efficient shoe deposit, a scarf to cover your head (both free), genuinely devoted guides who expect no recompense (available at the entrance), devotional hymns (sung constantly sunrise–9pm), free food (served three times daily), and
prasad
(communion) offered as you leave—be warned that it can be oily and you won’t give offense if you decline. The
gurudwara
is certainly an interesting contrast to Lakshmi Narayan Mandir; a visit to one of the first Hindu temples to open its doors to all castes (including “outcasts” like the foreign Britishers) makes you feel very much like a tourist, whereas the more embracing atmosphere of the
gurudwaras
has you feeling welcomed and humbled.

If all this sightseeing has you beat, you can retreat to
Lodi Gardens
(5km/3 miles south of Connaught Place), where green lawns surround the crumbling tombs of the 15th-century Sayyid and Lodi dynasties—the tombs are not well-preserved, but the green, shaded oasis may suffice as a break from the hectic traffic or shopping at nearby Khan Market. Early mornings are quite lovely and in case you want a bit more history to the gardens, we suggest you take a walk with
INTACH
(
011/2464-1304;
www.intach.org
; Rs 50) who also organize walking tours in Hauz Khas, another delightful area to explore on foot, and ideal for early birds. The 18th-century
Safdarjang’s Tomb
lies just south of Lodi Gardens, but more impressive by far is
Humayun’s Tomb
(a short rickshaw ride west) and, across the street,
Hazrat Nizamuddin Aulia
(both discussed below).

Finally, for the special-interest traveler, you can view India’s largest collection of rare stamps free of charge at the
National Philatelic Museum,
located at the post office at Dak Bhavan (Sansad Marg; enter at back of post office; Mon–Fri 9:30am–4:30pm, closed 12:30–2:30pm).

Humayun’s Tomb
This tomb, built for the second Mughal emperor, launched a great Mughal architectural legacy—even the Taj, which was built by Humayun’s great-grandson, was inspired by it. Though the Taj’s beauty (and the money spent) eclipsed this magnificent example of the garden tomb, it’s well worth a visit, even if your next step is to visit its progeny. Paid for by Humayun’s “senior” wife, Haji Begum, and designed by the Persian (Iranian) architect Mirak Mirza Ghiyas, it’s another grand testimony to love. Set in peaceful surrounds, the tomb features an artful combination of red sandstone and white marble, which plays with the wonderful symmetry and scale used by the makers of the Mughal empire. Though it doesn’t have the fine detailing of the Taj, aspects such as the intricately carved stone trellis windows are lovely. If you’re traveling on to Agra, it is interesting to see how the Mughals’ prolonged stay in India started to influence design elements (the Persian finial that mounts the central marble dome was, for instance, later supplanted by the lotus). There are a number of outlying tombs, and if you want to do more than simply wander through the beautifully restored gardens and walkways and marvel at the sheer generosity of scale, this is again one place where the services of a guide are worthwhile. Hire one through your hotel or the central tourism office.

Lodi and Mathura Rd.
011/2435-5275.
Rs 250; Rs 25 video. Daily sunrise–sunset.

The National Museum
Okay, so this museum boasts 150,000 pieces covering some 5 millennia, but it is frustratingly hard for the layperson to traverse these hallowed corridors, a number of which have displays with little or no information; best by far is to hire the audio tour available at the entrance. There are some gems here, like the
12th-century statue
of the cosmic dance of Lord Shiva (South Indian bronzes), which is almost as archetypal of India as the Taj; and a truly wonderful collection of
miniature paintings
—this is one area where you could easily spend a few hours. And if you have any interest in history, the sheer antiquity of many of the pieces will amaze you—here lies the country’s finest collection of Indus Valley relics (ca. 2700
B.C
.), as well as those garnered from central Asia’s “Silk Route” but given that it’s not artfully displayed, with no attempt to make history come alive, it takes time and some effort to appreciate the wealth of history that lies throughout the 30-odd galleries spread over three floors.

Corner of Janpath and Rajpath.
011/2301-9272.
Entry Rs 300 (inclusive of audio-tour charges); camera fee Rs 300. Tues–Sun 10am–5pm.

New Delhi’s Imperial Architecture
Nehru wrote that “New Delhi is the visible symbol of British power, with all its ostentation and wasteful extravagance,” but no one with any design interest fails to be impressed by the sheer scale and beauty of these buildings and the subtle blending of Indian influence on an otherwise stripped-down Western classicism—a far cry from the ornate Indo-Saracenic style so deplored by chief architect Sir Edwin Lutyens. Lutyens, known for his racist views, in fact despised all Indian architecture (he conveniently convinced himself that the Taj was actually the work of an Italian designer), but he was forced to include some “native” elements in his designs. Clearly, at first glance the Lutyens buildings of Central Delhi are symbols of imperial power intended to utterly dwarf and humble the individual, yet the Indian influences, such as the neo-Buddhist dome, tiny helmetlike
chattris
(cenotaphs), and filigree stonework, add a great deal to their stately beauty. Once the home of the viceroy of India,
Rashtrapati Bhavan
is today the official residence of the president of India and is closed to the public (though the Mughal Gardens, spread over 5.2 magnificent hectares [13 acres] and among the best in India, are open to the public Feb 14–Mar 14). It’s worth noting that this is the largest residence of any president on earth, with over 350 rooms (the White House has a mere 132). Do take note of the slender 44m (145 ft.) Jaipur Column near the entrance gates; donated by the Maharaja of Jaipur, it is topped by a bronze lotus and six-pointed glass star. The two Secretariat buildings, designed by Sir Herbert Baker, show a similar subtle blend of colonial and Mughal influences and today house the Ministry of Home Affairs and the Home and Finance ministries. Northeast, at the end of Sansad Marg, is Sansad Bhavan (Parliament House), also designed by Baker, from where the country is managed (or not, as Booker Prize–winner Arundhati Roy argues so succinctly in
The Algebra of Injustice
—a recommended but somewhat depressing read). Take a drive around the roads that lie just south of here (Krishna Menon Marg, for instance) to view the lovely bungalows, also designed by Lutyens, that line the tree-lined avenues.