India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (180 page)

Radiating from the Matrimandir and its gardens, which also have an amphitheater (built with red Agra stone) where the occasional performance is held, the city is architecturally conceived along the lines of a galaxy, evolving organically within certain preset parameters. The original design planned accommodations for 50,000 residents; currently there are about 1,500 from 35 countries, all apparently committed to being “willing servitors of the Divine Consciousness.” Every year new citizens are accepted into the City of Dawn, based on the needs of the existing population and following a stringent evaluation. Far more than a place for devotion and meditation, Auroville is an experiment in self-sufficient living that supposedly takes both nature and culture into account, with all members providing some service to the community. Certainly its architectural innovation and utopian idealism make this a place of interest for anyone with a penchant for the unusual, the ethereal, or the novel, but living here is no doubt a great deal more challenging since the mediating presence of The Mother is no longer there to smooth over the flaws of life among mere mortals. But it is the global residents of Auroville who give Pondicherry its unique flavor, with many running restaurants and retail outlets in the coastal town and beyond.

As a day visitor you will need to stop at the
Tourist Information Centre
(
0413/262-2239;
www.auroville.org
), where you can pick up brochures, shop, snack, and watch a video presentation—a prerequisite before moving on to visit the Matrimandir (Mon–Sat 9:30am–12:30pm and 2–4pm; Sun 9:30am–12:30pm) and surrounding gardens. It is a 10-minute walk to the Matrimandir; a shuttle vehicle is available (ask where to wait when you get your ticket). Note that the cafeteria kitchen prepares delicious, wholesome, extraordinarily cheap vegetarian fare—time your visit for lunch. Given that the Auroville community is predominantly (and predictably) craftsmen and artists, the retail area adjacent to the cafeteria are also worth a look-in (Kalki particularly, though there is more for sale in their Pondicherry outlet on Mission St.). If you’re interested in overnighting in Auroville, visit Guest Service, located upstairs at the Solar Kitchen building, or visit
www.aurovilleguesthouses.org
(see recommendations below).

WHERE TO STAY

In Pondicherry

Pondicherry is made for pedestrians, and there seems little point in basing yourself in a hotel in modern Pondi, no matter how popular (thinking of Hotel Atithi here), if it necessitates then having to drive into the French heart of Pondi. As such you’ll probably want to base yourself in the more peaceful and very charming French Quarter, from where you can walk anywhere; as such all the recommended options are in the French Quarter, with the exception of the charming
Maison Perumal
(reviewed below), which is located in a beautifully restored Tamil home just below Mission Street (the main shopping drag). Despite having no sea views, this is currently our top pick in Pondi itself (Dune being the best out-of-Pondi choice), primarily because of the exceptional service levels: Part of the highly respected CHGroup, who specialize in unpretentious elegance, Maison Perumal is the latest in a line of boutique properties the group is opening in Tamil Nadu, a move that is helping to put Tamil Nadu as firmly on the map as their properties did for Kerala.

Other than those reviewed below, it’s also worth looking into the relatively new
Richmond Hotel
, which opened in late 2008 in the French Quarter at 12 Labourdannais St., 4 blocks back from the seafront (
0413-2346363;
www.theresidency.com
; Rs 3,500–Rs 4,000 double). A narrow colonial-era building, the Richmond is a small property, with just 14 compact rooms boasting all modern conveniences; we certainly wouldn’t mind ending up here if our recommendations reviewed below were full. However, some rooms are a little on the dark side; request a room that overlooks the street or the back of the building, that is, a room with plenty of windows to let in natural light, such as 1210, 1212 or 1202. The hotel has no outside gardens, and the bland mod interiors don’t reflect any sense of place. If this is important you may want to take a look at nearby
Hotel de Pondichéry
on 38 Rue Dumas (
0413-2227409;
www.hoteldepondichery.org
; Rs 2,000–Rs 3,200 double). This heritage hotel, a block back from the seaside, in a gorgeous colonial villa with gardens that run into the Le Club group of restaurants (comprising Bistro, Indochine, and Le Club), was undergoing a much-needed renovation at research time—given that this was once one of our favorites before it became increasingly dog-eared, damp and run-down, we are much heartened that steps have been taken to remedy the situation. However, as it was very much in progress, we cannot vouch for the end product as yet (furniture would need a similar investment) so final opinions are tempered (but do write and inform us of yours!). Right next door, at 36 Rue Dumas, is
Dumas
Guest House
(
0413-2225726;
www.dumasguesthouse.com
) another 17th-century colonial heritage building that has been converted into a simple guest house offering eight clean but spartan rooms, surrounded by nice gardens, and a deal at R 1,500 double. For spotlessly clean budget accommodations right on the sea, look no further than
Sea
Side Guest House
(14 Goubert Ave.;
0413/233-6494
). It’s basically a small hostel-like hotel, run by the Aurobindo Society, so service is either benign or indifferent, and there are no real amenities. But the combination of location and price is unbeatable: a double A/C room with sea view costs a mere Rs 775; sea-facing suites cost Rs 975 a day; extra mattress Rs 150. The only possible irritant is the fact that the gates are locked at 11:15pm, and no alcohol is allowed on the premises. It’s understandably popular, so book well in advance.

Hotel de l’Orient
More guesthouse than hotel, this slightly run-down but exceptionally characterful 1760s manor house is in the heart of the French Quarter. Each of the guest rooms—set around an inner courtyard shaded by citrus and neem trees—are furnished with French colonial antiques, capturing the period grandeur of a colonial nobleman’s mansion, though not all rooms are created equal, and not everyone likes the slightly decaying look. Top favorites are Karikal (a truly “Grand Room” with terrace and veranda, Rs 6,000) and Yanaon (a bargain, given its size, at Rs 4,500). Arcot, which has a patio, is also a great choice, as is Surate (both Rs 3,250), while Cassimbazar is a great twin-bedded room. Service is well meaning but untrained. Most accommodations overlook or are linked to the romantically candlelit courtyard restaurant,
Carte Blanche,
where local “Creole” cuisine, a blend of South Indian and French, is served.
Tip:
Don’t miss the attached Neemrana gift shop; it has some wonderful, fair-priced souvenirs sourced from all over India—worth a visit even if you’re not overnighting here.