This should be interesting,
I thought,
if I manage to drive there successfully.
I hung up, went back to the maid’s bath, retrieved and donned my eye patch, and decided that a large denim garden hat might not be the proper headgear for dinner. After ruffling through the hatbox in the hall closet, I selected a wide-brimmed black hat that necessitated changing to a black outfit. Finally, I was ready and drove off to the restaurant, where I found Adela, looking distraught, while her aunt and uncle dipped chips in the excellent chile con queso, the large size, and conversed in Spanish. Introductions were made, the language switched to English for my sake, and Tia Julietta complimented me on my hat, remarking that she herself liked hats because they were dressier for evening and warded off evil spirits that might be lurking above one’s head.
Tio Javier told me to pay no attention to his sister, who clung to all sorts of old-fashioned, supernatural ideas instilled in her at an early age by their
abuela,
a delightful but somewhat crazy old lady, now deceased. I felt as if I’d walked into a scene in a magic realist novel—Isabela Allende or Gabriel García Márquez, neither of whom is Mexican. We consulted our menus. The aunt ordered
Pescado al Mojo de Ajo
, a fish filet in garlic butter; the uncle ordered steak
Tampiqueno
; Adela ordered, at my suggestion, spinach enchiladas, which are
so
very good and have such a lovely, subtle sauce; I tried something new,
Enchiladas de Calebacitas
, Mexican-squash enchiladas. Then we gingerly approached the subject of Adela’s fear of arrest.
“It may be about to happen,” I admitted. “I was at police headquarters this afternoon, giving evidence on a man who may have smothered Adela’s professor, when I heard that the toxicology reports had come in and revealed an unusual addition to the guacamole, which, as you know, Adela made.”
“Why are the police pursuing my niece if her professor died from smothering?” asked the uncle.
“Unfortunately, the sergeant in charge of the investigation does not believe in the smothering theory because it is obvious that something made Professor Gubenko very sick before he died.”
“But you convinced him, no?” said the aunt.
“He wasn’t there. He was out looking for Adela.”
Adela started to cry.
“There, there child,” said Tia Julietta. “There is nothing in your horoscope to suggest that you will be arrested.”
“Julietta,
mia hermana,
this is not a time for horoscopes,” protested Tio Javier. “This is a time for logic. Do you not agree, Senora Azul?”
“Quite possibly,” I agreed, assuming that I was the Senora Azul he had addressed. “A friend with police connections and I have been investigating this death. We talked to the sergeant’s lieutenant, who has promised to look into our suggestions.”
“Well, that is excellent,” said Tio Javier.
Why was I thinking of him as
Tio?
I didn’t speak Spanish, and he wasn’t
my
uncle.
“No sergeant will ignore the wishes of his superior,” said the uncle as he popped a bite of steak into his mouth. “The food here is excellent.”
“It lacks something,” said Aunt Julietta.
“Then don’t add it. We have enough troubles for our poor niece because she listened to you.”
“I do not blame Tia Julietta,” said Adela, who was sniffling over her spinach enchiladas. “I asked for her help, and she gave it.”
“And look what happened,” said the uncle. They fell back into Spanish to argue the matter. I pretended not to notice and occupied myself by admiring the delightful window that decorates the front wall of the restaurant—thick chunks of colored glass set deep in a black, rough-surfaced, flaring frame, which is, in turn, inset in the thick adobe wall. It rather reminded me of the window in the Juarez Cathedral, one side of which has a very modern wall. On the other hand, part of the cathedral is definitely Spanish colonial style, the part that survived an earth tremor, which occurred soon after the structure was finished. I wonder if the parishioners considered that disaster a message from God or a simple misfortune. Whatever they thought, they redid the destroyed part behind the spires with cement blocks and the memorable modern window. Peculiar, but interesting. The old mission sits right beside the cathedral.
I savored my Enchiladas de Calebacitas, which were delicious, the yellow and Mexican squash, the corn niblets, the diced white onion and tomatoes all lightly cooked. The squash and onion were rather crunchy. This concoction was layered and topped with white cheddar cheese between corn tortillas and baked. Adela and her aunt and uncle continued to argue. Now Julietta was shedding tears.
I looked over the new art exhibit decorating the walls—paintings reminiscent of Frida Kahlo’s work. Not only in Kahlo’s style, but some that looked like Frida herself. As far as I know, Frida Kahlo never painted anything but self-portraits. The restaurant paintings, which are for sale and change from time to time, hang on white walls or walls paneled with slanting boards of dark wood. In a place of honor near the cash register, highlighted with an orange arch, is a framed, highly polished frying pan that was the first when the restaurant opened over thirty years ago. The pan has an engraving, thanking the owner’s mother for her help in establishing the restaurant. What a delightful place!
Since the argument at our table was escalating, I said, “Have you noticed these paintings. Very like Frida Kahlo, don’t you think?”
Enchiladas de Calebacitas
My favorite dish at Casa Jurado in El Paso is the spinach enchiladas, but those are a Jurado family secret. Second in my heart, and almost as good are the squash enchiladas, for which the owner dictated the recipe on the spot when I asked for it. After the dictation, we discussed the trip Henry and his wife are planning with their son. How envious I was. They plan to start in the mountains and walk the pilgrim trail to Santiago de Compostela. Not that I can imagine myself walking five hundred miles, but what an adventure it will be to follow in the footsteps of the thousands, maybe millions of pilgrims who have traveled to Santiago since the Middle Ages.
•
Scrub skins, cut off ends, and slice off damaged portions of 2 or 3 yellow and/or Mexican squash. Dice squash, 1 peeled white onion and a ripe tomato, removing seeds and liquid. Add corn niblets, and cook the mixture lightly in vegetable oil. Squash should be al dente.
•
Set oven at 350°F.
•
Grate white cheddar cheese or Monterey Jack.
•
On a greased cookie sheet, spread the vegetable mixture on 4 fresh corn tortillas (including liquid), sprinkle with cheese, layer another corn tortilla on top of each serving; spread and sprinkle more vegetable mixture and cheese. (You may soften tortillas in hot oil by dipping on each side for no more than 20 seconds or use them as they are if they are quite fresh.)
•
Bake in the oven until cheese melts.
•
Serve with whole, not refried, pinto beans.
Serves 4.
Carolyn Blue, “Have Fork, Will Travel,”
Richmond Herald-Traveler.
40
Recipe Strategy
Carolyn
E
vidently Frida Kahlo
had not been a good subject with which to interrupt the family argument.
“Humph,” said Uncle Javier. “
Comunista.
Her and her fat husband. Diego Rivera was a great artist, much admired in Mexico and all over the world, but his politics were quite unacceptable. I am myself a member of the PAN party, which, you may know, has a sensible philosophy on matters economic, which is what Mexico needs. More jobs, more industry, less mordida.”
“PAN isn’t going to keep me out of jail,” said Adela. “I can’t even go home to visit Mama.”
“Of course, you can,” said her uncle. “You just can’t come back.”
“Leaving the country would make Adela look guilty,” said Aunt Julietta. “What is she guilty of? Making an excellent guacamole that did not turn black. I’m sure you noticed that, Senora Azul. By the way, this fish is very tasty. Perhaps you would like to sample it. Adela tells me that you write about food, and arguing with Javier has ruined my appetite.” She transferred a small filet to my plate.
“Blue, Tia. Senora
Blue,
” said Adela. “If your name were Blanco, would you want Americans calling you Senora White?”
“I did notice that the guacamole kept its color,” I interjected and took a bite of the fish after thanking Adela’s aunt. She was right. Very tasty, just slightly crisped, redolent of butter and garlic. “Even after several hours, the guacamole not only stayed green, but also it didn’t get that nasty, rotten flavor. Was that the addition of lime juice? I didn’t notice it in the flavoring.”
“No
limon,
” said Aunt Julietta. “Is my herbs. They keep the avocado fresh. If the professor had not eaten it all, he would not have been sick. Not very sick.”
“So the herb is a preservative?” I asked, seeing a way out of the maze in which Adela found herself.
There was a discussion in Spanish over the meaning of preservative. Then Adela and her aunt agreed that one of the herb’s qualities was the preservation of freshness.
“In that case, I think we should all go to the police station and explain the misunderstanding. We will say that we have heard the sergeant is looking for Adela because of a . . . compound discovered in the guacamole. Then Adela will give him the recipe.”
“It is a family recipe. Mama would not be happy to think I gave it to the police.”
“Your mother will be happier to know that you aren’t going to be arrested.”
“Her mother does not know of that problem, but your reasoning, Senora, is impeccable,” said Uncle Javier.
“Thank you. Then, when he asks about whatever it is that Adela’s aunt gave her, Adela will explain that ingredient is the preservative. If he does not accept that explanation, I will comment on the amazing freshness of the guacamole over such a long period of time. I will ask how to get some of the preservative. Tia Julietta will suggest sources. We will discuss what other preservative uses it might have—such as keeping apples from turning color after peeled and cut.”
“It does not do that,” said Tia Julietta.
“Well, it must do something besides keep guacamole green and cause people to vomit,” I suggested.
“Of course it does,” she agreed.
“Then you can tell me about that in front of the sergeant.”
“Who by then will be very tired of cooking instructions and want us to go away,” said Uncle Javier gleefully. “A splendid strategy, Senora—Blue.”
“But what if he still puts me in jail?” asked the dubious Adela.
“Then I will provide bail and find you a good lawyer,” said her uncle. “However, our family name will be tarnished if you escape to Juarez and the Americans ask for extradition.”
Thus it was agreed, and I, having finished my squash enchiladas and Julietta’s fish, ordered Mexican crepes.
Pescado al Mojo de Ajo
Our host, Henry Jurado, said, when I mentioned how much I liked the fish, that it was a very easy recipe to make. I pass it on to you.
•
Mix melted butter, not too much, with diced pimentos and garlic and chopped green onions (optional).
•
Sauté thin filets of orange roughy or rockfish in the garlic butter.
•
Serve.
Recipe provided by the owners of Casa Jurado in El Paso, Texas
Mexican Crepes
This Mexican crepe dish is simple enough to make, or would be if you didn’t have to make the crepes. I’ve always wondered why some company doesn’t make frozen or refrigerated crepes that one can pop into the microwave before filling them with tasty things. I even called my favorite supermarket to ask if they had such an item. They informed me that there are no preprepared crepes on the market. What a disappointment.
Therefore, you’ll have to make crepes if you want to try this recipe. Or go to Casa Jurado and order them. For home cooking, you may also have to order the caramel sauce. As for the pecans, many pecans come from our area. Stahmann Farms, in the upper Rio Grand valley, has the largest pecan orchard in the world, 96,000 trees, 5,000,000 pounds of nuts, probably more since the book I got these facts from was written. Whatever the current figure, that’s a lot of pecans. And they use geese to keep the grass trimmed between the trees; then they sell the geese. I wonder, if you stuffed a goose with pecans, whether the pate would be wonderful. Or maybe geese don’t like pecans. Personally, I think they’d be much tastier than grass.
•
CREPES: In a blender or food processor combine in order I cup half-and-half, 2 eggs, 2 teaspoons sugar, 1 teaspoon vanilla extract, 1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour, 3 tablespoons yellow cornmeal (stone ground if possible), and 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted. Blend until smooth. Transfer to bowl, cover, and let stand at room temperature for 1 hour.
•
Warm a 7-inch crepe pan, preferably nonstick, over medium-high heat. Brush it lightly with corn oil. Briefly stir the batter to recombine. When pan is hot (oil should smoke slightly), spoon
¼ cup batter into the skillet, tilting to coat the bottom completely. Set pan over the heat, cook 20 seconds, turn the crepe, and cook another 10 seconds. Slide the crepe onto waxed paper. Repeat this with the remaining batter, stacking crepes when cool between pieces of waxed paper. (Crepes can be wrapped tightly and refrigerated for up to 2 days.)
•
ASSEMBLY: Place a rack in upper third of oven and preheat the oven to 375°F.
•
Spread
½ cup pecans in a layer on a metal pan (like a cake tin) and toast them, stirring once or twice, until crisp and fragrant (8 to 10 minutes). Remove from pan, cool, and chop coarsely.
•
Fold crepes in quarters, most attractive side out. Spread on each
½ tablespoon out of 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened, and wrap in foil. Warm crepes about 15 minutes or until hot and butter has melted.
•
Meanwhile, in a small saucepan over low heat, warm, stirring often, 1
cups cajeta. (Available in specialty stores such as The El Paso Chile Company. Cajeta de leche, caramel based on goats’ milk, is preferable.)
•
Arrange two crepes on each of four plates, spoon the cajeta over and around them. Sprinkle the pecans over all, and serve immediately.
Recipe provided by W. Park Kerr and Norma Kerr from the El Paso Chile Company’s Texas Border Cookbook.
Carolyn Blue, “Have Fork, Will Travel,” Nome News