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Authors: Robin Davis Heigel

Tags: #Graeter’s Ice Cream: An Irresistible History

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In June 2006, Christopher Buckley of
forbes.com
, a self-declared ice cream snob, wrote about growing up on Good Humor and Carvel soft serve and how, in adulthood, he branched out to find the best of the sweet treat he could. He thought he had discovered the pinnacle at the University Pastry Shop in the Cleveland Park neighborhood of Washington,
D.C., where he lived (he was also a fan of the much ballyhooed Berthillon and Dallyou in Paris). After tasting Graeter's Ice Cream, however, he realized that the best ice cream was in an unlikely location.

A few years ago, a dear friend from Ohio confided—rather insisted—that the best ice cream in the world is made in Cincinnati, by a firm called Graeter's. Ice cream snob that I am, I treated this revelation with skepticism and hauteur. Cincinnati? Well, all right, if you say so…

She turned out to be right. Never have I more gladly eaten my words than when I fell—freefalling—into that first pint of Graeter's black raspberry chip. Why, I demanded, had no one told me of this before? To have wasted a half-century! I dug deeper, into their peach, strawberry, coffee, caramel, double chocolate chip, mint chocolate chip, eggnog. How ironic, how delicious, how patriotic, to have traveled the world in search of happiness only to find it—in Cincinnati.

Money
magazine did a fun piece in 2006 where it had four pregnant women taste five ice creams that could be mail-ordered from anywhere in the country. Graeter's black raspberry chocolate chip came in second only to Il Aboratorio Del Gelato from New York and beat Columbus's Jeni's Splendid Ice Creams salty caramel flavor. The tasters said it was sweet and complex, nice and smooth, “the way ice cream from childhood tasted.”

In December 2005,
Vanity Fair
magazine recommended Graeter's as one of its “hot gifts,” saying that Graeter's was “one of the best homemade-ice-cream companies in the country.”

The company was written about not once but twice by
Saveur
magazine, first when the magazine wrote:

Ice cream artisans have a long history in this country (New York shopkeeper Philip Lindsay first marketed his flavors in 1777), and today, great ice cream is easy to find—locally…Graeter's quest for good fruit symbolizes
[Dick Graeter's]
dedication: His fussy search for prime peaches starts in the Carolinas in midsummer and moves north with the season, paying off with fresh peach ice cream. Earlier in the summer, he scours Oregon and Washington for black raspberries to go in his best selling flavor, black raspberry chip. But his biggest triumph is the chocolate chips.

The magazine again wrote about it in a roundup of ice cream parlors across the country. Graeter's was named along with Amy's Ice Creams in Austin, Texas, Dr. Bob's Handcrafted Ice Creams in Upland, California, and Ted Drewes Frozen Custard in St. Louis.

When Ben Cohen, co-founder of Ben & Jerry's Ice Cream, was asked by
USA Today
for his favorite ice cream parlors in July 2002, he listed Graeter's as one of the best.

Gourmet
magazine was also a fan of Graeter's, describing it as “the perfect pint.” And finally,
Chicago
magazine said Graeter's was a must for those taking a road trip to the Queen City:

From an endless array of choices, we picked a bowl of mocha chocolate chip with marshmallows and hot chocolate sauce, that was smooth, rich, and insanely creamy. It was about here that my wife, a lifelong Chicagoan asked how much I thought a house in Cincinnati cost.

The Graeter family also says it has received orders from a number of celebrities, including Sarah Jessica Parker, George Clooney (his aunt, Rosemary Clooney, was a long-standing family friend of the Graeters; she also became the celebrity spokesperson for Graeter's when the Aronoff Center store opened downtown in 1996), Nick Lachey, Kevin Costner, Ashley Judd and Justin Timberlake.

In addition, Graeter's is the official ice cream of the Cincinnati Bengals.

TIMELINE
1868–1872

Louis Charles Graeter leaves home in Indiana for the big city and begins selling ice cream at a street market, eventually establishing a storefront on Sycamore Street.

1873–1883

Louis and his brother Fred move to various storefronts, adding candy to the business and eventually following the incline up to Walnut Hills. In August 1883, Louis leaves to open an ice cream company in California.

1900–1918

Louis returns to Cincinnati, marries Regina Berger and resumes operating Graeter's Ice Cream in Walnut Hills (which his brother continued during his absence). The couple settles at 967 East McMillan Street.

1919

Louis dies in a tragic accident. Regina continues the business with her two young sons.

The Roaring Twenties

Regina begins opening satellite stores, beginning with Walnut Street downtown and the Higginson's Tea Room in Hyde Park. Six new stores are opened by 1929.

World War II

Underperforming stores are closed or relocated, and Graeter's enjoys a period of high profitability as war-weary customers enjoy sweet treats at Graeter's during a time of rationing.

Postwar Years

Ice cream industry begins to change with the introduction of soft serve and home freezers that make packaged ice cream feasible at home all year round.

1955

Regina Graeter, “the Boss,” dies; business is carried on by her sons, Wilmer and Paul. The industry changes from mom and pop shops to an era of big commercial dairies and mass production.

1957

Bakery product line is introduced in response to competitive challenges of new soft serve and the trend to eat ice cream at home.

1958–1980s

Wilmer, with sons Louis, Dick and Jon, buys out Uncle Paul and rebuilds a business that had deteriorated due to lack of investment over the previous decade.

1981

Graeter's opens prototype single-store ice cream factory on Colerain Avenue based on new Carpigiani batch freezer.

1984

Graeter's first franchise operation opens in northern Kentucky. Single-store factory concept is abandoned, but the Carpigiani machines prove successful.

1987

Graeter's begins selling ice cream through Kroger.

1989

Fourth-generation Chip, Bob and Richard join the business.

1995

Plant expansion is completed, nearly doubling the space to twenty-five thousand square feet at a cost of almost $2 million.

2004

Transition of ownership to the fourth generation is completed. Major brand projects completed, resulting in a professional brand mark, packaging and environmental designs.

2005–2007

Work begins to add three new retail stores, taking Graeter's outside Hamilton County and beyond the I-275 loop for the first time.

2007

Plant capacity increased over 40 percent from 2004, allowing for Ohio wholesale expansion. New strategic alliances formed with Trauth and Smith to expand distribution.

2008

Graeter's introduced to Denver in the first test market without retail, sparking interest from new partners and other markets. Plans begin for new manufacturing plant.

2009

Graeter's breaks ground for its new plant in Bond Hill, to be completed 2010.

2010

Graeter's moves production to new Bond Hill plant and buys out largest franchisee, bringing the total number of company-owned retail stores to twenty-nine.

STORE LOCATIONS
C
INCINNATI

Corporate Office/Mount Auburn

2145 Reading Road

Cincinnati, OH 43202

513-721-3323

Cherry Grove

8533 Beechmont Avenue

Cincinnati, OH 45255

513-474-5636

Clifton

332 Ludlow Avenue

Cincinnati, OH 45220

513-281-4749

Deerfield

5076 Natorp Boulevard

Mason, OH 45040

513-339-0140

Finneytown

899 West Galbraith

Cincinnati, OH 45232

513-522-8157

Foutain Square

511 Walnut Street

Cincinnati, OH 45202

513-381-4191

Hyde Park Square

2704 Erie Avenue

Cincinnati, OH 45208

513-321-6221

Kenwood

7369 Kenwood Road

Cincinnati, OH 45236

513-793-5665

Mariemont Square

6918 Wooster Pike

Cincinnati, OH 45227

513-272-0859

Northgate

9356 Colerain Avenue

Cincinnati, OH 45251

513-385-5045

Springdale

11511 Princeton Road

Cincinnati, OH 45246

513-771-7157

Western Hills

2376 Ferguson Road

Cincinnati, OH

45238 513-755-2236

Western Hills

3301 Westbourne Drive

Cincinnati, OH 45248

513-922-8700

C
OLUMBUS

Corporate Office/Bethel Road

2555 Bethel Road

Columbus, OH 43220

614-442-7622

Bexley

2282 East Main Street

Bexley, OH 43209

614-236-2263

Dublin

6255 Frantz Road

Dublin, OH 43017

614-799-2663

Easton

147 Easton Town Center

Columbus, OH 43219

614-476-2094

Gahanna

425 Beecher Road

Gahanna, OH 43230

614-855-5508

Grove City

4009 Broadway

Grove City, OH 43123

614-277-9011

Pickerington

1500 Cross Creeks Boulevard

Pickerington, OH 43147

614-755-0865

Powell

3762 West Powell Road

Powell, OH 43065

614-336-3661

Upper Arlington

1534 West Lane Avenue

Columbus, OH 43221

614-488-3222

Westerville

1 North State Street

Westerville, OH 43081

614-895-0553

Worthington

654 High Street

Worthington, OH 43085

614-848-5151

D
AYTON

Beavercreek

2330-A North Fairfield Road

Beavercreek, OH 45431

937-427-4700

Centerville

2 North Main Street

Centerville, OH 45459

937-312-9001

Oakwood

2412 Far Hills Avenue

Dayton, OH 45419

937-534-0602

Springboro

752 Gardner Road

Springboro, OH 45066

937-748-0300

L
EXINGTON

Brighton Place Shoppes

3090 Helmsdale Place

Lexington, KY 40509

859-543-0446

Lexington

325 Romany Road

Lexington, KY 40502

859-543-0446

Palomar

3735 Harrodsburg Road

Lexington, KY 40513

859-296-9636

Tates Creek

4101 Tates Creek Road

Lexington, KY 40517

859-245-4037

L
OUISVILLE

Fern Creek

6509 Bardstown Road

Louisville, KY 40291

502-231-2083

Highlands Douglass Loop

2204 Bardstown Road

Louisville, KY 40205

502-451-0044

The Horseshoe Casino Hotel Southern Indiana

11999 Casino Center Drive

Elizabeth, IN 47117

812-969-9100

Landis Lakes

13817 English Villa Drive

Louisville, KY 40245

502-254-1760

New Albany

4310 Charlestown Road

New Albany, IN 47150

812-949-6263

Springhurst

9430 Brownsboro Road

Louisville, KY 40241

502-327-0651

N
ORTHERN
K
ENTUCKY

Florence

8860 U.S. Highway 42

Florence, KY 41042

859-384-9130

Fort Mitchell

301 Buttermilk Pike

Fort Mitchell, KY 41017

859-781-7770

Newport

1409 North Grand Avenue

Newport, KY 41071

859-781-7770

Newport on the Levee

342 Monmouth Street

Newport, KY 41071

859-261-3160

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Agnew, Ronnie. “Yogurt Challenges Premium Ice Cream.”
Cincinnati Enquirer
, October 3, 1988.

Blank Fasig, Lisa. “No Sugar Coating.”
Business Courier
, February 6, 2004.

Buckley, Christopher. “Ice Cream: A Memoir.”
www.forbes.com
. June 19, 2006.

Castrodale, Beth. “Graeter's Dips into Ky. Market.”
Cincinnati Enquirer
, June 29, 1987.

Chatzky, Jean. “Get the Scoop.”
Money
, August 2006.

Cho, Janet. “Pierre's Ice Cream Co. Gets Unanimous Approval for $6 Million Expansion from Cleveland Planning Commission.”
Cleveland Plain Dealer
, September 4, 2009.

Cincinnati
. “Hometown Foods That Define Our City.” June 2004.

Cincinnati Enquirer
. “Illness Is Fatal to Mrs. Graeter, Confectioner, 80.” December 27, 1955.

Cincinnati Enquirer
. “My Lover's a Rover.” March 18, 1887.

“Cincinnati–Northern Kentucky Metropolitan Area.”
www.statemaster.com/encyclopedia/Cincinnati/Northern-Kentucky-metropolitan-area#history
.

“Farming in the 40s: Changes in Eating Habits.”
www.livinghistoryfarm.org/farminginthe40s/life_24.html
.

Food Timeline FAQs: Ice Cream & Ice, the Food Timeline.
www.foodtimeline.org/foodicecream.html
.

Friedman, Brian. “Ice Cream Worth Any Price?”
Cincinnati Enquirer
, September 10, 1983.

“Frozen Yogurt.”
www.madehow.com/Volume-2/Frozen-Yogurt.html
.

Gallagher, Patricia. “Gently, Graeter's Expands.”
Cincinnati Enquirer
, March 13, 1989.

———. “Graeter's Sweet on Kroger: Grocery Stores Offer 24-Hour, Year-Round Market.”
Cincinnati Enquirer
, March 8, 1990.

BOOK: Greater's Ice Cream
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