Gluten-Free Makeovers (12 page)

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Recipe credit: Adapted with permission from Sarah R. Labensky, Eddy Van Damme, and Priscilla Martel,
On Baking: A Textbook of Baking and Pastry Fundamentals
, second edition (Prentice Hall: 2008).

Dairy-free

This dense, chewy
bread is nutritious thanks to the addition of potato and chickpea flour. It was the culmination of a brainstorming session with fellow chef, Rebecca Reilly, who said she needed baguettes. “Who doesn’t?” I said. These are great for rolls and bread sticks, too. Enjoy as is or slice and use for bruschetta. For a simple, yummy appetizer, top slices with a mixture of chopped pepperoni and grated cheese and broil until the cheese melts.

Combine the flours, xanthan gum, and yeast in the bowl of a mixer. In a separate bowl, combine the water, eggs, olive oil, and vinegar. Add to the dry ingredients. Using a stand mixer or heavy-duty handheld mixer, beat at medium-high speed for 5 minutes, or until the mixture is smooth and thick. Add additional water, 1 tablespoon at a time, if necessary to achieve this consistency.

Line a double or triple baguette form with aluminum foil. Spray with vegetable spray or lightly oil and sprinkle cornmeal over the surface. Spread half or one-third of the dough over each form. Lightly oil a sheet of plastic wrap and smooth and form the baguettes. Cover with lightly oiled plastic wrap and let rise 20 to 30 minutes in a draft-free space.

Preheat the oven to 400°F.

Brush the risen dough with the beaten egg, if using. Using a sharp knife, cut shallow slits diagonally on the surface of each baguette. Bake 25 to 30 minutes. Turn onto a wire rack and cool before slicing.

To make hamburger rolls or bread sticks, just scoop this dough into bun pans, muffin top forms, or bread stick pans. Smooth the surface with lightly oiled plastic wrap. Let rise and bake. For bread sticks, bake 15 to 20 minutes; for rolls bake 20 to 25 minutes.

Tip
:
For a crispier crust, remove the baked baguettes from the pan and set on a rack in the oven. Bake for an additional 5 minutes.

Grandma’s Babka might
be redundant as babka means grandmother in Polish, probably because the traditional shape of this slightly sweet Easter bread is reminiscent of an old woman’s wide full skirt. As I made over this Ukrainian version, I was reminded that gluten-free flour does not absorb liquids the same way that gluten-filled flour does. The original formula called for 4½ cups of milk, which produced a very wet dough that sank the minute I took it out of the oven. I cut back to 1¾ cups milk and now it is every bit as good as the babka my grandma made.

Lightly oil two 6-cup brioche pans or two 8-inch springform pans.

Combine the flour blend, lemon zest, and yeast in a bowl and mix well with a wire whisk; set aside.

Place the sugar, egg, and egg yolks in the bowl of a stand mixer or a large mixing bowl. Using the paddle attachment or a heavy-duty handheld mixer, mix until the mixture has thickened and becomes pale yellow. Add 2 cups of the flour mixture and half the milk and beat to incorporate. Add the remaining flour mixture and the remaining milk and beat briefly. Add the butter and brandy and mix on low to blend. Increase the speed to medium and beat for 2 to 3 minutes, until the dough is smooth and thick. Fold in the raisins.

Spoon the dough into the prepared pans. Smooth the top with a spatula and cover with lightly oiled plastic wrap. Let rise in a warm, draft-free area until doubled in size (up to 1 hour).

Preheat the oven to 200°F. Remove the plastic wrap. Set the pans in the oven for 10 minutes to finish rising. Remove and brush the tops with the egg wash.