French Classics Made Easy (43 page)

2.
Prepare the potatoes according to the style of French-fried potato you want (see Variations), and soak the potatoes in a bowl of cold water until ready to use.

3.
Place the oil in a deep-fryer with a frying basket and heat to the temperature specified for the style of potato you are making (see Variations). Temperatures will range from 320°F to 400°F, depending on the thickness of the prepared potato.

4.
Drain the potatoes and dry between several layers of paper towels. Place about two handfuls of potato pieces in the frying basket (any more and the temperature of the oil will drop, increasing the frying time and causing the potatoes to absorb too much oil). Slowly lower the potatoes into the hot oil. If the potatoes are wet, the oil may boil violently. Remove the basket at once. In such cases it may be necessary to lower the basket in steps to avoid excess spattering, which can be dangerous. Shake the basket frequently to prevent the potatoes from sticking.

5.
The potatoes are done when they are golden brown and tender. Drain them in the frying basket, then on paper towels. Sprinkle with salt and serve while still hot. Though best served hot from the fryer, they can be kept warm in a 300°F oven for a short time.

NOTE

When trimming potatoes for any of the fried potato recipes (step 1), do what a professional cook would do: Save the potato scraps to use in soups or to make mashed potatoes. Throw the scraps into a bowl of cold water as you work to prevent them from discoloring.

IN ADDITION

When I am asked why potatoes fried in America don’t taste like the potatoes fried in France, I reply that both our potatoes and the oil we use to fry them differ. The best flavor is achieved when a combination of animal fats (beef, veal, and pork) is used. Since animal fats are unhealthy,
however, we avoid frying with them, sacrificing that true French flavor. The texture of fried potatoes in America also differs from the French because most of ours are made from brown-skinned russets (baking potatoes), while the French use a yellow potato closer in texture to our Yukon Gold potatoes (see “Yellow Potatoes,” facing page).

VARIATIONS

T
HICK
-C
UT
F
RENCH
F
RIES

[POMMES PONT-NEUF]

These are 3½-inch-long French fries cut ½-inch square that need to be fried at two temperatures. First fry them at 350°F until the potatoes are cooked but not browned, about 7 minutes. A potato pressed between thumb and forefinger should crush. (If you are unaccustomed to handling very hot food, do not attempt this test. Instead, use the back of a spoon to crush the potato on a plate or counter.) This first frying can be done several hours ahead of time. Just before serving, fry the potatoes again at 390°F to 400°F until golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes.

F
RENCH
F
RIES

[POMMES FRITES]

This term generally refers to potatoes cut into strips ¼ inch square and about 2½ inches long. They can either be fried like the
pommes Pont-Neuf,
requiring only about 5 minutes for the initial frying and about 1 minute to brown at the higher temperature, or they can be fried all at once at 350°F until they color, 7 to 8 minutes.

P
UFFED
S
LICED
P
OTATOES

[POMMES SOUFFLÉES]

These little air-filled crunchy pillows take care and time to prepare, but are a guaranteed hit. The potatoes should simply be peeled, not squared. Slice them lengthwise into ⅛- to 3/16-inch-thick ovals, taking care to cut them evenly. Cooking in small batches, drop the slices by the handful into 325°F oil. When the
bubbling of the oil ceases, use a frying skimmer to remove the slices and drain on paper towels. At this point, the potatoes should have little or no color. Increase the temperature of the oil to 400°F, add the potatoes, and they should immediately puff and brown. If they have not browned sufficiently, they will collapse on cooling. Should this happen, refry them and some will puff again. Not all slices will puff. These potatoes need to be practiced on your family and friends before attempting to impress guests. Serve the potatoes salted, in a napkin-lined serving dish.

W
AFFLED
F
RENCH
F
RIES
:
Pommes Gaufrettes

To make
gaufrettes,
you will need a vegetable slicer with a ripple blade. Peel but don’t square the potatoes and slice them ⅛ inch thick. Make the first cut with the ripple slicer, then rotate the potato one-quarter turn to make the next cut. Continue to rotate the potatoes one-quarter turn back and forth as they pass across the rippled blade to give them the traditional open basket-weave design that resembles a waffle. Cook as for the Potato Chips on
page 200
, about 3 minutes.

P
OTATO
C
HIPS

[POMMES CHIPS]

The potatoes should simply be peeled, not squared, and thinly sliced (a food processor works well), then fried in very hot oil (390°F to 400°F). The chips should be golden brown in about 2 minutes.

J
ULIENNED
P
OTATOES

[POMMES JULIENNE]

The potatoes are first thinly sliced and then cut into thin julienne and fried as for potato chips (this page).

P
OTATO
S
TRAWS AND
M
ATCHSTICKS

[POMMES PAILLES ET ALLUMETTES]

Both are cut about ⅛ inch thick;
allumettes
(matchsticks) are 2 inches long and
pailles
(straws) are as long as the potato will allow. Fry at 375°F until golden brown, about 3 minutes.

GRATIN DAUPHINOIS

A gratin is a dish having a crusted or browned surface. Originating in the region of the Alps known as the Dauphiné, this simple and easy potato dish is truly one of France’s great gratins and is ideal to serve with roast beef, lamb, and poultry.

Many different versions of this gratin recipe exist. Some are made with cream and cheese, while others are made with milk, eggs, and cheese. I think the best are made just with a combination of milk and cream, which I heat before baking to cut the oven time in half. (If you are not in a rush, you can eliminate this step, but cook the potatoes for 1 hour.)

SERVES 6

Butter, for baking dish

4 pounds large Yukon Gold potatoes (about 8), peeled and cut into ⅛-inch-thick slices

1 clove garlic, chopped

1 teaspoon salt

⅛ teaspoon freshly ground pepper

1 cup milk

1 cup heavy cream

1.
Preheat the oven to 450°F with the oven rack in the middle position. Butter a large (9 x 14 inches) baking dish.

2.
Layer the sliced potatoes in the baking dish and sprinkle with the garlic, salt, and pepper.

3.
In a small saucepan, combine the milk and cream and bring to a boil over medium heat. Pour over the layered potatoes.

4.
Bake the potatoes until their tops are brown and they are tender (a knife will easily penetrate them), 35 to 40 minutes. The potatoes should simmer or gently boil while in the oven. If they begin to boil rapidly, or the top browns before they are tender, reduce the heat by 25 to 50 degrees.

5.
Remove the dish from the oven and serve. The potatoes will stay hot for about 30 minutes. (The gratin can be made ahead of time. Let cool to room temperature, cover, and refrigerate. Reheat by bringing back to room temperature and then placing in a 350°F oven for 15 minutes.)

IN ADDITION

Recipes differ in how the potatoes for a
gratin dauphinois
are prepared. Some chefs insist on slicing and soaking the potatoes in cold water to rid them of their surface starch before baking. Others, including myself, believe the starch is necessary for the creamy consistency of the potatoes. However, if you prepare the potatoes ahead of time, they do need to be soaked to prevent them from discoloring. Therefore, for this recipe, if you slice the potatoes in advance, soak them in the milk and cream in which they will be cooked so as not to lose the starch.

VARIATION

Sprinkle 2 ounces grated Swiss-style cheese (about ⅔ cup), such as Gruyère or Emmentaler, over the gratin in step 3.

POTATOES A LA BOULANGERE

[POMMES DE TERRE À LA BOULANGÈRE]

It was the practice on Sundays in many towns throughout France to leave a piece of meat with the town
boulangère
(baker) to be roasted. The roast would be dropped off at the baker’s shop on the way to church and picked up, fully cooked, on the way home.

The baker would place the meat on racks in his bread ovens and position baking dishes filled with sliced potatoes and onions beneath the roasts to catch their juices while cooking. Sometimes the bakers would roast the meat directly on top of the sliced potatoes and onion. The potatoes were simply moistened with water, but would pick up flavor from the dripping fat and meat juices. Thus, the origin of the name
à la boulangère,
or “in the style of the baker.”

I have specified that the onions be sautéed, a step that slightly increases your work but substantially increases the flavor of the finished dish.

SERVES 6

P
OTATOES
S
AVOYARDE
:
Pommes de Terre Savoyarde

You can turn
pommes de terre à la boulangère
into a hearty main dish from the Savoy, high in the French Alps, by combining with 3 ounces of diced ham or cooked bacon and ⅔ cup of grated Swiss-style cheese (about 2 ounces), such as Gruyère or Emmentaler. When served with a green salad and fruit for dessert, these potatoes become a wholesome meal.

1 tablespoon butter

2 onions, chopped

4 pounds large Yukon Gold potatoes (about 8), peeled and cut into ⅛-inch-thick slices

1 teaspoon salt

⅛ teaspoon freshly ground pepper

2 cups chicken or beef stock, homemade or canned (see chart,
page 305
)

1.
Preheat the oven to 450°F.

2.
In a skillet, melt the butter over medium-high heat. Add the onions and sauté until lightly browned, about 4 minutes.

3.
Layer the potatoes and onions in an ovenproof casserole or baking dish and season with the salt and pepper.

4.
In a saucepan, bring the stock to a boil and
pour it over the potatoes and onions. Bake the casserole in the oven until the potatoes are tender, about 45 minutes. Adjust the oven temperature if necessary so that the stock boils gently. (These potatoes are best served hot from the oven, but may be cooked in advance and reheated. When reheating, add 2 tablespoons stock or water.)

POTATO PUFFS

[POMMES DE TERRE DAUPHINE]

Made from mashed potatoes and cream-puff pastry,
pommes de terre dauphine
are potato puffs that are fried just before serving. They are good served with roasted meats like beef, lamb, chicken, and turkey. The batter can be prepared up to a day in advance to make their preparation easier. It is important to dry the mashed potatoes to extract any excess moisture. If the potatoes are too wet, the puffs will be heavy instead of light. For the same reason, make sure any ingredients mixed with the batter (see Variations) are also dry.

SERVES 4 TO 6

1½ pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled, boiled, and mashed (see Note)