Food in Jars (29 page)

S
ECKEL PEARS ARE THOSE ADORABLE MINIATURE
pears that you often see at farmers' markets and specialty grocers. They have firm flesh and a mellow, crisp taste that works well with this gingery syrup. I find pear skin inoffensive, so I don't peel pears prior to canning. If you're not a fan, feel free to peel before packing them into the jars. For a quick dessert for a party or potluck, make a simple cake batter, pour it into a greased 8x8-inch pan, and push these pear halves into the surface in a grid pattern. It makes for a tender, wonderfully flavored cake.

5 pounds/2.3 kg Seckel pears

1½ cups/300 g granulated sugar

1 cup/240 ml ginger juice (see page 000)

Prepare a boiling water bath and 4 regular-mouth 1-pint/500 ml jars according to the process on page 10. Place the lids in a small saucepan, cover them with water, and
simmer over very low heat.

Cut the pears in half and remove the seeds and blossom end of the fruit using a melon baller. Make the syrup by combining the sugar with the ginger juice and 2 cups/480 ml water in a medium saucepan. Place over medium heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved.

While the syrup heats, pack the pear halves, cut-side down, into the prepared jars. Use a wooden chopstick or narrow-head silicone spatula to help you layer them into the jars. It's best to use regular-mouth jars instead of wide-mouth jars in this instance, as the shoulders of the jars will help keep the pears from floating out of the syrup after processing. Pack the pears in as tightly as you can manage without damaging them.

When all the pears are in the jars, ladle the hot syrup over them, leaving ½ inch/12 mm headspace. Gently tap the jars on a towel-lined countertop to help loosen any bubbles before using a wooden chopstick to dislodge any remaining bubbles and add additional syrup, if necessary.

Wipe the rims, apply the lids and rings, and process in a boiling water bath for 25 minutes (see
page 11
).

Note:
Because they're so small, Seckel pears can also be canned whole. This is a great technique when you're overwhelmed by fruit and short on time. Wash the pears well, remove the stems, pack them into quart (1 liter) jars, cover with syrup, and process for 30 minutes. If you opt for this technique, you'll need to increase the amount of syrup by half.

PLUMS IN HONEY SYRUP

T
HESE WHOLE CANNED PLUMS HAVE SAVED ME
from uninspired breakfasts, lunches, and dinners more than once. On the weekends, I will turn them into compote for pancakes or waffles. On weekdays, these sweet plums are wonderful stirred into morning oatmeal or with a dish of cottage cheese for lunch. Around dinnertime, combine them with some sautéed onions and a splash of vinegar for a sweet and tart pan sauce for meat or grilled vegetables. Finally, the syrup makes a fabulous addition to glasses of sparkling water or cocktails. The canning process does the work of cooking the plums, so the pits are easy to pinch out.

1 cup/240 ml honey

3 pounds/1.4 kg small, sweet plums

4 cinnamon sticks (optional)

1 whole vanilla bean, cut into 4 pieces (optional)

Prepare a boiling water bath and 4 regular-mouth 1-pint/500 ml jars according to the process on page 10. Place the lids in a small saucepan, cover them with water, and simmer over very low heat.

In a medium saucepan, combine the honey with 3 cups/720 ml water and bring to a simmer.

Wash and dry the plums thoroughly and pack them tightly into the prepared jars. If you've chosen to add the cinnamon or vanilla, tuck a length of either (or both) in the jars at this time.

When all the plums are in the jars, ladle the hot syrup over them, leaving ½ inch/12 mm of headspace. Gently tap the jars on a towel-lined countertop to help loosen any bubbles before using a wooden chopstick to dislodge any remaining bubbles and add additional syrup, if necessary.

Wipe the rims, apply the lids and rings, and process in a boiling water bath for 20 minutes (see
page 11
).

Plums in Honey Syrup and Boozy Canned Peaches

SPICED APPLESAUCE

T
O ME, APPLESAUCE IS THE QUINTESSENTIAL FALL
food. I have fond memories of wandering the antique apple orchard at the Bybee-Howell House on Sauvie Island, bundled up in layers against the chill, gathering windfall apples. Now my apples come from the orchards around Philadelphia but the ritual of chopping and simmering into sauce is the same. I like having supplies of this around for baking, cooking, and late-night snacking.

5 pounds/2.3 kg apples (a mix of varieties is best so choose your favorites; see note on
page 47
)

½ cup/120 ml apple juice or cider

2 whole star anise

1 tablespoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

½ teaspoon ground cloves

1 cup/200 g (about) granulated sugar

Prepare a boiling water bath and 4 regular-mouth 1-pint/500 ml jars according to the process on page 10. Place the lids in a small saucepan, cover them with water, and simmer over very low heat.

Peel and chop the apples. Put them in a large, nonreactive pot. Add the apple cider and star anise. Cover and bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring regularly, until the fruit has broken down, about 15 to 20 minutes.

Remove the star anise. Using a potato masher or immersion blender, break down the fruit until it is a chunky sauce. Add the cinnamon, nutmeg, and cloves. Taste and add as much sugar as your taste buds determine necessary.

Pour the applesauce into the prepared jars, leaving ¾ inch/18 mm headspace. Wipe the rims, apply the lids and rings, and process in a boiling water bath for 15 minutes (see
page 11
).

When the processing time is up, remove the canning pot from the heat and remove the lid. Let the jars sit in the pot for an additional 5 minutes to prevent the applesauce from reacting to the temperature change and bubbling out of the jars.

I
F YOU'RE THE TYPE WHO SEARCHES OUT THE WINE-
soaked fruit in the bottom of a pitcher of sangria, these cherries are for you. Don't use a super expensive bottle of wine; anything that's drinkable and not too sweet works well. Try these over ice cream or with a slice of pound cake.

2 cups/480 ml dry red wine

1½ cups/300 g granulated sugar

1 vanilla bean, split and scraped

Zest of 1 lemon

4 pounds/1.8 kg Bing cherries, pitted

Prepare a boiling water bath and 4 regular-mouth 1-pint/500 ml jars according to the process on page 10. Place the lids in a small saucepan, cover them with water, and simmer over very low heat.

In a medium saucepan, combine the red wine, 1 cup/240 ml water, the sugar, vanilla bean and seeds, and lemon zest. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring until the sugar is dissolved.

Pack the pitted cherries into the prepared jars and ladle in the hot syrup, leaving ½ inch/12 mm headspace. Gently tap the jars on a towel-lined countertop to help loosen any bubbles before using a wooden chopstick to dislodge any remaining bubbles and add additional syrup, if necessary.

Wipe the rims, apply the lids and rings, and process in a boiling water bath for 25 minutes (see
page 11
).

HONEYED APRICOTS

P
EACHES ARE NICE, NECTARINES ARE LOVELY, BUT
as far as I'm concerned, apricots are the stars of the summer stone fruit season. Sweet, tart, fragrant, and just slightly floral, good apricots are transformational. During their season, I like to make apricot jam and butter, but I never fail to put some up in a honey syrup. Try these apricots halves stirred into yogurt, alongside cottage cheese, or in a fruity crisp at holiday time.

1¼ cups/300 ml honey

4 pounds/1.8 kg ripe apricots

Prepare a boiling water bath and 4 regular-mouth 1-pint/500 ml jars according to the process on page 10. Place the lids in a small saucepan, cover them with water, and simmer over very low heat.

In a medium saucepan, combine the honey with 3 cups/720 ml water and bring to a simmer.

Wash and dry the apricots thoroughly, cut them in half, and remove the pits. Tightly pack the apricot halves, cut-side down, into the prepared jars.

When all the apricots are in the jars, ladle the hot syrup over them, leaving ½ inch/12 mm of headspace.

Gently tap the jars on a towel-lined countertop to help loosen any bubbles before using a wooden chopstick to dislodge any remaining bubbles and add additional syrup, if necessary.

Wipe the rims, apply the lids and rings, and process in a boiling water bath for 20 minutes (see
page 11
).

BLUEBERRIES IN SYRUP