Eating Italy: A Chef's Culinary Adventure (51 page)

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Authors: Jeff Michaud

BOOK: Eating Italy: A Chef's Culinary Adventure

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Bring the sugar, glucose syrup, and 2 cups (475 ml) of water to a simmer in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Put the cocoa powder in a large heatproof bowl and whisk in about ½ cup (120 ml) of the hot sugar syrup to make a smooth paste. Whisk in the remaining sugar syrup until smooth. For a supersilky texture, strain through a fine-mesh sieve. The sauce can be covered and refrigerated for up to 2 weeks before using. Reheat gently over low heat.

GELATO AND SORBET

The recipes that follow are the real-deal gelato and sorbetto. Don’t worry about the oddball ingredients here and there; they can all be ordered over the Internet (see Sources on
page 289
). There are two gelato bases, and different bases are used to make different flavors of gelato. The flavors themselves are given as variations under the base recipes. Note that some of the gelato flavors make about 6 cups (1.5 L). If that’s too much volume for your ice-cream machine, make a smaller batch, or churn half of the base at a time. And make sure you check the machine as the gelato churns; overchurning can make the gelato grainy. Stop churning when the gelato is nice and creamy.

YELLOW GELATO BASE

MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS (1 L)

2 cups (475 ml) whole milk

2 cups (475 ml) heavy cream

15 large egg yolks

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (225 g) granulated sugar

Bring the milk and cream to a simmer in a saucepan over medium heat, and then remove from the heat. Meanwhile, whip the egg yolks and sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment on medium-high speed until light, fluffy, and pale yellow, about 3 minutes. Reduce the speed to medium-low and mix about 1 cup (235 ml) of the hot cream mixture into the yolk mixture. Stir the yolk mixture back into the remaining cream mixture in the pan. Return the pan to low heat and cook, stirring frequently, until it registers 160°F (71°C), 5 to 8 minutes. Fill a bowl with ice water, and then strain the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve into a heatproof bowl. Rest the bowl in the ice water to cool it down. It will keep covered in the refrigerator for 1 week.

VARIATIONS

FOR PISTACHIO GELATO:
Use an immersion blender, stand blender, or food processor to blend together 2¾ cups (675 ml) of white gelato base (
page 287
), ⅔ cup (150 ml) of yellow gelato base, ⅓ cup (90 ml) of PreGel pistachio paste (see the Sources on
page 290
), and 2½ tablespoons (37 ml) sugar syrup (
page 288
). Blend until smooth, and for a super-silky gelato, strain through a medium-mesh sieve. Transfer to an ice-cream machine and freeze according to the manufacturer’s directions. Makes about 6 cups (1.5 L).

FOR CHINOTTO GELATO:
Pour 3 quarts (3 L) of chinotto into a large saucepan and boil over medium-high heat until reduced to a thick, molasses-like syrup, 45 to 50 minutes. You should have about 1½ cups (375 ml) of chinotto reduction. Use an immersion blender, stand blender, or food processor to blend together the chinotto reduction, 3 cups (750 ml) of white base (
page 287
), and ¾ cup (175 ml) of yellow base. Blend until smooth, 1 to 2 minutes, and then freeze in an ice-cream machine according to the manufacturer’s directions. Makes about 6 cups (1.5 L).

FOR CANTUCCI GELATO:
Use an immersion blender, stand blender, or food processor to blend together 3 cups (750 ml) of white base (
page 287
) and 1 cup (235 ml) of yellow base. Blend until smooth, and then freeze in an ice-cream machine according to the manufacturer’s directions. When the mixture is halfway frozen, fold in 2½ cups (300 g) coarsely crushed Cantucci (
page 229
) and continue freezing according to the manufacturer’s directions. Makes about 6 cups (1.5 L).

WHITE GELATO BASE

MAKES ABOUT 5 CUPS (1.25 L)

4 cups (1 L) whole milk

1 cup (235 ml) heavy cream

¾ cup (150 g) granulated sugar

⅔ cup (85 g) PreGel dry milk powder (see Sources,
page 290
)

¼ cup (28 ml) dextrose or 3 tablespoons (22 g) superfine sugar

Pinch of salt

2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons (52 g) glucose syrup or light corn syrup

Whisk together the milk, cream, sugar, milk powder, dextrose, salt, and glucose syrup in a large saucepan over medium-low heat. Whisk frequently until the mixture registers 140°F (60°C) on a candy thermometer. Lower the heat to its lowest setting so that the mixture maintains a temperature of 140°F (60°C) for 30 minutes (periodically check the temperature, especially during the last 10 minutes of cooking, and adjust the heat as necessary to maintain that temperature). Fill a bowl with ice water and increase the heat under the saucepan to medium. When the temperature of the white base reaches 180°F (82°C), remove the saucepan from the heat, plunge the bottom of the pan into the ice water, and stir until the white base cools. It will keep covered in the refrigerator for 1 week.

VARIATIONS

FOR FIORDILATTE GELATO:
Make the white base as directed and freeze in an ice-cream machine according to the manufacturer’s directions. Makes about 5 cups (1.25 L).

FOR MASCARPONE GELATO:
Use an immersion blender, stand blender, or food processor to blend together 2½ cups (625 ml) of white gelato base, 2 cups (460 g/about 1 pound) of mascarpone, and ½ cup (120 ml) of sugar syrup (
page 288
). Blend until smooth, and for a super-silky gelato, strain through a medium-mesh sieve. Transfer to an ice-cream machine and freeze according to the manufacturer’s directions. Makes about 5 cups (1.25 L).

FOR POPPY SEED GELATO:
Bring 9 tablespoons (140 ml) of water, 1 tablespoon (9 g) of poppy seeds, and ⅓ cup (67 g) of granulated sugar to a boil in a small saucepan. Whisk in ½ teaspoon (1 g) of agar powder (a natural thickener carried in health food stores or the Asian section of large supermarkets). Return the liquid to a boil and boil for 30 seconds. Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature. Whisk in 4 cups (1 L) of white gelato base until blended, and then freeze in an ice-cream machine according to the manufacturer’s directions. Makes about 6 cups (1.5 L).

FOR POLENTA GELATO:
Bring 4 cups (1 L) of whole milk and ½ teaspoon (3 g) of salt to a simmer in a large saucepan over high heat. Slowly whisk in ½ cup (80 g) of coarse yellow cornmeal (polenta), and then lower the heat to medium-low and cook until the polenta is soft and the milk has been absorbed, 25 to 30 minutes, whisking frequently to prevent the polenta from burning on the bottom. Measure out 2¼ cups (560 ml) of the cooked polenta and refrigerate any extra for another use. Use an immersion blender, stand blender, or food processor to blend together the 2¼ cups (560 ml) of cooked polenta, 2½ cups (625 ml) of white base, and ½ cup (120 ml) of sugar syrup (
page 288
). Blend until very smooth, 3 to 4 minutes, and then freeze in an ice-cream machine according to the manufacturer’s directions. Makes 4 to 5 cups (1 to 1.25 L).

FOR BUTTERMILK GELATO:
Use an immersion blender, stand blender, or food processor to blend 2¼ cups (560 ml) of buttermilk, 1⅔ cups (400 ml) of white gelato base, and ¾ cup (175 ml) of sugar syrup (
page 288
). Blend until smooth, and for a super-silky gelato, strain the mixture through a medium-mesh sieve. Freeze in an ice-cream machine according to the manufacturer’s directions. Makes about 4 cups (1 L).

SUGAR SYRUP

MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS (1 L)

3 cups (600 g) granulated sugar

½ cup (120 ml) glucose syrup or light corn syrup

2 tablespoons (14.25 g) powdered dextrose, or 1½ tablespoons (11.75 g) superfine sugar

Fill a bowl with ice water. Heat the sugar, glucose syrup, dextrose, and 1½ cups (375 ml) of water in a medium saucepan over low heat until the sugars dissolve, 3 to 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Plunge the pan bottom into the ice water to cool down the syrup. It can be covered and refrigerated for about 2 weeks before using.

VARIATIONS

FOR GOAT CHEESE SORBET:
Combine 10 ounces (284 g/about 1⅓ cups) of soft goat cheese, 1¼ cups (310 ml) of sugar syrup, 1 cup (235 ml) of water, and 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of glucose syrup or light corn syrup in a blender. Puree until very smooth, 2 to 3 minutes. Freeze in an ice-cream machine according to the manufacturer’s directions. Makes about 4 cups (1 L).

FOR RASPBERRY SORBET:
Combine 3¼ cups (14 ounces/400 g) of fresh raspberries, 2 cups (475 ml) of sugar syrup, and ¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons of water (205 ml) in a blender. Puree until very smooth, 2 to 3 minutes, and then strain through a fine-mesh strainer. Freeze in an ice-cream machine according to the manufacturer’s directions. Makes about 4 cups (1 L).

FOR PEACH SORBET:
Combine 2⅔ cups (14 ounces/400 g) of peeled, pitted and sliced peaches, 2 cups of sugar syrup (475 ml), and ¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons (205 ml) of water in a blender. Puree until very smooth, 2 to 3 minutes, and then strain through a fine-mesh strainer. Freeze in an ice-cream machine according to the manufacturer’s directions. Makes about 4 cups (1 L).

CANDIED CITRUS PEEL

Drop a few of these sweet peels on ice cream, cake, or anywhere you want the perfume of citrus. Just be sure to remove all the bitter white pith and to julienne the peels super-fine. The recipe here is for candied orange peel or candied lemon peel, but you could use other citrus. You’ll need enough for about one cup (235 ml) of citrus peels.

MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP (235 ML)

5 oranges, or 10 lemons

5 cups (1 kg) granulated sugar

2 cups plus 2 tablespoons (530 ml) water, plus some for blanching

⅔ cup (150 ml) glucose syrup or light corn syrup

Use a vegetable peeler to remove the zest from the oranges or lemons in strips, leaving behind any white pith. Thinly julienne the peels and then place them in a medium saucepan with cold water to cover. Bring to a boil over high heat. As soon as the water comes to a rolling boil, drain the peels and cover again with cold water. Repeat the process to blanch the peels three times.

Combine the blanched peels, sugar, water, and glucose syrup in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat and cook until the liquid registers 225°F (110°C) on a candy thermometer, 15 to 20 minutes. Let cool and then store the peels in the syrup at room temperature for up to 1 month. Use the citrus-scented syrup for cocktails or to pour over ice cream.

SOURCES FOR THE COOK AND TRAVELER

Most of the ingredients and equipment I call for in my recipes are widely available. But here are some sources for oddball things, such as wild hare and
corzetti
stamps—along with a few of my favorite purveyors. I also listed contact information for most of the markets, shops, restaurants, wineries, bars, hotels, and inns mentioned throughout the book so you can visit these places yourself.

EQUIPMENT

Artisanal Pasta

Tools Sonoma, California

www.artisanalpastatools.com

707-939-6474

Corzetti stamps.

The Baking Pan

www.thebakingpan.com

Brioche molds, tart pans, and other baking supplies.

Barbecue Wood

P.O. Box 8163

Yakima, WA 98908