Do It Gorgeously: How to Make Less Toxic, Less Expensive, and More Beautiful Products (11 page)

HOW TO

1.
First you need to cover all the hardware and surfaces that will not be painted. Use canvas tarps and painter’s tape to the edges. Unscrew electrical outlet covers and switch plates and tape around hardware that cannot be removed.

2.
Sand down all surfaces. The key to a great paint job is thorough sanding. Use a pole sander with 120-grit sandpaper. Sweep the sander from side to side and change paper when it gets clogged with dust. Make sure you start with the ceiling.

3.
Use a dampened coarse-grit sanding sponge to rough up all surfaces. Keep rinsing the sponge as you sand. Finish off the surfaces with a dampened fine-grit sanding sponge.

4.
Vacuum dust from the walls and trim/molding. Use a sponge, warm water, and dish soap to wash all surfaces. Rinse with clean water.

5.
Fill in holes and gaps. Use putty for small holes and caulk to fill in the gap where the wall meets the molding. Allow the filler to dry and sand with 120-grit sandpaper.

6.
Prime patched spots. Wait for the primer to dry and then sand with 120-grit sandpaper. Finally, wipe down with a damp sponge.

7.
Now comes the vital step of “cutting in” your edges. Dip the 2½-inch angled sash brush into a bucket of paint. Use the brush to cut in a 2- to 3-inch line or strip of paint in all four corners of the room, where the wall meets the ceiling and where it meets the molding.

8.
The second cutting-in step is along the lengths of the walls. The trick is to initially paint a strip of paint along the wall about 1 inch from the edge. Then roll the brush until you gather the tips of the bristles into a point. Carefully use this point to draw a line right up to the edge where the wall meets the trim.

9.
Time to get your roller going. Dampen the roller with water and then dip into the roller tray. (You should fill your tray with paint up to the start of grate.) Roll the roller on the grate to make sure the whole roller is evenly covered in paint.

10.
Roll a W or M shape on the walls, and use overlapping vertical strokes to paint between the lines. Overlap with the cutting-in line to blend away brush marks. Keep in mind that the first coat never looks good—so let it dry and get ready to apply your second coat.

11.
To paint the trim/molding, use your wide, straight-edged brush to paint the larger areas of the trim, and use your small-angled sash brush for the edges.

FLOORING

This is a hugely important consideration for a nursery, as new carpets can contain a cocktail of seriously toxic chemicals, including toluene, benzene, formaldehyde, styrene, and acetone (many are carcinogens). Also toxic are the flame-retardants, adhesives, and stain protectors. Old carpets can be just as bad and may also contain dust mites, dirt, and pesticides (brought in on the soles of your shoes).

You are much better off having bare wood floors with a 100% wool rug. Wool is wonderful, as it’s naturally flame-resistant and antimicrobial. If you want wall-to-wall carpeting because you live above an insomniac, or because it gets a bit drafty in the winter, I recommend looking at the natural fiber tiles from Flor (www.flor.com). I love this company, and they make DIY very easy. You simply pick out which carpet you want, calculate your measurements, and order your tiles—which are very easy to install. I managed to install a large area of carpet tiles in half an hour, so I’d suggest putting a morning aside for wall-to-wall. You’ll save a lot of money by installing your own, and you can order from the comfort of your living room. Flor is an environmentally conscious company that uses recycled and eco-friendly materials. All the carpet tiles are recyclable.

If you want to refinish a wood floor, I suggest using AFM Safecoat sealers and stains (www.afmsafecoat.com). They are nontoxic and are the best on the market.

Divine Drapes

Would it thrill you no end to be able to whip up a pair of bedroom drapes in under an hour? Well, you can—and very easily. The thought of making drapes has always been overwhelming for me. I never know where to begin, and the idea of struggling with yards of heavy fabric and a sewing machine that I’ve barely gotten the hang of sends chills down my spine. However, I’ve now figured out the solution—grommet drapes. You get to visit your local fabric store and pick from an enormous selection of exactly what you want. It’s such a thrill because when I’ve looked for drapes in the past, I rarely found the color or design I wanted, and the expense was extremely off-putting.

HOW TO

1.
Machine sew ½-inch hems on the long sides of each panel, ½ inch from the edge.

2.
Fold over a ¼-inch and then a 2-inch hem on the bottom edge of the panel. Press, pin, and then machine sew the hem.