Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster (41 page)

CHAPTER TWO: GROUP MENTALITY

The result:
Suzy Wetlaufer, “The Perfect Paradox of Star Brands,”
Harvard Business Review,
October 2001, p. 122.

The France:
Jennifer Steinhauer, “The King of Posh,”
New York Times,
August 17, 1997, Sec.3, p. 1.

“You have to”:
Joshua Levine, “Liberté, Fraternité—but to Hell with Egalité!”
Forbes,
June 2, 1997, p. 80.

Upon graduating:
Nadège Forestier and Nazanine Ravaï,
The Taste of Luxury: Bernard Arnault and the Moët-Hennessy Louis Vuitton Story
(London: Bloomsbury, 1992), p. 10.

Arnault fled:
Ibid., pp. 13–14.

“I can be”:
Ibid., p. 11.

Its only hope:
Hugh Sebag-Montefiore,
Kings on the Catwalk: The Louis Vuitton and Moët-Hennessy Affair
(London: Chapmans, 1992), pp. 23–24.

He convinced Lazard:
Levine, “Liberté, Fraternité,” p. 80.

It was perhaps:
Sebag-Montefiore,
Kings on the Catwalk,
p. 41.

He shocked:
David D. Kirkpatrick, “The Luxury Wars,”
New York Megazine,
April 26, 1999, p. 24.

Unlike Dior’s:
Sebag-Montefiore,
Kings on the Catwalk,
pp. 30–31.

When he took:
Forestier and Ravaï,
Taste of Luxury,
p. 17.

“I don’t want”:
Sebag-Montefiore,
Kings on the Catwalk,
p. 37.

In
1988
:
Nina Hyde, “The Battle of Lacroix,”
Washington Post,
April 7, 1988, p. C1.

Feeling beaten:
Sebag-Montefiore,
Kings of the Catwalk,
pp. 50–58.

In the spring:
Ibid., p. 137.

At one point:
Ibid., p. 220.

The French daily:
Forestier and Ravaï,
Taste of Luxury,
p. 93.

Finally, in April:
Sebag-Montefiore,
Kings on the Catwalk,
p. 232.

His motivation:
Forestier and Ravaï,
Taste of Luxury,
p. 106.

He expanded:
Wetlaufer, “The Perfect Paradox,” p. 121.

Carcelle was:
Deborah Ball, “Decisiveness and Charisma Put Yves Carcelle in the Hot Seat at LVMH’s Principle Division,”
Wall Street Journal Europe,
October 1, 2001, p. 31.

“You think of Vuitton”:
Zoe Heller, “Jacob’s Ladder,”
New Yorker,
September 22, 1997, p. 109.

“If you control”:
Levine, “Liberté, Fraternité,” p. 80.

By
2004
:
“LVMH: Full of Potential, Will It Be Realized?” Merrill Lynch, November 2002.

Dior’s sixty-three-year-old:
Sebag-Montefiore,
Kings on the Catwalk,
p. 192.

“[Audrey] Hepburn”:
Kirkpatrick, “The Luxury Wars,” p. 24.

In
1996
:
Levine, “Liberté, Fraternité,” p. 80.

“For a European”:
Steinhauer, “King of Posh,” p. 1.

“[Arnault] is”:
Ibid., p. 1.

He travels:
John Marcom Jr., “The Quiet Afrikaner behind Cartier,”
Forbes,
April 2, 1990, p. 114.

“We concentrate”:
William Hall, “Companies & Finance: When Time Is a Business’s Ultimate Luxury,”
Financial Times,
June 9, 2000, p. 34.

“It’s not just about”:
James Fallon, “Rupert’s Way: While Competitors Spend for Acquisitions Like There’s No Tomorrow, Richemont CEO Johann Rupert Plans for a Rainy Day,”
Women’s Wear Daily,
May 30, 2000, p. 8S.

“Product integrity”:
Ibid.

“We are not”:
Hall, “Companies & Finance,” p. 34.

“In five to ten”:
Fallon, “Rupert’s Way,” p. 8S.

Cartier accounts for:
Miles Socha, “Milking Fashion’s Cash Cows,”
WWD The Magazine,
November 3, 2003, p. 88.

By the late
1980
s:
Kirkpatrick, “Luxury Wars,” p. 24.

“It was pretty much”:
David Yoffie and Mary Kwak, “Gucci Group N.V. (A),” Harvard Business School case (9–701–037), May 10, 2001, p. 2.

Gucci sales:
Ibid., p. 9.

De Sole declared:
Kirkpatrick, “Luxury Wars,” p. 24.

Arnault said:
Ibid.

Pinault laughed:
Sarah Raper, “LVMH’s Arnault: The Tower and the Glory,”
Women’s Wear Daily,
December 6, 1999, p. 8.

When PPR took:
Yoffie and Kwak, “Gucci Group N.V. (A),” p. 14.

Her father, Gino:
Myriam de Cesco, “Galeotta fu una borsa,”
Lo Specchio,
January 8, 2000, pp. 76–80.

“We passed”:
Ibid.

“It can be”:
Michael Specter, “The Designer,”
New Yorker,
March 15, 2004, p. 112.

Once Bertelli:
Cathy Horyn, “Prada Central,”
Vanity Fair,
August 1997, p. 96.

By the end of
2001
:
Specter, “The Designer,” p. 114.

CHAPTER THREE: GOING GLOBAL

In February
1976
:
Kyojiro Hata,
Louis Vuitton Japan: The Building of Luxury
(New York: Assouline, 2004), p. 7.

“The serenity”:
Ibid., p. 11.

Hata came:
Ibid., p. 23.

“During the first ten years”:
Ibid., p. 75.

But the economic boom:
Claire Kent, Sarah Macdonald, Mandy Deex, and Michinori Shimizu, “Back from Japan,” Morgan Stanley Equity Research, Europe, November 14, 2001, pp. 3, 7.

They were the only:
Ilene R. Prusher, “Japanese Retailers Turn to ‘Shetailers,’”
Christian Science Monitor,
August 29, 2001, p. 1.

It was a wise:
Deborah Ball, “Decisiveness and Charisma Put Yves Carcelle in the Hot Seat at LVMH’s Principal Division,”
Wall Street Journal Europe,
October 1, 2001, p. 31.

In
2006
:
www.moodiereport.com/pdf/tmr_may_06_6.pdf.

In
1960
:
Stephanie Strom, “LVMH to Buy Duty-Free Empire for $2.47 Billion,”
New York Times,
October 30, 1996, p. D1.

Between
1977
and
1995
:
Judith Miller, “He Gave Away $600 Million, and No One Knew,”
New York Times,
January 23, 1997, p. A1.

“This was not”:
Jon Nordheimer, “Slaughtering the Cash Cow: Millions of Dollars Couldn’t Keep DFS Group Together,”
New York Times,
March 12, 1997, p. D1.

Feeney, the more:
Miller, “He Gave Away $600 Million,” p. A1.

Miller, by contrast:
Jerry Adler, “He Gave at the Office,”
Newsweek,
February 3, 1997, p. 34.

In
1994
:
David D. Kirkpatrick, “The Luxury Wars,”
New York Magazine,
April 26, 1999, p. 24.

Feeney and Parker:
Vicki M. Young, “Miller Threatens Suit after LVMH Pulls Out of Talks for DFS Stake,”
Women’s Wear Daily,
March 20, 1997, p. 1.

In
2003
:
“Japanese International Travelers: Trends and Shopping Behavior,” 2003 JTM/TFWA Japanese Traveler Study, Executive Summary, p. 1.

“Andy was”:
Joshua Levine,
The Rise and Fall of the House of Barneys
(New York: Morrow, 1999), p. 118.

For those who:
Ibid., p. 199.

“Rule No.
1
”:
Kate Betts, “The Retail Therapist,”
Time,
May 30, 2005, p. 53.

Sales at the Osaka:
Ibid.

After Marino renovated:
Miles Socha, “King Louis: Louis Vuitton’s New Clothing Store,”
Women’s Wear Daily,
October 10, 2005, p. 1.

Hata has long:
Hata,
Louis Vuitton Japan,
pp. 40–43.

“It’s luxury”:
Elizabeth Heilman Brooke, “Tokyo Club: A New Way to Shop,”
International Herald Tribune
, February 27, 2004, p. 14.

The total cost:
“Chanel Opens Flagship Shop in Tokyo’s Ritzy Ginza,” Agence France Presse, December 4, 2004.

CHAPTER FOUR: STARS GET IN YOUR EYES

Gucci nearly:
David B. Yoffie and Mary Kwak, “Gucci Group N.V. (A),” Harvard Business School, case 9-701-037, September 19, 2000; revised May 10, 2001, p. 10.

LVMH spent:
Federico Antoni, “LVMH in 2004: The Challenges of Strategic Integration,” Stanford Graduate School of Business, case SM–123, March, 17, 2004, p. 12.

“We are the largest”:
David D. Kirkpatrick, “The Luxury Wars,”
New York Magazine,
April 26, 1999, p. 24.

At Gucci:
Yoffie and Kwak, “Gucci Group N.V. (A),” p. 10.

Silent-screen siren:
Patty Fox,
Star Style: Hollywood Legends as Fashion Icons
(Santa Monica, Calif.: Angel City Press, 1995), pp. 76–77 and pp. 83–90.

When Crawford:
Ibid., p. 24.

Grace Kelly’s:
Ibid., p. 96.

Hollywood stars:
Ibid., p. 92.

sold their signatures:
Marian Hall, with Marjorie Carne and Sylvia Sheppard,
California Fashion: From the Old West to New Hollywood
(New York: Abrams, 2002), p. 92.

He originally settled:
Salvatore Ferragamo,
Shoemaker of Dreams: The Autobiography of Salvatore Ferragamo
(Florence: Giunti Gruppo Editoriale, 1985), pp. 37–48.

In the early
1920
s:
Ibid., pp. 51–54.

“Valentino would drop”:
Ibid., pp. 89–92.

But in
1955
:
Marie-France Pochna,
Christian Dior: The Man Who Made the World Look New
(New York: Arcade, 1996), pp. 161–162.

For most of the twentieth century:
Scott Huver and Mia Kaczinski Dunn,
Inside Rodeo Drive: The Store, the Stars, the Story
(Santa Monica, Calif.: Angel City Press, 2001),p. 12–18.

The Gucci store:
Sara Gay Forden,
The House of Gucci; A Sensational Story of Murder, Madness, Glamour, and Greed
(New York: HarperCollins, 2001), p. 39.

By the late
1970
s:
Anthony Cook, “Wheeling and Dealing on Status Street,”
New West
, February 27, 1978, p. 20.

Beverly Hills:
Ibid., p. 19.

Hayman was once:
Karen Stabiner, “Spring Fashion: King of the Hills,”
Los Angeles Times Magazine,
February 15, 1998, p. 18.

The neighborhood boys:
Judy Bachrach, “Armani in Full”,
Vanity Fair
, October 2000, p. 193.

Fred Pressman:
Joshua Levine,
The Rise and Fall of the House of Barneys
(New York: Morrow, 1999), p. 90.

In
1979
:
Michael Kaplan, “Blame It on Armani,”
Movieline
, September 19, 1999, p. 74.

When
Time
:
Levine,
House of Barneys
, p. 92.

Vogue’
s Anna Wintour:
Author interview, Paris, July, 2001.

Jennifer Meyer:
Jareen Stabiner, “Dressing Well Is the Best Revenge,”
Los Angeles Times Magazine
, December 11, 1988, p. 42.

“Those girls”:
Gaby Wood, “She’s Got the Look,”
Observer
, July 16, 2006, p. 12.

Zoe has even:
Booth Moore, “In Her Image: Rachel Zoe’s Clients (Lindsay, Nicole, Jessica) Often Look Like…Her,”
Los Angeles Times
, July 16, 2005, p. E1.

According to a study:
Lifestyle Monitor,
January, 2005.

Sir Elton:
Shawn Hubler and Gina Piccalo, “The Heirarchy,”
Los Angeles Times,
March 1, 2005, p. E5.

One prominent stylist:
Libby Callaway, “Red Carpet Catfighting: The Seamy Side of the Stars’ Style Wars,”
New York Post,
February 29, 2004, p. 48.

One stylist reportedly:
“Fat Chance,”
People Hollywood Daily,
February 26, 2005, p. 14.

Chopard’s:
Booth Moore, “Red Carpet Revenue,”
Los Angeles Times,
February 22, 2005, p. E12.

CHAPTER FIVE: THE SWEET SMELL OF SUCCESS

“A woman enveloped”:
Janet Wallach,
Chanel: Her Style and Her Life
London: Mitchell Beazley, 1999), p. 162.

“[Dior’s perfume]”:
Federico Antoni, “LVMH in 2004: The Challenges of Strategic Integration,” Stanford Graduate School of Business, case SM–123, March, 17, 2004, p. 6.

Prehistoric man:
Diane Ackerman,
A Natural History of the Senses
(New York: Random House, 1990), pp. 56–59.

In Crete:
Ibid., pp. 60–61.

French king Louis XIV:
Ibid., p. 62.

“The industry has”:
Caroline Brothers, “The Precise Smell of Success,”
International Herald Tribune
, October 21–22, 2006, p. 12.

In
2003
:
Miles Socha, “Milking Fashion’s Cash Cows,”
WWD the Magazine,
November 3, 2003, p. 88.

She was born in:
Wallach,
Chanel
, pp. 5–18.