Culinary Vietnam (17 page)

Hue Minced Pork Patties

Thit Heo Nem Xao

2 teaspoons

Chile-Garlic-Oil Table Condiment

; 2 teaspoons commercial chile-garlic paste; or 1 teaspoon dried chile flakes smashed together with 5 cloves garlic

1 cup coarsely chopped raw shrimp

8 ounces ground pork

1/2 cup thinly sliced, and very finely minced lemongrass

2 tablespoons + 1 teaspoon sugar

2 tablespoons + 1 teaspoon fish sauce

1/3 cup water

1 tablespoon shrimp sauce

4 tablespoons vegetable oil

1/4 cup chopped toasted peanuts

1 scallion, thinly sliced into rings

Serves 6 to 8 as an appetizer or 4 to 6 as part of a larger meal

In this dish from central Vietnam, the meat is often cooked loose, and the caramelized salty pieces are mixed with copious amounts of rice; however, at the suggestion of Madam Huy, my chef friend and well-known Hue Imperial cuisine expert, I form the meat into small patties, a more elegant presentation in keeping with the style of the royal court. With the addition of shrimp sauce, this dish is quite strongly flavored, and for Western tastes, it is probably better suited when served as an appetizer or along with other less bold dishes.

1
Mix together the chile-garlic paste, shrimp, pork, lemongrass, 1 teaspoon sugar, and 1 teaspoon fish sauce; form into patties, about 1/3 inch thick and 2 inches in diameter. Mix together the water, shrimp sauce, remaining sugar and fish sauce; set aside.

2
Heat the oil in a large flat-bottomed skillet and brown the patties on both sides. Add the shrimp sauce mixture and cook about 3 to 4 minutes; then turn the patties over and continue cooking until most of the liquid has evaporated and caramelized around the edges of the patties.
NOTE:
You may need to reduce the heat as the liquid evaporates to prevent burning.

3
Remove the patties to a serving plate and garnish with the peanuts and scallion.

In general, Vietnamese cooking is a tantalizing blend of clean, fresh, bright, sweet, and hot flavors. Steaming, stewing, and grilling techniques are more common than frying. Fresh herbs and hot chiles play an important role.

Caramelized and Steamed Pork for Tet

Khau Nhuc

2 tablespoons pork lard or vegetable oil

2-1/2 to 3 pounds boneless pork shoulder roast, cut into 2 or 3 chunks

1/2 cup

Caramel Sauce

1 white onion, peeled and chopped

4 cloves garlic, peeled and minced

2 tablespoons fish sauce

2 teaspoons five-spice powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup brewed green tea or water

Banana leaves

Serves 4 to 5 as a main dish or 6 to 8 as part of a larger meal

On my second trip to Vietnam, I returned to the far north to the mountain village of Sa Pa. My guide friend, Miss Moon (Min Hang Nha), took me to cook with a family there. It was the week before Tet, the lunar New Year celebration, and the man of the house was well known for his special-occasion cooking. He helped me to cook this dish in his kitchen, which is traditionally prepared for the Tet holiday. The stove was a grate made from reinforcement bars on the floor, all fueled by bamboo sticks. This method requires some extended cooking time, but you can shortcut it a bit by finishing the pork in the oven instead of the steamer. Instead of wrapping it in banana leaves, place it in a roasting pan along with 1/2 cup of extra water, seal tightly, and bake for 2-1/2 hours at 350 degrees. His recipe uses dried kale, a local product with a slightly bitter homemade ingredient that I have been unable to find at home. I use some stir-fried or steamed cabbage or kale served on the side instead. If you are using the oven method, you could add the raw greens to the roasting pork for the last 30 minutes to mingle the flavors with the meat.

1
In a heavy skillet or wok, heat the lard or oil until very hot. Sear the pork in the fat until well-browned on all surfaces. Remove the pan from the heat and pour in the Caramel Sauce (beware of hot splatters). When the sauce has calmed down a bit, return the pan to the heat and continue cooking until the Caramel Sauce forms a thick coating on the surface of the meat.

2
Mix the onion, garlic, fish sauce, five-spice powder, salt, and tea together; set aside.

3
Briefly toast the banana leaves directly over the heat to make them flexible. Tear off a few strips to use as a tie and lay out the leaves, 2 layers thick, then place the meat in the center. Pour the seasonings over the meat and make sure they are evenly distributed. Wrap the banana leaves around the meat to make a closed package and secure with banana leaf ties. Place in a steamer and steam on low for 5 hours. Carefully remove a package, open, and check for doneness. The meat should be fork-tender. Cut into bite-size pieces and serve.

Poultry Dishes

Poultry, especially chicken, is a high-end protein in Vietnam. Chicken is more expensive than most seafood and is used for special occasions. A family that can afford chicken is deemed prosperous by many standards. Almost the entire animal is utilized. Other birds, like duck, goose, quail, and a number of smaller species, also figure in the recipes of Vietnam. Most birds in Vietnam are not killed until near the time to cook them, and frozen chicken is almost unheard of, so freshness is very important when choosing poultry for Vietnamese dishes.

“Chicken Street” Lemongrass and Chile Grilled Chicken

Ga Nuong

2 large boneless, skinless chicken breasts or thighs

2 medium stalks lemongrass, crushed and very finely chopped

2 to 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped

2 teaspoons raw or light brown sugar

2 teaspoons light soy sauce

2 teaspoons fish sauce

1 or 2 serrano or jalapeño chiles, stemmed, seeded, and finely minced

1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper

1/2 lime, juiced

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

Serves 4

This recipe re-creates the flavors of Hanoi grilled chicken with a little influence from another spot in Saigon that I was shown by my chef friend Khai. I have used boneless breast or thighs to make the dish a little more elegant; however, the spicy marinade will work fine for all parts of the bird, bone in or not, and I have also used it successfully on a whole bird that I split open on the back side and slow-grilled to perfection. This chicken is also very good when served cold, perfect for a picnic, and the leftovers can be used for a chicken salad or fried rice.