Culinary Vietnam (11 page)

Soups & Noodle Dishes

The Vietnamese consume an amazing quantity of noodles. Many noodles are found in soups, stir-fries, salads, and even crispy fried rolls. The majority of noodles consumed are made from rice or a mixture of rice and tapioca; however, wheat noodles are also used frequently. In Vietnam, fresh noodles are widely available, whether homemade or purchased at the markets or from street vendors. In the West, you can often find fresh noodles at Asian markets, but many times, you will need to resort to dried noodle varieties.

Chicken and Glass Noodle Soup

Mien Ga

1-1/2 tablespoons yellow rock sugar, or 1 tablespoon white refined sugar and 2 teaspoons honey

1 clove garlic, minced

2 tablespoons shallots, minced

3 tablespoons fish sauce or soy sauce (or a combination of the two)

4 quarts chicken broth

1/2 cup tree ear or other dried or fresh mushrooms, sliced in thin strips (about 5 to 6 dried mushrooms, reconstituted by covering with boiling water, soaking for 15 to 20 minutes, draining, and removing the stems) 1 or 2 sliced or julienned red serrano, jalapeño, Fresno, or Thai chiles (optional)

1-1/2 to 1-3/4 pounds cooked chicken meat (the amount that a 2-1/4-pound fryer will yield), hand shredded or cut into bite-size chunks

Giblets from 1 chicken, cooked and finely chopped (optional)

2 scallions, cut into 1/2-inch sections

12 ounces glass noodles (cellophane), soaked in very hot water until just softened, drained, and rinsed in cool water

1/3 cup chopped cilantro or Vietnamese coriander leaves (optional)

Serves 6 as a main dish or more as part of a larger meal

This recipe is relatively simple to make; you can either use already-made or store-bought chicken broth (beware of the saltiness) and leftover precooked chicken, or you can make your own stock (see Chicken for Soup or Broth recipe) using a small chicken, reserving the meat for the soup.

1
In a heavy preheated pot or Dutch oven, add the sugar and caramelize slightly until a light golden brown; add the garlic and shallots, stir for a moment, and then add the fish sauce and broth.

2
Bring the broth to a boil, then add the mushrooms and chiles. Boil for 1 minute and then add the chicken and giblets, if using. When the broth returns to a boil, add the scallions and noodles, and bring to a boil again; remove from the heat, taste for seasoning, add salt or fish sauce as needed, stir in the herbs, and serve.

Beef Noodle Soup

Pho Bo

Broth and Meat

6 pounds beef soup bones

2 pounds trimmed beef—brisket, boneless leg, chuck, round, or sirloin—cut in half

2 white onions

6 cloves garlic

1 (1-1/2-inch) piece ginger, peeled and cut into 3 to 4 slices

8 quarts water

1/4 cup fish sauce

1 tablespoon salt

4 good-sized stalks lemongrass, lightly bruised and cut into 2-inch pieces

8 to 10 whole black peppercorns, lightly toasted

4 tablespoons yellow rock sugar, or 3 tablespoons

Caramel Sauce

2 carrots, peeled and cut into thirds

3 stalks celery, cut into thirds

10 star anise, lightly toasted

8 whole cloves, lightly toasted

1 (3-inch) cinnamon stick (optional)

To Finish

2 pounds flat rice noodles or other rice noodles, cooked in boiling water just until done, strained, and then rinsed in cool water

10 to 12 ounces very thinly sliced beef sirloin, chuck, tenderloin, or brisket

2 to 3 cups fresh bean sprouts

Garnishes

Lime wedges

1 white onion, peeled and very thinly sliced

3 scallions, thinly sliced on the bias

Fresh cilantro, Asian basil, mint, culantro, perilla, Vietnamese coriander,
etc.

Thinly sliced serrano or Thai chiles

Lettuce leaves

Chile sauce

Hoisin sauce

Pickled garlic and chiles

Serves 8

Pho is probably the most recognized and widely discussed Vietnamese dish. Pronounced “fer,” with the “r” barely audible with a slight dip and then rise in the tone, this dish probably owes its roots to the French culinary sensibility and obsession with good-quality stocks as well as the Chinese contribution of noodles and seasonings; however, in the hands of Vietnamese cooks, it is transformed into something with an identity all its own and has practically become the national dish. While Pho Bo (beef pho) is the most common, Pho Ga (chicken pho) is also available. To make that version, you will need a rich chicken stock scented with the same aromatics and cooked chicken meat.

1
Place the beef bones and brisket in a large pot and cover with cold water. Bring the water to a boil and cook for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and immediately drain; then rinse the meat and bones in cool water; drain again. Cut a piece of the brisket into 4 or 5 chunks.

2
Char the onions, garlic, and ginger over a direct flame until fairly blackened and fragrant, about 3 minutes for the garlic, 4 to 5 minutes for the ginger, and 6 to 8 minutes for the onion. Cool to the touch, remove the skins, and discard. Cut the onion and ginger into several pieces.

3
Place the 8 quarts water in a large pot and add the bones, beef, onion, garlic, ginger, fish sauce, salt, lemongrass, peppercorns, rock sugar, carrots, and celery. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook for 1-1/2 hours, occasionally skimming any scum that rises to the surface. Remove the large piece of brisket from the broth and immerse in cold water for 10 minutes to cool and preserve the color; drain and set aside to be thinly sliced and added to the soup when serving. Continue simmering the broth for another 45 minutes. Add the star anise, cloves, and cinnamon, and simmer another 45 minutes. Turn off the heat and allow to cool for 30 minutes. Skim the excess fat that rises to the top and discard. Strain the soup through a fine mesh strainer or cheesecloth and reheat to serve. Taste for seasoning and add more salt if needed. It should taste fairly salty, as the noodles and garnishes have no salt.

4
Reheat the noodles and bean sprouts separately in a pot of boiling water and place a portion in each bowl. Place some of the raw and cooked meat slices on top of the noodles. Ladle about 1-1/2 to 2 cups of nearly boiling broth in each bowl and serve immediately, along with the garnishes.