Crossing the River

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Authors: Amy Ragsdale

BOOK: Crossing the River
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Crossing the River

Copyright 2015 Amy Ragsdale

Seal Press

A Member of the Perseus Books Group

1700 Fourth Street

Berkeley, California

sealpress.com

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form without written permission from the publisher, except by reviewers who may quote brief excerpts in connection with a review.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data is pending.

978-1-58005-587-1

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Cover and interior design by Gopa & Ted2, Inc.

Photos courtesy of the author.

Printed in the United States of America

Distributed by Publishers Group West

For my parents, Jane and Wilmott Ragsdale, who led the way

For my intrepid family,

Peter, Molly, and Skyler

“As you set out for Ithaca, hope the voyage is a long one, full of adventure, full of discovery.”

—C.P. Cavafy

Contents

List of “Characters”

Prologue

P
ART
I: C
RASH
C
OURSE
:
July, August, September

1. The Family of Man

2. Not Too Big. Not Too Small.

3. Flies

4. We Make a Friend: Zeca

5. A Tenuous Foothold

6. “I Hate Brazil”

7. Finding Our Guides

8. Time to Watch and Listen

9. A Gringo Befriended

10. “
Quer Ficar Comigo?

11. The Table Goes Silent, Time for a Break

12. Running the Race

13. On Learning to Be a Man

14. Relax

P
ART
II: H
OME
:
October, November, December

15. A New Start

16. Forró Dancing with Zeca

17. Why Are All the Poor People Black and the Rich People White?

18. My People: The Butcher, the Baker, the Furniture Maker

19. Surfing Through the Presidential Election

20. Hitting the Wall

21. Bands of Ants and Silent Horsemen

22. A Viking Queen Floats Above a Chiffon Sea

23. Compatible Travelers

24. Holidays Unraveling

25. New Year's Eve in Salvador

26. Home

P
ART
III: W
IDENING THE
C
IRCLE
:
January, February

27. The Dividing Line

28. Balance and Joy

29. Walking Tall

30. Surprising Finds

31. Guests in Their House

32. On Maintaining Respect

33. Conflicting Worlds

34. A Long Swim

35. Dark-Skinned Nannies Wheel White-Skinned Babies to the Park

36. Put to the Test

37. Gratitude

P
ART
IV: C
ROSSING THE
R
IVER
:
March, April, May

38. A Five-Day Orgy

39. The Doldrums of March

40. The Sensitive Cross-Cultural Approach

41. The Long Arm of American Ambition

42. Floating Anger

43. More Important Things

44. The Long Stutter of Good-Byes

45. Crossing the River

46. A Quick White Smile in a Dark Face

Epilogue

Postscript

A
PPENDICES

Where Are They Now?

Portuguese Vocabulary

Maps

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