Cooking for Two (27 page)
G
reen peppercorns are soft, underripe peppercorn berries. They’re available packed in oil (in which case they should be drained and rinsed for this dish), packed in water (in which case they should simply be drained), or freeze-dried. Look for firm, whole peppercorns, each berry vibrant green, not dusty brown. Serve these pork chops and their aromatic sauce alongside baked potatoes, an acorn squash purée, or buttered noodles tossed with poppy seeds.
Four 3-ounce boneless pork loin cutlets, each about ½ inch thick ¼ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 small shallot, minced 1 small garlic clove, minced | 1½ teaspoons green peppercorns, lightly crushed with the side of a knife or in a mortar with a pestle ½ cup dry vermouth 2 tablespoons White Worcestershire sauce (see Note) 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, at room temperature |
1.
Season the pork chops with salt and pepper. Heat a large skillet or sauté pan, preferably a nonstick or cast-iron pan, over medium-high heat. Swirl in the oil, then slip the chops into the pan. Cook for 5 minutes, then turn them with tongs or a fork. If the oil begins to smoke, reduce the heat to medium. Add the shallot, garlic, and green peppercorns; continue cooking for 3 minutes, stirring occasionally so the vegetables don’t stick.
2.
Pour in the vermouth and bring the mixture to a boil. Boil for 1 minute, then stir in the White Worcestershire sauce. Simmer for 30 seconds, just to reduce slightly, then swirl in the butter, stirring just until it’s melted and incorporated into the sauce. Serve immediately.
NOTE: White Worcestershire sauce is sometimes labeled “Worcestershire for Chicken.” It’s a lighter blend, made with Sauterne, a sweet wine. Don’t substitute regular Worcestershire sauce, which is too thick and will overpower the peppercorns in this dish. If you can’t find White Worcestershire, substitute 1½ tablespoons dry sherry, ½ teaspoon cider vinegar, ¼ teaspoon sugar, and ¼ teaspoon salt, mixed together before being added to the sauce.
AUTÉED
P
ORK
C
UTLETS
with
M
USTARD
S
AUCE
makes2 servings
W
ith its tangy sour cream and mustard sauce, this easy pork sauté is best served with plain noodles or white rice. If you can’t find thin boneless pork cutlets, ask your butcher to butterfly two 1-inch-thick loin chops for you; press them open along their “hinge” or seam to flatten them out before you sauté them.
Four 3-ounce boneless pork loin cutlets, each about ½ inch thick ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ¼ teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature, or 2 tablespoons olive oil | 1 small shallot, minced ½ teaspoon caraway seeds ¼ cup dry vermouth 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard 2 tablespoons sour cream |
1.
Season the cutlets with pepper and salt and set them aside. Heat a medium skillet or sauté pan over medium heat, then add 1 tablespoon of the butter or the oil. Slip the cutlets into the pan and cook for about 4 minutes, or until lightly browned. Turn and cook for about 3 more minutes, or until cooked through and golden. Transfer to two dinner plates and tent with foil to keep warm.
2.
Return the pan to medium heat and add the remaining 1 tablespoon of the butter or oil. Stir in the shallot and caraway seeds; cook for about 1 minute, or until the shallot has softened. Pour in the vermouth, raise the heat to medium-high, and bring the mixture to a simmer. Cook for just 20 seconds, until the vermouth is slightly reduced, then whisk in the mustard until smooth. Remove the pan from the heat and whisk in the sour cream. Set the pan aside for 30 seconds, to heat the sour cream, then divide this sauce between the cutlets and serve immediately.
MOKED
P
ORK
C
HOPS WITH
A
PPLES
makes2 servings
T
his is an easy dinner, perfect for a chilly night. The apples mellow the sauerkraut considerably, giving the dish a sweet, light taste. Don’t use lip-puckering canned sauerkraut. Buy it fresh in small packages from your butcher, or in the deli case at your market. Or buy it directly from your neighborhood deli, in exactly the amount you need.
One 8-ounce package fresh sauerkraut, drained 2 medium apples (about 4 ounces each), preferably Jonathans or Northern Spys, peeled, cored, and thinly sliced 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard | 1 teaspoon caraway seeds 6 tablespoons apple juice 2 large smoked pork chops, about 8 ounces each (see Note) 4 to 6 small red-skinned potatoes, scrubbed |
1.
Mix the sauerkraut, apples, mustard, and caraway seeds in a large skillet or sauté pan, preferably nonstick or cast-iron. Stir in the apple juice, then place the skillet over medium-high heat and bring the mixture to a simmer.
2.
Nestle the pork chops and potatoes in the pan. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 35 minutes, until the liquid has thickened, the chops are heated through, and the potatoes are tender when pierced with a fork. Serve immediately.
NOTE:
Smoked pork chops are available at deli counters, or in gourmet markets. Pink smoked chops have been doped with nitrates to keep them that color. If you prefer nitrate-free chops, look for ones that are light brown, maybe somewhat gray. The latter are also probably available from your local barbecue restaurant or smokehouse.
Substitute a large pear (about 7 ounces) for the apple.
Substitute apple brandy for the apple juice.
Add 2 tablespoons golden raisins or currants to the sauerkraut mixture with the caraway seeds.
Substitute a medium turnip or rutabaga (about 6 ounces), cut into quarters, for the potatoes; nestle these into the sauerkraut mixture with the chops.
VEN
-B
ARBECUED
R
IBS
makes1 rack of baby back ribs
T
he trick to oven-barbecuing ribs is to roast them in a low-heat oven for a very long time. First, coat the ribs with the dry spice rub, then let them marinate in the refrigerator; you can even rub them the night before and fix them the next day. Once they’re in the oven, be patient—wait until the meat is falling off the bone but still juicy, not until it has dried out. Serve these ribs with your favorite barbecue sauce on the side.
2 teaspoons packed light brown sugar 2 teaspoons chili powder 2 teaspoons mild paprika 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon dry mustard ½ teaspoon ground cumin | ½ teaspoon dried thyme (do not use fresh) ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper One 2-pound rack of baby back pork ribs (12 to 14 bones; see Note) |
1.
Mix the brown sugar, chili powder, paprika, salt, dry mustard, cumin, thyme, and pepper in a small bowl until well combined. Pat this mixture onto the ribs, taking care to massage it gently into the meat. Wrap the ribs in foil or plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to 24 hours.
2.
Position the rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 275°F. Take the ribs out of the refrigerator and let them return to room temperature.
3.
Place the ribs meat side down on the baking rack set in a broiler pan, or on a wire rack set on a large, lipped baking sheet. Bake for 30 minutes, then turn and continue baking for 1 ½ hours, or until the meat has pulled back from the bones and is tender between them. If
the meat is still not fork-tender, cook for up to 30 more minutes. Serve with your favorite barbecue sauce as a dipping sauce.
NOTE:
Some baby back ribs have a thin, tough membrane on the bone side of the rack. Peel off this paper-like covering before rubbing the ribs with the spice mixture. Or ask your butcher to peel it off for you.
PICE
-R
UBBED
P
ORK
T
ENDERLOIN WITH
C
HILE
B
EANS
makes2 servings
H
ere, a lean pork tenderloin is marinated in southwestern spices and broiled, then served alongside spicy beans. The only thing else you need? Lemon sorbet doused with vodka for dessert.
3 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce 2 teaspoons liquid smoke, optional 1 teaspoon ground cumin ¼ teaspoon salt One ¾-pound pork tenderloin, trimmed 1 ancho chile (see page 8), halved and seeded 1 large ear of corn 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, at room temperature 1 small onion, chopped ¼ cup chopped dried apple | One 15-ounce can mixed beans, or red kidney beans, drained and rinsed 1 large Italian plum tomato, chopped 3 tablespoons chopped fresh chives; or 1 medium scallion, green part only, minced One 14½-ounce can chicken stock (regular, low-fat, or nonfat, but preferably low-sodium) ¼ teaspoon salt, or to taste ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper |
1.
Mix the olive oil, Worcestershire sauce, liquid smoke (if using), cumin, and salt in a resealable plastic bag large enough to hold the meat until a thin paste forms. Add the pork tenderloin, seal, and shake to coat the pork with the paste. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours but for no more than 12 hours, shaking the bag once in a while to recoat the tenderloin in the spice mixture. Alternatively, place the tenderloin in a small shallow baking dish, pour the spice mixture over, then turn to coat; cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate as directed, turning the tenderloin in the marinade at least twice.
