Cooked: A Natural History of Transformation (64 page)

Freud, Sigmund.
Civilization and
Its Discontents.
New York: W. W. Norton, 1962. See his “conjecture”
on the control of fire in the note on pp. 42–43.

Goudsblom, Johan.
Fire and
Civilization.
London: Allen Lane, 1992.

Harris, Marvin.
The Sacred Cow and
the Abominable Pig: Riddles of Food and Culture.
New York: Touchstone,
1985.

Kass, Leon.
The Hungry Soul:
Eating and the Perfecting of Our Nature.
New York: Free Press, 1994. See
especially his accounts of sacrifice, cannibalism, and the kosher laws.

Lamb, Charles.
A Dissertation Upon
Roast Pig & Other Essays.
London: Penguin Books, 2011. Also available
on-line at:
http://www.angelfire.com/nv/mf/elia1/pig.htm
.

Lévi-Strauss, Claude.
The Origins
of Table Manners.
New York: Harper & Row, 1978. See especially the chapter
“A Short Treatise on Culinary Anthropology.”

Lieber, David L.
Etz Hayim: Torah
and Commentary.
New York: The Rabbinical Assembly/United Synagogue of
Conservative Judaism, 2001. See the essay on sacrifice in the Old Testament, by Gordon
Tucker.

Montanari, Massimo.
Food Is
Culture.
New York: Columbia University Press, 2006.

Plato.
The Phaedrus, Lysis and
Protagoras of Plato: A New and Literal Translation
by J. Wright. London:
Macmillan, 1900.

Pyne, Stephen J.
Fire: A Brief
History.
Seattle: University of Washington, 2001.

Raggio, Olga. “The Myth of
Prometheus: Its Survival and Metamorphoses up to the Eighteenth Century.”
Journal of the Warburg and Courtauld Institutes,
Vol. 21, No. 1/2
(January–June, 1958).

Segal, Charles. “The Raw and the
Cooked in Greek Literature: Structure, Values, Metaphor.”
Classical
Journal
(April–May, 1974): 289–308.

Allport, Susan.
The Primal Feast:
Food, Sex, Foraging, and Love.
New York: Harmony, 2000.

Atalay, Sonya. “Domesticating
Clay: The Role of Clay Balls, Mini Balls and Geometric Objects in Daily Life at
Çatalhöyük” in Ian Holder, ed.,
Changing Materialities at Çatalhöyük.
Cambridge: McDonald Institute for Archaeological Research, 2005.

———, and Christine A. Hastorf.
“Food, Meals, and Daily Activities: Food Habitus at Neolithic Çatalhöyük.”
American Antiquity,
Vol. 71, No. 2 (April 2006): 283–319. Published by the
Society for American Archaeology.

Fernández-Armesto, Felipe.
Near a
Thousand Tables: A History of Food.
New York: Free Press, 2002.

Haaland, Randi. “Porridge and
Pot, Bread and Oven: Food Ways and Symbolism in Africa and the Near East from the
Neolithic to the Present.”
Cambridge Archaeological Journal
17, 2:
165–82.

Jones, Martin.
Feast: Why Humans
Share Food.
Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2007.

Kaufmann, Jean-Claude.
The Meaning
of Cooking.
Cambridge: Polity, 2010.

Lévi-Strauss, Claude.
The Origin
of Table Manners.
New York: Harper & Row, 1978. The discussion of boiling
versus roasting is in the chapter “A Short Treatise on Culinary
Anthropology.”

Rumohr, C. Fr. v., and Barbara
Yeomans.
The Essence of Cookery (Geist Der Kochkunst).
London: Prospect,
1993.

Sutton, David, and Michael Hernandez.
“Voices in the Kitchen: Cooking Tools as Inalienable Possessions.”
Oral
History,
Vol. 35, No. 2 (Autumn 207): 67–76.

Symons, Michael.
A History of
Cooks and Cooking.
Urbana, IL: University of Illinois, 2000.

Tannahill, Reay.
Food in
History.
New York: Stein and Day, 1973.

Welfeld, Irving. “You Shall Not
Boil a Kid in Its Mother’s Milk: Beyond Exodus 23:19.”
Jewish Bible
Quarterly,
Vol. 32, No. 2, 2004.

Clark, Anna. “The Foodie
Indictment of Feminism” on
Salon,
May 26, 2010.
http://www.salon.com/2010/05/26/foodies_and_feminism
/.

Cognard-Black, Jennifer. “The
Feminist Food Revolution.”
Ms. Magazine,
Summer 2010, Vol. xx, No. 3.

De Beauvoir, Simone.
The Second
Sex.
New York: Vintage, 2011.

Flammang, Janet A.
The Taste for
Civilization: Food, Politics, and Civil Society.
Urbana, IL: University of
Illinois, 2009.

Friedan, Betty.
The Feminine
Mystique.
New York: W. W. Norton, 1963.

Gussow, Joan Dye. “Why
Cook?”
Journal of Gastronomy
7 (1), Winter/Spring, 1993, 79–88.

———. “Women, Food and Power
Revisited.” A speech to the South Carolina Nutrition Council, February, 26,
1993.

Hayes, Shannon.
Radical
Homemakers: Reclaiming Domesticity from a Consumer Culture.
Richmondville, NY:
Left to Write Press, 2010.

Hochschild, Arlie Russell.
The
Time Bind: When Work Becomes Home & Home Becomes Work.
New York:
Metropolitan Books, 1997.

———, and Anne Machung.
The Second
Shift.
New York: Penguin Books, 2003.

Java, Jennifer, and Carol M. Devine.
“Time Scarcity and Food Choices: An Overview.”
Appetite
47 (2006):
196–204.

Larson, Nicole I., et al. “Food
Preparation by Young Adults Is Associated with Better Diet Quality.”
Journal
of the American Dietetic Association.
Vol. 106, No. 12, December 2006.

Neuhaus, Jessamyn. “The Way to a
Man’s Heart: Gender Roles, Domestic Ideology, and Cookbooks in the 1950s.”
Journal of Social History,
Spring 1999.

Pollan, Michael. “Out of the
Kitchen, Onto the Couch.”
New York Times Magazine,
August 2, 2009.

Shapiro, Laura.
Perfection Salad:
Women and Cooking at the Turn of the Century.
New York: Modern Library,
2001.

———.
Something from the Oven:
Reinventing Dinner in 1950’s America.
New York: Viking, 2004.

See the Web site of NPD, Harry
Balzer’s market research firm:
https://www.npd.com/wps/portal/npd/us/industryexpertise/food
. See also the U.S.
Bureau of Labor Statistics “American Time Use Survey”:
http://www.bls.gov/tus
/.

Cutler, David, et al. “Why Have
Americans Become More Obese?”
Journal of Economic Perspectives.
Vol. 17,
No. 3 Summer (2003): 93–118. Cutler attributes part of the increase in obesity to a
decrease in the time spent preparing food.

Gussow, Joan Dye. “Does Cooking
Pay?”
Journal of Nutrition Education
20,5 (1988): 221–26.

Haines, P. S., et al. “Eating
Patterns and Energy and Nutrient Intakes of US Woman.”
Journal of the American
Dietetic Association
92, 6 (1992): 698–704, 707.

Beauchamp, Gary K. “Sensory and
Receptor Responses to Umami: An Overview of Pioneering Work.”
American Journal
of Clinical Nutrition
90 (suppl) (2009): 723S–27S.

Block, E. “The Chemistry of
Garlic and Onions.”
Scientific American
252 (1985): 114–19.

Blumenthal, Heston, et al.
Dashi
and Umami: The Heart of Japanese Cuisine.
Tokyo: Kodansha International,
2009.

Chaudhari, Nirupa, et al. “Taste
Receptors for Umami: The Case for Multiple Receptors.”
American Journal of
Clinical Nutrition
90, 3 (2009): 738S–42S.

Gladwell, Malcolm. “The Ketchup
Conundrum.”
New Yorker,
September 6, 2004.

Griffiths, Gareth. “Onions—a
Global Benefit to Health.”
Phytotherapy Research
16 (2002): 603–15.

Kurlansky, Mark.
Salt: A World
History.
New York: Penguin Books, 2003.

Kurobayashi, Yoshiko, et al.
“Flavor Enhancement of Chicken Broth from Boiled Celery Constituents.”
Journal of Agriculture and Food Chemistry,
56 (2008): 512–16.

McGee, Harold.
On Food and
Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen.
New York: Scribner, 2004.

Rivlin, Richard S. “Historical
Perspective on the Use of Garlic” in Recent Advances in the Nutritional Effects
Associated with the Use of Garlic as a Supplement, proceedings of a conference published
as a supplement to
The Journal of Nutrition,
2009.

Rogers, Judy.
The Zuni Café
Cookbook.
New York: W. W. Norton, 2002. Be sure to read her brilliant short
essay on “salting early,” pp. 35–38.

Rozin, Elisabeth.
Ethnic Cuisine:
How to Create the Authentic Flavors of 30 International Cuisines.
New York:
Penguin Books, 1992.

———.
The Universal Kitchen.
New York: Viking, 1996.

Sherman, Paul W., and Jennifer
Billing. “Darwinian Gastronomy: Why We Use Spices.”
BioScience,
Vol. 49, No. 6 (June 1999): 453–63.

Vitali, Benedetta.
Soffritto:
Tradition and Innovation in Tuscan Cooking.
Berkeley: Ten Speed Press, 2004.
Benedetta was one of Samin’s teachers in Italy.

On the Element of Water

Bachelard, Gaston.
Water and
Dreams: An Essay on the Imagination of Matter.
Dallas: Pegasus Foundation,
1983.

Belasco, Warren J.
Appetite for
Change: How the Counterculture Took on the Food Industry.
Ithaca, NY: Cornell
University, 2006. Good on the symbolism of white and brown bread in the 1960s.

Braudel, Fernand.
The Structures of
Everyday Life: Civilization and Capitalism 15th–18th Century.
Vol. 1. New York:
Harper & Row. 1981. See part 2, “Daily Bread.”

David, Elizabeth.
English Bread
and Yeasty Cookery.
Newtown, MA: Biscuit Books, 1994. Very good on the history
of milling in England.

Drummond, J.G., and Anne Wilbraham.
The Englishman’s Food: A History of Five Centuries of English Diet.
London: Jonathan Cape, 1939.

Eisenberg, Evan.
The Ecology of
Eden: An Inquiry into the Dream of Paradise and a New Vision of Our Role in
Nature.
New York: Vintage, 1999. The first few chapters offer a wonderful
account of the coevolution of grasses and humankind.

Graham, Sylvester.
Treatise on
Bread and Bread-Making.
Boston: Light & Stearns, 1837. In case you thought
nutritional fads were something new in America.

Jacob, H.E., and Peter Reinhart.
Six Thousand Years of Bread.
New York: Skyhorse Publishing, 2007.

Kahn, E.J. “The Staffs of Life:
Part III, Fiat Panis,”
New Yorker,
December 17, 1984. This notorious
series on grains is often mocked as a symbol of the “old”
New
Yorker
at its most irrelevant—but I found it fascinating.

Kaplan, Steven Laurence.
Good
Bread Is Back: A Contemporary History of French Bread, the Way It Is Made, and the
People Who Make It.
Durham, NC: Duke University, 2006. Valuable for his account
of the rise of white bread and the revival of sourdoughs.

Mann, Charles C. 1493:
Uncovering
the New World Columbus Created.
New York: Knopf, 2011. In chapter 8,
“Crazy Soup,? Mann tells the story of how the conquistadors brought wheat
to the New World, p. 281.

Manning, Richard.
Against the
Grain: How Agriculture Has Hijacked Civilization.
New York: North Point Press,
2004.

———.
Grassland: The History,
Biology, and Promise of the American Prairie.
New York: Penguin Books, 1997.
Manning recounts how the American prairie was transformed from grasslands to wheat
fields.

Marchant, John, et al.
Bread: A
Slice of History.
Charleston, SC: History Press, 2009.

McGee, Harold.
On Food and
Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen.
New York: Scribner, 2004. See his
chapter on bread history and technique.

Rubel, William.
Bread: A Global
History.
London: Reaktion Books, 2011.

Standage, Tom.
An Edible History
of Humanity.
New York: Walker & Co., 2009.

Storck, John, and Walter Dorwin
Teague.
Flour for Man’s Bread: A History of Milling.
Minneapolis:
University of Minnesota, 1952.

Tudge, Colin.
So Shall We Reap:
What’s Gone Wrong with the World’s Food—and How to Fix It.
London:
Penguin Books, 2003. A good account of wheat’s evolution.

Beard, James.
Beard on Bread.
New York: Knopf. 1974.

Clayton, Bernard.
The Breads of
France.
Berkeley: Ten Speed Press, 2004.

Lahey, Jim.
My Bread: The
Revolutionary No-Work, No-Knead Method.
New York: W. W. Norton, 2009.

Leader, Daniel, and Judith Blahnik.
Bread Alone: Bold Fresh Loaves from Your Own Hand.
New York: Morrow,
1993.

Oppenheimer, Todd. “Breaking
Bread.” A profile of Chad Robertson.
San Francisco Magazine,
November
2010.

Orton, Mildred Ellen.
Cooking with
Whole Grains.
Foreword by Deborah Madison. New York: Farrar, Straus and Giroux,
2010.

Reinhart, Peter.
The Bread
Baker’s Apprentice: Mastering the Art of Extraordinary Bread.
Berkeley:
Ten Speed Press, 2001.

———.
Whole Grain Breads: New
Techniques, Extraordinary Flavors.
Berkeley: Ten Speed Press, 2007. Reinhart
pioneered (or revived) the soaking of whole grains before fermenting them.

Robertson, Chad.
Tartine
Bread.
San Francisco: Chronicle Books, 2010. Terrific book that manages to
instruct and delight in equal measure.