Chop Suey : A Cultural History of Chinese Food in the United States (39 page)

   in street markets,
23
–24,
32

cattle,
80

   
See also
beef

Central Pacific Railroad,
137

cha
(tea),
92

   
See also
tea

champagne,
5

Chan, Charlie,
205

Chang, Cecilia,
221

Chao, Buwei Yang,
217
–19

Chaozhou dishes,
244

Chapin, Dwight,
230
–34

char siu bau
(steamed bread),
130

cheeses:

   in Chinese cuisine,
46
,
86

   in western cuisine,
44
,
45

   
See also
dairy products

chefs, Chinese:

   after Communist takeover,
227

   as culinary artists,
65
–66,
241

   immigration laws affecting,
214
,
216
,
223

   rulebooks for imperial,
92
–93

   of Shang Dynasty,
74
–75,
85
–86

   for Yuan Mei,
65
–66

Chen Zuguan,
13
–14

cherry bounce,
46

Chiang Kai-shek,
228
,
242

Chicago,
171
,
172
,
173
,
198
,
216
,
221

Chicago Inter-Ocean,
185

Chicago Tribune:

   food stories,
105
,
106
,
172
,
185
,
241

   news stories,
171
,
183
,
184

chicken dishes:

   beggar’s,
221

   “General Tso’s Chicken,”
241
–43,
251

   Kung Pao,
251

chickens:

   domestication of,
81

   on sailing vessels,
2

chili peppers,
83
,
85

The China (restaurant),
175

China:

   antiquity of,
16

   climate,
70

   geography,
67
–70

   lexical origins of name,
57
–58

   as “Middle Kingdom,”
16
–19,
29
,
58

   natural diversity in,
70
–71,
81

   
See also
Chinese cuisine; Chinese history

China Clipper (restaurant),
209
–10

The China Mission
(Dean),
61
–62

China Proper,
17
,
68
,
99
–100

China root,
134

China Sea,
69

Chinatowns:

   during anti-Chinese movement,
142

   during 1930s and 1940s,
208

   revitalization of,
243
–44

   
See also
New York City Chinatown; San Francisco Chinatown

Chinese-American
(newspaper),
153

Chinese Americans:

   in American West,
112
–14,
117
,
134
–43

   as cooks and chefs,
133
–34,
135
,
139
,
149

   culinary traditions maintained by,
117
–19,
129
,
134
–35,
137
–38,
139
,
151

   on East coast,
169
–71

   farming by,
121
–23,
135
,
137
,
138
,
151
,
170
,
171
,
207

   fishing by,
119
–20,
121

   in Hawaii,
206
–7

   as laundrymen,
107
,
126
,
135
,
138
,
159
,
169
,
171
,
207

   marginalization of,
205
–6

   as merchants,
104
,
112
,
113
,
118
–19,
135
,
137
–38,
149
,
151
,
171
,
206
,
207

   in Midwest,
171
–72

   as miners,
108
–9,
112
–13,
135

   in New York.
See
New York City

   as peddlers,
107
,
120
–21,
123
,
129
,
149

   racism toward.
See
racism

   as railroad laborers,
137
–39

   as restaurateurs.
See
Chinese restaurants in America

   as sailors,
148
,
149

   in San Francisco.
See
San Francisco

   as servants,
133
,
135
,
171

   
See also
Chinese food in America; Chinese restaurants in America

Chinese cabbage,
71
,
79
,
99
,
122

Chinese Cookery in the Home Kitchen
(Nolton),
185

Chinese cuisine:

   adventurousness in,
71
,
75
,
81
,
153
,
155
,
199
,
249
–50

   art of balance in,
67
,
78
,
85

   art of cookery in,
67
,
73
,
74
,
84

   banquet tradition,
46
,
47
–48,
92
–93,
218
,
227
,
228
,
231
,
235
,
238

   building blocks of,
67
,
79
,
92
,
98

   climate as influence on,
67
,
70

   cookbooks describing,
66
–67,
217
–19

   cooking methods,
73
,
76
,
83
–87,
98
,
101
,
154

   cookware,
73
–75,
75
,
84
,
87
,
97
,
98

   decline of, under Mao,
227
–28

   delicacies of,
27
,
28
,
58
,
93
–94,
98

   domesticated plants and animals in,
71
,
72
,
80
,
81

   dough cookery,
88
–91

   family-style meals,
94
,
129
,
218
,
247

   
fan-cai
dichotomy in,
79
–80,
94
,
98
,
101
,
134
–35

   fats and oils,
85
–86,
92

   fermented drinks,
75
,
76
,
91

   fermented foods,
86
–87,
91
,
100

   fish and shellfish,
67
,
72
,
81
–82,
84
–85,
86

   flavorings in,
85
–86,
98

   food as medicine,
77
–78,
98

   food as ritual,
77
,
92
–93

   food cut into small pieces,
23
,
51
,
84
,
129
,
158
–59

   fruits,
71
,
82
–83

   geography as influence on,
67
–70

   grains,
71
,
78
–79,
83
–84,
87
–89,
91
,
99

   meats,
14
,
23
–24,
48
,
80
–81,
84
–85,
86

   noodles,
76
,
88
,
90
–91,
95
,
98

   nuts,
71
,
83

   
regional distinctions in,
99
–102,
218

   restaurant culture in,
34
–35,
94
–97,
98
,
100
–101

   revolutions in,
87
–91

   rice,
57
,
71
,
72
,
76
,
78
–79,
92

   spices,
67
,
83
,
85
–87,
98
,
219

   tableware,
33
,
51
,
67
,
94
,
104
,
129

   tea,
92
,
95
,
96
–97

   texture in,
86
,
94
,
241

   vegetables in,
71
,
79
–80,
83
–84,
86

   
See also
Chinese food in America

Chinese culture:

   banquet etiquette,
46
,
47
–48,
92
–93,
235
,
238

   chopstick etiquette,
46
,
48
,
51
,
63

   early reference works on,
22
–
24
,
33
–35,
56
–59,
62
–63

   gender separation in,
44
,
93
,
94
,
97

   social hierarchies in,
93

   
See also
Chinese cuisine; Imperial China

Chinese Exclusion Act,
142
,
161
,
205
,
206
,
216
–17

Chinese food in America:

   Americanization of,
191
–92

   in arts and entertainment,
168
,
187
–88,
191
,
195
–98,
200
–204,
214

   as cheap and filling,
159
,
192
,
203
,
211
,
251

   cookbooks for,
185
,
186
,
217
–19,
222
,
248

   on grocery shelves,
91
,
192
–94,
240
,
250

   home cooking of,
185
–87,
192
–94

   influence of Nixon’s visit on,
240
–43

   Jewish embrace of,
198
–205

   post-World War II revitalization of,
217
–24

   stagnation in,
210
–15,
216
,
247

   
See also
Chinese restaurants in America; chop suey; recipes

Chinese history:

   Beijing Summer Olympics (2008),
248
–50

   Boxer Rebellion,
165
–66

   Communist takeover,
217
,
220
,
223
,
225

   Cultural Revolution,
226
,
227
,
229
–30

   early diplomacy with U.S.,
38
–50,
52
,
53

   free market reforms,
246

   Han Dynasty.
See
Han Dynasty

   Japanese invasion (1937),
205
,
221

   Korean War,
225

   Li Hongzhang’s U.S. visit,
161
–64,
240

   Ming Dynasty,
17
–18,
20
,
98

   Nixon and Kissinger visits,
224
–39

   Opium War,
36
–37,
39
,
40
,
53

   prehistoric,
16
,
71
,
81

   Qin Dynasty,
57
,
78

   Qing Dynasty.
See
Qing Dynasty

   Shang Dynasty,
73
–75,
75
,
85
,
86

   6000–3000 BCE,
71

   Song Dynasty,
84
,
85
,
86
,
94
–95

   and Soviet Union,
225

   Tang Dynasty,
85
,
89
,
90

   Tiananmen Square massacre,
247

   Treaty of Nanking,
37
,
39

   
Treaty of Wang Xia,
47
,
49
,
50
,
52

   Xia Dynasty,
72
–73

   Yuan Dynasty,
92
,
99

   Zhang Dynasty,
80

   Zhou Dynasty,
75
–76,
80
,
81
,
84
,
86
,
92

   
See also
Emperors; Imperial China

Chinese Home Cooking
(Sia),
207

The Chinese in America
(Gibson),
127

Chinese-Japanese Cook Book
(Bossé),
186

Chinese language:

   pidgin,
9
–10

   teaching to barbarians,
29

   
See also
Cantonese language; Mandarin language

“Chinese Museum,”
50

Chinese New Year,
77
,
82

Chinese Repository,
33
,
34
,
55
,
58
,
59
–60,
126

Chinese Restaurant News,
250
–51

Chinese restaurants in America:

   adapting to American tastes,
111
–12,
132
–33,
138
,
139
,
166
,
167
,
223
,
243
,
245
–46,
251

   affordability,
110
–11,
138
,
155
,
159
,
168
,
211
,
215