Calls Across the Pacific (21 page)

When they reached the Yuanmingyuan Garden, the European-style Imperial Palace, built in 1709, Nina stopped to admire the stone arch of the palace's wreckage. “Look at this graceful structure. I like this part best.”

“Don't you think these ruins are evidence of the historical crimes of the Western imperialist invaders?” asked Rei.

“Yes, I agree, Nina said. “But, do you remember in June, 1966, students from the middle school affiliated with Qinghua University gathering here? It was here that they took a serious oath to protect Mao's red regime. That started the Red Guards' movement.”

“Yes, they were patriots with hatred against Western imperialists. This was why they thought these ruins were the shame of Red China. In terms of patriotism, they weren't wrong,” Rei responded.

“In my point of view, Mao used the Red Guards to defeat his political rivals solely to ensure his grip on absolute power.”

“Well, I am not sure I totally agree with you about that.” Rei pointed at the stone arch. “In 1860, the Anglo-French Allied Armies occupied the area. You know they set fire to the Garden. Forty years later, the Eight-Power Allied Forces destroyed the Garden completely. Maybe eating too much beef in America has made you forget these facts,” he said with a chuckle. “I have mixed feelings whenever I visit here.”

“Don't you mean Eight-Nation Alliance?” said Nina. “I hope someday you can read history from a different source and angle; you may find something opposite to what you were taught to believe.” Sitting down on a stone, Nina wiped the sweat on her face. “For the damages to Yuanmingyuan Garden, we can put the blame on the imperialist powers. But we also have many heritage sites that have been damaged by our generation.” She reminded Rei that the Red Guards had burned the cemetery of Emperor Yan built in 967 in Hunan Province
. In Shanxi Province, they had desecrated the tomb of Emperor Yao, which though originally built between 713 to 741, had subsequently been reconstructed during different dynasties. Other Red Guards had also vandalized Confucius's tomb, built in 1331, and crushed his statue in the temple at Shandong. She looked at Rei. “Rampant vandalism took place all across China during the Cultural Revolution. Should we blame the imperialists?”

“I need to think about that,” Reid nodded. “Tell me why you think North America is better than China.”

“The people in North America have a better life because of the democratic system,” Nina said. “I think their political system is a key factor.”

“I will admit there are big gaps in our legal system,” Reid responded. “If we can improve it, maybe fewer people will go to jail because of their political beliefs. All in all, expressing one's opinion or beliefs shouldn't be considered a criminal act.”

Nina was glad that Rei's concerns lay with how to amend current laws. She felt certain that something constructive would come out of the destructive storms of the Cultural Revolution. At the moment, she sat back and enjoyed the gentle rays of the sunset shining golden on the ruins of Yuanmingyuan Garden, while the cool breeze from the fields caressed her skin.

Some day, will the term, “political crime,” finally disappear from Chinese criminal legal system?
Nina wondered.

21.
FROM SANDRA'S CHIPS TO CHICKEN SOUP

AS THEY HEADED BACK
to the university, Nina asked, “How about if I take you to a supper?”

“Why not?” Rei said. “There's an American fast-food diner near the campus. It opened a couple of months ago.”

Nina smiled. “That sounds interesting. Let's go, then. What do they serve?”

“French fries and chicken drumsticks.”

Rei led the way along a laneway paved in flagstone to an older building. An entrance with a red banner that announced “Sandra's Chips.” “Here it is,” Rei said.

Nina followed him inside to the counter. The small room was filled with square, black tables and benches. On each table was a bamboo container with chopsticks. Most of the customers looked like students. The aroma told Nina it was authentic American fast food.

She joined Rei at the counter and ordered. On an unoccupied table, they laid their plates of fries and drumsticks and sat down. Nina picked up a French fry with her fingers and dipped it into the tiny ketchup cup.
“Hmmm, these are good,” she said, licking her fingers.
A plastic fork in his hand, Rei caught three fries but had trouble dipping them in ketchup. “I'll follow your wild American table manners,” he said, pinching a few fries together with his fingers to dip in the ketchup.

“Americans have good table manners when they eat fancy dinners. When they eat fast food they just use their fingers,” Nina said, grinning. “But note, please, making noise when you chew food is considered bad table manners to Americans, even though to us it means the food is delicious.”

“Really? So Americans have opposite notions of eating etiquette?”

“Oh, yes,” Nina said, nodding. She remembered that she had seldom used her fingers to pinch food from bowls since she had been instructed not to do so as a little girl.
My habits have changed
. She picked up a drumstick in her hand.
I even enjoy iced water instead of warm water.

“Excuse me,” a woman said in Chinese with a strong American accent when she placed a glass on the table. “My server said you'd asked for iced water. You're the first customer I've had who asked for that.”

“Thanks so much,” said Nina, smiling at the blonde woman in a Chinese outfit. “You must be the owner,” she said, admiring the woman's silk blouse with mandarin collar and pants with floral embroidery on the hems. Then, in English, she added, “You can speak English if you wish.”

“I only own a half,” the blonde grinned. When she noticed the puzzled look on Nina's face, she continued in English. “My husband owns the other half. By the way, where did you learn to speak English so well?”

“In America.” Nina smiled. “It's amazing to eat American fast food in Beijing. Your restaurant must be the first one here in the city?”

“Maybe. If we do well, some day we might even be able to buy a license to open a Kentucky Fried Chicken.”

“Interesting. Where are you from?”

“Maine,” the owner answered. “Have you been there?”

“I lived there for years. I even graduated from a university there.”

“It's a small world! I'm Sandra.”

“I'm Nina. Nice to meet you.”

“You, too.” At the moment, Sandra heard one of the servers call out to her. “I've got to go. I hope to see you again.” She turned and walked hurriedly to the kitchen.

Rei sipped from a glass of soft drink. “I knew every word you said, but I didn't completely understand what you were saying.”

“You need to listen to English more often, instead of only reading it.” Nina tapped the table lightly with her fingers. “She's from Maine. You know I lived there for many years.”

“Come here again. You can chat with her again,” Rei said. “You know, students who are majoring in English come here often so they can practise English with the owners. Also, they get to have a taste of American culture.”

“Do you enjoy eating the food here?”

“It's not too bad, but it's more expensive than our canteen. Based on the policy, students who've worked for over five years before going to university get paid, so I do get a decent salary. But I need to save for round-trip tickets, so I can see Ahua at least twice a year.” Rei stood up.

“You get a salary for studying? Well, that's great,” said Nina. “And I am glad you get some time to see your wife too.” They disposed of their empty plates and cups, and left Sandra's Chips, feeling satisfied and ready for the next day's research and studies.

When she got back to her room, Nina wrote a brief letter to Roger.

June 27, 1978

My dear Roger,

Did you receive the letter I sent from Guangzhou?

I'm in Peking University now and staying in a girls' dorm room. I've visited a few historic spots. They are fantastic. And I've met some interesting people and recorded some interviews for my book. The research is going well.

Tonight, I had dinner at an American fast food restaurant near the university called Sandra's Chips. It's run by an American couple. What a surprise! Most customers are university students. I'm going to go there again. Can you believe it? I had French fries!

I'll send you a postcard after I get to Inner Mongolia even though I'll probably be back in Yarmouth before it reaches you.

Take care of yourself.

Love,

Nina

Then she sent a note to Liya, telling her about her conversation with Rei's classmate from Hohhot. She explained that Jing would help them meet with a few people in Inner Mongolia so that Nina could record their stories. She let Liya know where she was staying on campus, and that she looked forward to seeing her soon.

The following day, she walked to Sandra's Chips again hoping that she would be able to chat with some students there. As she walked along the flagstones, she thought of the scholar exams that had taken place in Beijing, the ancient capital, over several dynasties. Ambitious, young, educated men from all over China had come and gone along these once cobblestoned streets, anxious figures expecting to pass their imperial exams and earn an academic certificate granted by the Emperor. A person with that certificate would be appointed a civil service officer. Most educated people had spent all their youth preparing for this annual event. She recalled an ancient story about a man named Fan Jin who had failed the exams several years in a row. When he had finally passed and received his certificate, he suffered a nervous breakdown.

She was lost in the thought of the sad tale of Fan Jin when a young man appeared beside her. “Hello, are you going to the restaurant?”

Confused, she asked, “Yes, how did you know?”

The young man explained. “Yesterday, I saw you speaking to the American owner. I go there often.”

Relieved that she wasn't actually being watched or followed by any plainclothes policeman, Nina smiled and asked, “Why?”

“I'm majoring in English. This small diner is a real window to the outside. Sometimes, students can discuss certain topics without fear of being reported. In addition, some of us like to practise speaking in English there. We call this place our ‘English Corner.'”

Nina was curious. “What do you talk about?”

“Everything. Freedom, love, money, success, passion, and education. You name it, and it's open for discussion.”

When they reached the restaurant, the student said, “Please, go ahead.” He stopped. “I'm going to the bookstore now. But you may run into Yueming here. She's a top student.”

After she bought some potato salad, Nina joined two young women at a table. It happened that one of them was, indeed, Yueming, from Daxing County near Beijing. She had been accepted in to the university by earning high scores on the entrance exams.

“Did you start to learn English at high school?” asked Nina, as she looked at shiny-eyed Yueming.

“I didn't learn much in high school. I learned it from my former English teacher at elementary school,” Yueming said. Noticing the puzzled expression on Nina's face, she explained. “In 1973, a fifteen-year-old student, Zhang Yuqin failed an English test, but her words, ‘without learning the a, b, c, I still can be a successor…'” Yueming paused, and then added, “She meant a successor to Mao's revolutionary cause.” This became a catchphrase carried in newspapers everywhere in China and that school was then heralded as an example of revolutionary re-education. This was further compounded when another student, Huang Shuai, sent a letter to the
Beijing Daily
to complain about a teacher who had punished her, and this led to the criticism of the school system and also led to the demand for revisionist education. As a result, all teachers, especially teachers of English, were criticized by their students formally or informally all across China.” Yueming shook her head, and her bobbed hair trembled as if those unpleasant moments had returned. “Of course, English was no longer taught, among many other topics. And, indeed, no students dared express the desire to learn English, but I loved it. I didn't want to give up. So I begged my teacher to tutor me in secret. That enabled me to be accepted at Peking University four years later. My former teacher was just great.” Yueming's admiration for her teacher was so contagious that when she suggested visiting her teacher a few days after her last exam, Nina did not hesitate to join her on the trip to Daxing County.

Nina and Yueming took a bus to the small village where Yueming's family lived. They welcomed them with open arms and a small feast for dinner. The next afternoon, they decided to visit Yueming's former elementary school. They waded through the bushes and pushed their way through the taller sorghum plants. Yueming said, “I walked this route to school daily for six years before going to university. When Teacher Gao started tutoring me, I would meet with her every Sunday morning.

“Did she live at the school?”

“Yes. Only a few single teachers lived in the school dormitory. On the weekend, everyone went home except her.”

“Why didn't she?”

“She didn't seem to have any family. She never mentioned them.”

“Did she tutor you even when you went to high school?”

“That's right. Without her help, I wouldn't be attending Peking University.”

Finally, they reached a large field where a scraggly flock of chickens scratched in the weeds, while a variety of small birds hopped on the basketball playground nearby. A one-storey building came into view.

Nina followed Yueming into the building. “Here's Teacher Gao's room,” she said, knocking on the flimsy wood door. A short-haired woman of about thirty opened it and greeted them warmly. “Come on in, Yueming,” Gao said. Her eyes, huge under thick glasses, fixated on Nina.

“This is my new friend, Nina. She wants to see you.”

“See me?” Gao asked, a puzzled look on her face.

“You trained Yueming to be an English major,” Nina said, her eyes sweeping past the woman and taking in the scant furnishings. Nina felt like she was witnessing her own past. Nina's heart opened. “Years ago, I was one of the sent-down youths. However, I was able to move to the United States and I have since graduated from an American university. I'm researching the experiences of my generation for a book I intend to write.”

“How?” Gao's eyes were wide open. “How did you get to America?”

“My uncle's there. I went to stay with his family.” Nina did not want to scare Gao. Sneaking across the border was considered a political crime, so she had to be cautious. If anyone from Public Security were to find out, Nina would be jailed.

“My father also graduated from an American university,” Gao said. Her oval face beamed but clouded soon. She gestured for Nina and Yueming to sit on the edge of her bed. Then she boiled water in a pot. The smell of kerosene from the small metal stove spread in the air.

“Where's your father now?” asked Nina.

“As a labelled ‘rightist,' my father was sent to a faraway forced-labour camp at Jiabiangou Valley in Gansu Province. My mother divorced him in order to protect me from political discrimination. When the Cultural Revolution started, I was a freshman student in the English Department of Beijing Normal University. Soon, my mother was denounced as a ‘stinking bourgeoisie.' Shortly afterward, she killed herself,” Gao said, her voice quivering. She bent to lift the boiling pot, filled it with tea leaves, and then poured the tea into mugs. She continued to talk about how she was dispatched to the countryside that same year to receive re-education from the peasants. Years later, the school needed teachers badly because they couldn't find any, so she was recruited, but only on a temporary basis due to her tarnished family background. Gao explained that nobody wanted to be a teacher in those years, as they were labelled “Stinking Number Nines.” And, in any case, because the universities had been closed for several years, no students had graduated from normal schools or universities, so when schools reopened, they were forced to recruit high school graduates to be teachers.